Well done. You don't leave much room for criticism and clearly you got a good measure of teacher in you; only thing i saw is that you clearly deserve a better camera (e.g., scope light w/camera and/or camera with zoom for the teachable moments.
I hope to some time get monetized and get a better camera. Currently do my videos with a gopro hero 4 and a iPhone 7, just what iv got to work with. A lot of my high school teachers said I have a knack for teaching, ironically I'm a terrible public speaker so videos are easier for me haha thank you for watching and the compliments
I have an extremely rusty cab, and need to do a swap, at some point. In the meantime, I sealed my leaky roof and rusted out top corners, by using gorilla waterproofing tape. Should get me through until I can swap in a rust free cab. Had holes in multiple areas of the roof at the seams along the top, and the top of the rear window, front window and top corners of front window are gone...
I just replaced my Gem module (relay fuse block) today. Windshield leak . Only one small critique. While solder is the best connection Your Crimper is probably a perfect match for som e other but splice connector. I have used an AMP ratchet Crimp with Amp connectors. others cannot be guaranteed. When I use amp connectors with the Amp Crimper I get a mil spec crimp. (I worked for a Nuclear lab and made hundreds of thousands of crimps.)
I just called a windshield guy to reseal. he wants to remove and replace the windshield with new. There has to be a better fix? Permatex and some rust reformer? your recommendation?
Most glass places won’t warranty a reseal since the windshield and sheet metal is unknown condition. It is very worth it to have a new one put in as most glass guys have a compound sealant they put down before the glue
@@BigBeavrSlayer Thanks I hear you. I am going to pressurize the cab with my shop vac and see where the bubbles come out. I'm in California and Rust is a minimal problem. Once I see where it's leaking I plan t o use some JB weld if there are holes and treat the metal with Rust reformer then use some flow able silicon to reseal. that's the plan . It's raining cats and dogs today so Tomorrow will be the day
My 2000 f-150 looks clean. I was expecting too see some evidence of water or corrosion. I started messing with it because the driver window won't go down. The motor works... I pulled it out and put a battery to it. Dumb me should have done that without removing it. Up down works fine. I tried bypassing the GEM... depending on what tan blue wire I used it kinda worked. Now the driver up is down and the passenger up is up? I tried a new switch... didn't help, so I removed the fuse box/gem and It has no corrosion. Ideas PLEASE
@@BigBeavrSlayer thank you for the response. I got it out but broke plastic in the process. What started this is the driver window won't go down. I tried bypassing the GEM , pulled out the motor... it works. I replaced the switch... same thing. It's must be the fuse box? Now I don't know. I doesn't look like water got in there, but it does look like someone has been there before me. thanks for any advise
I changed my gem and now my dash finally works, but now my 4x4 switch is not working My part # Was the same except the last 2 letters, wondering if that's why mine does not work?
Two relays under hood in the small boxed next to big fuse box the one thats more foward is the 4x4 relays check thoose one is engage other is disengage
Yes it can be done. Single cylinder motors are better ran on char gas it is more stable fuel delivery. More then one cylinder then it runs easier on woodgas
