2004-2014 Ford F-150 4X4 Clicking Humming: Vacuum Hub Replacement 

So glad I came across your videos. I had this problem a few year ago on my 2006 f150. The noise would come and go. I spoke with my mechanic and he kept saying that it was the bearing and I begged to differ. I finally carried my vehicle to him and this is what the problem turned out to be. It costed me dearly for the parts and labor. Now I have this problem again but on the opposite wheel. After watching your video I think I’m gonna try and tackle it myself this time. I plan on replacing both to be on the safe side. After doing my research and running down the parts I’m looking at saving over $500. I just want to say thanks for sharing your knowledge on auto repairs. You explain things very well.

My mom has had this problem on her 4x4 2007 ford expedition for about a year and a half now. We went to several mechanics and they never could diagnose the issue. I am beyond confident that you are correct. Smooth driving in 2WD and WHAM there goes that rattling. Now we will get the problem all taken care of because now know what has to be done. Thank bro for the helpful video. You are a lifesaver!

As usual, the greatest Ford how-to videos ever! Made changing out my IWEs pretty painless on my 2012 Expedition. I was getting a low hum and also very faint noise like he demonstrates at low speeds. Sooooo much quieter now! Thanks man!

I changed mine today. Fast and Easy. There is a coupe videos on here using different methods. This to me is defiantly the best. Great Video.

This video made swapping an iwe on a 2014 f150 a breeze. Your channel is my go to for tackling projects that I otherwise may not have the confidence to do on my own, the first time. I can’t thank you enough for sharing your knowledge and experience with the public. I sure hope RU-vid takes care of ya! Happy new year!

From one technician to another a big Thanks for your videos!!!!! I'm a factory trained GM Tech and bought my first ford for sh*ts and giggles. Well I drove home for Xmas which was almost 5000km across Canada and in the middle of a snow storm in -50 degree Celsius weather this god awful 4wd system crapped out. 3 am in a Truck stop parking lot I found myself watching your informative videos and diagnosed the problem as the solenoid which caused my IWE actuator to chew itself apart along with the hub. Blasted into a remote northern town, grabbed an updated 4wd solenoid, two vacuum check valves, an IWE and a hub, and slammed them in and in less than an hour I was back in 4wd action blasting through the inclement weather. I had never encountered the Ford vacuum 4wd system and your videos saved me a ton of time diagnosing in the dark in bitter weather. Love my truck but I will hate this 4wd system till the end of time LOL.... but again thank you very much for taking the time to provide these videos.

Great video, as usual! I know you wouldn't/can't recommend this, but I had issues with the IWEs and managed to remove them, clean and regrease. The gear themselves can be reversed, to provide a fresh mating surface. A little tip, if someone can't afford $120/EA. 👍😁 Thanks again for all your time making and sharing these videos! Cheers.

Your videos have turned me into a DIY guy. I didn't grow up with a mechanic in my family and I enjoying doing this kind of work especially when it saves me a lot of money. Thanks so much for your videos!

Thank you for this video, I took my truck in to get work done and my mechanic could not figure out, now he has. Thanks for putting this up.

Using a trans jack for a camera bipod.. proving you’re the goat mechanic

FordTechMaKuloco You're the best man, every time I have an issue with my truck I go straight to your channel

Thank you sir, I tackled this long over due issue today. I figured hours of fighting, cussing and a little blood would fill my day. After watching your video, I realized it wouldn't be so bad. I had a hour and ten minutes into the solenoid and hub change. Of course I did not have a lift and I battled a brigade of mosquitos. Again, thanks for the video.

finally went and did the fix, and watched again through the work. what a big help. thank you so much

I just did this last night. I followed your steps exactly. everything worked perfectly. It eliminated the humming noise I was experiencing along with that nasty clicking sound. thanks so much. This is the second video you have helped me with. keep them coming.

your a great teacher and you know how to show on camera what is what and how to do thanks im recomending you to my friends!!!

