5:39 I wish we had more bike mechanics in Scotland who understood these bikes as well as you do. I have a set of those Vance & Hines pipes but had to go back to the standard pipes as the bike ran like a 3 legged donkey with more banging and backfiring than the Normandy Landings. I can only hope that one day it'll sound as good as the one in your video. Respects 👍
I just did up the front brakes and when I put it all back together (without bleeding/pumping out the pistons first, the small anti rattle shim for the main pad scratched the new (aftermarket, S3 Performance, Australia) disc. I bled the brakes and made sure that the pad was protruding further out but when I installed it, the moveable arm (with rubber seals) slides back out just far enough to hit the shim. So I took the damn thing off. Haven’t ridden it yet, am yet to tackle the carby refurbishment. I’m assuming the anti rattle shim is important ?!
oh yea ! synchronizing a down draft and a side draft. finaly got mine perfect. fun fuel system. was many hours of trial and error. pulls front wheel up now. i put a belt drive on mine too. not scoot works .home made.
It seems everyone who buys one needs my help. I had no idea this video would have been so popular or I would have done a better video. Everyday someone contacts me about their Marauder not running properly.
Hi there, i recently bought a zv800 and i have some issues with it. I needs to rebuild the carbs and figure out where its leaking fuel as well, also how to figure the rear brakes on it
Hey dragon I love the info you put out on your videos. IV got a 03 marauder, I just r&r carbs I can not get it to run past a sputter with starting fluid, IV got spark air n fule, it' definitely wants to run, it has 2400miles please help
First do a proper compression test and tell me what you get. Compression testers can be borrowed from autozone if you don't have one, or they are inexpensive at harbor freight. Watch a video how to do compression test, make sure to hold throttle wide open during test. Let me know what you get and then we will go to the next step.
Hope to be picking one of these up for $800 today or tomorrow. (Australian $) Hasn’t run for about 2 years, old fuel in tank & probably carbies etc. Should I be scared to attack it myself.?
Yeah most definitely do it your self, most all carburetors are the same even though the bikes are different, they all usually have the same internal parts. So you can watch just about any carb rebuild video and accomplish it. And don't get to concerned about getting it perfectly synced, first get it running and you can dial it in as you go later. Most important thing is getting them real clean, including all the little passage ways inside the carburetor body itself and make CERTAIN to set the float height before putting back together. Then you can simply go on line and get information for all initial settings to start from and that will get you started. Make sure to get tank real clean and make sure you have a good fuel filter before you start it up. Good luck.
Hi, great video,,, I have the 2000 VZ Marauder 800, I have managed to get both carburators out of the bike and service them while still hooked up, I can get to the jets, and float bowl and vacuum to do full cleaning,,,I have couple questions,,,,where are the fuel misture screws? I have the Mikuni carbs in front and back,,,,also, I decided to do a full cleaning beacuse the bike rides pretty good, but usually in 3rd or 4th gear when you are gving it full throttle at high RPMs it will bog slightly,,,,,not sure if its dirty carb, jetting, or mixture screw issue,,,any ideas? TY again for your hard work!
Your mixture screws probably still has the factory plug blocking them off, Google to see what I'm talking about. You will have to drill and extract the plugs if they are still in there, it is very important to remove the idle mixture screws to clean the passageway into the carb body, also on the screw it a very tiny oring that needs to be replaced, watch any carb rebuild video, they are all close to the same thing. The idle mixture screws only effect idle and slightly off idle, after that the needle and main jet control fuel delivery. Sounds like a good carb cleaning should do it. Also Google shimming the needle, you can mess with that alittle if it still boggs down. Good luck thanks for watching.
Hey Dragon! My carbs need to be cleaned on my 2000 vz800 I am new to the bike scene as this is my first bike. It does need the carbs clean and not entirely sure how to go about it! Any advice or a good video to refference?
