Thank you, thank you. Great video. I usually do oil and spark plugs. This video gave me the courage to try something bigger. Following your video, everything went smoothly. No leaks! Car is running like a champ.
Thank you for your videos! My 1998 Corolla has been getting cylinder misfires all the time. Didn't know what it was until getting codes checked. Long story short, replaced the gasket, plugs and plug wires, thanks to your videos. Spent a little over $100 total doing these jobs myself, almost certainly would have been more expensive. Now I'm a nervous wreck, though, driving around waiting for the sensors to reset, half-expecting the misfires to return, but so far it's going well. One question, the gasket I bought came with what looks like new seals for the super long bolts in the middle of the cover. Are these something I should be concerned with replacing? I couldn't figure out how to switch them out, but I didn't spent much time on it.
Timothy Perschon if the bolt isn’t leaking, I wouldn’t be too worried about it. You can rent an OBDII scanner from Autozone or something and clear the code, it’s much faster Or buy a cheap 50$ one when it goes on sale. Driving around will take a while to clear the code, and sometimes the code won’t go away if it still has a symptom.
I know this is a year old but disconnecting the battery for a couple of seconds (I would try and turn on the head lights just to drain any left over juice) then connecting it bad will reset the codes.
Thanks for the great walk through! I would just caution, be prepared for the gasket around the spark plugs to potentially be dry, brittle, and very sharp. I put a nice gash in my finger prying it up.
Shobuddy, we used brake clean to clean way the harden RTV from the valve cover gasket half moon shape where the crack is at. The liquid gasket you're referring to is called "RTV gasket", you can find it at any autostore, it's in a black tube. I hope that helps.
Thanks man. I should have expanded your video comments since you've got it all listed there. As far as the RTV gasket, will this work: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-.5-oz-22072/7310173-P?searchTerm=rtv+gasket I see a ton of options when doing a search so just want to confirm.
@@NutzAboutBolts bro i changed gasket and took road test everything worked fine then i parked my corolla for a week. After a week when i started my car, all cylinders were misfiring with p0300 p0301 p0302 p0303 po304 codes and flashing check engine light. What may be the cause.?
Thanks for the video ! Mine was leaking bad , was the original gasket , had become really hard and brittle as caramel , good think I decided to change it 👍
Awesome man, just bought a 98 corolla 1 owner 166k miles for 1100. Had some interior needing replacement and owner didn't say it had leaking valve cover. Looks easy enough, thanks for saving me probably 300 bucks!!
Thanks for your videos. I've never done much work on cars, but this video and your spark plug one for the Corolla saved me a chunk of change. No more leak and car is running much better. This was one of the cleanest, easiest to follow tutorials ever.
@@joesaric1 there will be air pressure variances in the cam/rocker area that will interfere with the valves. It's supposed to be under a vacuum and if its leaking, bingo bango you got bad fuel air mixture.
Yes. The gaskets around the spark plugs are included in the gasket kit from the auto parts store. Replacing all of that at once those should solve your problem. (See minute 7:00 in the video.)
RTV made up of silicone, isn't it? It was a new toyota genuine oem rubber gasket. I told mech to put some RTV, but he said 'no'. Then I told him to put a thin layer of engine oil, he said 'no need'. Two days have past, I'll remove plastic engine cover of my toyota corolla after a week to see if there's any leak. Fingers crossed....
NutzAboutBolts Today after driving I found some places near VC gasket sweaty. So it's leaking. Oil level seems unchanged though. I've to redo the entire process now. Thinking about to put thin layer of rtv around the entire gasket contour this time.
Very helpul. I have this exact same job to do on a 2002 Corolla. Wish you had included a torque spec on the cover bolts. Easy enough to find it on-line, though. I am guessing about 89 inch pounds.
This seems like a good video and I always enjoy yours, but I just watched enough to see how the 2000 Corolla engine differed from the 2000 Civic. A friend sent a picture and I said "Hey! A 1996-2000 Civic DX!" "No, that's a Corolla! See how it's DOHC?" "I see that it totally isn't!"
Is there a particular valve cover gasket brand or type that you would recommend? And what was the part number for the one that you used if you have that info available?
MCLiggit we usually get Victor Reinz or Beck Arnley... sometimes Felpro is good but check the box to see if made in u.s.a or Japan. Sorry we don't have the part number for the gasket.
Thanks for posting. Good video. The only problem is in the Corolla 1998 and 1999 the ignition cables are different and at least one of the covers, which could be confusing.
Arturo De La Fuente I agree, there are 2 different ignition systems for the corolla's. It should be the same concept besides the ignition wires and coils... Thanks for informing the viewers about that.
It is a partially good video, you forgot #1 the pattern to tight the bolts back in, and the most important #2 you didn't torque them to the right pounds, what you did will work but once the engine warm up and cool down the cover will expand and contract and that movement will affect the gasket eventually and probably you will have a leak "Again" before you can imagine, however you did a good explanation on what to remove or not....!!
Luis Vellon thanks, we understand and always recommend using a torque wrench, but we've done this quite a lot and haven't had a leak problem before. Thanks for watching! maybe next time we'll add the torque wrench in lol.