I watched about 5 videos on this issue. All said I needed to take the axle off by removing 6 bolts. I was lazy so I said "this guy did it" I am doing his method. I have a 2007. Jacked the truck up with a bottle Jack. Did everything he said and followed this videos sequence. I had an electric impact. Took me about 1 hr in total. Finding my tools, jacking the truck up, taking it a part and putting it back together. Putting the tire back on it. 1 hour. This method is awesome. Fixed the problem now my. 4 wheel drive works. Thanks man you are awesome

thanks for the video ... was way easier your way than some of the other ways I watched....And I didnt need a hoist... took me a total of 45 minutes to do the job on both sides.. including putting the tools away and cleaning up....... KUTOS TO YOU .....

Watched your video this morning and then went out and replaced both vacuum hubs on my 2013 Ford F-150. I followed your steps to a tee and no issues . Thank you for the step by step video.

I just got done changing both sides. Took about 2 hours. I took my time and had everything I would need ready. I was certain the drivers side was the problem, but turns out it was the passenger side. Wouldn't compress like it should and when I shook it, black mist shot out of the vacuum connection. Take his advice on changing both sides., it's spot on. Thanks for the great video!

Thank you for posting this video. I have taken my 2013 F150 lariet to my dealer twice for this problem only for them to tell me they were unable to repeat issue. The second time taking it I told them I wanted the vacuum system checked because I knew it had something to do with vacuum. All they did was told me they checked for vacuum leaks. I was about to place this up on all four wheels to video the problem but, after watching your video, I am convinced this is my problem.

Thank you so much for this video. I fixed my Ford F150 Lariat 4x4 using this video. The Midas shop here in Lincoln NE wanted to charge me 1250 dollars. I fixed it in under an hour and in only costed me 235 dollars in parts. Thanks Again for Sharing

BEST WAY TO DO IT. If your researching on how to fix this then this video is the best way. I did mine today and it was pretty easy. Other guys are disconnecting the struts and it’s not necessary. Do it just like this man shows you and it’s a easy job. 👍

Awesome video. I think this is my current problem. I started by replacing my IWE Solenoid on my 05 and the noise pops on still occasionally. After i pop it into 4x4, and then back to 2wd, it stops for a few days.. then comes back. Thoughts?

Thanks for the video! I changed my passenger side, put the new solenoid with the hood, and changed the vacuum check switch. Drove the truck for about a week and now the driver side is making noise.. Oh well, the job wasn't too bad thanks to the video. My truck has had new cam phasers, plugs, and coils, and now both vacuum hubs, solenoid, and check switch done in the last month... Hope that's it for another 100k

Thanks for the great video. I bought my 2004 several months ago and it had that sound. Brought it back to the dealer and they took it to the Ford dealer. The repair dept said the brakes were new and needed to break in. I was skeptical, but hey they are supposed to be the professionals. The sound was always intermittent. After researching it on the truck forums, found out it was the IWE's and vacuum solenoid. Of course the two month warranty expired and now I have to eat the cost. Thanks to your video it won't be so bad. Being some what mechanically inclined I will do it myself and save a bundle. Can't thank you enough.

Thanks Brian! You just saved me some money. I had this done at the dealership once before for $700. When I hear hub replacement it freaks me out. Not anymore.

I just changed a pair out. Cost of parts was $34.00 per side (2 actuators and 2 cotter pins). Bought the actuators from Amazon. I just looked and you can now get the actuators for $28.00 per. Now need to spend big bucks. They are all the same. Did the replacement in my driveway in 35 degree weather and it took 3 hours. 2 jack stands, floor jack and a few common hand tools. A 1/2 inch impact helps greatly. I did not have the remove the front drive axles from the transfer case. Very very simple. Cleaning prior to reassembly was the most difficult.

This is fantastic! I've been getting this sound for about a week and could never pinpoint where it was coming from! The buzzing is getting to the point where it's annoying and I'm sorry for the people driving next to me! It sounds like an episode of wicked tuna!