One thing I always tell people is to do a compression test on the engine first, just to know the condition of the engine. Quite often people have alot of trouble getting these bike running right only to find out one cylinder is weak, if that's the case you can't get the carbs right. Hope that makes sense to ya. There are alot of videos on how to do it, and the testers are cheap to buy. So if the engine checks out good then you can move on to the carbs. Most Japanese carbs are the same, so you can watch about any carb video to learn how to clean them, but obviously better if you can find a Marauder or Intruder video. Cleaning them is the easy part getting them set and synced is a little tougher. I don't believe I made a video on adjustments for these carbs, but there should be some videos out there, or definitely some write ups on how to. Always be extremely thorough when Cleaning the carbs right the first time so you don't have to take them back off again. Good luck, hit me up if you have questions when you get started. Thanks for watching 🐲 Here's Dragon Worx Facebook facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057489818717&mibextid=D4KYlr
On last question bro relating to the front cylinder not firing before I do a compression test. What is that electrical plug that plugs into the front carby and if it was faulty (whatever it’s connected to) cloud that be my problem. Thanks in advance
It's basically a throttle position switch to tell the ecu when you are at or near full throttle so it can advance timing. It only effects the bike at wide open throttle
I'm located in Martinsburg wv. I could have you ship the carbs to me for rebuild, but most of the tough part is getting them back on and adjusted properly.
Please I need your help. I've only owned street bikes all my life. Well I just bought a 2002 susuki marauder 800, the guy ripped me off. Long story short could you possibly do a video on how to replace all new throttle cables on this bike please?. Mine sticks until you force it forward to throttle down and this is my only means of transportation
Sorry this was a customer's bike I worked on a couple years ago, I do not have the bike in my shop anymore. Usually when throttle cable stick like that, they are either routed the wrong way through the bike to the carburetors, or the adjusters on the cable near the throttle are too tight. Probably also revs up when you turn the bars all the way each direction. Look up throttle cable adjustment on the internet to know what I'm talking about. Good luck.
I have a 1996 Suzuki intruder and I’m trying to get the carbs synced perfectly I even bought a fancy digi sync. At what rpm do I start with my adjustments? 950-1050? And do I start with the throttle sync screw or the idle sync screw underneath it? I’m mainly having issues when it’s under load under higher rpm’s. It’s gets up to speed but not smoothly it’ll lag and kick in and backfire. I can’t wait till it purring beautifully. Do you have any tips for me that will help me sync them properly? How do i tune low rpm sync and then higher rpm sync? Do I have to mess with mixture screws as well in the carbs?
start with the idle sync... thats the adjustment closest to the back. then you do the throttle sync adjustment screw closest to front..., which is constant revving around 2000 rpm.
@@Marco-qe5zw so the idle sync is the one right below the throttle sync correct? And the throttle sync I can tune it all the way out to 4krpm or is just 2000rpms good enough? I believe there’s also an adjustment on the rear carb that’s connected to the pull throttle. Do I leave that one alone and just focus on the two at the top? Thankyou for your advice it is appreciated:)
First do a proper compression test on your engine, and install new spark plugs. Once you are 100% sure the engine is good, then you can proceed to tune the carburetors. Before you tune them though, idle the bike and spray carb cleaner all around the carb boots to detect any air leaks. If the engine speed changes then you have a leak and need to fix it before you tune carbs. Basically in a nutshell, you need to make sure everything else is right first, carb tuning is the last thing you do. Then you start by removing the carbs and giving them a good cleaning first. Then finally you can tune them. At this point you probably don't have a hesitation any more. Many times the hesitation is coming from something other than adjustments, like dirty plugs, especially dirty carbs and people often try to tune it out with the carbs. The only adjustments you can make on carburetors externally is, mixture and syncing. Mixture adjustment which is just for idle and slight throttle is done by idling your bike down as low as it will go and run, then turn the mixture screw either way until the bike idles up and runs best, then turn your idle low again and do other carb, this will help with hesitation to 1/4 throttle. Next sync them and that should take care of the rest of hesitation. Thanks for watching 🐲 🐉🐲
Hey brotha I just inherited one of these ima need your info if that okay!!! I’m about to move so I’m not digging into her yet but ima need you’re help with the syncing if that’s okay with you?
