1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Stall Fix - Super Easy - Must Try!! Its not your Crankshaft Position Sensor 

Thanks a million muchos

Some times it helps to take a mechanics pick and bend the connector pin....scraping it clean is usually the answer.

What iscpu

My 1996 jeep does turn over

There's also 2 grounds under the driver's seat.......hidden under the carpet. What a stupid place to put a ground. Pretty much have to remove the seat and roll the carpet out of the way to inspect them.

@@Thundarr995 those under seat grounds, do you have the inline 6, or the V8 ZJ? Thanks

I made a bracket out of galvanized steel to hold the plugs in my ecu 😂😂😂 haven't had to touch it in years.

Did it work for you? Having the same issue

@@gregelrod8913 sorry didn't reply.i fix it.was a electric connect to the fuel pump.thanks for the tip.

How did it turn out?

Still good?

Thank you. I was wondering why I had no check engine light at all

Fix?

@@shainetoy6153 new ecu brotha

Did it work?? Lol

How did it turn out?

Nope had to get rid of the jeep

Nope, wasn't a permanent fix but I discovered some other things. I got a new computer (ECM) and that didn't fix it. Then I discovered that once it wont start after stalling a few times when I turn the ignition off and on three times in a row quickly, it will start and run without stalling again. Strangest issue ever.

@@cnote001 how is the jeep running currently?

When you wiggle the wires, it could reset the ecm. Then you need to drive a while to collect data before the car will pass again.

Well, unfortunately that's the common issue we all share. This fix is also unfortunately temporary. Many think it's from faulty solder joints in the old ecm. So far no one has the exact fux but when we find it we will save many!! Good luck!!

Hahahaha I was just trying to rattle things around in the throttle body. Maybe the IAC was sticking. I kinda thought the same thing when I watched it back lol. Ridiculous

Hey, not to mention it actually fired up one tome when I smack that intake lol. Like I think I'm Fonzi from Happy Days lmao.

i try anything to try and get it running, lucky i dont take a hammer to it seriously

Did it work???

Did you know that alot of parts from Duralast is made in China! Even the brake drums from Autozone/Duralast is from China! Stick with the OEM/Mopar parts period, especially any electrical parts!!!

96' ZJ here. What's the verdict?

@@DiscoKnight Crankshaft sensor.

@@CrazyGpaw thank you so much. My mechanic told me they replaced it already but perhaps I should take a look at it myself.

Did you do it?

@@Tommyknoxs I did and it helped enough for me to hit eBay and get a new ECU. Can't say it's 100% fixed (still have some EVAP issues) but it's no longer stalling out.

@@timkirk3736 thank you

Start after gets cold es flyweel sensor.

@user-vx9mf4il4m the flywheel sensor is the crankshaft position sensor correct?

You're welcome! Unfortunately it wasn't a permanent fix but it will get your car going a bit farther down the road. My other video is helpful as well, just turning the ignition on and off three times will get it to start up again as well. Good luck!!

did you find it?

Ha! That's exactly what I do in the video lol

All I saw was you wiggling them. I thought oh boy that would make it worse. Anyways, glad we both figured it out. I probably didn’t need all the replacement parts but oh well, it’s done

I gor a refurbished ECM/PCM and it did the same thing. Could be that thry didn't resolder the connections....who knows. Did the solding fix the issue for you? My computer isn't the kind you can open unfortunately.

@@cnote001 If I remember right, you have a couple of screws and a couple of bend tabs to open the computer up. You'll think that you're gonna break it as it comes apart. There is some jelly adhesive in there that looks like ballistics gel. Once you take the front cover loose, you can see the contacts. You'll be able to see where the solder broke.

@@jasonbennett3033 my computer is a different version. There is no plate to take off. It's one rounded peice of metal that houses the circuit board.

@@jasonbennett3033 mine is a A Larado straight 6. Does it come apart? I am trying to do this on my own so I'm not a professional mechanic or one at all lol and being female everyone keeps telling me women can't work on cars but I've done everything I could think of I just don't know about messing with the computer and messing it up having no car what so ever. If you know anything about the Laredo before I go and take it apart if you know it can be opened up please let me know and if there if some sort of pic diagram of what needs soldered could you show me? Thank you

@@kittykittybooboo12 Hey. I have the straight 6 too. The front panel on the ECM comes off. You have 2 screws and 2 tabs that hold it on. Pull it apart carefully. There will be a sealant jelly that keeps moisture out holding it together. It looks like orange-brown ballistics gel. You can see on the back of the front cover where the solder points are. They break. I've repaired mine a couple times. Never could get it to take. Had to go to the junkyard and buy a replacement for $35. Make sure to get the ECM and the BCM at the same time. They talk to each other. Otherwise, you get all the factory alarm good times. Body Control Module is a little black box under the steering column to the left - 3x3x5?

