7 years later, still helping people like myself take on projects like these that initially seem like too much to handle. Just replaced all my engine mounts, and I can’t thank you enough for this video.
First of all I want to thank Jamnjar very much for this video. Without it I would have never been brave enough to complete this on my own. This video was tremendously helpful. I just completed replacing the 5 motor mounts on my 2005 Touring Odyssey this weekend. I was having terrible engine shaking that would occur at speeds between 55 and above. It felt like the engine was about the fall off the van. I imagine it took me about 8 hours total taking my time and I did it all by myself. I second what Jim said below that it is not for the faint of heart. I just wanted to add a few tips for those who want to take on this job to make life easier and save some time with some shortcuts. I did this whole job with only the front of the van on jack stands with both front wheels taken off. When removing the rear mount I found it easier to use a new socket wrench I just purchased with an extendible handle from Harbor Freight Tools. The handle can extend from approximately 8" to maybe 12" which can allow you to get more pull torque when possible. It is a tight fit to get your wrench in the area to loosen the 4 rear mount bolts from the aluminum mount that is sits on. Having the adjustable handle allows you to customize your handle length to get the maximum pull with the space that you have underneath the van. You'll find that there is one last bolt that is a bear to get loose. It is the on passenger side toward the front of the van. The best way to get this bolt loose is to use the extendible socket wrench and access it from the passenger side wheel well. As for the one bolt that is blocked by the Y-Pipe I loosened it with a long handled #14 combination wrench to break it free then used a newer type ratcheting end combination wrench to unbolt it and have it just lay on top of the Y-Pipe. I didn't bother using a socket wrench because I didn't see how I could push the Y-Pipe over enough to use one. Like Jamanajar stated it does not have to be totally taken off. The bolt only has to be free from the aluminum mount and can just sit there. When replacing the rear mount with the new mount I found it very difficult to get the new mount in place with the rubber shroud around it. For better or worse I cut it off and mounted it without it. I did cut it in a way that it could still be used and put back on if need be in the future. You DO NOT have to remove the AIR Box NOR the BATTERY TRAY to remove the front motor mount near the radiator. Just simply take the battery out and save yourself some time and frustration by unhooking the top radiator hose (a small amount of antifreeze will spill), moving it out of the way and unscrewing two wire bundles in the way so you can pull the front mount straight up out of the engine. When replacing the passenger side mount you can also save time by JUST REMOVING the ECU itself and NOT the whole ECU mount. It is just two bolts holding the ECU to the mount. You will still have plenty of space to get to the passenger side mount. One last note is that at no time did I ever need to pull off the front air dam so I didn't need to buy or replace any of those clips. I got the set of 5 mounts off of ebay for $259.00 shipped from this vendor: www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-Honda-Odyssey-3-5L-Touring-EX-L-Engine-Motor-Trans-Mount-Set-5PCS-/271217801873?fits=Submodel%3ATouring|Model%3AOdyssey&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f25d73a91 They have a 5yr warranty. I'm not sure how well they'll last but I took a chance. So far so good though.
Best engine mounts replacement video on RU-vid. I own a 2005 Kia Sedona EX and have been looking for drawings, mount location information and watching one mount change video after another. Anything that has to do with Kia vehicles is pretty sparse, but, with you guys repairing a mini van and actually doing all 5 mounts is a first. I especially appreciate the way you showed how these parts are oriented to other components before you reinstalled them. Great video. Thanks, Tom
Thanks again for the great video. A friend who is a professional mechanic replaced these with some minimal assistance from myself at his shop with a lift and good air tools with a mind boggling array of extensions in about three hours. This was his first time doing this particular repair. My car is a 2006 EX-L with 225k miles. My symptoms were low frequency vibration at idle, and on downshifting to a stop as well as low frequency vibration in ECO mode. I opted to try the DEA mounts at $100 and $140 over the Honda mounts that I could not find for less than $500 each. When we replaced them, the rear mount was clearly in sad shape. The rest were not visibly bad. All the bothersome vibrations have resolved and the car is a dream to drive now. Time will tell if the DEA mounts hold up, but I am very satisfied with the results of the repair.
