I have to say this is hands down the best video on how to perform this handle replacement NO MUSIC👍 and step by step instructions very accurate and helpful very well done video and instruction definitely know what your doing👌
This video REALLY helped me with this same issue today with a 93 GMC Yukon. I was struggling with it and Thank God I found your video. Thank you for all your details and pointers!!!
I'd also like to add, the whole reason I was dealing with this issue was because the "body shop" that painted my truck didn't do this right. So Good Job to you, and thanks again!
I did this for a customer today and didn't have to completely remove the metal backing or disconnect any rails. Simply remove panel, insert 10mm socket with extension thru the metal shield to remove rear bolt then, from outside of side door is another 10mm bolt. Remove exterior side bolt then carefully wiggle the door handle out by inserting key in the cylinder and turning to the right to be able to remove the door handle in one piece. Then change out connections from old to new, then repeat all backwards. 10-15 minutes top
your the man. best youtube automotive tutorials available anywhere! just a fact. thank you for your help. my handle is frozen after install so i believe maybe my rod got bent at some point and maybe a slight twist as the handle and lock are spanking. should have bought the rod while i was buying.
THANK YOU!!!!!! seriously, I've been studying this video for a week now got the parts and put these instructions to play and BAM!!!! It's works again no more jumping over seats again thank you my friend.
Test fit the lock, before you reinstall, make sure it locks in place. Did my drivers side three times, only to have the lock push into the door . But a little filling and you should be good to go..
I've watched a few other videos on replacing outside door handles and locks as have this job to do on one of my trucks. Hands down this is the best one I've seen. You covered it all and did the job right. It's not how quickly you can get it done or tricks for not having to the job right. You're video is the best thank you. Keep making diy videos great video. Thanks again.
I've been putting off doing this on my 98 Suburban Diesel for years and just being really careful with it. Now that I've seen you video with good instructions I think I'm ready to tackle this project.
Revisiting this one Doc.. Watched it when first posted to fix my '97 Suburban. Fast forward to today and I'll be tackling the one on my '99 Suburban tomorrow. Thanks for the great videos as always. Best videos out there!
I have three handles to replace. One on my 98 Tahoe and two on my 96 Silverado. I am not looking forward to this, at all. But I will be able to replace my speakers at the same time. That's a good thing. Thanks for the video.
What a great video! Really good attention to detail and helped me a lot replacing a handle on my 96 chevy c2500 over here in UK. 20 mins to remove door panels, unplug harnesses, remove window from tracks etc, then took a couple of hours to detach and reattach rods, but got there in the end 😆
Bare foot tribe for life! Great video! And great channel, really nice c1500 videos for my 96 Silverado! 375k miles all original 4.3L and 4l60e and still going strong!
Thanks for this video, I have the exact same issue and this was very helpful in the repair process. One tip for you. You can remove the Window/door lock/speaker assembly form the inner trim panel before you pop it off the door. It is a lot easier to deal with the wiring connectors that way. If you watch at 4:34 you nearly put one of those retainer posts through your speaker while fiddling with those wires.
Thanks, I mention about this risk in the video. But I've found it easier to either remove the white nylon post(s) or just leave it be as you saw me do. These trucks are getting old now, its far too easy for the aged plastic for the power lock/speaker wiring connectors or mount points to break off. Just be careful for sure as those speakers are discontinued now!
Thank you for the detailed process on the door rods. I'm missing the cylinder lock clip on my passenger door. Several other videos I watched skipped this part. Like my father says, "The time it takes, is the time it takes" thank you. After a $3 dorman clip @ Zone and watching this video, I'm able to use my passenger lock cylinder again. I don't have a remote fob either. Thanks
Thanks, alot of times I do more disassembly than is required in order to get the camera access to show all the little details for just the reason you encountered. ;-)
Nice job/video. I’ll be changing out all the handle, latch, and latch bolt this weekend. Thanks for the information. I just hope mine goes as good as yours did. 👍🏻😁
Hello. I am replacing my door handle today and appreciate the video. For sure. Thank you. I don't know if you know this or not but Amazon sells metal door handles instead of plastic ones. They seem to have good reviews and seem well built. And I used to have a 90's Chevy with the same or similar handles, and the broke alot. Just thought I'd let you know in case you guys wanted to try it
Great video, unfortunately for me I replaced mine the day before I saw this. I did not think of removing the latch bolts and struggled for a long time with the rods, eventually got it installed .would have helped me immensely to have seen your video before.
Thank you #DrShock, took everything apart as discribed in video and everything was going well until it was time to install the new door handle. Putting those rods back in was a tussle. I Never did this before. Me and my son Where doing this, It was a mind Bender Only because of those 2 rods Keyhole and door handle. Finally after Both rods were put back into their slots And testing that everything worked, we were able to reassemble the door panel everything worked great Thank You so much for your informational video...keep on teaching!
