For the 3rd mount (right side of engine bay under battery), I would recommend bolting the mount the the chassis first. Starting with that hard to reach one in the back, and then bolting in the pin that connects it to the transmission. I bolted mine to the transmission first, and then tried doing that chassis bolt it in the back. Not only did it make it harder to line up, but my threads got messed up and it wouldn’t screw in. Hopefully someone that needs this stumbles across.
Thanks for this it's really helping me. BIG WARNING ON THE 1ST ONE BOTTOM BOLT!! DON'T USE A CLOSED END WRENCH BECAUSE THERE'S NOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE ONCE YOU GET IT OUT TO REMOVE THE BOLT OR THE WRENCH!!
I plan on trying exactly this with my CRV, Im getting steering wheel and dash vibrations during idle so Im certain at least one or more of them are shot. Thanks for this video man, i really appreciate it and will be using it. Maybe ill film it too
I have to replace these on my 2005 CR-V as well. Mine is a stick shift so I believe that at least one of the mounts is different on my car compared to the automatics. This is also the same process on a Honda Element as well.
Nice video, and great idea to fill them in with sealant. I replaced the motor mounts on my ‘04 CRV about a year ago, using those same cheap mounts (followed some other RU-vid video). Now, the car is having the same symptoms it had before, so one of the mounts must’ve gone bad and, sadly, I’m going to have to replace at least on of them again. I wish I’d thought of your sealant trick!
This is exactly the noise mine was doing when accelerating and couldn’t find any other video with the same issue. I did those today and bought mine mounts from the dealer because the aftermarket ones don’t last. They are expensive at $650 for all. There’s a reason why I could see them so cheap on Amazon at $70 for all of them. Thanks for the video👍
I like ideas that are outside the box., There is a product called pourable urethane , it's similar to the stuff found in high performance control arm bushings .Usually motor mounts last a lifetime, so I 'm assuming you have checked for other stuff hitting the chassis etc.,Also what may help is the new synthetic transmission fluid (which is light years ahead of the old factory fluid) .It takes about 7.1 liters ,but only if you drain it completely .There are good u tube videos showing how this is done. I use the standard honda fluid in the rear differential because it is not the same as the transmission. These fluids should be changed if you want the transmission to last, & an added benefit is it will click immediately into gear without any free revving hesitation, which will increase the movement of the engine & transmission, & cause clunking.
Thank you for this video i followed it step by step and now my crv mounts are like new again. Thanks for the upload. would also like to ask what stereo you have installed because i have been looking to upgrade mine with a touch screen.
nice! im glad this video helped. With the stereo, it was just a cheap ebay stereo with bluetooth capabilities so i can bluetooth my music. if you go to ebay, just type in (7" double din stereo) and it should pop up a bunch of cheap ones from $30-$40 range. They're all generic so really theres not 1 specific brand it belongs to
I also found that the a arm bolts should be checked..... the passenger side front had a broken weld. So it would pop back n forth. Make the knocking sound.. I had to fix that . Tighten and spot weld again. It was a factory round nut with spot weld holding location only.
I am watching the video right now. Can you give me any updates? This is a 2 years old video, so it will be great if you tell me for how many miles you got to drive with that job?
The mounts are still holding up great! I didn’t even realize how much time has passed since, wow. But yeah, I still daily drive the Crv and the mounts have been solid. No weird vibrations when driving or shifting of the gears. I really got my moneys worth for sure.
How's your filled mounts holding up? Also, don't forget to change your rear differential fluid. It kind of sounds like when your rear diff fluid goes bad.
I cannot for the life of me remove the rear mount which is supposed to be the easy one lol. I used a DeWalt impact wrench with "600 ft. lbs max breakaway torque" and it will not come out. I'm not sure what to do Do you think it's easier to remove the bottom 3 first and then the 17mm? I also am starting to think maybe i shouldn't support the transmission with a jack while trying to take the 17 mm out.
Try spraying some PB blaster on the bolts. Weird angle for one of them but if you can. And just let it soak for a few minutes and then try to loosen it off. But I would start with loosening the 3 bolts first and make sure your transmission is supported underneath and finally remove that large 17mm bolt. Also if the impact gun doesn’t work, try using breaker bars with long extension to break loose the bolt. Best of luck
Since I window weld the motor mounts, I can’t say for what kind of quality it would have without the window weld but so far mine is still holding up, motor mounts are still solid and good and no weird vibrations coming from engine
Yes, replacing your mounts can help with that. As far as window caulking them, mine I have no issues but others have said they feel vibrations which would makes sense since you’re basically turning a mount into a solid piece.
The engine is suppose to only allow for small wiggle room. Not excessive which can worn the parts and pieces inside it down. Just not good for the engine in the long run.