Thank u in 2020 I'm going through hard times financially and the mechanics were charging 170 to change spark plugs and 350 for gasket change. I would be taking the bus and probably loose my job for being late if it wasn't for you. Ty ty 😭😭😭
you forgot the piece on the top right bolt that was plugged into a wirng connector when putting it back together i noticed. this was not on my girlfriends car when I changed the pcv valve i noticed and checked your video at the start to see where it should be bolted under.
Wow thanks for this video, I never knew it was this easy! All around the side of the valve cover gasket my car has oil sweating out, now that I know how easy it is to change I'll definitely be doing this myself
+NutzAboutBolts Just did the job, turned out real easy and simple! The old valve cover gasket was all cracked up along the entire length, glad I got this replaced
Brilliant video. Very well filmed and great explanation of all work done. Would this be my problem I wonder?? I’ve oil in my spark plug chambers!! Thanks.
this 'brilliant " tech forgot to mention to use calibrated torque wrench during assembly . It'll start leaking again if overtightened . Can't fix stupid .
Note: this is what the dealer charged me a long time ago $ 945.00 to do this shit. THAT'S WHY I STOP BUYING TOYOTA SHIT. Toyota is a Sucker company. Corolla 2000 was the last money they took from me.
I changed valve cover gasket on my 02 corolla but now engine will not crank. headlight and all other light comes on battery seems fine. may be I moved timing change while trying to pry open valve cover
timing chain is hard to move, not sure why your engine not cranking, but it shouldn't have caused anything to your engine since you're just replacing the gasket. Make sure everything was put back together properly. Check your battery voltage.
you may not be experienced at this and a skilled person may be a better new valve cover installer/cleaner than you are if you are older and out of shape. It may be the last time this is done before the car is ever sold...
check bolts. mine started backing out. would retighten and they'd back out again. one reason i have to do a valve cover gasket change. just ordered new bolts from toyota. hoping that will fix it.
Thanks so much for posting! My valve cover gasket is leaking, gotta knock this out sometime. That does look like a handy tool, as the other posters have said.
+NutzAboutBolts hi there when you change the valve cover gasket the 2 ruber seals come with it they goes on the top where the 2 center bolts goes or goes somewhere ells
I had a problem getting my new valve cover gasket seated properly. It just would not stay in place! And of course when I turned it over to place the valve cover back on it just slipped right off, especially at the corners. Any tips on getting this thing seated properly so I'm not starting the engine with a poorly sealed valve cover gasket?
You can apply a small amount of RTV sealant to the gasket to hold it in place. That’s what we do, make sure to apply RTV on the half moon shape part like in the video to prevent leaking from that part.
Great! That's what I suspected I'd have to do but wasn't sure it was a good idea since no one advised it in any of the tutorials I've seen. Thanks for the fast input!
Ok, I did this today on my wife's 2000 Corolla. This video was super helpful. One mistake I made is I spent an hour trying to pry off the VC only to realize I hadn't removed one bolt. I was trying to pry it off using a screwdriver and in the process scratched the outside surface of the cover as well as the bottom. The scratches don't seem to be too bad and are on the outside so I think I'm safe. The old gasket seemed to be in good shape but I guess you can never tell these things with a visual inspection. I'm hoping this stops the leaking oil. I was constantly having to top off the oil. Fingers crossed! Thanks for the tutorial, NutzAboutBolts! To anyone feeling leary and on the fence, I would highly recommend doing this if they need to. I'm not a handy person by any means but following this video, it was a cinch. Would have taken me an hour tops had I not made the mistake of not taking that one screw off that I mentioned earlier.
I also didn't have a torque wrench so I torqued it to what I'm sure is more than the recommended 8lbs. Will this cause any problems? I didn't torque it super tight. I gauged how tough the bolts were to unscrew and then probably tightened them a bit more than that. If I had to guess, it would be around 15lbs. The gasket also came with two rubber washers that I'm guessing go on the center-middle two bolts on the valve cover. The new washer were loose around the bolt compared to the old ones, which were snug to the bolt so I ended up using the old ones.
As far as torquing is concerned some people can nail it and some people need a torque wrench! So the two grommets that came with it I think you can get away with it as long as they're still in good shape!
Thanks for the video, I just did this today; hope all went well and I have no leaks, I don't think I noticed anything fall into the engine so hopefully no damage occurs. Just ordered a bunch of stuff on rockauto for brakes and my rear struts that are worn out. Rockauto has good deals but trying to find the best shipping cost is like a mini game; it changes shipping locations and price of shipping of the things already in the cart if you add more (different things not quantities of already added items) things to the cart. Time to have fun with a spring compressor for the first time...... Would have just gone with a monroe quick strut but I did that in the front and it sits a bit high even after a couple of years, so am going to go the other route of reusing the springs. My rear drum brakes seem wonky and the right rear one makes a noise once and a while when driving; I figured I'd just replace the drums, shoes, springs, etc in the rear and the rotors and pads up front.