Thanks Doc your video was very helpful to me I never changed one of these before it is quite the workout though but after watching your video you pointed out a lot of very important tips thank you so much Buddy Joe
Thanks for this very descriptive video ! Does it always seem to be that exterior (exposed to the elements) inner oblong ring of plastic molding that fails in these door handles ? Plastic moldings that subsequently gets worse till it pulls right out with only likely the linkage(s) holding it in place.
I have a nice condition 98 GMC Sierra, passenger door hinges are shot... Any videos of replacing the entire hinge assy? The part where the hinge rods go into is oval shaped/worn, allowing the door to drop 8 mm or so when opened)
Dr.Shock I have been needing to do mine as well for a while. I tried every way for 2 days without taking the window loose. I see I'm not the only one having to use a 2x4 to hold up the window. By the way how long did cut the 2x4? I forgot I'm doing one for another vet. I mentioned I had done mine so.... now I get to do another one.
I didn't cut the board specific for this, I just keep a scrap pile for such uses and found one that would get me the needed clearance safely. My tools range from specialized ones costing several hundred dollars each, to basic scrap wood and metal pieces ;-)
I found if you have the glass separate from the regulator wheels just rotate the glass to the front of the truck and lift it out and set it aside. You can leave the lock in the door by tilting the old Handel and put a small screw driver in the bottom and pull the handle out. You won't have to touch the lock rod
You have to lower the window to disengage the track like I showed, otherwise you won't have the access you need. And then you can prop it up out of the way with a piece of lumber or such.
Wonder how big a bonus the engineer gets for coming up with this Rube Goldberg crap,wondered the same thing when trying to change the roter and cap on my 96 chevy pickup today.Good video by the way still haven't got mine back together(driverside door handle).
1 Question….. Do you have to remove the window track to replace the door latch part that the door handle rod goes into? I’m replacing both the handle and the door latch parts. Thanks for any help you have.
It's been a few years since doing one of these, but as best I recall you can get the latch itself out without removing the track. Tight fit to get in there though.
Awesome video! Do you have a video pertaining to the power mirrors on a 98 Chevrolet Silverado. My mirrors do not move when I use the up/down left/right switch on the drivers side door panel. I noticed there is a relay in back of the glove compartment but dont know if it would be that. Thank you in advance!
I don't have a video on that, though I did have a mirror switch go out on me some years back. Relay would be for heated mirror feature, if you had it. Each power mirror has two motors (up/down and left/right) so kinda rare for all four to go at once so I'd suspect the switch or its harness. Check for power at the switch connector harness with a test lamp from orange pin to black pin first. If you have power, I'd strongly suspect the switch itself personally.
Thanks. I recently added support to these older videos I had for the new chapters feature. Hopefully gets more subscribers ;-) Ads is probably just January as there's few advertisers after the December holidays spending. Certainly ad monetization is important to the channel in order to make it worthwhile to take the time to record these repair videos.
Chevy c3500 in the UK needs help. My outside driver door lock and door handle have stopped working today, looking at this I'm thinking the rods have come out? The lock just spins and the handle has no tension, do you know if its a common fault? if so, am I likely to need any new parts or is it a case of popping some rods back Into place. Difficult to tell without looking I guess, But hoping some1 knoes exactly what I'm talking about🤔
Hi, no not common for those metal rods to become disengaged as they are secured pretty well (you have to fight to disconnect them from the retaining clips usually). The outside handle has a spring built in that provides some tension like you see around 10:41 so I'm going to presume you didn't mean zero tension as if so that's definitely a sign that the handle that's broke. Honestly, you won't know why without opening it up. Definitely haven't heard of both the handle and lock going out at the same time though.
@@DrShock Yh thanks for getting back to me. I went out and had another look the lock my be fine, But yh the handle isn't pulling on anything at all, It's a new purchase, running like a dream and mechanically great but man I'm stumbling across some little gems of chevy problems, The door pins need replacing, so the door was sagging. Went out today and shoulder bumped the door shut and think if bugered something, I'm gonna have to take the door card of and have a look. Thanks again bud
Really depends on what those repairs are, and whether you can address them yourself to remove the labor costs. What would put a 1995 in the salvage yard imo, is not the parts cost but the labor. A general rule is when the repair costs in any given year exceed 1/2 the resale value, you scrap the vehicle. Of course, that rule isn't used when there is sentimental value with the vehicle. And that latter situation is why we still see so many Chevys from the 1950s and 60s still drivable today. ;-)
Thanks. OEM parts will always have better fitment, and be of higher quality. But they will also cost more, in some cases significantly more. But that old adage _you get what you pay for_ applies to automotive parts more than anything else imo. Don't pay GM dealership prices, find genuine GM parts on eBay using the links in the description.
