I had already spent hundreds on new spark plugs, coils, air filter, throttle body and new fuel injectors and kept my truck kept stalling at every red light. I finally have up and was about to pay hundreds to a mechanic to look into it. Glad I came across this video. This fixed my stalling problem and the codes were cleared. It's been over 100 miles and hasn't came on. It was a pain in the a** connecting the hose, but totally worth it! Thank so much for this video!! Literally saved my hundreds of dollars. 🙏🙏🙏
Thanks man!!!! It fixed my problem and now my truck is running like a champ again... all this work simply because I let off the key a second too early while cranking up 🤦🏾♂️... thanks again!!
You rule man! Was stumped for a while and thought I needed new coils and plugs or something. Watched this and fixed it like one minute later. All the power is back!
@@andyslawnsheretoserveyou2041 I spent a whole day doing them with TONS of throttle body cleaner. Happy to report I didn’t break any! Was nerve racking though
Our '03 5.4 has been giving us lean codes off and on for years. As soon as I thought I fixed it, something else would go wrong, often it is a vacuum line (or more specifically, dry rotted rubber or plastic connectors) This time I just figured I'd clean the MAF sensor by the air filter. $12 can of CRC MAF cleaner and about 5 mins and boom, fuel trim numbers WAY down on both banks! Bank 1 is still running more lean than I'd like (LTFT pushing 17%) but not enough to trigger a fault. Gonna do a smoke test this week to find any more leaks or bad seals.
follow two red plastic vacuum lines that go to the back of the intake. stick your hand between intake and firewall and plug that line back in. both red lines will be plugged in together. this happened twice, first time i had to buy a camera from harbor freight to find where it went. second time it happened, i found it by touch in 1 minute. plugged back in and reset codes and done. i had to take off top intake and passenger side fuel rail to be able to stick hand behind firewall. i had to replace all 4 o rings on injectors as well.
I’m looking at this video and the hose you’re referring to on my truck (same), the opposite side is not connected to anything. In fact, in this video, I can see the red wire under the ECM. On my truck, this is the same wire. Any suggestions?
I have the same problem with my Lincoln I got one in the middle of the intake manifold the lights to pop the little bow off and one from the EKG that goes all the way behind it likes to slide off it's really hard to get your hands in there you got to get real crafty with it I use chopsticks I remember and that really helped
Thanks a million man my truck just started doing that today I spent money on the master air flow sensor and everything a hour ago then seen this online and looked and sure enough it's off now to try and put it back in thanks again
Thank you. This was the same problem with my 04f150. I had to move the fuel rail. Just 2 bolts, to sqweeze my hand back behind the motor and fire wall and push the hose back in. Thanks for this video. Great help
Thankfully mine did not break once taking them off. My mechanic just soaked them up then spun them off real quick. Put in COPs a few months after. That was a few years back. I just got the timing job(phasers, vct solenoids, chains/tensioners and new upgraded oil pump) now I'm hoping this vacuum hose is my source of rough idle and rumbling during accel. Already swapped the MAF sensor and purge valve/evap hose.
@@cameronlegrand7365 my issue is at the COPs. The threaded part of the valve cover where the screw holding on to the COPs goes into have broken in many spots. So when my truck hits a rough spot or bump, the COPs lift up and gives it the rattle. All I do to fix it for now is push down on the four COPs on the left side of the engine to seat them completely. But I'll have to swap out the valve covers to completely solve the issue.
Thanks for the video where does the other end of that line hook up to would greatly appreciate it if you have a picture or video I see it goes behind the fuse box by the but pastor I'm stumped for the moment
I have that same issue but however my red vaccum line is connected to the break poster does it go from there to the manifold? I have no other vaccum line to that block that you showed on driver side front
@@KollynJ its defenitely a temporary thing, try replacing the valve cover gaskets, they seem to dry up and shrink, causing the air leaks which cause these codes
The line that comes out from the firewall , that goes behind the battery. Is that vacuum box only for 4 ×4? Because mine doesn't have a vacuum box and the line is just plugged
Brian P so that red line have 2 lines run from it. The big end goes down to the manifold intake on the passenger side. One line run to the fuel rail sensor. Where do the other line run to? Look like it runs to 4x4 IWE but if you dont have 4x4 where do you hook the line up to or plug it?
I did it twice, the first time seemed easy compared to the second time. The second time I did bend the fuel rail to get my mitt back there. I just traded in the truck and got $6k for a new 2018 Highlander. I'm sure my new problems are just beginning!
I'm getting lean codes and iv replaced everything but fuel pump. Gonna try to squeeze my big ol hand in there when I get home. How far down do you think it is? 6"? 10"? Your response would be greatly appreciated
Hey man, you know the hose with that green port (schrader valve) on the FUEL VAPOR CANISTER PURGE VALVE with the screw cap? I've been searching everywhere for the part number for our 5.4 and can't find it anywhere. Do you know what the P/N is? I have to replace all of my evap hoses due to the same DTCs and the hoses are very bad now. Thanks!