Nice! I'm glad to hear the video helped. I'm totally jealous you had access to a lift! That would have sped the job up! So far after 6months or so my DEA mounts have held up. Let me know how they hold up for you.
I just did the rear mount on an 05 EXL. We had vibrations only felt and heard from the cabin and when the ECO kicked in the van shook or "droaned." It was actually a pretty easy job. I've done cv joints, ball joints, struts, brakes, etc but never anything like this. You do not have to do any work from the top of the motor. I had a short flex ratchet that accessed everything w enough force to break them free. No breaker bar needed. Impact is your friend on 3/4 bottom bolts to the mount the motor mount sits on. The 4th you'll need a wrench, the hanger for the exhaust won't let you get to it w a socket. It won't completely come out but it'll free up from the mount and allow you to remove it. The two nuts that hold the rubber boot and bracket on to the mount can be removed once it's out of the car. Liquid wrench everything a day before hand. Don't go crazy, a little squirt will do for each. I bought the Beck/Arnley rear mount from Rockauto.com for $115.
The video was a great help. I found that both transmission mounts were Broken or missing bolts and the passenger side mount has also broken. After replacing all 5 mounts the van does run smoother, BUT the warbling/ or shaking in the transmission still happens between 40-65 MPH. I have read some online that several years of Van EX-L and touring models ranging from 2005 to 2014 have the shaking issue right off the show room floor. Including a 2014 Odyssey.
Did all of mine a couple months ago using your video as my guide. Not easy. Not for the faint of heart. Did it by myself and it took all weekend. Couldn't have done it without you guys! thanks. I would like you to address however, how you removed one of the mounting bolts blocked by the EXHAUST Y BLOCKING THE REAR MOUNT. You didn't address this in the vid and I think i know why LOL: I had to "push" it to the passenger side while maneuvring my socket in place (rather risky since i figured i would break the pipes/connections). I BARELY got my socket in there. Getting the Y removed itself was NOT an option since it was so rusted on. So perhaps you guys have a better way. Just figured I'd share my half-fast method. Thanks again though. Very proud of myself -- and the dealer was super impressed. No one in my town has attempted this on their own I am pretty sure!!
On a 2005-2007 Odyssey you do not have to remove or even loosen the exhaust. Earlier (pre 2005) HAD to remove the Y-Pipe. The lower bolt you are referring to doesn't have to be removed all the way, you can loosen it then let it sit on the Y pipe while you remove the lower bracket. I'm glad to hear this video helped!
Great video i have done this 3 time on my odyssey exl 183k about to doit again going to use ex/lx mounts and disable the vcm w vcmtuner to many headaches, also aftermarket active mount are junk the last 1to 2 years so I’m going this route w oem mounts and the barcket to switch rear mount will try to do a video. Thanks
Honda's service manual wants people to remove the 17 mm bolts that hold the top cover of the rear mount and remove that first to make room for the actual mount to come out. Those bolts quite hard are to get too reach, however, even from the top. Removing the lower mount bolts and sliding it out of the way is much easier. Thanks for posting.
