Thank you for comments! Being a '95, at the time I needed one more tailpipe inspection before I hit the magic 25 year old mark where it would only need a "safety" inspection in the future. While the numbers were not quite as clean as the original V6, it was clean enough to pass all tests with NO emissions at all. Check out the '91 project OBS I'm working on now. Hopefully, it is/will be just as clean. I wanted to show you can build a fun truck without spending a fortune.
Could you make a list what I would need to swap my 5.7 Vortec with a 5.3? I can use the 4l60e I already have, correct? So from my knowledge (still learning), I would need the 5.3 engine, harness, computer, gas pedal. What else do I need? Would my 5.7 accessories work or not? What else would I need? Thanks heaps, and like others have said, that's a very clean install, great job on that swap!
Every swap is a bit unique. That's why there is no one specific kit for our trucks. There are so many differences between the donor vehicle and the receiving vehicle. But, to try to answer a few of your questions...You did not mention what year your truck is, but yes, you can reuse your current transmission. That only takes a dished flywheel and a spacer. You only need the gas pedal (plus tac module and harness) if you are going to use a DBW setup, if you go with DBC you do not.If your donor motor has the front end accessories, I would advise using those. The p/s and alt will work fine. A/C is a different project, but can be done with a factory bracket that is modified. All depends on if you use the R4 compressor or go to a sanden style. So, in short, it would be easier to make the LS front drive accessories work than your OBS ones. Exhaust...you can go with full length or shorty headers, if on a tight budget, you can modify a pair of truck manifolds to fit (that is what I usually do, it is not difficult). Cooling, you can go with the original LS truck fan or go to electric fans. Your 5.7 radiator will work. Need a fuel pump capable of meeting the LS needs. Again, all depends on if the motor you are using is stock or modified. A good pair of motor mounts, I use ones from Metaltek Manufacturing. Wiring harness there are several alternatives: Buy a new one, have your LS harness modified, modify your own harness, go to carb. All have + and -. Get a GM electrical manual for your truck. Research and watch more videos to educate yourself on what others have done and decide what you do and don't like. Then, have fun!
Use this description on Ebay to the fan pigtails and fans I used: GM LS1 FBody Corvette Dual Cooling Fan Harness + Pigtail Camaro LSX LT1 TPI Fans and this one: Radiator Cooling Fan For 98-2002 Chevrolet Camaro Pontiac Firebird currently the fans can be had for $108.09 and harness for $36. Good luck!
So happy I just found your channel. I'm 61 and getting ready to retire in a couple of months. My grandson and I are starting our first OBS LS swap into his 1996. Your page is going to be a great resource for our project. Thanks, and you got a new sub.
Thank you for the kind words, and enjoy the time and memories you get to enjoy with your grandson. I've got a lot of projects in the works, stay tuned!
Afternoon Andy, what wire did you use to connect to your cruise control for it to operate. The wire off of the computer or straight from the VSS? Wonderful job on all your trucks. Thanks.
On the blue '95 truck, (DBC) the original cruise control unit is the same as the 1999-2001 or so truck unit that is DBC. Only real difference is the length of the cable from the unit to the throttle body. So, simply swapping the 2001 unit bolted in place and the newer cable is the correct length to fit to the throttle body. The factory electrical connection plugs right into the newer cc unit. That's it. On the white '91, it is now BDW. This can be adapted to the original wiring. Check lt1swap.com for details on connecting that up. It's not hard to do. The factory switch can be made to continue to work.
@@laurencevillegarage morning, I also did the same thing, used the unit from the 2000 Silverado in place of my 88's unit. It didn't work and I believe it was associated with the speedometer. I installed the speed wire off of the PCM and it still isn't working. I'll have to start tracing the wiring to solve this issue. Thank you for replying and have a wonderful day.
I really like the looks and it was an easy install. However, I can't say that the stopping power it has is any better than before. Maybe a big brake kit would really make a difference, but I have to say, for the $ it does not stop significantly better to support the expense and work. Just my experience with it. Hope that helps.
I noticed on your ac fan video that you’re engine didn’t bog much when the compressor engaged. Did you find a way to have the engine idle up when the computer see’s the clutch engage? Wanting to put ac on my 95 with a 2003 lq4. Any help would be appreciated!
