Hi mate and all who commented, I have watched most of your videos, they are really helpful. Thanks. I need help with my vehicle situation. Mine is a 2000 Toyota Landcruiser Prado 3L KZ-te Turbo Diesel engine. I regularly service my Prado no sign of failure when driving until it mysteriously speed away from me recently. After the event, I have discovered my Prado have excessive diesel in the oil sump which I believe caused the ‘Run Away Diesel’. After experiencing the out of control motor vehicle, my mechanic friend suggests injectors need replacing. I took his advice and replaced 4x remanufactured Injectors with new genuine Denso Nozzles and all relevant washers. While at it, I serviced the Electric Control Valve and Return Fuel Line, drainned the contaminated oil, New Oil Filter, put fresh oil in. After test driving over the past days all is working fine, but the sump is full of diesel again. 95 Series, the injectors are external which clearly visible to the left of alloy head, no sign of leakage from injectors nor injector pump and all the fuel lines etc… that I could see. At present it is running fine not overheating, no coolant in oil nor does it blow any black or white smoke at all, no loss of engine performance, the exhaust fume have a slight smell but no sign of leakage or sign of bad rings. I have not test for run away yet as I think I would happen again. I got the injectors from a reputable Diesel Pump and Injectors Specialists who tested my old sets and said they are working ok which I am concerned about my Prado. I don’t know any other way how excessive diesel could get into mix with engine oil. Can someone shed light on my vehicle issue. Thanks in advance. Thuan
Try posting on the 1kzte owners facebook page, you'll have better luck there. My guess is either bad piston rings or a crack in the head near your injector. Both problems would also increase your crankcase pressure so test to see if that is too high. You could be burning oil due to a failed turbo or head gasket/cracked head. Your fuel pump may also be over fueling the injector (if that's even a thing). Hope this helps. I'd start by checking the turbo and fuel pump before pulling off the head
Thanks very much for responding, yeah I got a reply fb 4wd group a couple days later. A gentlement said possible caused is injector pump leaks fuel at timing case and end up in the oil sump. I pulled my pump out wasn't easy due to never been off since new 2000. Got new geniune denso seal fitted at the front shaft and an new O ring by the pro at the shop. Put everything back together with fresh oil, I am just keeping an eye on the oil level and see it all goes. Cheers
Just a quick note, the problem 'diesel leaks into oil sump' has been resolved. Yes new shaft seal has done it. Have been eying the oil level over past many weeks, all ok back normal. Relieved.
Just installed a second hand pump and its a prick to start will recheck my pump timing but does the pump need to be primed or bled in any way when reinstalling?
Hola. ¿Para cambiar el retén del eje mayor hay que desarmar la bomba o cambiar sin desarmar? Muchas gracias Hello. To change the main shaft seal do I have to disassemble the pump or change without disassembling? Thank you so much
you should be able to replace it by taking off the plastic timing belt cover, timing belt and injection pump timing belt gear. Leave the metal timing case cover alone and you should have access to the seal.
Hello from Trinidad. You videos are very informative. I am wondering if you can help with a problem I am having. I have a j95 prado with a 1kz-te. It always starts right up no problem,however sometimes i get a loss of power sometimes no power at all the the motor would make a weird knocking cooing sound. I have cleaned the tank replaced the filter and primer pump i added a lift pump i had the injection pump serviced i am going to do the injectors on Monday will let you know but if you or anyone knows of a fix and definitive cause i would truly appreciate it. Thank you
So you don’t need a diagnostic tool to find out what’s throwing a code? Just bridge some pins and read the flashing light? That’s awesome! So how did you fix the timing problem ? Did you have to go back in and readjust it slightly ?
Hey mate best 1kz vids i have found on you tube. Any chance your going to do one on diagnosing your injectors via a cheap scan tool and changing injectors?
I had my injectors rebuilt by MTQ Engineering for $70 each. I wont be doing any diagnosis videos on them but I can make a video about how to remove and replace them if you like?
@@dingeldiy remove and replace vid would be awesome. Yea i thought about it after im not sure if you can use a scan tool to diagnose them anyway just thinking about it. My stupidity.
Hi i need the wiring diagram to the new pump like installed in your kz. my harness has broken of plugs no clue as to where they are going please help!!!!
Great video mate nice and clear, we have been trouble shooting a 1KZ no fuel to the injectors, its getting a signal from the ecu to the spill valve but still no go, we are thinking its a dud spill valve or maybe the spill valve relay which we can not find, its a 1994 surf do you know where the relay is located ? or have any idea what the problem might be.
@@dingeldiy yeah it did have to come out once to do a gasket but has been running fine for some time, just cant find the bloody relay been under the dash and left of the foot well where it is supposed to be but only found 5 pin relays and it's supposed to be a 4 pin relay, a bit stumped!
Hey buddy, try getting an air compressor and blowing in the fuel tank, make sure you have the primer pump disconnected, once you get fuel from tank plug that hose back in once primer is full and spilling diesel hood that hose back up for the pump! I've had a similar issue and it was stupid enough it just wouldn't pickup fuel! After this step I have fuel all the time!
Main reason the standard VE timing tooks arnt needed on a 1KZ-TE pump is because they dont have a bolt in the head plug located on back of the injector pump. Also take a zero offset ring spanner and bend to 90 degrees to get to the back bolt of the mounting flange. Dont remove rear support from the pump just remove the 2 bolts from the block.
