2000 Ford Ranger 3.0L Head Removal Possible Blown Head Gaskets Part 2 

Yep not a hard job, just takes time, and make sure you have the torque specs for putting it back together!

I didn't realize I didn't say thank you for making video but I do appreciate it I'm sure a lot of us do to hope you have a good day

Apparently that is a problem with these 3.0.

look up ford tarus 3.0 head gasket repair same engine.

That's a good point yes!

Makes me not want to watch this video change the music at is that shit

Sliver sharpie marker and the blue is just painters tape.

That's what I've heard and there is a lot of rust! Especially for new coolant. I've heard the water pump has a lot to do with it.

RDAllen The engine design, though not a powerhouse, was simple, reliable and efficient. The problem is that the bean counters at Ford ruined a good design by using poor quality materials. It could’ve gone down in history like the old 3.8 Buick did as far as being reliable and durable but Ford cheaped out on materials and ruined that.

3-4 hours I think it was.

I can check if I have video yet.

Ok what'd I do wrong here then?

@@radozeman 1 Major thing and then the smaller things. The major thing is the use of three different cameras. This made for a very hard video to follow for those of us on YT especially at 8X/10X speed that you are using.. 1) The thing I found repulsive was you using a "crowbar" on the heads. Like can we use Dynamite to get rid of a small rock in our yard type of thing. 2) . You made a mistake on both sides, it was 1 and 5 NOT 1 and 3 so either you got the head gaskets mixed up or you were a normal human and have done what I have done many times. You also have two leaking on 2 and 6. Granted you were looking at the heads! Unless you are getting both Machined....better make sure they go where they belong. I still believe there is nothing wrong with either the heads or the block. IF you Cousin is telling the truth. So if I am correct the firing pattern is this 1-6-2-5-4-3. I am prolly wrong but it seems correct. So back to the heads, so IF 1 and 5 are wet. then we should see something on the head gasket..if it is the head gasket. We only see one hole in the gasket Cylinder 1. What else do we see? Rust!!! It grows! Even with anti-freeze filled with water. There is a way to solve this, but I will keep it quiet for now to see if anyone knows the answer. Time to clean the head gaskets to get a true picture.. both sides. Please use the softest brush you have. Brass is my inclination. In my experience, I have overheated my engine many...and I mean many times. Never did I warp a head or crack a block. Like I am talking..driving 100 miles to get it home. This happened on a Caprice Classic I do believe it was a 1999. Family trip pulling a 18 Ft Trailer, it had a 307 motor V8 of course. AS far as I know...this car is still running, and all I did was change the head gaskets, man that was frustrating, yet fun! Two days and I was done. Yes, I had to buy some parts! The great thing was the store had them! Back to the truck! Investigate that gasket more. In other words CLEAN IT! If your cousin did drive it over 100 miles to get home...well maybe you do have warped heads and a cracked block. I seriously doubt it, but this is when it gets interesting! How far did he have to drive for work? How warm or cold it was. Granted this shouldn't matter "something" about this rebuild, just doesn't sound or feel right!! He drove it twice, and this is the information you have told us.. I personally call B.S. I would rather ask questions and be called a A-Hole, rather than waste my time figuring things out without truthful information. He already has a new truck..RIGHT?? So this is just a project for you. Like the 2510. Have fun with it.

I never asked my cousin how far he drove, he is a builder so it may have been a few miles, to my understanding when it overheated the second time, it shut off on him, won't start so it was towed to the shop. I finally was able to check the heads this week, they are .002-.003 "warped" with one cracked exhaust valve seat. The thing I don't like about them though is the serious pitting around all the water jackets and also on the valves. Intentions at this point is to get new heads (like $300) seems like cheap insurance to know the heads are good. My intentions at this point are to install new heads, gaskets, and few other bits and pieces and then check the motor again before actually trying to start it. Slightly concerned as to what was up with the fuel pressure. Was also definitely planning on flushing the cooling system once done! As for the cylinder #s, I'm pretty sure they had them labeled as 1-3 on the passenger side and 4-6 on the driver.

@@radozeman I can not disagree with the "Cheap Insurance". In theory the heads are "built" to fail(warp), to save the block from warping, but .002-.003 warping should be fine. The cracked Exhaust valve seat well that is a different matter. IMHO both should be replaced as you surmised. The one thing I am worried about are the rings...especially the oil ring. I fear it is now very hard and will disintegrate, since it is made of rubber and a spring coil around it and was heated above normal conditions. IF your cousin only wants to use it sparingly, then skip this. AS with any engine that has overheated enough to stop running, I would pull the oil pan and inspect the bearings. Both the piston bearings and the Crank bearings. Of course you don't have to pull anything (pistons or crank) just take the bottom caps off and inspect them as they come off, if they are not black or scored just put them back onto the same journal or piston and torque to the proper ft/lbs or whatever it is. Sorry for the huge essay, small novel. I need to be concise with how I would go about this. Because, IF this were my vehicle, I would want it to last. If your cousin is just going fix and dump it then many things do not need to be done or if he uses it just for P/T vehicle the same applies.

@@Delekham Well I'm wondering if the reason it stopped running was overheating or something else went wrong? That's what I said about the heads as well, I don't know what the tolerance is, but .002-.003 isn't much, the thing I really didn't like was the pitting. As removing the oil pan, I'll have to check how hard that is, if it is like my truck you literally have to pull the motor to remove the oil pan (ask me how I know....!@#$%!). At this point my cousin is considering keeping it for just a second "beater" truck or possibly selling, which I at least if he is going to sell I want to make sure it is as good as we can reasonably get it. Oh and yes he does have a new or least new to him truck already.