I replaced with motor king active mounts 2007 exl. I have regretted that choice terribly over the last year. The vibration is worse and the noise is maddening. They gave some money back and let me keep them on the vehicle. I didnt want to put the old oem ones back on and have to do the job three times. I started at 8 in the morning and was done by 3:30. It makes me so mad i dont even like riding in the van. Good news is i just got my taxes back and have the oem im waiting to install. Please dont do what i did and buy king mounts they made the problem 10 times worse. I just installed the Honda OEM mounts today and I'm so thankful, no noise and no vibration
Thank you Jamnajar. Here is a copy of the review I just posted on Amazon for the DEA parts: I purchased the full set of DEA engine mounts for our 06 Honda Odyssey EXL. I had replaced the rear mount with an OEM Honda unit 4 years ago (at around 90k miles). The van has 200k mile on it now, and while the original transmission shutter was just starting to come back, there was a lot of vibration through the steering wheel due to the failed passenger side and under-the-transmission mounts. This time, I used Jamnajar's excellent RU-vid video on how they replaced all 5 mounts on their 06 Odyssey. It took me roughly 5 hours to do, and it requires many different combinations of socket extensions and wigglers. My notes for these parts and for Jamnajar's video: 1. On the rear mount, I was able to replace it without removing the solid metal base that mounts between the mount and the lower crossmember; I just removed the 4 bolts that connect the mount to the metal base (of course after removing the 2 bolts holding the shield on, removing the shield and removing the bolt that holds the mount to the engine). 2. On the front transmission mount, I did have trouble getting the mounting bolt holes to align with the holes in the transmission. I did not have to redrill or enlarge the holes as one reviewer stated; I was able to twist the mount and start each of the bolts, and as I snugged down the bolts, there was some flex in the rubber part of the mount, so it all came together without the bolts being too hard to thread-in/tighten. It is not an exact fit, but I was satisfied enough to leave it on there (the OEM mount fell into 2 pieces when I took it off). 3. For the rear transmission mount (remember that I replaced this one 5 years ago with OEM), I was able to get the mount installed (troublesome just like it was 5 years ago). But, when the car is idling, there is a vibration and humming noise that comes from this mount. It is only from the rear mount, not the front, and it only does it at idle, and it sometimes goes away if the idle changes for example when the AC kicks on. I am guessing that the mount has some type of idle loop where the hydraulic piston is fluttering back and forth at this low rpm speed (like perhaps the engineer/designer should have used some hysteresis to account for the low idle speed and shut-off the hydraulics). Overall, the drive-time ride is excellent and has brought the Odyssey's handling back to near-new state. Note that we replaced the CV axles, lower control arms, strut and spring assemblies and stabilizer links about a year ago, so those of course contribute to the good handling at this high mileage. For the price, I recommend using these parts. I will update my review if the longevity of the parts changes my mind.
+naveeniyengar The DEA mounts have so far held up very well. Ride is still smooth. The noise from the rear mount appears to have softened and become less loud. To me, its very acceptable now. 2 thumbs up for the price of the DEA mounts.
Brad, sadly the DEA rear mount appears to be starting to fail. It is producing a lot of noise at idle, and some shudder is beginning to occur during shifting. We put almost 75k miles on it though. I'll definitely be going back to a Honda part for the rear active mount. I'll order online from one of the Honda parts places. Most of them are dealerships that are trying to move parts and do a better volume.
Thanks for the video! I did it without too much difficulty. Here are my notes: First, know your vehicle exactly. I had considerable difficulty getting the right parts. The Honda OwnerLink site says 2006 Odyssey EX with Leather, so it is an EXL. But there are evidently at least two flavors of EXL most easily distinguished by the exact shape of the transmission mounts. Either take off the wheel and look at them, or use your VIN to get the exploded part diagram online from Honda. The larger transmission mount parts are a reflection of one another between the two models. You *will* have to remove the air deflector (dam) from the bottom to get the battery shelf out, and it will make accessing the front mount easier. Most of the hardware holding my air dam on was missing or destroyed and the dealer didn't have the $42 bag o' clips in stock. I was able to substitute some clips for the radiator cover for a few of the spots and cable ties for others. I would encourage using the Honda clips. All of my bolts were seized furiously. We broke two 3/8" swivels. We used 1/2" swivel with extensions as shown, a breaker bar, and the pipe from the jack for extra leverage. Rear required a 3" extension and swivel at the bottom of the long bar for several parts on the rear mount. The rear mount took 2 hours of two people, one under, one over and a little bit of solo time before and after. It was not necessary to remove the Y pipe or the block on which the rear mount rests. The shroud came off first, then the mount. It was not necessary to loosen the transmission mounts.
Jamnajar, thank you very much for recording this video. I just had to change the rear mount on a 2007 Odyssey EXL, and this video was very helpful. Your effort was definitely worth it for me!