Yea, I got a 98 "Coroller" as I call it, got a bunch of parts from the Rock too. Just did this valve gasket, 4 corner brakes, rotor ,drum & springs, master cylinder, upstream O2 sensor, pcv, Auto Trans filter swap, iridium spark plugs & wires, ATF drain & Fill + separate differential d&f. In March I will continue with the rear struts, water pump, radiator, thermostat, and coolant flush & fill. 279k miles, so far so good.
@@XavierGM503 : Safe bet on Auto Trans is drain and fill. Over certain mileage (I say 100k miles for Toyota) I would not do a flush if its never had one. Drain & Fill is best when done more frequent like 30k miles. Now if the car is hi mileage and never had a trans fluid swap, then replace it with a drain & fill and while you are at it, you can change the filter or mesh screen. I did this to the 98 Corolla that had very burnt black ATF. I did 4 ATF drain & fills every Saturday morning, wife drove about 400 miles between each Saturday, but It can be way less miles driven in between. Basicaly, I say if u didn't start the ATF flushing early in cars life, you are best not starting it at all.
@@mitomr.twiceasnice4358 Once again, thanks for the advice sir, Im trying to get on the DIY world, so probably will do that on my 97 geo prizm (which got the same engine that corollas do) soon.
@@XavierGM503 Sounds good, we learn something new everyday. I don't remember exactly but research your car info to see if the differential has a separate reservoir to drain and fill the ATF in that. 98 Corolla/Prism had this on the 3speed Auto Trans but not the 4speed Auto Trans where the differential reservioir was included with the rest of transmission.
Hey man you make some of the best videos for stuff like this.... Do you plan on doing any more 8th gen Corolla videos? I just was given one and love watching videos on the car
Mechanics gotta get there money, service writer has to get his money, boss has to get his money. Corolla has a really easy to replace valve gasket, some engines its a bit more of a pain
Anything under 15 ft/lbs should be measured in inch/lbs bc larger toraue wrenches arent accurate under 15. The specs can be found in your repair manual aling with the tightwning sequence.
Thanks, sorry me again, I accidentally snapped the breather hose off , it was very brittle baked onto the housing, will it be ok to drive the car 3 klms so I can get to Toyota Spares on Monday ? Mines a 2007 zze 122. Thanks.
What about the one bolt thats missing on the valve cover? Think thats the long stud one that the plastic engine cover attaches to. Is it ok to drive without it?
NutzAboutBolts Ok. So there is no need to have it in place? Every time i take off the plastic engine cover off my corolla it pulls the long stud with it. I cant separate the samll nut and the bolt. They feel "welded" together.
Feda Birdahic I had a similar impression, but the cap nut was just screwed on way too tight. I was able to get them apart using a crescent wrench and a socket. IMHO, it's a maintainability design flaw. A previous owner of a friend's 2001 Corolla had left the long part of the bolt out, thinking it was only there to attach the plastic cover, not to hold the valve cover down. This caused an oil leak, which in turn caused misfires on #3 cylinder from the oil getting into the ignition coil. I replaced the long bolt with a 6mm, 1-40mm bolt, a 6mm flat washer and an 18mm flat washer from the hardware store (no luck finding a source for the real part on a Sunday afternoon). I don't see a need to more than three connection points for a plastic cover, so it shouldn't matter. Now there is no connection between taking the plastic cover off and inadvertently removing one of the valve cover bolts.
We recommend torquing it down since your snug can cause over tightening it. We didn’t use a torque wrench because we’ve been doing this for a long time so we know how to gauge the tightness of it.
I have all pieces removed except for the cover itself. The part in the video where you use a screw driver as a chisel is NOT working. I can get part of the cover up from it, but the other side is super stubborn, any advice? I am starting to damage the whole thing....this is turning into a mess real quick....
Good Morning Thank you for sharing your knowledge, the video is very good. A friend consultation, that tool that you used, what's your name? What brand is it? And more or less how much does it cost? Greetings from Costa Rica, Puntarenas, Quepos
Same engine for the gasket change to be done, mechanics in England are trying to charge my brother two hours labour for a job this man just did in under 15 minutes. Hardly surprising really when they also tried charging £80 for the gasket itself which retails at £23.99. This is why these videos are valuable insights into how to do the job yourself. There are too many scammers doing good mens jobs. Thank you for the upload 😄
Video was kind of relaxing in a way watching you put the fresh gasket on and bolting everything up back together. Aahhhh...it reminds me when I was a kid and I finished piecing together an erectors sets or knex project.
Thank you for your video on valve cover gasket replacement. Newbie here, has anyone done this before? How long would you expect a newbie to complete this project? Thank you
tengo un problema con un toyota celica 97 no tiene fuerza le canbiaro el embrgue bijias tapa y italacion de alta de comprecion esta 120 pero el numero 4 pinton me marca 60 sera tiempo de la correa
What is the reason why the RTV is put on those two specific areas? Why only there? How is that spot different then the rest of the surface where the gasket itself was good enough to seal it? Thanks
It’s where the timing cover meets with the head, so you want to RTV that gap or else oil will leak through it. The gasket keeps oil from leaking through the valve cover.