When you have your harness modified and pcm tweaked, that is the time to tell whoever you choose to do the work you plan to run a/c and they can make the needed changes. Also, it should be set up so the a/c cuts off under WOT. Otherwise, when you add a/c you may experience some small issues that could/can be fixed through pcm tweaks.
Yes, the control arms will do what you need and keep your stock springs for a great ride. There are other ways to get a 2” drop, but I have found the control arms to be the best balance of ride, ease of installation and cost. I “cheaper” out and put drop springs on my ‘91…I plan to replace the springs soon with lower control arms. There is a noticeable difference in ride quality. Spindles are another good choice for a 2” drop…for me it depends also on what size wheel you go with. A stock (or aftermarket” 15” wheel) will have contact with stock lower control arms with spindles. I prefer not to modify the stock lowers.
Great question! I used an LS3 takeoff pan. Great fit for a lowered truck. The dipstick tube is from the truck 5.3. Had to use that because it worked with the Tahoe exhaust manifolds. The LS3 tube will not work with those manifolds. But, you can't use the LS3 dipstick (alone) because it will be too short because of the additional length of the Tahoe tube vs the LS3 tube. Because the tubes both mount in the same position on the block, lay the dipsticks side by side. You want the truck dipstick to extend past the end of the tube the same distance as the LS3. The upper end of the dipstick tube is straight. In this area I cut my truck dipstick and overlapped it to achieve the correct length. Then I just spot welded each end to get my correct length. I welded it in that straight area so that each time the dipstick is advanced or removed, the welded area would not be bending. Works great.
When using “drive by cable” throttle body, the only difference between the OBS and NBS cruise is the length of the cable used. So, find a 2000+ cruise control unit from a DBC truck and bolt it on. Fits using stock mounting points. Super easy.
I assume you are referring to the emblems on the cab. While I have seen the Cheyenne emblems available in several variations with a single gold or red stripe and double gold stripe, the ones on this truck are the factory original emblems. Paint is original as well.
O ok i just google the specs I don’t know why my oil pan seats too low maybe dirty dingos motor brackets because that oil pan in my truck would pass the crossmember
Are you using a stock truck oil pan or are are you referring to the LS3 pan? The LS3 is several inches more shallow in the rear than a truck pan. My mounts allowed the pan to clear just fine, it was my headers that were just too close in several places for me to use them. Went with stock Tahoe manifolds that I modified. However, if my mounts were a bit taller, I may not have had to modify those manifolds. Next swap I am using a different lower mount that is more "stable" with less movement.
No. The Tahoe Y pipe and the '95 Y pipe are different widths. I thought about cutting and splicing to make it work, but, in the end it was easier to start from scratch than to try to make the truck pipes work. Had to modify the outlet of the Tahoe manifolds to tuck in more (not hard to do, they cut and weld pretty easy). I used the Tahoe down pipe just past the O2 sensor bung. From there I bought a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust kit from speedway automotive. I think it was about $135. I made my own Y pipe moving to a "X" pipe then to the muffler.
So what did/ did not do to get the factory gauges to work? I'm torn between getting a Dakota Digital but if it can be done without going that route I'd rather save that money to put elsewhere in the project.
While I like the Dakota gauges, they are out of my budget range. I managed to get all my factory gauges to work. The fuel and battery are tied in with the body harness/grounds. The tach has its own signal connected to the tach wire coming off your existing truck coil, temp has a wire under hood to connect to (you can use 2 wire or 3 wire coolant sensor. my truck had both pres sensor switch for info to pcm and a separate sensor for gauge. You can use an adapter to use the sensor for the gauge and screw it into an unused threaded plug on driver side head then use regular 2 wire sensor to communicate to pcm. OR don't use old sensor to gauge and use Camaro 3 wire sensor and use 2 to pcm and third to gauge , oil pressure is separate, MIL light (brown wire I believe) is tied to LS pcm and my abs is still hooked up. For an automatic, you have to splice the four wires together that go to the prnd connection on the lower part of the transmission module mounted on the driver side of the trans. The speedo connection is also spliced in the trans tailshaft.