I did front engine replacement, it took me 1.5 hours, I didn't make that huge clear! I removed the spark coil, oil cap, o2 sensor cable with neutral cable, the battery and cooling fan, that's all. It was perfect comfortable access to remove and install the new.
Thanks for the video. We did it in about 6/hrs. Quite a process, but your help made it so much easier. It was for my daughters Odessey and the dealer quoted her $1300 to replace them all. It helps to cut away the excess rubber flab on the rear one to more easily insert the main single bolt.
You have the same laser pointer and Ridgid impact driver as me! I have to do this on a 2007 Acura MDX soon. I think the procedure will be pretty similar.
Rock Auto has a Dea MK5506 motor mount kit for 2005 up 3rd gen Odysseys for 278 bucks. It includes all 5 mounts. Its for the EX-L on up with the I-Vtec motor(like the ones he replaced above). Your shipping cost varies....
Great Video Very Helpful I purchase an 2005 for an awesome price but needs motor mounts and cv axles and a full tune up so this will help me a ton thanks for making it.
Great video, thank you! I was replacing the front and side mount and was good until I tried to get the front mount out of the vehicle. I found your video and it showed I had to remove the battery tray. I did and it came right out. I will mention that it was not necessary to remove the airbox for the front mount. Maybe it's needed for one of the other mounts? I completed the two mounts for $80ish! DEA brand from RockAuto.
Hi Dave! I'm glad the video helped, I believe you could leave the airbox in place, I removed it because it allows for easier access to the battery tray bolts, but I don't think you *have to remove it. Thanks for the feedback!
Rear engine mount replacement - Some notes that may help since the video doesn’t go into too much detail on this: The bottom 4 screws are trivial. Not positive they need to be taken out. The one next to the exhaust can hopefully be loosened with a wrench. Just turn it back until it hits the exhaust, this will clear the block. The hardest part are the 4 screws on top of the block, and the 2 nuts on the side that mount the bracket. It is VERY tight to get to these with sockets from above the engine, but loosening with sockets or wrenches from below seems hopeless. I was by myself, and it took a long time and many times of getting under car / above engine to loosen these 6 screws. A second person will make a huge difference. Key is to get the right combination of extensions in place. To save you some experimentation: For the 2 bracket nuts: 17mm socket - U-joint - 10” extension - 5” extension - ratchet. For the rear two bolts: 14mm socket - 3” extension - U-joint - 20” extension - ratchet. Front 2 bolts: 14mm socket - 6” extension - U-joint - 10” extension - 5” extension. For visualization, I found it helps to get just behind the front wheels where you get a better look at the top nuts / bolts compared to laying below. Reassembly: getting the 4 top bolts in place was challenging since you don’t see if / how the bolts align. Keep the center engine mount bolt very loose so you can easily adjust, and maybe use short screwdrivers etc. in two open mounting holes to align. Overall, this took a whopping 4 hours including a trip to pepboys to get an extra extension. Most of the time was spent trying to engage the top 6 nuts / bolts. Doing it a second time, with another person may be an hour and a half. I only replaced the rear mount not the other 4. This one was $490 on Amazon; the front one would be $460, the other (non-active) ones are much cheaper. The part number on listed here are for the much cheaper knockoff. The Honda OEM is the only one which has the active control, see first review here: www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-50810-SHJ-305-Engine-Assembly/dp/B00BFDHIW4/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41TYSiPu1uL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=1NPSHZYAZPYFYTHS9S7Z Someone recommended doing them all at the same time otherwise the old ones will destroy the new one. Don’t know if I believe it so I’ll wait and see. Changing it made a world of difference - previously, when VCM kicked in, there was a lot of vibration, now you can barely tell. So in the end, it was worth it. Good luck!
Josef, Thanks for the feedback. The front and rear mounts I have listed in the description are 'active mounts' IE the computer controls them the same as OEM mounts (they even have the same electrical plugs). They are significantly cheaper vs OEM Honda mounts. My van had it's original mounts changed under warranty at 45K. The second set of Honda OEM mounts blew at 80K which is when I decided to change them to DEA mounts. I do think the OEM Honda mounts are better, but these DEA mounts have worked well for me: so far I have 2.5 years and am now at 105K (25K miles with no issues).
