I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 inline 6 2wd selective 4wd. When I am driving down the road and come to a red light it starts making a growling noise when I come to a stop the noise goes away when I put it on neutral. The noise also happens when I turn my wheel all the way to the right. I don’t know what the problem is if somebody can help me out. Not that you can only hear the noise from inside the jeep you cannot hear it from outside or under the jeep so it’s even harder to know where the noise is coming from.
Hey Jim dandy, did you drain and fill your differential fluid? If you have QuadraDrive you have to put in friction modifier and definitely use 75W-140 gear oil in front and back. I think it's possible you lost to much gear oil from differential and its the spider gears causing the howling noise from being very hot and not properly lubricated
No need to remove the hub nut if you're replacing the bearing, just pull entire unit out- I have a 96 for many years, good idea to replace the 3 13mm 12 point hub assembly bolts bolts as they do rust and can be hard to get out
Great video. I've found that when I shift from 4x4 into 2wd often if I do not do a certain order it will make that grinding noise. My go to technique is to get on level asphalt, shift into Neutral, shift the transfer case from 4x4 into 2wd, put the car in reverse, do a turn at the end and a turn the opposite direction going forward afterwards. Sounds crazy I know, but it seems to be the only solution sometimes for me
Check your tires air pressure and make sure all 4 tires is the same size/tread depth. The computer for the internal differential clutches tells the clutch to activate because one tire or two will go a different speed than the other tires and it constantly activated and deactivates 4WD/Vari-Lok limited slip. Owners not changing diff fluid every 24K miles and transfer case fluid every 30K miles And owners not changing all 4 tires when they get a couple tires low tread or a flat then put only two new tires on is the main cause of Chrysler transfer case failures on all their AWD/4WD Vari-Lok/QuadraDrive vehicles.
I had a growling noise in my zj for a long time. It ended up being my transfer case chain (NP429) had stretched and was sawing on the bottom of the case.
I'm so beyond frustrated watching this video. It was great until it got to the part where I need information. The part at the end where u had trouble getting the axle in. U skipped over it completely and then cut to driving away. I have no idea what u did to get that axle in and thats the only thing I need to know. There isn't one video on RU-vid that shows anyone actually getting the passenger side cv axle installed in a 90s jeep grand cherokee. They ALL skip over that part and then just show it finished. Is the rubber on the boot supposed to be seated flush up against that metal part or I'd there a little gap there where u can see the metal ring on the boot? I'm talking about the wheel end, not the differential end.
I have a 99 jeep grand Cherokee I have a vibration in the rear started when I was in the gas, an when I hit a decent sized dip or bump In the road it sounded like my tire hitting the wheel well rubbed or something. Now the vibration is stronger an it does it when I'm in the gas an out of gas an coasting but not is strong as when I'm In the gas an it seems like it gets worse when truck gets out an driving constant, idk what it is it could b a few things but I do not have the money to buy all those parts to find out.
nice clear video. this will help greatly when I attempt to replace mine. do you recommend replacing the hub bearing assembly? or should I be okay putting my old one back on?
I don't like reusing old hub bearings that I have no idea how many miles are on them, but if they are not making noise when driving, don't seem to have much play and feel good when you spin them you could save about $75 ea by reusing them. If you plan to reuse them try not to beat too hard on the part with the studs in it and concentrate on a chisel between the yoke and the hub. You can ruin the bearing by hammering it really hard, but if you don't plan on reusing them beat away. We were trying to solve a bearing type growling sound that later turned out to be a problem in the transfer case (likely the transmission input shaft bearing). A rebuilt transfer case solved that noise. The new Axles/CV joints solved the clicking problem.
My best guess is that a "whining" sound is more likely a bearing, but it could be in the transfer case or front differential as well. The good news is if you have a cracked boot you likely need a new axle/CV joint, and you should replace the wheel bearing (hub) with the axle swap. So for like $275 in on-line parts you can replace both axles and both wheel bearings. A wheel bearing usually changes pitch as you turn back and forth, going about a constant 40MPH on a straight road. The CV joint usually makes the clicking sound when making a turn. A mechanic could get it on a lift and do some quick checks to find a wheel bearing or CV joint problem, and listen for where the whining is coming from, if you want to spend $75 upfront to be more confident, but your 1/3 the way to the cost of new axles and wheel bearings.
The "axle" comes as assembly with the CV joint. The axle sticks out of the CV joint on both sides and has splines that engage with the transmission and wheel bearing. It's normally the flexible CV joint that goes bad.