@@teamfastbreak7 yes. Very much so. I didn’t notice a difference when I had the ac on but granted the motor mounts were busted already so even if it vibrated between the ac on or off, I couldn’t tell since it was shaking already. But check your mounts, I’m sure it’s the main culprit. Sucks to do the job but once u get it done, it’ll be rewarding.
I just got a cheap eBay one for around $45. It’s the double din 7”. There’s so many generic names and makes but it’s all the same. Check out my other video on the latest radio I install into the car.
Car stills runs nicely to this day. The mounts are holding up nicely. And yes the window weld is a type of sealant. When It dries, it become like a hard rubber. That’s probably my best way of describing it.
Oh ahah. Yeah, that’s call a “scangauge 2” it can read trouble engine codes and erase them as well as use for tracking mileage and water temps. Now I really just use it to track my water temp on there. But Amazon and eBay has them for sell. I think it’s cheaper on Amazon.
@@ipodgooroo yeah, it comes with sticky velcros and all it does is hooks up to your obd2 port. Majority of cars 1996 and up should have a port for you to plug in underneath the driver side dash near where the pedals are located.
could be bad gears, low or dirty oil. improper alignment of transmission. really it can be a number of things but these are the things i can think of at the moment. metal gears rubbing itself will tend to go bad over a long period of time.
@@juanhurtado2679 sorry I must’ve mis-read your earlier comment. Grinding sounds from the transmission wouldn’t come from the motor mounts, that would be an internal thing with the transmission.
Some of the old ones were broken already, nothing holding it together, sure the window weld could’ve held it some what but you already went through the trouble of taking them out and replacing them, mind as well put new ones in. At least at this rate, they’re going on more sturdy than normal ones.
I have a 2003 CRV, changing the mounts is beyond my skill level but I like to watch. I have this soft rumbling sound near the firewall when the car is in drive, it goes away in neutral, i've had mechanics replace one of the mounts claiming the others are still good, sound persist, goggle the noise, they mentioned a loose heat shield. I just had another mechanic look at the car, he claims it the transmission mount but transfer case is broken so the mount can't be changed, he recommends a rebuilt transmission. Time for a 3rd opinion.....it's frustrating when you can't figure out the noise and mechanics have their opinion what is wrong.
Man I hear you. I now have this squeaking noise coming from where the serpentine belt area is and I just can’t pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from. I thought it was the belt so went and bought a new one put that on and it made no difference the noise is still there so I have a headache now just trying to diagnose exactly where that noise is coming from.
@@amax7773 turns out it was actually the belt tensioner. Crazy huh? Who would’ve guess, in all my years of touching cars, that’s the first time a belt tensioner has failed and it was a pain in the butt of a job to fix.
For my 2005 Honda crv (Automatic) , Honda dealership quoted me for parts and labor.. Front mount $331, Rear mount $357 and for Transmission mount $491. And that's before tax
That depends on what brand you buy them from. These ones I got were cheap so i assume they aren’t made of the best materials. But so far no issues on them
@@hegotgame8 I would say doing it this way would make it stronger than oem. But only time will tell really. So far it’s been working great. No off vibrations or anything.
I knew it! I have an Element and 1A Auto sent me a garbage ass TRQ mount for a CRV... no balance weight welded on. Like yours. The upper tranny mount should have a weight. They also sent me one so crooked and bent I would never be able to put it on anyway... almost did until it wouldnt go on straight. TRQ sucks... all chinese parts suck... Japanese parts are a lil spendy but they work
true if you already had the subframe off but if you didnt, it wouldve been more work since the subframe is also connected to suspension parts. would've been more work to remove the subframe and then tackle these mounts.
@@projectsbyj25 You only need to lower the subframe, not remove it. There are 4 bolts that you loosen for the subframe. Remove the front mount bolt (horizontal) and then loosen or remove the 2 or 3 (don't remember how many) rear mount bolts. With the engine supported the subframe can be lowered a 4-6 inches in the front. That's how you can replace your oil pan, if it ever gets a hole in it. Subframe bolts are in the 4 corners, very easy to access.
@@dan9809 if you put it that way, i suppose that works too. I had thought you meant to remove the whole subframe just to replace the mounts and I just know that wouldve been more work than it needed to be. but yeah, i guess that method works too.
Dont do this..makes them to stiff and vibrates the crap of the dash..sounds like a good idea but i tried it its just to stiff!...i would go with just regular silicone cheap see through type???.. see for yourself..i had to do the job twice!
I tried this and my teeth almost vibrated out...to stiff i dont recomend this..save yourself time and frustration..money here is cheap but your time and frustration wasnt worth it!