My DEA mounts have failed after around 18 months of hilly city driving. The engine is moving all over with a clear clunk and the culprit seems to be the big front and rear mounts. After a cost benefit analysis in my 240k mile car, I am going to do the same thing again because I can not stomach the $2300 Honda wants for OE installed.
@ adolfo, I did notice a noise coming from the active rear mount a couple days later. I put the front end on blocks and had my wife put the van into gear while I reached up and unplugged the electrical wires into the mount, and found the mount itself is making a humming noise! I have yet to find anyone in the online forums that talks about this issue, in frustration I plugged the old mount into the electrical cable and it was making the same noise. So I'm thinking something in the computer might need to get reset after changing the mounts. Once I confirm my suspicions i'll update this video.
There is something you have to clear in the computer. It's under the Honda advanced section on the scanner. It throws code 195-27 but doesn't trip the engine light. The code is for the actuator solenoid.
there is a website for the Pilot (same motor) that sells a device that blocks the shifting into "ECO" mode. I think it's like $90 but it stops the cylinder deactivation and you only loose 1 mpg. but what you gain is a reliable V6 that ALWAYS has full power and less repair woes. it's a win win. I will find the site and get back.
People don't "get back" with you anymore. Here you go: www.ebay.com/itm/VCMuzzler-II-to-Disable-muzzle-VCM-on-Honda-Acura-vehicles-VCM-Muzzler-delete-/172807770690
Great video!!! Im doing my again for the 3rd or 4th time This time i am installing honda oem from a EX LXmodel getting rid of the acm mounts pieces of junk , i am also installing the vcm tuner. Hopefully i can share a video.
Glad this video helped! I think the next time I'm going to do my mounts I'm going to go the same route. I'm at 140,XXX total miles so it's got to be about time.
I just replaced rear motor mount on my 06 Oddysey it was good for 1 week then the vibration came back after the eco mode come on.Did you think its a bad rear mount again or you recomend to replace the rest of the mounts? thanks in advance.Good and very helpful video
We’re you by chance getting a lot of noise up through your steering column ? I put new Kyb full strut assemblies up front and now getting this noise and shake. I did just buy some new control arms because the rear big round bushing is shot on the driver side and can see where the control arm by the bushing is hitting on the control arm. But was not near this bad before I installed the new Kyb struts up front.😊
Thank you Jamnajar professional explain my Honda Odyssey 2006 EXL have vibrations when i running up to 60 mph let me try with this options i think is this the solutions GOD Bless you.
+Jamnajar hey saw your video a lil bit to extreme for me to do what is your location and rough estimate of what it would cost to do a job like this? I have a 2005 odyssey ex myself I'm asking because I've seen the local mechanics in my town to shady to do a job like this thinking of my family. of course thank you for the vid
Hey, I need help finding mount part numbers for a 2007 Honda EXL. I tried your part list and only the first three were a match. Can you help me with the other two? Thanks.
Out-effing-standing video on the motor mounts. BTW, the way to check the rear mount is to check clearance between the engine bracket and the front rubberized lip of the mount. Here's a brief vid that shows the clearance on a good one. It's like a quarter of an inch or so. If the mount is bad, it will rest on the lip there in the front, and you may see some bulging on the back top of the mount rubber. 2005 Honda Odyssey EX-L Rear Motor Mount
I watched the video you linked before I did my mounts. The problem on my Odyssey, is that the rear mount did not collapse (which is what you are talking about) but the mount was still blown, so I don't think the clearance test is a good method to determine if the mounts need to be replaced. (though certainly if there is no clearance, it's definitely time to change them!)
i have the same problem with my 06 odyssey need to replace all 5 mount. but aftermarket mount are realy cheap compare to original. my question is after market will long for how long
The wsy i did the front mount i removed the fans. And toik out the front and the rear no need to remove the bottom bracket judt the 4 14mm and the top 17mm nuts and the 14mm that goes to the engine
Hey mate thnx fr the vid . Very thourough and tomorow I go to try and pull these from the salvage and replace the front one especially looks like its leaking oil. and the one at the salvage does not. Can I ask if all these (I have 06 touring ) Engine mounts are all oil filled?