Still good?

@@Tommyknoxs Yep, it is running fine. Thank you again for your video. In my research, I found a company on E-bay that refurbishes the CPU for 99.99 and guarantees it for life.

I never got a check engine light actually. I get a check guages light which made me think it was some kind of fuel issue. Still haven't fixed it but when it wont start and i turn the ignition on and off 3 times it always cranks up and runs without an issue for a while before stalling again.

@@cnote001 Yea, that is what mine does.. It won't start till the check gauges light comes on and the fuel pump relay chatters then kicks in and you can hear it priming the fuel rails; then it will start. It is like the car (wiring) has to warm up before I start it warm...lol ... I turn the key on and wait for the light and the fuel relay... then its good to go. I believe it is connector issues like you discovered. I suspected Mine might have something to do with the old alarm I have jumped out. (It's jumped to where it is like a key is in the door, causing some battery drain over time when I don't start it everyday or so.) I'll let ya know if I track it down. Good luck..on your end...

Get a fuel pressure gauge and check your fuel pressure

I have same problem. Any fixes?

Any update to this fix?

BAAAHAHAHAHA!!!!

Hahahaha...shit, I hope it's that simple!! Thanks!!

Got my connector at a bone yard for $2.35 plus $2 for entry Ha

Driving me nutz too!

Still good?

Hey man thanks !

Were they going past and making contact somewhere?

How did you replace the connector? Did you cut wires?

Yes. I cut 21 wires and used wire connectors. Took a while

@@cnote001did you ever fix yours after the problem came back ? I just bought one with a pcm issue

@Tommy Knoxs negative my man. Still searching. So many strange inconsistencies in the failures. I may try a Jeep mechanic near me that I've found recently.

@@cnote001 2 things 1 ) I noticed you only did the cleaning trick on one connector - did you ever try all 3? 2) have you done the whole open the pcm get to the motherboard and have someone solder the 10 connectors thing?

my center info center went down while driving. I think wiring problem. Have to pull dash and unit to check behind. Any suggestions?

No problem. Jeeps are great except for the electric. Jeep owners have to stick together.

@@jasonbennett733 yes I agree or I would have never been able to hopefully resolve my issue that someone else has gone through spent money on parts that was totally unnecessary to find out out really was a simple fix. Much appreciation Thanx again😊

There's a ground under your cup holders check it

@MikeHolt-k2s have you replaced the O2 sensors? That's what I'm gonna try next. Replacing the ECM could be the fix too due to faulty solders on the board. Good luck!

@@cnote001 thank u I think we fixed it with having to change the PCM I got this cleaner an sprayed inside the plugs an wiring to the PCM an a lot of dust an dirt came out drove around for half hr never died thanks to people on u tube for suggestions

Right on. I've changed a bunch of stuff but still a few things I still want to change like the O2 sensors, crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor.

Well it wasn't a permanent fix but I discovered some other things. I got a new computer (ECM) and that didn't fix it. Then I discovered that once it wont start after stalling a few times when I turn the ignition off and on three times in a row quickly, it will start and run without stalling again. Strangest issue ever. Reseting the computer seems to fix it temporarily.

Yes, unfortunately it came back. I've switched many sensors, coils, cleaned grounds, ecm ect... Still have the issue. Gonna try the zip ties next to make the connectors seat better.

@@cnote001 do you think it's still that connection? When you play with it does it go away again?

@@cnote001 Save your time that trick only works on the 4.0L engines. Chances are it's your crankshaft sensor.

@@cnote001 Might be inside the CPU, like in the ABS computer where they resolder everything, might have to get a new CPU...

Ha!! I'll have to check out the show. Funny because my name is Corey too!!

How did it turn out?

And you watched it!! Lmao

@@cnote001 I was waiting for you to get to the point!

@@officialWWM well dang! I think I got to it at 11 minutes! You just missed it!

I have the exact same issue and feel your pain, Does yours have two cam shaft sensors?

@@waynereynolds8094 I think mine has only one, under the distributor cap.

@@TheSpineSplitter1990 I have a v8. Have to made any head way with it?