Thanks for the video. This got me over the line recently after having to swap injector pumps over from my cooked 1KZ to a new refurb'd one. However, I am not entirely convinced on the point of lining the metal ledge with the line on the ear of the pump. I'm wondering if thats just a general starting location but still needs to be fine tuned from there? My 95 series Prado 1kz-te motor seems to be idling a bit rough after following these instructions and blowing a decent puff of smoke on start up which it never used to do (this could just be thenew engine too). Also the engine feels a bit "laboured" and "sluggish" when driving een compared to my old cooked motor with the cracked head! I'm wondering if the pump does need to be fine tuned using those tools you bought like what was described in that YT video where the bloke tunes the 1HZ pump? (I presume thats the same one you watched). Other schools of thought are that you set it to that line as you described and the ECU automatically adjusts the timing based on various sensors around the engine reporting back to it. Any further thoughts on this? Cheers, Sam
Best take it to an expert diesel mechanic, this advice is what worked for me and im only relaying all of the information I wound online while trying to rebuild my first ever engine
@@dingeldiy yeah fair enough. I've since discussed this with others around the interweb and theirs definitely some more finer tuning to be done with clocking the pump tiny bit one way or another (usually advancing). One bloke in particular found 2mm advanced (from the marker ledge thing) worked wonders for his engine but I'm sure this varies slightly). Cheers for getting back to me 😎👍
Hey man I have a 2001 hilux 3.0 td. 1Kzte. when I've started my truck first thing in the morning it idles fine for the first 5 minutes or so and then after 5mins it starts to surge. Has real small surges at like sometimes 1 second intervals or sometimes 5 second intervals. I have done the injectors already haven't done the fuel filter yet. it isn't using oil or water and havent had any overheating problems. Just wondering if you've come across this problem before?
I haven't personally come across this problem. Check the 1kzte owners facebook page. you'll get your answer there. sounds to me like a leak in the intake system or air in the fuel
Hey guys I’ve been having trouble with my 1kz pump The underneath brown socket what color are the cables mine are messed up being trying to figure them out they’ve just been burning my ecu 😭🤦🏽
depends who you ask really. The more "mechanical" pump means you can do the correction mod for cheap gains. Where as the more "electric" pump is newer, more modern and tuneable. Plus its fly by wire meaning you can use a throttle controller too.
@@dingeldiy how can you tune the electronic pump you showed in the video I have a 1998 Toyota surf 1kz electronic pump any idea how I tune it has cable then goes some where then turns into fly by wire
My 1hz injector pump was rebuilt. I aligned the factory timing marks on the pump and the timing gear case. The engine idles rough. Do I need a dial indicator to time the pump considering the fact that it was rebuilt with new head and rotor
Hey Mate, great video thank you for posting. I am currently having a problem with my 98 Surf with a 1kzte. I recently replaced the timing belt and afterwards it started up and ran fine just as it always had. Drove it about 8ks down the road then it just derated and wouldn’t go over 1200rpm. It now won’t start. I have tried replacing engine ECU to rule that out but it hasn’t helped. I am now thinking the pump. Ever heard of this? Cheers
I haven't heard of this. Have some fresh eyes check over your work with the timing belt. if it's all good start diagnosing your fuel pump and its timing. would be a massive coincidence that it started playing up due to other reasons just after you've done a timing belt.
Hi can please show from side view the marking suppose to be at? Cuz i got land cruiser 3.0 check engine light will pop up when rev and power loss when check engine light on, engine will knocking, Check the mark is higher from the mark at timing case. Ive re-time the injection pump as you showed. After re-time pump, when speeding no check engine light, but when cruising rpm1800-2000 check engine light will pop up again, and power loss. Can help?
first check your timing belt is installed correctly. if the belt is ok, alter the timing of the pump as ive described in this video. change it bit by bit. test drive the car until it runs smooth.
@@dingeldiy really appreciate your reply 🤝 ive alter the time bit by bit. More it near to the mark engine will long crank before start. I suspecting theres an issue at the pump itself, would it be the pump?
Hi i tried the resistor mode on my prado kzj 95 and there was now difference i have problem i dont have power its really slow any idea on what can it be cos i tried mant things
If there is no difference revert to stock Issues for low power can be many things Start with a compression check If all good check for boost leaks and that the intake is not blocked After that check your fuel system. Change fuel filter and service injectors. If you still have problems after that the problem will most likely lie with the fuel pump
There is a timing gear and timing pulley attached to this pump. You can see how that works here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R6QUOvgyFu0.html
Also just having this same issue,iv just changed my pump,now slower than normal to turn over. Thanks for the video,very helpful. Anyone any ideas why it's slower to turn over? Also,do I need to bleed injector lines after install? Still can't get it to start. So far...changed relays, including spill relay, located in cabin passenger side behind glove box, taken out and tested injectors, new glow plugs and still nothing. Anyone help ? Thanks
could be heaps of things check this link and start with the easiest and cheapest option til its fixed www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/engine-wont-rev-past-2000rpm-150993/
I seen this type of blinking codes on Volvo. Only few codes but better than nothing. I worked on BMW e90 recently ...List of error codes run in few hundreds. I sold that car ...and does not want modern cars any more. I will run old diesel til i figure out witch electric car is cheap and reliable to move forward.
I was also old school guy just like you but I started learning the new cars and man, I would say if you equip yourself with knowledge of modern engine PCM and also get yourself a good scan tool which must be bi-directional communication, not even an expensive one you will be good. New technology gives you more miles per gallon and troubleshooting is easier than mechanical stuff. Cheers from Sout Africa.
The pump "ears"/mounting tabs have slotted holes so that you can loosen the nuts and rotate the pump the same way you would do with a distributor on a petrol engine.
@@dingeldiy If you replace the plug on the hydraulic head with a 2L2 plug so that you can insert a timing gauge, rotate the pump clock wise with a coupling the lift must be 2.39 mm
What are the symptoms? Start by troubleshooting. Find out things that are correct and then by process of elimination you should be able to find out the problem
