Awesome video, thank you for posting this. Can you tell me the exact part name for this. When I google it, it’s showing me the main ignition switch with new sets of keys
Here is a link to them on Rock Auto. Apologies for the late response www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mitsubishi,2003,galant,2.4l+l4,1417216,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700
when you turned the key originally did you hear the fuel pump turn on? trying to figure out if the problem on mine is this switch or something with the fuel pump since I don't hear the fuel pump at all. Thanks for the video - well done
That I'm not sure of because my ears aren't great so I can never hear any fuel pump I have tried to lol. But I would assume it should start going in accessory and accessory on mine worked fine, I only had an issue with start. Actually recently I had to install a starter button because the ignition switch I did in this video crapped out again lol
Hi. My 2004 outlander has been doing this for a month.I assumed it was the key lock cylinder worn out since i had to move the key around to get it to start.now after seeing your video im not sure.How did you determine it was the electrical switch and not the lock cylinder?
Honestly I just googled it haha. It did fix it for months but just recently it has started again. Basically I just looked up what it means if you have to jiggle the key in the on position for it to start and it came up mostly saying that's what I had to replace so I did.
So I believe the way it works is it simply is turned by the key so you will be fine to use the regular key still. It's like replacing your phone charger cable and not the brick. The signal is still sent and it all works fine.
the screw wasn't a problem it was disconnecting the electrical connectors on the barrel that have been a huge headache, is there an easier way of separating them? The big connector was fine but it was the smaller connector that I'm having issues with, help anyone out there
@@cactar4minecraft yeah the small connector sits on the chassis of the barrel, there is a grove either side where technically it should just slide forward and out, took me 10 minutes to get to this step and now 12 hours trying to slide the connector off the chassis without breaking any wires, cheers anyway
slide top (small) connector off rails-use flat screwdriver to push back. then remove the 2 t-15 screws, then pull switch out of socket. now you have easy access to back of large connector to push on tab.
It wouldn't click it just wouldn't even make a sound so the switch wasn't activating and telling the started to turn. So I had to juggle the key while starting it to get it to turn over. But to this day it starts up just fine with the new switch.