Thanks Brian, I've done this job before but it was long ago, forgot the little tricks to make it faster and easier. Friend is bringing his 04 over today to replace the actuator, now I can look smart :D

Thank you so much for taking the time to put this video on I just did both sides on my F-150 2010 went like a breeze both sides two and a half hours. My whole system checked out held vacuum, but the passenger side grease was all dried out and intermittently hanging up in 4wd cleaned everything repacked with new grease everything good to go. Working smooth. Thanks a million for the well done video.

My friends 08 F150 is making the same noise. His mechanic told him he needed 2 wheel actuators, 1 hub and new vacuum lines. Great video Thanks

I want to thank you for the way you did this mechanical work . Now I can use this in my work. Thank you. You have a excellent way of teaching, again thank you!!

Brian, Thank you for making Video on replacing IWEs (vacuum hubs), I replaced both of the IWEs today, I watched your video several times and took notes. I did exactly as you said to do. As you had mentioned, getting the ball joint hooked back up was a little of a pain however, I was able to do it by myself. Had to utilize hand tools but, it really wasn't that bad. I did it in my garage by placing my truck up on jack stands. I also went on and replaced the solenoid as well. Before I changed the IWEs, I did a vacuum check last weekend on the system and had found the passenger side unit was not holding vacuum. I figured that I would just go ahead and change out both. The only thing I have left to do is clean out the vacuum lines, they have rusty looking crud in them. I noticed this because the test vacuum hand pump (Harbor Freight Special) I used has clear tubes and it sucked alot of the crud into it. Can I disconnect the vacuum lines from the IWEs and spray brake clean into them and then blow them out with air for a compressor??

Dude, your videos help me out so much. To the point when I'm diagnosing my truck I look for your instructions. Well spoken and well explained. Thanks!

Your awesome! Just completed mine. Replaced vacuum modulator and driver wheel end. You explain very thorough and easy to understand. I rate this task a 3 on scale of 10 being hardest. Is a little cumbersome handling the (rotor and knuckle) using Jack stands and Jack being low to ground being a big dude. Defiantly doable for not a master mechanic. Thanks again!!

I had replaced my front right cv axle on a 2004 f-150 lariat as it was starting to drag. Truck has brand new struts and for the last 4 years a 3” levelling kit. I did the same procedure of dropping the outer tie rod and upper ball joint. The hub spins fine and the flange in the back where the cv axle bolts up too, spins flawlessly on its own. I seated the new cv shaft so that it was fully engaged on the spline, spun the hub and everything turned great. Then put on the 13mm axle nut to hold it in place, at 20ft/lbs. then installed the upper ball joint to the control arm. Then mounted the flange end of the cv axle to the diff flange. Once I had bolted it all together, the whole hub and cv axle assembly was binding and not turning. It only turns freely once I remove the cv axle from the flange. Left side has zero issues. Any one have issues with the cv axle binding?

Really appreciate your video, I've never fixed cars/trucks before, this was my first and with the help of your video it took me and a friend to get the vacuum hub replaced in 1 hour! We did everything as you showed and now there is no sound coming from that front wheel! Thank-you!

Appreciate the complete insight to this problem. Same issue with my 2004 Expedition. Couldn't figure out why this gear was engaged. Your a great help. Keep doing more videos. Your help is very detailed and easy to follow

This is by far the best video on the topic. Think this is what happened to my 2018 F150 4x4 XL with just 10,000 miles. I drove through a huge pond once and I think it might have gotten a bunch of water in the vacuum hub. Get a terrible metal on metal grinding sound sometimes while driving, disappears when I switch to 4WD. Headed to dealership tomorrow... hope they don't jerk me around..

YOU ARE A LIFE SAVER!!!!! That exact noise just started on my 05 tonight so now I know what parts i have replace and I now know the procedure on how to do it too!