I will do what I can, these days I am overwhelmed with work because my services are high in demand, I work alot of hours, so I don't get much free time. Follow me @Dragon Worx Facebook: facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057489818717&mibextid=D4KYlr These bikes are tough to get them running right. Thanks for watching 🐲
Im having that issue i believe my carbs ant syncing won't go past 70 if i bearly hit the throttle it will go when i hit it wide open it spits and sputter
If it spits and spudders at wide open throttle it's got nothing to do with syncing. I always tell people to do a proper compression test before messing with the carbs. It may be something other than carburetors. Often it just needs a valve adjustment. It could be a clogged fuel filter, clogged petcock, dirty carburetor, intake leak something like that. Has it sat for a long period of time? Could even be bad fuel.
I have a vz800 v and I have a lot of things going on with my carburetors I been having problems finding rebuild kits for them I have had it running but it was not running that great it was leaking gas from the back carb I cleaned them and it still leaks but I found out something I noticed some one broke the idle jet I guess trying to take it out they stripped the flat head off but I love my bike and how it sounds where can I get a kit for them cheap the only one I found is about 180.00 for one carb is there any you could help a old man out with my problem I really want to ride it once again
If you search carb kits on Google there are endless cheap kits starting as low as $10, the problem is most of them are terrible quality and either don't fit properly or don't last long. These aren't cheap, but good quality:www.ebay.com/itm/372020049383?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1A-TA4LxqQLe-h4r6O8Xjzw67&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=372020049383&targetid=1644837434363&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1018511&poi=&campaignid=20398543903&mkgroupid=153047913833&rlsatarget=pla-1644837434363&abcId=9317244&merchantid=107643029&gclid=CjwKCAjw-KipBhBtEiwAWjgwrCOaNlweEZry_CZKbhdfD96Q_VZUuZj9rjo2rB124Yehc3HFyG38TRoCLkIQAvD_BwE
Iv recently inherited a vz800 and the previous owner said she won’t run. 7,500 miles on the 2003 marauder and I’m looking for help. I’m in upstate NY, can you help?
Right now is my busiest time of the year, I have about a 6-8 week waiting list. Here is my contact info if you want to get on the list. Let me know. facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057489818717&mibextid=ZbWKwL maps.app.goo.gl/m6vHMVf47GuftMtV9
I can try, just have to bare with me, due to the extreme demand for my services right now in the shop, I am very busy, so I can get back to you when I have a moment.
Hi Dragon,,,I have my 2000 Marauder VZ800, I have been working on it very much lately,,,I have a couple questions, it came from an owner that I have no idea what they did to it before me,,,,There are K&N air filters in it and it looks as if someone drilled holes in the stock exhaust, I cannot read the MJs in both carbs,,,,,when I am in high rpms and in 5th gear at WOT once I hit 65mph, it starts to hesitate a bit,,,I feel this bike is lean, ,,,,,,,the bike from facotry should come with 90 and 100 MJs,,,,,I have the 92.5 and the 105 on order just to see where Im at,,,,,also,,,Have you set the valves on this bike? the manual said .003 - .005 intake and .007 - .009 ex,,,,I set mine to .003 intake and .008ex is that ok? The mixture screws are 2.75 turns out,,,,,, AlSO,,,have you sync these carbs with the tool? where do you plug in at on them,,,TY for all the help
Even with the stock main jets it should run about 120mph before leaning out. I suggest you do a proper compression test on the engine before going any further or before you spend anymore money. Watch a video how to do the compression test, don't forget to hold throttle wide open while performing the test. You can rent the tester from autozone In most case, or harbor freight has them cheap enough. Once you do that, repost back to me and we will go from there. Valves adjustment sounds good.
@@thedragon2299 I have a 1996 Suzuki intruder and I’m trying to get the carbs synced perfectly I even bought a fancy digi sync. At what rpm do I start with my adjustments? 950-1050? And do I start with the throttle sync screw or the idle sync screw underneath it? I’m mainly having issues when it’s under load under higher rpm’s. It’s gets up to speed but not smoothly it’ll lag and kick in and backfire. I can’t wait till it purring beautifully. Do you have any tips for me that will help me sync them properly? How do i tune low rpm sync and then higher rpm sync? Do I have to mess with mixture screws as well in the carbs?