Great build nice truck I've got a question does the cruise control work off the transmission computer or the engine computer or both I'm doing a 6.0 ls swap in a 1993 and I want my cruise to work
Thank you, the cruise control is in the main chassis harness. I replaced the CC unit with one from a 2001 Tahoe/Suburban. It looked exactly like my '95 except the cable was longer. The difference in length comes from the added distance from the original engines throttle body location vs the new engines forward placement of the throttle body. It bolted right in place of the older unit and attachment was easy. The wiring plug fit like it was made for it. Having said that, if your engine is a DBW, the pcm will control the cruise. I would definitely suggest checking out my latest video about the free wiring schematics on Autozones website and or getting a GM wiring/electrical diagram manual to make sure the wiring is exact. Find schematics for both your truck and the vehicle your 6.0 came out of to get real specific. Depending on your specifics, a wire or two may require modification to work.
Good question! You will need to use the donor vehicle throttle cable. It is the correct length. It only requires opening up the existing hole just a tad and it will fit perfectly.
I did my cam a little over a year ago, so it is going to be the original or "older" version. From speaking with a rep at BTR, the lift and duration are the same, the v2 has a different LSA. It would have more noticeable "noise" and the "older" version a bit quieter. A small difference in power. Good question, thanks for asking.
The belt was a Gates K061080, by its number, it is supposed to be 108 3/4". You will have to play around a bit with the actual belt you need. Depends on how you mount your a/c, also assumes using truck front accessories. The tensioner pulley needs to take up the slack for a snug fit. I had to tweak the upright support bracket slightly to make the fit correct. Otherwise, you will end up with a small collection of belts trying to get the exact one to fit just right. Also, stay with one brand of belt. It's like a pair of jeans, same size in different brands will be a bit different. So, what ever brand you start with, stay with.
No, Ieft it intact and in place. I only cut the required wires to make everything work properly and left everything else in its place. Unless you are gutting the truck and doing a real "show piece", I wouldn't remove too much. Other systems need that pcm. To look at it, you cannot tell what I did. There can be a lot of reasons why your truck won't start or has a few "teething" issues after a swap. If you cut and remove wires prior to making everything work it will make it much harder to trace the issue. ALSO, remember, when doing a swap like this, you are creating a "bastard". Now, that's not a bad thing, but someday you or another owner is going to have to make a repair and the "regular" mechanic is not going to know what you did or how you did it. It can get very expensive for others to trace down and figure out what you did. Keep it simple, don't make it more complicated than it has to be. As an example, go to any car show. Look at the high dollar stuff. When it has a problem who is going to know how to fix it? Going to a special hot rod shop is going to be at least $100 an hour. electrical probably more. Keep notes as to what/how you did things so you or the next owner can more easily fix your issue. That is also a selling point in the future. Nobody writes this stuff down. Buying a swapped vehicle can be a blessing or a curse.
2020 was a crummy year...Got covid back in the summer and was on a vent for a week. after I finally got well, I moved my dad out of an assisted living facility (which really sucked) in with me. Soooo, the past 7+ months I have not gotten much done truck wise. As for your question, I mainly do my own projects then maybe sell and go on to the next. A lot less pressure that way. I am slowly gathering the parts to do a '91 shortbed. I'll post up stuff when I can. Thanks
While it is a "newer" style, mine varied little from the '95's unit. It plugged right in and worked like factory. There were small changes made each year to these trucks which is why I always recommend to purchase a GM factory electrical service manual for the truck you are working on. They are worth every penny. I have several for different years. If your swap is with a DBW engine, you don't have to worry, because the pcm handles the cruise feature. You would need to have all the correct parts for the swap, which is why I always recommend using a donor vehicle so I can get every piece I need to make everything work. Thanks for your question.
Also, I forgot to mention, the only difference in the early NBS CC module (that I have found) and OBS is the different length of cable to attach to the throttle body. In my case, the electrical plug to the CC module was the same. Small changes in that wiring may be needed in a different year model, hence my suggestion for a factory electrical manual.