Great narration skills, beautifully photographed and clear mechanical skill - Thanks for the help

Great video Brian, My truck was making that ratcheting noise from the drivers side hub. Did a little research and realized that it was the vacuum hub problem. I watched your video and took a few notes then bought the parts and did the job myself. Piece of cake, couldn't have done it and wouldn't even have attempted it until I saw your detailed video. You saved me a ton of money. Give me your address and I'll send you a check. Lol

This was so helpful. Perfect. I wish i had a lift and air tools so I could have been quicker. But all the instructions were spot on and now I can hear everything else that may need service. Hail to you, my friend. Chuck in NE Kansas

If someone has F-150 problems your the guy to see. Excellent video!

Brian, you are one incredible expert! I cannot thank you enough for this video and all of your others. Keep up the great work, you are helping so many people.

I'm having this exact issue right now. Just picked up my truck from the transmission shop. 2700 bucks for a rebuild and I get half way home and this happens. Can't catch a break. Thanks for the video! Does take some stress away.

Your videos are the best. Viewers make sure to check the one way - vacuum check valve - located by the solenoid (remove and blow through it (should only blow one way)) I see them fail a lot, which leads to partial application of the hub actuator (noisy) during acceleration, usually only on Drivers side. The dealer sells it as a vacuum harness for $20.00 Ford # 4L3Z-3A788-AA.

Thank you for your video. The one I just worked on ended up being rust dust in the vacuum hoses. Disconnected all the connections and blew backwards with compressed air. Worked fine after that.

Damn, this really helps explain what the F is going on in my front end. Thought it was my brakes, replaced them and several days later the dreaded grinding and catching sound came back. Low and behold it's the damn IWE hub grinding and catching. Will check my vacuum and hose lines to see if there is a problem there before replacing the IWE. Thanks!

Thank you for taking the time to make this video I was redoing the plugs on my 2004 Ford Triton 5.4 two-wheel I thought I knocked the vacuum line off on the passenger side but could not locate have the vacuum line but do not have the solenoid does a vacuum line plug into anything being a two-wheel drive greatly greatly appreciate your time

Thank you!!! All went almost step by step. Exception was my impact gun did not have enough torque to zip the ball joint nut off. Used a 13/16 wrench on the nut and locked the spindle bottom with a 10mm wrench on the end. Really really pleased (relieved) how well it went. Keep up the good work!!!

Excellent video! They just replaced one on my 2013 F150, it was making a sort of a humming dragging noise and I FINALLY got the tech to recognize it and hear it. We will see if it was the source of the noise or not tomorrow!

Want to say thanks it took me about 30mins and I did it at night in the dark with a helmet light

Thanks so much for your video. I had this problem and your video made this repair rather simple. My brother and I appreciate the detail and step by step process. Once again, thanks!

Did this repair today, great instructions as usual, much easier than removing the axle. Also had to change the vacuum servo, watched your other video on troubleshooting the system. Thanks from LI, NY.

Just wanted to say thanks! I watched the video, and you explained the exact problem I was having. I just ordered the parts, and will have the mechanic take care of it, in the next day or so. Awesome video, extremely well explained. Thanks so much!

This guy is awesome! Watched this and did it in my driveway in less than an hour.

Out of all the ways to do the replacement, this way definitely looks like the simplest. Definitely gonna give it a try!

I think this is the noise my truck is making! 165,000 miles 2005 . Thank you sir, love your videos. Subscribe of course!!

Next to God, you sir are my hero. Not quite my issue but found I had the drivers side lines came off.

Thank you so much. You have helped me fix my truck. You are a god sir. Your videos are amazing and concise, your knowledge is amazing.

thank you very much i like seeing young smart mechanics like you a good mechanic is worth their weight in gold! well done video and to the point.

So helpful. Absolutely the best explained video I’ve found! I’m going to do mine this weekend.

Thank you, what a great video tutorial you put together. Everyone don't be afraid to do this just watch the video a couple of times & follow along. He even gives you all the tools and socket sizes you'll need so no surprises. Me and a buddy did both front wheels and the solenoid in 2 hours last Friday night after work. Not bad for amateurs. Thanks again FordTechMakuloco your saving a lot of people a lot of money. Good man!

