This was supposed to be a quick job lol. Broke my line. Needed a double flare kit. Needed a line. Didn’t have the spring tools so struggled a little with a screw driver and vice grips. Corrosion was super bad from fluid leak and age (90s truck) so I took a while to clean it well. All and all it took me a full day lol
Awesome video and thank you. I have the 97 3500. I just changed the the drum brakes, wheel cylinder and the brake light on my dash wont shut off.. any tips or tricks much appreciated
@@DrShock yes it was pretty low, I topped it off. I did bleed the brakes... Driver side rear had a lot of air, felt like I was there awhile... finally it came through but maybe it wasn't enough.?? I can always do it again. Thanks for the response
The most likely reasons for that lamp being on are going to be brake fluid related (pressure/level) or parking brake related. If the bleed out doesn't clear it, I'd check to see if you have the parking brake still working correctly after the shoe change. Remember to account for front disc pad wear when topping off the master cylinder, you wouldn't want it to over flow down the road when new pads get put on.
@@DrShock No luck might have to take it in. I bled all them them, got some more air out of the one line. Took a look of the E cable adjusted the one cause it was not engaging the shoe. Other side seem to work fine. Brake better then ever and emergency brake actually hold and releases fine. Any other ideas? Haha or just take it in.
Also the cap of the reservoir doesn't always seem seal shut all the way around, like it doesn't have a good seal Or is this normal? The boot is on and around the cap but if I press on the cap I hear air coming out is this weird.
For this video, I think you mean the _shoes_ here as this vid is about drum brakes. If the shoes were scored, burnt, cracked, or damaged from the wheel cylinder failure then no you would need to replace them for safety reasons.
Normally I tend to recommend only fixing what's broken, but with these kind of parts you can get into uneven braking situations so I do replace them in pairs.
Great video for those of us who just needed to replace the wheel cylinder, absolutely garbage for those of us trying to rebuild the entire brake drum and springs
Then why not look at a video that's specifically about replacing the shoes and springs - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d-a0pASZZWM.html
No, couldn't be that as they are not side specific as I mentioned. For that symptom you may have a problem with the bleeder screw (if these are over tightened they can crush the little orifice) or there could be a restriction within the line itself.
If the lines are not rusted and leaking, you could just try flushing them (after disconnecting both ends of a section) to save some $. But in my experience when I can't bleed at all in the rear, it's usually a bleeder screw problem - you might try overly unscrewing the bleeder screw to confirm you are getting brake fluid blowback at the threads even if the bleed orifice itself is obstructed. If this doesn't work, and you see a fluid squirt while the line is fully disconnected, then I'd have to suspect the wheel cylinder itself.
im pretty sure its the same concept but my trucks inside of the brakes looks nothing like the one in here mines a 97 c1500 5.0 305 2wd Extended crew cab and mine looks nothing like this one as in how the springs work and where they are and the 2 metal pieces are non exsistant and my shoes touch the wheel cylinder to act like the metal pieces he reused in this video Im bout to wing this shit lol take pics and try and rememeber if i fuck sum up i got a mechanic that will help me but he told me i could do it by myself and he understood why i wanted him to do it so its right quick and safely done but im bout to dive in this shit and its my first time ever doing this job
The spring layout will differ from the 1500 and the 2500/3500 truck shown in the video. Everything including the shoes will be smaller as well on the 1/2 ton trucks. But the wheel cylinder removal and mounting will be the same steps.
You only have to pop off the upper shoe springs from the anchor pin so you can get tension off the wheel cylinder like I show at 6:05. This is to have the necessary room to work the two cylinder links (parts that actually pushes the shoes) out of the old cylinder boot ends.
I'm not sure the adjuster alone will give you the proper clearance at the anchor pin area as the springs have the tension there not the adjuster. But if you have a safety concern with the springs then sure you could try to improvise. The objective affected is getting the pins removed from the boot ends so you can replace the wheel cylinder. You could attempt this with the springs in place, it will just be harder as you will be working to pull the shoes away by hand against their force. Be watchful not to bend or damage the brake shoe hold down spring/cup/pin assembly lower down on each side of the shoe in doing so. Don't forget the safety glasses.
@@Zach-ju5vi Until you bleed the brakes the wheel cylinder is empty and has no pressure. idk if that's what you're referring to, but the plungers will tighten up against the shoes after bleeding and the shoe to drum space is properly adjusted.
When I've run into that I've first backed off the shoe adjuster so that all you're fighting is the wear ridge or rust lip (almost always what the problem is) along the inside diameter. You can remove one of the inspection plugs on the backing plate to verify that you've got the shoes backed off enough. Sometimes you're dealing with corrosion from the drums inside mounting area to the axle hub flange, for that I'll get a 3lb brass hammer (soas not to damage the drum) and work it around the outside perimeter to shock the corrosion loose. I'll then work it at an angle striking the drum from behind (avoid hitting the backing plate). These two are the usual ones you may encounter.
@@DrShock thanks for answer. With the help of your videos I've gone ahead and installed new wheel cylinders, shoes and drums. I still have the some issues with the driver side. 1) The drum get's hot after 20 minutes. I can back the adjuster off some more but at that point the drum just slides on without resistance 2) The truck makes a loud metal on metal smack when I touch the brakes. It seems like the drum is out of round causing the shoes to be shifted while driving and when I apply the brakes it sounds like the shoes are smacking the drum. It only happens once the truck is moving over 10/15 mph nothing at idle or low speeds 3) The car shakes/wobbles when braking similar to a warped rotor but much more pronounced. At this point I have to believe either the axle shaft is bent or the drum is out of round causing the brakes to touch the "low" spot when driving - in result causing the heat being generated and the funky sensation when braking.
@@diyspeed Well in a situation like this you have to compare previous behavior. If you had an axle problem you would have had symptoms before you rebuilt the brakes. I'm going to presume you didn't have this behavior before the brake job. So I've ran into problems where some aftermarket shoes are not compatible with OEM drums, resulting in loud noises or excessive friction/grabbing but nothing as serious as you describe. I'd suspect a drum that needs to be turned as you suggest and have a shop take a look at that. In the meantime I'd double check that the springs are all installed, and all in the correct locations. And that the wheel cylinder link/rod is in the right spot on both sides against the shoes.
The regular production option (RPO) code sticker in the glove box would be where I would look. The parts counter and most websites will ask for the "J" codes when you order your parts. Typically the brake RPOs started with JD or JB for trucks durng these years.
Drum size is usually stamped/cast right into the drum on GMs. Just pull off one of the rear wheels and you can read it. If it's rusted off, or an aftermarket drum without the size on it you can use a tape measure. You can also use the options sticker in the glove box. The option codes starting with "JB" and "JD" are for the rear brakes and is usually enough when ordering new shoes or drums. Note that this video is about 13" drums though.