Yes, I did use the stock Tahoe manifolds and yes, I did have to "massage" them to fit. On the driver side, the flange made contact with the truck frame about where one of the bolts is. I cut that off as well as the flange to reposition the angle to fit. Not hard to do, but was able to do it with a 4.5" angle grinder then weld it at the angle I needed. Had to do the passenger side as well. Took me a couple hours to do both sides, climbing under the truck ~50 times...lol
@@laurencevillegarage Thanks man I appreciate the honest answer. Most ppl just day. FIT PERFECT. but thanks again. I appreciate all the help and videos!
E fans work well when they are working, but when they burn up and give up on you in the middle of nowhere or in traffic your screwed, it's better to have both, clutch fan for reliability and E fan for better cold A/C
There are certainly advantages and disadvantages of both. My Jeep has both. I do enjoy the cleaner appearance, quieter sound and appearance of the electric fans. Now that you mentioned it, I do have a clutch/fan in the garage, I may put it behind the seat "just in case", thanks for mentioning it.
@@laurencevillegarageI suggest you put it on the passenger seat with the seat belt on, it could be your best friend when or if the E fans fail... that's the advantage of having a motor design for clutch fan you can always put the fan back on like a spare tire 👍
I'm going to Ls swap my k1500 down the road, im initially planning to supercharge it. Now my truck is a 5.7 should I just go with the 6.0? Over the 5.3? Whats a better choice?
That's a great question. First, what do you want the truck to do? Is it going to be a weekend toy or daily transportation? What is your budget and what is available to you? In my area, the 6.0 is very popular and so the price reflects it. I can buy a complete running/driving damaged Tahoe for half of a similar truck with a 6.0. For me, a running/driving donor is the most cost effective solution because I know it runs and can assess everything before starting a swap. Then, after I get all the parts I want, I part out the rest and get as much of my $ back as possible. For the eng/trans/wiring harness/computer/and countless small parts I have about $135 in it. If I have held out a week or two longer on the donor, I would have had extra cash + free stuff. Both are excellent engines. Parts are about the same. So, all things being equal, the engine will probably cost more, 4L80e will probably cost more, gas mileage will be less....If you can absorb that difference go for 6.0. You mentioned supercharging, so I will assume this would be more of a toy than a daily driver (I may be wrong). So if you have time, some extra funds then go all out. If its a daily I would go 5.3. Good luck!
Thanks, i love my truck and plan to keep my k1500 z71 , I want it for a weekend type of thing and use it for errands, I just wasn't so sure if supercharging a 5.3 was worth it but ill go with the 6.0 I plan to keep it for life so I'll do it right and it's an extended cab I think the 6.0 will do since I'm going with a 6 inch lift also on 35x12.50 tires. Im going to add bars, lights, defense bumper etc im not going to do insane off roading. Outdoor activities.
Please can you tell me tha number part that you youse in yout truck and brand please! 🙏looking for one because where i live theres alot off bumps and my truck its very lower too the ground
Yes, I had it dyno'd. The tuner pulled an extra 14 hp out it and fine tuned some other areas. If I had not put the cam in it, I probably would have just lived with the base tune. But after spending the time and $ for the cam, I figured might as well do it right and get out of it what I can.
@@laurencevillegarage thank you. I have a 90 GMC Sierra that I’m gonna ls swap and the original cluster needs to go , but I don’t wanna spend a lot of money for a Dakota digital dash
I just purchased a 133kmi 5.3 LS eng. from a 2001 Suburban Lt for my 95 Chevy with the 4.3 NV 3500 5 speed trans. I'm ready to get started, And if I heard you correctly use the V6 motor mounts everyone else says you have to get to 350 motor mounts to make it work with the aftermarket brackets!
You cannot use the v6 mounts, you will need v8 mounts. Lot's of sources for these. The v6 mounts are very different from the v8 mounts. They would position the v8 a couple inches farther back if they could be used. I used Metaltek mounts: metaltek-manufacturing.myshopify.com/collections/ebay-motors-parts-accessories-car-truck-parts-engines-components-motor-mounts?page=1 I see they are currently sold out of the ones I just bought for my '91 project. The mounts on my '95 have a sliding upper similar to a dirty dingo mount with a stock clamshell lower. I won't use the clamshell again. It seems to allow the motor to sit a bit lower than I wanted and more movement allowed. Bottom line, I was not able to use the ceramic coated shoenfeld headers that are currently garage art, also $$. My '91 is going to use Tahoe manifolds.