Another awesome video that explains a issue I’m having..it’s been pretty cold here for about 4 weeks, when I’m in two wheel drive my truck has been making that noise on the driver side, but when I switch it to four wheel drive, it goes away. So...once it warms up a bit I’ll have to see about replacing these, probably on both sides.

Outstanding! !! Just finished my passenger side. Doing drivers side as soon as I can get the over tightened lugs off.

Great explanation, and nice video. I will be checking my vacuum lines on the front of my 2011 F150. I am hearing the "hum", in cold weather especially, which goes away when I select 4wd. I also started hearing that grinding/scraping sound when turning left.

On my 04 I couldn’t go a year on a set. I took every rubber line from the engine to the IWE’s and cleaned w soap and water. Then I blew soapy water and cleaned out all the hardlines. Once reassembled w the last set of 6 or 7 sets of IWE’s I took it upon myself to do said work. To complete my work I put small filters on the vent lines off the IWE’s and ran the truck wout problems for almost 300000kilometers until I wrecked the truck.

Thanks to these video ,I save big money,I take my expedition with the same problem, to a different mechanics, and all of them said ,to changed the 4x4 transfer case, just before I order the transfer case I found these video and problem solve, thanks ,

I just have 1 question do you like fords? I’m a ford guy and I know all brands have there issues. I’ve watched hundreds of your videos i love them even tho I haven’t had any of the major issues that you’ve fixed on here it’s good to know all these things just in case ! Thank you so much for all the information!

Thank you so much,Thanks to your video I was able to fixed my truck and save some money 😊.but my hub assembly was also bad I had to replace it to...thank you!

You did a really good job with this video, it looks like it is exactly what i need to do. Thanks for making this video and putting the products in the description below. Really well done. Can't wait to get this done this weekend.

Excellent & Very educational Video! Now I have to shop for the best price on vacuum hubs and get the job done myself.

I almost miss my F150.... I learned a lot about repairs.

Finally!!!!I find a video that helps with my 4WD issues. Great video, I changed the 4WD actuator and my 4WD was still not working now I know to change the solenoid thanks...

Is anything on Ford not Junk? You must make a great living working on this Junk. You definitely are a Master Mechanic.

When doing this I found that one of my IWEs was shot. The driver-side IWE was no longer "springy" and wouldn't fully retract or fully engage - even though I had a good vacuum. I had replaced the check valve and solenoid (hoping the cheaper fix was the cause) but it wasn't until I got both IWEs out that I realized the one was definitely kaput. At any rate, I replaced them with the IWE delete kit because I was tired of dealing with this overly complicated system for the sake of a little fuel efficiency.

I have a 2005 f 150 lariat. sub for life.. thank you for your videos

Thanks for this video,it was as easy to change my vacuum hubs as you made it look in this video

Great instructional video. My 2007 Ford 150 made noise from 4 WD hubs. Checked all vacuum as instructed. The vacuum does not shut off when switched into 4 WD. It should. Anyway I am replacing both hub assemblies and actuators for the 2nd time in a couple months. Cant tell if vacuum is shutting down when driving in 2 WD? Something is killing the hub gears and actuator gears. Once I fix it this time I am going to get rid of it. I have had it with Ford 4 WD technology or lack of it.

Thank you for this video. It was good to be walked through the repair step by step.

Going to do mine tomorrow along with Hub bearing replacement.

Just finished up this job. Thanks for the step by step!

This was an excellent video, very thorough. Thanks for posting.

Great Video! Very well done. You explained everything very well, good lighting and camera work. Appreciate it!

Excellent video and instructions! Great job!

Excellent video. I don’t believe there would ever be any worry about you doing a “hack job”. Liked and subbed.

04 F150 5.4xlt 4x4. new mode select switch and new transfer case motor. when the switch is turned to 4H, there is a clicking noise at the relay in the drivers side engine compartment. the manual labels these as 4x4cw and ccw relays. It will engage sometimes but does not most of the time.

