Me & my wonderful dad, God bless him. We have to put one on my mothers 06 escape. Bless you mom. this helped. We already do a little mechanic work on the family vehicles. Thanx to the guy that made this video. Bless you young man,..
Nice Job. People can measure from the spindle bolt to the fender before they start the job and then jack up the control arm to that height before tightening the bolts.
Great video! Only thing I would add is that I torqued my lug nuts to 100ft/lb and they came loose on me. I had to go to 150ft/lbs and they stayed tight after that. YMMV.
Thank you for the video,,,i think not too many people owns these vehicules anymore,,,but i do,,,the bolt order info was great,,and it worked pretty well,,,as the last comment mentions, from RonBo, taking the measurement from spindle bolt to the fender is a great tip so the rubber will not be xtra streched when the car is drop down in normal position,,,this is for tighting the 3rd bolt
Thanks for the video, I think my 2003 will be needing one of these soon enough. Another viewer commented about ride height and you said just put the vehicle on the ground before tightening up the bolts. So just to verify, I would put the tire back on, drop the jack and then torque those two bolts on the frame side of the control arm...I'm not the best mechanic by any means but I am poor so I need to learn all I can for the DIY jobs. Thanks again.
+Scott Brown yes ,you got it correct. Leave the bolts loose for the lower control on to the subframe, tighten everything else.put the wheel back on tighten your lug nuts and with the truck on the ground you can tighten the last bolts for the lower control arm.
The mech a nic Like you said I was able to remove the 2 of the 3 bolts. I'm stuck on the 1 that you said would be the toughest . I lifted the ball joint side up some to relieve pressure but it's not turning out to easy. I wonder if I should pop it out of the the wheel side where I removed the bolt? Do you think that would remove some of the pressure. I'm sort of stuck in one position haha
Yes,remove the balljoint end because you're fighting against the suspension and cv shaft. Once you get that side out you should be able to pry out the last part. Sorry I misread your comment. Don't force the bolt out or you may break something. If it starts to move a little then run it back in the out again. Sometimes running a fastener in then out multiple times is what helps free it
serious thanks man, going out in the field on a sunday evening and you told me exactly what tools to bring. super awesome of you to put the tool sizes in the video!
Thanks man. My escape keeps killing tires and this looks pretty simple after replacing all the cats and water pump. 02 v6 xlt escape.love her. This will be my next weekend fix
@@oOoOKylinaOoOo its the manual from parts store. a 20$ book from napa or auto zone that shows how everything is tore down and replaced. a youtube video will help aid the visual. its not that bad of a part to change.
It's nice to see someone actually know the torque specifications and use them. Most shops I see just tighten everything with the impact and move on! Where are you located and how much would you charge for this job if I supplied the parts?
+The mech a nic thanks for the comment. Although I did get two torque specs mixed up due to bad info on the internet. I did address this in the comment section.its pinned. If you're nearby I won't mind working on your car. Thanks for watching.
Didn't you just guarantee that the rubber bushing will tear when the vehicle is lowered to ride height and the arm rotates and the bushing stays secured in the old position? I was taught to measure your ride height from the center of the axle to the bottom of the fender and then use a jack to set it back to that position before tightening the bolts. It would seem to me that doing it this way when the control arm is raised up when the vehicle is lowered, any further upward movement will twist the rubber bushing even more. Was I told wrong?
Matthew Caswell you are correct. at the 6:15 Mark I said to "load" the suspension with the floor jack .Which is the same as you stated about measuring. so I did do it correctly .I just didn't get the floor jack holding up the control arm in the frame while I was recording.
I stand corrected.. Not sure how I missed it unless its because you didn't show that step. Hopefully even though my comment is wrong, someone will see your answer and make sure they do it right.
+Matthew Caswell no problem, I should have did a better job at showing the floor jack holding up the lower control arm while tightening the bolt . Thanks for commenting, it will help clear things up for other people. Thanks for watching.
As long as the two bolts out of the knuckle are hand tightened and not secured, when you rest the vehicle back on it's tires under its own weight, the bushings are not secured either so then this is the time when you torque them to spec. The error occurs when you tighten the bolts outside the knuckle first, torque them, and then lower the vehicle and tighten them again. Seat the bolts. Do not secure them or torque them. You won't thrash the bushings that way when you get it to ride height.
My 2003 Escape has this exact tire wear. Will i need to have an alignment done after i replace the lower control arm? It doesn't seem to have any adjustments for Camber on the arms.. just has toe from the tie rods.. right?
Camber bolts are a thing. Shop around for one at your local auto parts store. I know of no models that don't have camber bolts available. This is how you'd adjust the camber. Toe, as you correctly stated, is adjusted with tie rods and ends.
The mech a nic, great video, and mostly great advice. I do not recommend going to a junkyard for anything having to do with this nightmare project. The bolts for these control arms are pretty problematic, save yourself the hassle and aggravation and buy new bolts lol. Right now I am battling this project and losing badly. The front bolt (horizontal) snapped while removing. Do you happen to know what size and thread that bolt is? Its the 1 that requires a 15mm socket or wrench.
Think I'm screwed. The Lower ball joint bolt with the nut and jaws is fu**ed up. the bolt side is completely rounded but the nut came off on the left side. I've tried pb blaster, heat, etc. that bolt will not budge
So the bolt end is rounded off but the nut managed to come off? Then I'd say just get a punch and punch the bolt out. If we're talking about the pinch bolt at the ball joint? As long as the nut came off there's nothing stopping you from punching the bolt out. Have you tried that?
Hey, do you have any idea what’s the problem with my 01 Escape? This is what’s doing, when I unplug the top hose from egr works fine but when I plug it back on, starts to act like having hiccups until almost shut off like can’t breathe. I replaced the egr, solenoid, and the dpfe sensor but nothing works where you thing it’s clogged
Hi i have a 2008 ford escape, im about to replace front lower control arm too. It should be the same procedure. But is it necessary to do a ride height first? Or no?
+Marck Alarcon no the right height is set by your strut and spring. For the most part it shoild be the same procedure ,Just make sure the truck is on the ground before you tighten the lower control arm bolts .
or measure it and then use a floor jack on the control arm to get the same measurement as it was when it was sitting on the tires. Doing it this way makes it easier to get to the bolts to do the final torque instead of working around the tire.
How do you remove the rear bolt that easily? Im having a hard time removing mine, and i'd been spraying lots of penetrating oil. And im afraid if i forced it, the head bolt might break off.
Marck Alarcon are you using a breaker bar? Since that rear bolt goes into the body there isn't much to do besides pure force. An impact gun really helps in this situation.
+Marck Alarcon the other day I used a pipe on a breaker bar to get a 22mm off. I had about 5 ft of leverage and the bolt didn't break. It came out slowly but it came off.
@@themechanic6117 she ask me how much im going to charge her. I told her I don’t know cause I don’t want to rip you off and i Don’t want to rip me off also. So i told her that i was going to look it up and then let her know. So how much do you think?
I stripped the head on both the passenger and driver side horizontal bolts and they are too rusted to tell what they are.. Can anyone tell me where to get replacements? I had to cut apart both control arms with an angle grinder to get to the bolt just to cut it out as well.. Both vertical bolts came out fine. Now I just need replacement horizontal bolts.