Can u please show where the red hose conect in the pasanger side i got the same hoses but the passenger side dont conec to nowhere and just got a black plug in the end please send inf where conects
I own the same truck (2004 F150 5.4L) and i too have those two lean codes. I too think its a vaccum leak. I will try to check mine today or tomorrow and hopefully will video record it n also upload to youtube.
Having the same issue right now did a smoke test on my 2004 f150 had smoke come from the back side of intake manifold try too put that pipe back on but couldn’t do it very tight back there I even took the the air box off but still couldn’t get it what a nightmare
Bummer, I was hoping someone knew where to cut a hole under the dashboard to access this from the inside of the truck. I jump up on the engine about once a month and push the fitting just to make sure it's not slowly working it's way loose again. Good luck
mick cooney same problem here. I changed throttle body assembly. Coils, sparks those hoses i dont have a clue were they come from but i know one of them is round and the other is an elbow like one.
Edgardo Castrodad I fixed mine my vapor canister solenoid was not getting power running great now I had too take my hole intake manifold off I changed the gasket while had that off truck running great now no issue
@@mickcooney4479 Hi Mick. Is this the best way ? Take the driver side wheel off and then reach up in there? Did you put any new non fatigued rubber parts in to stop the problem?
The code p0174 pops up, ots been there for a week I have been driving the vehicle, when I woke up this morning, starts the truck the engine light was gone. But still feeling the vibration form the engine, what can be the problem here, do i need to worry
I sold the truck shortly after I made this video. @ralphwhitaker . The truck idled so bad that the only way I could drive it was to keep a foot on the break and gas simultaneously. Try the process I described in the video. When you reach down there you’ll either feel a loose hose or not!
I'm having the same problem but if you're facing the truck, to the left I have another red line just like that one on the right that came off and I have no idea where it goes do you have a clue
This is the same line, I just looked on my truck and it goes down behind where I plugged mine in behind the firewall and over to the battery. I googled "2004 f150 vacuum reservoir behind battery" and go to images you should see where it connects. You may need to remove the battery to see it, I've never done this so not sure. I do know for sure that if you find it and reconnect you will fix the issue!
I'm going to say about10-12 inches down, if you take a mirror and a head flashlight and get on top of the engine (I used a flattened cardboard box to lay on my stomach) you can see it. Mine did come off again and I had a motherfer time getting it back on the second time. I may have had a little luck the first time because the female side was right in front of male so I just had to push it back on. The second time I pulled it out to see it and that made it a lot harder!!!
undistribearnings mine was already pulled out as I just purchased this truck used . I tried to get a light and a mirror but it’s hard to see exactly where it is . I’m getting a inspector camera tomorrow and hopefully I’ll get it back on , just wish I knew exactly where it plugs in
I would love to help, my truck is in a different state and I won't be back to see it until may-june 2018. Otherwise I would video the location for you. It is roughly in the center between the battery and the throttle body. Almost in line with the fuel rail on the battery side.
It's just to the left of center about 12 inches down. I've only seen mine when I removed the intake manifold. Not sure how original poster got to it with removing anything. Look up a picture of the intake manifold so that you can get an idea as to where it is.
Friggin rights, gunna check that tomorrow when i check for incjectors being loose enough that the bottom o ring is causing the vacuume leak noise while accelerating.
Hey thanks brother I really appreciate your video that was the problem with mine I just put a brand new motor in my 2000 Ford f150 and that back vacuum line blew off great video brother my trucks been sitting for a couple months because I thought it blew a hole in the intake manifold because it backfired so I thought it blew through that plastic manifold but it was that vacuum line excellent video
If you can find the vacuum hose you should be able to follow it down with your hand. It doesn't move far from where it plugs in when it falls off. You really can't see it without climbing up there on the engine with flashlight and mirror. You don't need to see it to push it back on.
Yes, no way to do it from under. I did it 3 times. You could also cut a hole on the firewall from inside the truck I believe. Not sure exactly where. which is why I didn’t do that. I sold the truck so can’t be of much help with location now.
Mines a 05 XLT Ford Expedition 5.4L and can't find the PCV Valve to save my life no videos on the damn thing it sucks but if I do find it I will make a video
@@dutchmasteret pretty sure your driver side valve cover has a built in pcv valve . So when you wanna replace the pcv you have to replace the whole damn valve cover . I'd like to kick the engineers in the nuts for a solid week for this piss poor design.
That's not the vacuum host that falls off. The large hose from that goes from the brake booster to the back of the intake manifold has an elbow on it that falls of prior to 06 (when Ford added a clamp). It's a bitch to get to, and if you don't have skinny arms/hands/wrists, you'll have to have your wife or kid do it. I had to have my wife do it because my skinny arms weren't skinny enough!