@Trueelixir8 the carb sync is done at idle around 1100rpms. The carb with the throttle cables connected is the main carb and the other carb is synced off the main one. If you are having trouble in a different rpm range then you have problems else where. Carburetor Synchronization is the very last thing you do after everything else is deemed perfect. Have you properly cleaned and rebuilt the carburetors? Have you done a compression test to determine the engine has good compression and the cylinders are the same as each other? Have you even changed spark plugs yet? 🐲
@Trueelixir8 sounds like you are actually experiencing a lean condition in 1 or both carbs, meaning the jets are clogged or the carbs aren't getting enough fuel to them. Or you could have a vacuum or air leak, like around your boots. While it's idling spray carb cleaner at the intake boots and see if engine speed changes, if so you have leaks at the boots. That will cause the condition you are experiencing, like I said the other thing would be lack of fuel. Both these scenarios are forms of lean condition.
PLEASE HELP.!! Rebuilt the carbies, refitted them, getting fuel to both carbies but the front carby not getting fuel to engine. Any ideas what is wrong,
@@thedragon2299 I forgot to mention that it has aftermarket slipons and I put a new kit of standard size in the carbies when I put them back together. I took the carby back off checked the diaphragm, changed the needle back to what I thought was the one that was in it (has 27 stamped on it, the other one that was in has a 29) and changed the jet back to what I thought came out of it…still the same problem, float is freely moving.
@@knutz7 How do you know the front carb is not get fuel? Have you pulled out the spark plug and checked what color the tip is? Have you done a proper compression test on the engine yet? It sounds like it's not the carburetor if you did what you say and the float is not stuck, when the piston goes down on the intake stroke, it sucks the fuel out of the bowl through the jets, so not likely it's the carb unless jets are clogged or the the float is stuck and that means no fuel is in the bowl. The only thing the fuel pump does is fill the bowl with fuel, but the engine sucks the fuel from the carb, so if the cylinder is weak, it won't suck our the fuel. So next thing you need to do is check the compression, and make sure you do the test properly, it's very important to know what it is, then let me know what the test results are.
@@thedragon2299 Thanks so much for getting back to me, fuel is getting to the carb as I pulled the hose off, gave the starter a go and fuel pissed out if it,.! Also I undid the screw on the float bowl and a couple or three oz at a guess, came out. Plug is dark colour (it’s new) and once it did start after I sprayed fuel down the throat it got going for a bit and I actually did a lap of the carpark behind my house but only had a funnel of fuel as the tank is off. That’s when I remembered it has a radiator, once it cooled a bit I dipped that up and started it, water squirted out a few holes. Have replaced that and back to the drawing board tomorrow. Bought it off a neighbour and he said it had had a tune up and was running great before he parked it up. (That’s why I’m assuming a vacuum test may be unnecessary..?) Maybe I haven’t got the carbs synced properly, watched you r video and again and one of the “but wait, there’s more” made me think something is out in that regard.
@@thedragon2299 I’ll keep trying. Another thing I remembered was that I had the air filter off while squirting fuel into that carb, and thought maybe that’s the problem? once it got going I quickly replaced the air filter and that’s when it went well enough (but not idleing, to do a lap of the carpark) When it was going I looked inside the carby and the slide was throbbing up and down as the piston was going up and down. Seems to go through a funnel of petrol pretty quick. Anyway, I appreciate you taking the time mate, thanks a lot. From Australia ;)
Hard to catch up with me right now, I am so swamped under with the spring rush, but your welcome to call. If I don't answer, I'm rebuilding a carb or engine or something, so leave a message and I'll call ya back when I have a chance. facebook.com/Dragon-Worx-580746142258787/
Sigh...I have one sitting for year.Paid 650 for carn rebuild and hasnt run since.In fact when I picked it up,I almost stalled on highway on way home at 70 mph.Popping,sputtering etc.Called ahop after I made it home and they said its normal on rebuild and it will smooth out as it uses more gas 😂....I wanna kill somebody
Yeah man that ain't cool at all! , that shit is supposed to run almost perfect when it leaves the shop...they are wrong...unless there is another problem that they didn't diagnose. I alway check compression before I do carb work, to ensure engine is good, because if there is a problem with the engine, all the carb cleaning rebuilding in the world ain't gonna fix that!
I did a tune up and checked spark,air and compression was all same across all cylinders,so In my non professional opinion the shop messed something up.Ot ram WAY better BEFORE I dropped ot off.Going to try another shop next week.