How do the DEA motor mounts compare to the Honda OEM? I need to replace mine and figured they are worth a shot, assuming the 2 main ones are hydraulic. Also, I notice the DEA site has different part numbers for a couple of the mounts than listed here: A4558 instead of A6582, and A4557 instead of A4559. Both are listed as I-VTEC compared to VTEC. Anyway, nice video, thanks!
I'm not sure what they mean by I-VTEC, the part numbers I have listed are the ones I ordered and the ones that fit my 2006 Honda Odyssey EXL. The other ones on DEA's sit look like they mount differently. Follow up and let me know what you find out.
Can you by any chance tell me where the electrical connector from the rear mount goes to? I need to replace that section of wire and I can't get underneath to see it because of the weather where I live.
Hi, how are DEA mounts? I replaced all 5 mounts with Anchor bought it from RockAuto. Transmission mounts are much softer than original when I did your twist test. The active mounts seems to do nothing, still getting the grinding noise on ECO. I already warranted front mount (DOA - leaking fluid). Hard to believe they are $200 each. I am going to replace them all again now. If DEA being good to you, will go with that. I am undecided between DEA and Beck/Arnley.
For the folks that did this job with non-OEM mounts, any regrets? I can get all 5 OEM mounts for about $1100. My van has 176k miles and I'm certain I have been dealing with broken mounts for 50k miles.
Just did the timing belt and found the pass side mount to be totally destroyed. I had used after market about a year ago. This time I installed a Honda one. Lets see how long it lasts.
Great video. i have a 2003 odyssey. my last mount is the rear mount. it looks significantly different than the 2006. it actually looks smaller and thinner. Do you know if this mount in the 2003 can be removed without touching the Y pipe just like in your video?
Good video, with potential to be great. if cameraman knew how to zoom, hold still, and use a flashlight, and you paused a bit and went step-by-step it would be great.
hello there,i just watch your video and looks pretty awesome.i just wanna know how you remove the 4bolts connecting the bracket and the rear mount.i know you removed the first 4 long bolts from the bottom but the next 4 bolts from rear mount to bracket especially the bolt on the passenger side it's too tight,what tools did you use?hoping for your prompt answer,because i'm in the middle of dong it and it looks impossible for me to remove the bolts.thanks.
Gucci Weirdo The tools I used were covered in the beginning of the video. You might try using penetrating lube on the stuck bolts. Sometimes road salt will corrode the bolts.
I have a two wheel drive 2007 Honda Pilot I'm removing the CV axle there's a care your support bracket does that need to be removed or is there anything retaining the actual from separating it from there?
Is it because of cylinder deactivation technology on the EXL and Touring trims that contribute to the premature failures? My Camry has 122K miles on it, and none of the mounts are bad. I am thinking about getting an Odyssey, but I prefer EX trim without the silly technology.
YES, its basically Honda's band aid to try to remedy the cause from what you are calling the cylinder deactivation technology. Numerous threads on the forums of the poor design. They DO and WILL go bad. We were on vacay in CA and had an alternator emergency. Took it to the dealer and right away pitched me the "all your motor mounts are bad". Little did they know I had replaced 4 of the 5 within the year. No diagnosing, just assumed they were bad cause they know how many and often come in for that.
my cousin has a 05 odyssey with 380k miles and its on the original timing belt. very scary. but the van is so quiet youd never expect that the belt was ever changed.
great video...I'm going to attempt to change. the motor mounts on a 2005 odyssey exl. My question is...active and inactive motor mount...does it make a difference. thx
Thanks for the video, however I am stuck on the rear mount. I managed to get the 2 tranny mounts changed no problem. On the rear mount I was able to get it and the bracket out, pulled the shroud off and put it on the new one, installed the bolt on the new one, but I cannot for the life of me get that bracket back in underneath it. The new mount is very tight and there is not much give to it. I've jacked the engine up as much as possible, but now it is lifting the van and not the engine anymore. Still not enough room to fit it. I tried repositioning the jack and still no help. Any ideas? Would it help to jack position the jack under the oil pan?