@@waynereynolds8094 Took my Jeep to a mechanic last week and got a call yesterday to pick it up to drive test it to see if they fixed the stalling issue and they didn't fix it. They can't find the problem. Had it scanned again and now I get a MAP Sensor code and a Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid issue. It still drives fine but it stalls randomly at idle or at a stop. But I'm able to turn it back on 100% of the time fast. I got one more guy that I know who knows about electrical issues so I have to give that guy a call.

Only temporarily unfortunately

@@cnote001 Did you replace the computer/ecm with a new or used one? The used one could have been in worse condition than your original one. Did you check for the need for the computer/ecm to be reflowed? I have no affiliation with these guys, but try ecmrepairs website or another ECM repair company, you have to make sure all the solders and connections are working to rule it out. Mine 97 5.2 is stalling like this... it just had power steering fluid spray all over it... but I tend to think it's the power steering pump causing too much drag... right before mine stalls the battery gauge goes down to about the 1/4 mark... so I think either the power steering pump or the AC or both are dragging on it but I'm just getting started with this since it just started doing this... did you replace your main serpentine belt and check that it is tight enough? Did you clean out your MAF and the air flow path? There is also a thing called Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner and I'm going to try it, have it on order. On these ZJs the intake manifold gasket can fail and leak oil somehow, did you check that? Mine started to stall after the top power steering fluid hose failed squirting fluid all over the engine bay and starting a little fire on a hot day that I got out in time with no damage... at least that's how I remember it, then I thought it was staling when going over a bump due to the power steering having to work harder when under stress... in the morning mine stalls so I rev it at 2k rpm for 3 minutes and then it works for a while. It's really intermittent. Did you change your battery? I suspect my battery is bad, I just had to refill it with water it was nearly totally dry, but every time I take it to OReilly to get the battery/alternator checked it won't stall and their machine says the battery is good and the alternator and starter are good... I think it might have a faulty cell that short circuits if it gets bumped or leaned/tipped just right. So I would try replacing the battery too. It's really a process of elimination and how much patience you have. I love my ZJ and it's been almost perfect until now, by far the best vehicle I've had and we've had Mercedes, Porsches, VWs. Keep us posted please?

I thought about it being the timing chain, how has it been running since timing chain replaced?

How did it turn out?

@@fownine4life853 😢 badly it's still parked in my driveway

Nope, wasn't a permanent fix but I discovered some other things. I got a new computer (ECM) and that didn't fix it. Then I discovered that once it wont start after stalling a few times when I turn the ignition off and on three times in a row quickly, it will start and run without stalling again. Strangest issue ever.

Zip tie those stupid plugs into the computer. It will help. Check once in a while because hot-cold and weather will stretch them. Retighten as needed. It is an aggravating model.

Fuel pump fuel pump fuel pump 100 percent fuel pump your primed it when u truned the key 3 times

Fuel pump is 6mths old so i pretty sure thats not it. I've changed out the ecm an it ran fine for about 2 weeks then started back. I put back in the old ecm just to see what would happen an it did fine for about a 3 weeks then started losing power while driving but it never cut off. I changed the alternator with no change so I'm going to send the ecm off to see if it can be repaired. If it doesn't solve the problem it's going up for sale an be someone else's headache

@@larryschmid3043 I had thought fuel pump because of the check gauges light too. Or maybe a vapor lock. The fact that many have tried changing the fuel pump with no luck made me not try it.

I'm not sure lol. It seemed to stall when it got a bit hotter than 210 so I had it on to get it hotter at idle.

I have the same jeep. Same issue. This video helped alot. But to maybe answer your question about the AC. Think it has something to do with the RPMs. The ac has a good pull on the rpms. Must be some correlation with the computer, the wire issue, and the rpms.

​@@cnote001 the AC is on the same belt as the engine crank as the alternator as the power steering pump they are all on the same main serpentine belt... so if the AC is dragging the belt it can possibly cause the engine to stall at low RPM due to mechanical drag. Did you install a new belt and tensioner pully? My AC makes a single fairly audible clunk noise when I turn it on, I wonder if the AC bolts are tightened down. So here are the thinks that I think could cause it: ECM needing to be reflowed or repaired intake sensors IAC crank position sensor dirty MAF and intake fuel pump bad or weak alternator or voltage regulator bad or dragging power steering pump idler pully dragging AC pulley or pump dragging bad serpentine belt bad battery intake manifold gasket leak bad O2 sensor clogged fuel filter I would go down this list with the help of your local mechanic. I just found that Firestone was super cheap when they fixed my power steering upper hose for around $150. Keep me posted please.