Had an identical problem on a 1999 230, diagnosed as a bad ECU but due to cost I investigated some of the parts he was thinking of replacing. However it ended up being very different. Instead of a 2000 dollar ECU it was 30 dollar ABS brake sensor. Since the sensor was bad it went into limp mode and behaving exactly like this. Once replaced the car ran perfectly. The part is available on Pelican parts and they have a how to guide on replacement
I have seen this before on my car. I opened the ECU, replaced 2 x electrolite caps each 100uF/40V for new ones. I soldered the PCB connectors on the circuit board again, I soldered the Small boards wich stand up vertically. I did not touch the SMD components. But basically whats happening is that the solder (which is led free) is kristallizing. Meaning it goes bad.You need to ask a guy who can fix up the solder with some SMD flux making it shiny again. After the soldering has been fixed and caps replaced you could be lucky and have a good ECU again, without all the trouble of having to re-mary the ecu to the car again. This might not work for you, but I have red about others who had dry joints in the solder. Proceed at your own risk.If you want to make sure you are doing the right thing let the MB garage do the repair.Good luck mate. These are my 2ct.
i have a early 97 slk230....my prob was abs and asr light on..bought the icarsoft mb v1.0 scan tool £150 uk money...let it go on auto scan and it went to 16 things...it commed with most of the things not all....but did tell me front right abs sensor was bad...got one off ebay fitted after cleaning the ring thing on the hub and then the tool cleared the fault...started the car and wow..all the dash lights went out..well happy
if you havent solved this issue yet, open up the plastic cover that has the big plug to run the codes in the car and in there you will see engine computer, pull it out and there is an ASR box mounted to the engine computer. replace this box. Limp mode will go away. if you have surging idle, esp/abs/asr light on with no check engine. the MAF would be second step after replacing asr box but u already replaced. these are interchangeable from slk to slk. im slightly unsure if the c230 kompressor ur pulling parts from will match part numbers for the ASR box. just read the part numbers. but for sure if ur esp/asr light is on and youre in limp mode replace this box. -mercedes tech.
Old vid I know. But I had the same issue today, the three alan key bolts on the throttle body were the issue, I loosened the three bolts off, cleaned the throttle body in situ, I then tightened the three bolts just hand tight, worked fine, tightened them with an alan key, it went bad again, so slacked them off again, redid hand tight, car works great.
Did you clean the mass airflow port and another that will make her go kaput and idle rough is the egr valve.. my car drove ok but idled rough. About 6 dollars fixed it.. always start with the cheap and easy fix first my guy.
Not sure if you still have the car. Pull the ECM FUSE. Master reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery terminal then drain the remaining charge by pushing the brakes and light switch on/off. Connect the negative terminal to the positive terminal. After 30min to 1hr. Limp mode deleted.
hiI have the same problem in my slk230 Kompressor. I have followed your path as well and have had no success . it is displaying the same symptoms. Please can you post a follow up or possible solution . It would be greatly appreciated
Hi thank you for the response. Did you check for the correct operation of the supercharger. Some further research has revealed that the MOSFET can be faulty in the ECU . Please keep us updated.
I know that this is old but did you have any oil in the ecm wiring loom as it wicks down the loom from the camshaft magnet common problem with cars that age.
As you did this work a year ago I would have a look at the camshaft magnet plug! It wouldn't surprise me if you found oil in it. If you Google it you will find that it is a simple fix my wife and son both had a slk230 we do all the work on the cars ourselves as most of the garages i find are rubbish.. Good luck.
@@officialdsharp I hope this link helps you out. Ensure to disconnect the negative on the battery before starting the removal process. It is located above a panel that you must remove first in order to expose the bottom of the engine. It will be bolted directly to the transmission. I found this link for you specifically describing the entire process with pictures. www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-SLK230/19-ELEC-Starter_Replacement/19-ELEC-Starter_Replacement.htm
I'm sorry I do not have anything on that but my friend has 3 of these cars and I work on them regularly. I will post any videos I have of me working on them. Have you looked at a PCV valve. That's usually my first check for oil in the air filter.
Did you put a new o ring on it if so try to manually reset tranny because u can erase codes from the ecu but you need to reset the tcu aswell turn key to acsessory (two clicks just before start) floor the gas for 2-5 seconds (5 to be safe) turn key back off (while foot still pressed down) (you should feel a little bump when u press gas down) when car is off take foot off gas and leave key inserted for 2 minutes in the completely off position don’t touch a single thing (don’t even get out of the car) just sit there for at minimum 2 minutes then start as normal tcu should be set to factory standard
try draining and flushing your radiator a few times with water, then place new coolant. run the engine and drive it to corculate the coolant. when my engine feels rough, i refill the coolant reservoir since i notice it being empty. hope this helps.
Mervyn Naidu The car has been sitting for over a month with the new computer in it. Right now I can't do anything else myself because of the start error. The new ECU needs to be "married" or reprogrammed to the car. If I can find a way to do that myself, I will do it. Otherwise it will need to go to a Mercedes dealer or specialist.
@@armaleyvaten it was the ECU. After buying a used computer for it online and having to have it reprogrammed to the car, it solved the no acceleration issue.
Sad. I have my fathers 1995 Toyota Tacoma, which he purchased new and when he passed away 10 years ago I was given it. I now have 287,345 miles on it, drive it 70 miles per day on a motor route and the only thing s that have been done to it is replace the brakes a few times, change one injector and change the muffler. Oil changed every 3000 miles and Seafoam used in the gas once a month. Maybe the Germans should hire some Japanese engineers as the cars they build don't see to hold up to good.
This Mercedes oldt cars rost cars and électriques problèmes now techniques from industries logistique zéro now studium for construction from this cars germany électriques industriels now compétences ok this ist SLK 230 SLK kompressor
Lawrence L came up with camshaft actuator modulator ( which I replaced), camshaft right position sensor (replaced), recirculated airflap output stage, and compressor output stage magnetic coupling. Plus the BAS/ASR Light is still on
Fuck me with all the comments on here saying differnt things the only thing you have not replaces is piston ring 🤣 going of the comments on here just buy a new engine