Howling is most likely the Quadra-Trac NP247 transfer case piece of crap that somebody added the wrong fluid. It takes special mopar fluid that the "speedy lube" places don't have so they add Trans fluid or 90wt gear oil
You are correct. I have a video out wear I tear down the NP247 transfer case, change some bearings, and go over the importance of the special fluid. I had a very experienced mechanic argue with me that transmission fluid would be fine, but NO. Since this has the clutch plates in the "progressive clutch"/viscous coupler it needs the expensive special fluid.
Great video. I just had my driver side CV axle replaced on my 2004 Laredo WJ two days ago but it's still making that clicking noise and it's frustrating. I need to replace the other side too but I'm still hearing it on the driver side. Do brand new CV axles already have grease in the boot? Any ideas why it could still be making the click noise? Wheel bearing maybe? Thanks in advance.
New CV axles come fully greased. It only gets out if the boot rips . As far as the clicking, I would have to hear it to diagnose, but CV's usually click during turns. My best guess would be some imperfection on the brake rotor.
I don't like reusing old hub bearings that I have no idea how many miles are on them, but if they are not making noise when driving, don't seem to have much play and feel good when you spin them you could save about $75 ea by reusing them. If you plan to reuse them try not to beat too hard on the part with the studs in it and concentrate on a chisel between the yoke and the hub. You can ruin the bearing by hammering it really hard, but if you don't plan on reusing them beat away.
We got the Jeep up in the air and got the wheels spinning and the noise is coming from the Transfer Case. We opened up both differentials and they looked OK. When we pulled the drain plug on the Transfer case only about a cup of the wrong type of fluid came out (Red ATF vs. NV247 MOPAR), so it has issues. I have a new video out there where I rebuilt a junkyard NP247 J Transfer Case and we plan to put it in next week, so look for a video in late APR17. At this point I'm not sure what's making the noise, but likely a loose/jumping chain or maybe planetary gears or a bad bearing. That video will be coming later and most likely we'll know what was causing the growling.
We did put in a rebuilt junkyard transfer case and the growling went away. I've got the old noisy one torn down, but didn't find a smoking gun, but I'm pretty sure the transmission input shaft bearing is the culprit. We got busy at a friends house using his lift and didn't video the TC swap, but I'm working on a video of tearing down the old noisy TC. I'm trying to come up with a device that will spin the bearing and cause it to make the growling noise, plus I need to clean the bearing and do a good visual inspection. With an NP/NV247 (also 245 & 249) you really do need to use the special MOPAR TC fluid to make the progressive coupler work properly (i.e. don't you ATF+4). Without the MOPAR fluid the most common problem is popping when going around corners since the clutch plates don't have the friction modifiers they need.
the Hub bearing you used was not the correct one. I'm sure you noticed or maybe you didn't but the original lugs had a spacer built into the lugs and keeps the rotor from spinning or moving that may cause the lugs to be sheared off. all the after market ones are like that and all you cheap skates out there don't even see it. you want a Moog part# 513159 or the one from the dealer. YOU COULD BE KILLED and should at least point it out to all those people that you gave advice to. The guy who owned my kids car didn't know either and they had the wheel on so tight they stripped the lug nuts on and the wheel was a bitch to get off.
The worst CV joint I have ever seen. Probably not healthy at all for the diff seal and bearing, because of the vibration and out of round movement of the axle shaft. Any growling sound could be the rear CV joint on the front driveshaft that is shot. Or it could be the pinion bearing or carrier bearings. Check and replace the diff fluid. In your case it was the transfer case.
There is NO WAY you could have safely driven that vehicle more then 20 miles an hour with that much damage to the front axles. How does anyone let that get that bad? Obviously someone had that money to fix it, because you made this video. I have worked on several Jeeps over the years, including this years model. This is by far the worst one I have seen, in the video.
I broke my right front CV joint while out wheeling and drove it home over 200 miles at highway speeds. That's the beauty of a CV joint it will let limp home while a u-joint type axle won't. Sure it made a little noise but nothing you can't put up with.
You can use repairpal.com to get good estimates on shop repair costs. A shop is going to charge about $800 per side for this job. You will likely also end up with a new wheel bearing hub for another $150 each. You could do both axles/CV joints and both wheel bearing hubs for about $350 in parts bought on-line or about $600 from local parts stores . It's not a real hard job, but not one for the average guy with just basic tools and knowledge.