Your the best brother. You explain everything. Keep up the good work

Great video, though my ball joints were so stuck that hamering didnt work so I had to use a press kit to get them out. Besides that it was pretty smooth sailing

Great video and easy step by step instructions! I replaced mine and the seals were shot on it. Now, however it is still "growling" but only when I am getting into the gas to accelerate, as soon as I let off the gas the grinding goes away. I replaced the solenoid, no luck. I checked the vacuum on mine compared to my father in laws 06 and it feels about the same. Not sure if i missed something in installing it?!

Great video. Excellent job of making all of the steps very clear. I have the noise only when I'm accelerating or when climbing a hill, etc. Noise disappears when I engage 4x4. No noise when the wheel is lifted and spun by hand as you did in the video. All the vacuum is working as it should & the newer style of solenoid cover has been installed. Should I suspect the solenoid or failed hubs? Both? Passenger side started to make the same noise about a day after the drivers side. I'm not sure of the next step in troubleshooting & would appreciate the help. Thanks in advance.

Thank you so much for posting this! This video helped me to identify the bad part by symptom, name the part correctly for ordering and helped me step by step to install it in 90 minutes from jack stands up to jack stands down. Much appreciated! Subscribed!

Even with a downward pressure on the upper control arm had a very hard time getting the upper ball joint apart and then getting it to tighten back up when I reassembled same thing with the tie rod end it turns out at least on 2006 that a 10 mm socket will fit the end of the studs on the upper ball joint and the tie rod end you use that in conjunction with a 7/8 combination wrench or a 21 mm combination wrench or a ratcheting 21 mm box wrench and that’s how you get it tightened the impact sockets at least on the older Tierod End And upper ball joint would not tighten no matter what I tried. Once I use the 10 mm socket with a quarter inch ratchet And the combination of the box wrench I was golden after that I had to cut the nut off the upper ball joint with a nut splitter and while replacing both of the nuts is a must I’m not so sure using the blue Loctite a good idea because loctite will attack plastic I personally think using an anti-seizing compound or red high temp wheel bearing grease is better on the Threads this way you have a better chance of getting it apart the next time. I had a similar experience on the end link bushings on the same truck on the lower one that goes thru the control arm same thing you need to put a combination or or box wrench from underneath the control arm and then hold it with a 10 mm wrench on the stage and tighten down the bottom wheel just keeps spinning and it won’t tighten . Other than that video is right on everything else and it was extremely helpful I think before 2006 they used to use the castle nut with the cotter pins on those I would say to use Loctite because they don’t have any plastic inside the nuts

Excellent video, I found it much easier than another video where he had you pull the entire halfshaft. I only did the solenoid and the driver side actuator as that was where the noise was coming from, everything appears to be working with no noise. I don't know how water could have only gotten into one side. I guess I'll find out soon if the passenger side was damaged. Sincere thanks for the videos!

Great video and info... I had this problem kick my butt many yrs ago cause I didn't know the system only to find out the check valve was bad...

When it comes to the ford 5.4 and ecoboot engines (trucks) he is the go to guy, know a good mechanic, but not too many parts guys lol, 😅 Thanks!

Great Video. Extremely well explained. My 09 150 started making this noise for the last two days. Goes away when the 4 wheel drive is engaged comes back on on 2 wheel drive intermittently. Has happened about approx 10- 15 time so far. Do i need to change the hubs or just replacing the solenoid will do? Thanks again great video.

That upper ball joint nut spinning is a nightmare. However, a good prybar between the strut and the ball joint compressing it hard will help spin that nut off the bolt with an air tool.

My 2011 F-150 transmission has been slipping and shuddering when shifting into 5th or 6th gear. I took it to the local repair shop and asked them to flush the transmission. They refused to do anything to the transmission, and they told me it was the vacuum hubs failing and causing the issue. They replaced the vacuum hubs, and guess what.....transmission still doing the same exact thing. So....I changed the filter and fluid myself, and guess what...... no more transmission issues.