@@DrShock thanks for your reply. I purchased one from Napa, I’ll let you know how it fits. The GM one is now $67, Napa was $32. The old 97 Suburban has 230k on it, first time this has happened, It is garaged which may help.
Update. The Napa Dorman door handle went in fine. It is plastic, the GM one originally was metal. Dr. shock you had the best and most detailed video on this job. Thanks for the great inside door shots. It made the job go so much smoother. I cannot see how other people that made videos on this subject change this handle without removing the inner panel for clip access.
Would you happen to know where I can find/buy the clip that holds the rod to the handle? This is missing on mine and is the only part I need to replace. I’d much rather do that than buy a whole new handle.
If both handles are broken, your best bet imo is thru the outside as you would have to cut a hole thru the inner door trim otherwise (inside door trim panel is easily replaceable from a salvage yard donor though). If you can get to the actuating rod with some long nose vice grips, you can pull it up manually to open the door.
My door won’t lock from the inside or the outside with a key. It’ opens and everything fine. But I keep stuff inside my truck and need it locked. Can you help me? What could be problem
You would have to remove the interior trim panel to diagnose this. It could be that the actuator rod has come off the lock cylinder, or that the lock cylinder needs to be replaced. Impossible to say from just this info.
You took the inside panel off when the panel has a while for the bolt all you need is a swivel with a magnet so it dont drop down. No need to pull that panel off right?
I've done more disassembly than minimum in order to film the procedure with greater clarity, particular to show where the rods connect internally. I also try to stay similar to the level of disassembly in the GM service manual. The dealer would have taken more apart to avoid scratching any paint, for example. You certainly may find you don't need to do all of those steps. It is possible to do without removing the glass from the track, for example.
If you have a tool to get to the inside 10mm bolt, then it's still possible (though requires alot more patience with the rod connections) to get the assembly out and back in thru the outside door opening.
To get the power window motor track arms out of the way for the most clearance for filming this. So down, disengage track rollers, and then manually raise glass. Most clearance.
This is the third time I've had to do this and this time I'm going to put a washer inside the door at the area where the 10mm bolt is on the edge of the door where the lock is, I think the bolt puts to much stress on the handle then it cracks Just a thought, might epoxy to the door or On the back of the handle
This is one of the most tiresome and frustrating jobs for the GMT400. Spend 10 bucks and get a bag of fifty new inner door panel sockets and posts. The plastic posts get lost, break, or are simply missing when you remove the inner panel. Ok, now get ready to be frustrated. Take the inner door panel off. Make sure the window is up. Apply blue painters tape around the exterior handle to protect the paint. Remove all three of the torx bolts off the door latch (side that latches to the jam) and guide it down. This will give the handle some play so you can accomplish the job. The exterior handle has two bolts, one on each end of the handle. The one that points to the rear of the car is easily accessed where the door meets the jam. The other one is inside the door at the forward end of the handle. You can access this through a little peep hole that's covered with plastic on the inside door surface. Size the bolt by matching a socket to the bolt on the jam. Then use an extension to remove the bolt inside the door. If you drop it, use the access ports/vents at the bottom of the door and a magnet to retreive it. Note: When you later replace these bolts, use some painter's tape on the socket and replace the inside bolt first, but don't tighten it. Then start the bolt at the jam. Then tighten the inside one first. I only mention this because the bolts are tiny and it's very difficult to line them up with the handle. Grrrr... Remove the lock cylinder by pushing the retaining clip on the bottom with a flat head and push it out with your finger. The clips that hold the rod that spans from the handle latch bar to the latch on the side of the door are difficult to remove, but take your time and don't damage it. The rod attached to the door handle bar might come out at the bottom. It's merely seated in the top of the latch mechanism you unbolted with the three torx bolts. If it does come out, reinsert it so the hook POINTS TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE CAR. If the hook of this bar points forward towards the dash, the whole sheebang won't reassemble or operate properly. To reassemble the handle, push the lock out of the way and angle the handle out at bottom and level so the latch bar enters the space available. You'll see it won't fit in any other way. Clip in the rod (facing to the rear of the car). Do not let the lock bother you, you can hook it with a tool and bring it back up. Because it's also attached to the latch at the jam, you can move the latch back and forth to position the lock, because you don't have a lot of room to manipulate it. The lock needs to be rotated to orient the clip downward, then it needs to be pushed into the cylinder cavity until it clicks into place. The first time I used my little fingers together to do so. The second time I just hooked the keyhole with a dental pick, rotated the cylinder with my fingers, and pulled until i heard it click into place. Treat yourself to a beer, you deserve it.
You do not need to do anything with the rods except on the handle end. You also don’t have to take the sheet metal panel all the way off or do anything with the window… You leave all that intact and the window up. You can take the two 10mm bolts out of the handle and pull the handle out to disconnect the handle rod and lock. Install new handle and connect rod, then reach in through door and push lock cylinder into new handle. Put 10mm bolts back in and your done.