Try not to jack under the oil pan as it can crush. Make sure you leave the lower trans mount bolts off, this allows the engine/transmission more movement. See 4.30 in the video. The new mount will be super tight (my old ones had quite a bit of movement)
Thanks for video. I have two problems.....1) I can't get to the top front mount bolt. What tool is used there? 2) The electrical connector to the mount is not coming off. Is there a honda trick? Thanks again for video.
All of the tools I used are listed in the first few minutes of the video. The electrical connector didn't give me any issues, I'd cut it off on the mount side to give you a little more room.
You have to remove the coil that has a hex nut in front of the back left bolt, I tried every way around it. Also, use a wobble socket, not a angle adapter.
Thank you for the reply, was there a significant change in feel with the van after all mounts have been replaced?.... I have a very annoying vibration feel on steering during cruising and when eco kicks in, I also hear a loud clunk when shifting from park to drive. Thanks again.
The change was immediate, the most noticeable change is when you are going about 60 and eco kicks in. It should fix the vibrations in the steering wheel. The shifting into gear clunk sounds like a separate issue, I've noticed a clunk when I'm parked on an incline, but not when I'm shifting on a flat surface...
How long did those after market motor mounts end up lasting? My front motor mounts needs to be replaced. 2007 Ody Touring | 207k miles. This is obviously a no budget project lol. Trying to cut costs where I can.
Rear Mount:DEA Products A4583EL www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBPZJ2C/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Front Mount: DEA Products A65026EL www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EV6GHF6/ref=oh_details_o04_s03_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Passenger Upper mount: 05-12 Honda Right Engine Motor Mount Odyssey Pilot www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00741791Q/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Trans mount 1: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CGHQW2/ref=oh_details_o04_s04_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Trans Mount 2: DEA A4559 Transmission Rear Mount www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008JPYMCU/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@Jamnajar, I'm certain that you are tired of fielding this same question, but I'll ask it anyway. At this time how many miles has it been since you performed this repair? Are you still totally satisfied with the DEA parts or are they not working so well now? I noticed that someone on the thread ( I've read every message in your 2 years of comments) noted that their DEA parts failed after 18 months of "hilly" driving. That's why I'm interested in your experience (mileage, current condition). Since this video was put up in March of 2014, you should have about 28 months of driving on those DEA mounts at present. You mentioned that your mounts had been changed once already, was that during your ownership of the van? If so, were Honda mounts used the first time? How many miles did they last? Thanks for the great video, and thanks in advance for any additional information that you provide in answering this post. If you're in the south jersey area you can come over and lend me a hand. LOL.
Right now we are at 105K Miles. So far I'm quite pleased with them, especially considering the price point. Another user on here had them fail at 18 months but they were so much cheaper than Honda OEM mounts, they decided to replace them with DEA mounts again.
Thanks for the video! Looks like all honda's with ECO mode is experiencing this problem. You have had this mount for a year or more now, do you see it getting bad ? I read in lot of forums that DEA's engine mount start to fail in 6 months. What are your thoughts ?
Great video guys I just ordered a set of mounts for mine as the engine is vibrating around 20-45mph periodically. How long did the job take to do total?
I think the total job was about 7 hours, took us a bit because we were stopping to film, discuss the filming..I would say with two people, standard tools 4-6 hours would be typical.
How are the DEA mounts holding up? I am very hesitant to buy OEM due to the price. Did it solve vibration issues? Looks like it has been 4 months since you had them installed. A feedback would be appreciated. Good video by the way.
Jam, thanks for this. Help me out here though. I just had my Odyssey checked out and one very reputable shop said for my 2007 Odyssey EX-L, the front and rear mounts are $660 each (genuine Honda parts). I called Honda locally and they said the same thing. Both say they REQUIRE the "hydraulic" front and rear mounts which are mucy more pricey. But your link to Amazon has prices that are significantly lower. Do I need for my 2007 EX-L these really pricey hydraulic front and rears? I'm getting a definitive "yes" from both my very reputable shop and my local Honda dealer. Thanks for any input here!