@@jonathanguerrero5844 No, I got sick in June with the corona virus and it messed me up for a couple months. When I got home (from the hospital), I had to sell off a lot of my accumulation of parts and the donor vehicle I had, and my blue truck. I now have a '91 scsb truck in storage, but no donor at the moment. As my health improves, I am looking for a donor now. Just having a hard time finding one that is as good as the one I sold. So, I am moving forward, just a bit slower.
@@jonathanguerrero5844 Jonathan I just had knee surgery on October 5th so it'll be awhile before I get that engine cleaned out and ready to install in a 95 obs
@@laurencevillegarage I bet I would especially with the added horse power.I also have the 2/4 drop which was done by the dealer.I whish I knew what the parts were used to achieve it.
No, I had all the "flex fuel" items in pcm removed or disabled. Main advantage would be 1) larger fuel injectors than non-flex fuel 5.3, and 2) the flex fuel 5.3 are plentiful and do not present any disadvantages to the LM7.
@@jonathanguerrero5844 It all depends on if your truck is lowered or not. The stock ls truck pan will hang down below the front cross member. The pan I used is a Camaro V8 take off pan, It is literally flush with the bottom of the transmission. I got into it cheap enough so I would have no regrets. In normal driving, watching the speed bumps etc it will work ok.
That's a really simple yet broad question. What year and engine do you have? Is it drive by wire or drive by cable? How complete is the engine? What is missing from it? What about transmission? auto or manual? Trans that is in the vehicle to be swapped? What is your $ budget? Do you plan on modifying the harness or have someone else do it? The simple answer would be to get the harness that best fits your engine (year, make, model of vehicle it came from) to begin with.
Not the same truck. I spent a little over a year building this one. I purchased a damaged running driving 2004 Tahoe for its 5.3/4l60e and other parts. I just pulled the motor in it. I have not found the "new" truck that is going to be the new project.
@@laurencevillegarage - I am assuming you kept the stock rear axle? Also, with the 4L60, does the stock drive shaft fit? I'm looking to swap in a 6.0/4L80 in my '94 stepside but I want to keep 4wd.
@@4MULAzero Yes, the rear-end is the stock 3.42 10 bolt. And, yes, the stock driveshaft does fit. If the engine is put in the stock location so the trans mounts in the same spot, the driveshaft is fine. Not sure on 4wd, but I believe your stock ones will work. Can't say for a fact since I have not performed a ls swap in a 4wd. Good luck!
@@tomjoad8272 I would like to do that. Between pics and video, it takes a lot of time. But, I will definetely consider doing that. I did post up the rear disc brake conversion. I also plan a cheap budget '91 build. I have the truck, but I got sick with the covid virus and I am one of the ones it nearly killed. I was very healthy before so it goes to show when it hits, man it hits hard! Anyway, I am still pretty weak and am getting physical therapy to get my strength back. I will start posting when I am able. Thanks for the kind words and encouragement.
@@laurencevillegarage damn. I'm sorry to hear that buddy. I hate that you got it, but I'm super happy that you're on the mend. Having survived it is a testament to the importance of taking of yourself, so good for you! I jump rope 2,000 jumps a day to stay in shape. I loved your build thread on the site. Not stock, but tasteful, simple, custom look, but still useful as a truck. Where did you get your wheels from. I've had a tough time finding your wheel specs.
@@tomjoad8272 Thank you for the support, I purchased the wheels from wheelsforless.com they have really good prices and free shipping. I went to their shop to exchange a pair of wheels and met the owner and his son. Really nice people. As long as they carry what I am looking for, that is who I will support, the little guy. The specs, if you don't have them are: front 17x7, w/4" bs and rears are 17x8, w/5" bs, fits perfect if lowered.
I have a '95 C1500 ext cab and might do a swap in the future. What did you do for the transmission? Did you keep the original 4L60e? How are you controlling it?
You didn’t mention if your truck was a V6 or V8, but if you have a V8, you can use your trans. I used the 4l60e that came with the 5.3 from the donor Tahoe.