I want to ask you about how to diagnosis odyssey engine mount problem. the engine and steering wheel were shaking and making noise ( sounds like loud humming sound) when I accelerate from 35-60mph, and when the car is at constant speed 70mph there were no vibrations detected. I was wondering if this is the symptom of bad motor mounts or the torque converter on the transmission. In the worse scenario, it might have been both. But what are the most common problem that could have happened to the Odyssey 05 EX-L? is the tranny also go bad prematurely in Odyssey 2005?
Vibrations under load could be a terrible out of balance tire, bent rim, bad drive axles or CV joints, or transmission issues. The vibrations from bad motor mounts typically are manifest right when the van goes into and out of ECO mode when it deactivates cylinders.
Yeah, for my case i think i can rule out wheel balance, bent rim, bad axles or cv joints because these issues will cause the steering wheel to shake and vibration on the engine at high speed, but once I got to 70mph and kept it constant, the vibration, shaking and noises in the engine disappeared. Regardless of ECO mode on or off, the engine still shakes whenever I accelerate.
OK, i'm tackling this project on the weekend, just a quick question, i'm thinking of picking up an impact driver, will 18-Volt One+ Impact Driver work? i figure since i already have the One+ batteries just get the same brand - i guess a better question would be; whats the RPM on the one you guys are using? thanks in advance!
Any air impact/wrench or electric impact will certainly be a big help on disassembly! The RIDGID in the video has the following specs: RPM: 0 - 2,400 Torque: 1,750 in-lbs. Trigger: Variable Speed Voltage: 18V Model: X4 18V Lithium-Ion Impact Driver I like to buy RIDGID because they have a lifetime warranty on the batteries, charger and tool itself!
So the honda dealership is charging me 900 to do my motor mounts and 500 to do transmission mount , my dad knows how to work on cars is possible to do it with out the shop
Hi, thanks for the video. ..it was a great help...I just replaced all my mounts on an 05 odyssey, I used aftermarket mounts from Autozone. ...They come with a lifetime warranty. Just want to point out that if anyone orders the mounts from Autozone make sure to order the V-Tech transmission mounts not i-V Tech, they list a different transmission mount for the i-V Tech but it is wrong, both V-Tech and i -V Tech have the same tranny mounts.....The van runs nice now, no vibrations but I do have that humming sound not bad though, I can really only hear it when the van is idling. Have you figured out the reason or fix for it? Thx Rob
I haven't been able to fix the hum, I did notice that the rear mount actually makes it's own noise at idle that almost sounds like a purr. I haven't found any documentation that says this is normal or not normal, so we have just decided to live with it for now...
Thanks for making this video. I am having the same purr after replacing with aftermarket. I wish i could have afforded oem ones. I am a paramedic so i used my stethoscope and confirmed front and back are humming/vibrating internally. I ordered mounts from motor king in Florida. They sent the wrong transmission mounts. I questioned the guy on the phone twice about the number he was telling me cause their own website has a descrepancy. I feel like the steering wheel vibration is better now over 65 mph. My wife isn't real happy she said you made one problem better but created another one. She said its really annoying idleing at a light it sounds like a motorcycle or airplane taking off. Sux man they have a return policy but i really dont feel up to doing the job again and can't afford oem. Does the humming improve with time? I figure once i get the tranny mounts from them it will be a slight improvement in vibrations but i do t think they will change the annoying sound. I can say these seemed harder than my old 2003 odyseey mounts i did. Thx once again.
Dobster Dad The vibration noises haven't really changed over the last year or so since I did the mounts. I did at one point plugin the old rear mount at idle, in gear, and noticed it made noise too. I feel like the noises were designed to combat the engine vibration noises but are out of sync. It never annoyed me enough to get to the bottom of it, other than resetting the ECU (no change) and researching on the web (no quantifiable information). If that changes I'll update this video!
