Thank you for the film. Can you tell what grease goes inside of the ICM and possibly where do you apply it? In my coil compartment ( to the very right under the bigger connector) for the ICM there was a blob of some grease. Is it supposed to be there? And if so what grease is it? For the new ICM AC Delco gives a pack of grease to put on the female connectors, but where exactly? And nothing said to put into the coil compartment. Do you put any grease on the metallic plate of the module? My original Module (2003 Chevrolet Cavalier, Eco Tec 2.2 engine).
Hi +Backyard Chevy, I replaced my 2005 Chevy Cobalt 2.2 ICM and coil pack. It started and stayed on for about 5mins & then shut off; Now it will crank but goes right back dead. I even put the old one back on and it’s still cranking but going dead right away. Could you help with a possible solution? When I spoke with a mechanic he said that it needed to be reprogrammed. Is this true?
When u say dead u mean it shuts off or u mean the battery dies and u have to jump start it? No u dont have to reprogram it, any check engine light codes?
@@freestylediywithporchiahol8249 havent used much of em but the ancel classic on amazon for 35 dollars wont cost u much and does quite a bit...when the car shut off did it just cut off or was it sputtering and eventually shut off.
Okay, Thanks for the suggestion. It is just shutting off. Since I put the old one back on, there have been moments to where it’ll sputter them shut off but it mostly cranks and then shuts off right away.
@@freestylediywithporchiahol8249 cause when a car sputters and dies its usually a fuel related problem, but if it just cuts off its usually related to a bad sensor that cuts off the spark, if u have access to a fuel pressure tester or maybe if u have an autozone nearby they might have one in their loaner tools, but if not the scanner is a good place to start
Do you have any instructions or any help on removing the coil pack with the boots stuck in the hole? Specifically the last boot closest to the ignition module
Is it the whole 4 coil assembly or is it newer single coil with boot? Is it just the boot stuck in there? Normally i try to rotate boot back and forth slightly til it frees up then it should be able to slide out
I literally got a full tune up changing everything including the ignition module and my car would still cut off everytime i slowed down.. and it was this ignition coil that was the problem.. i wish i found this video then...
yes, i actually posted a follow up video on how to test em to make sure ur changing the proper part...heres the link if ud like to watch it:)...ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NobPnQSW4f0.html
Like what exactly? Cranks but no start? If the ignition module goes bad it will cause car to not start but to verify u wanna put a spark tester on at least one of the boots and see if it fires.
@@backyardchevy328 yea it just cranks. I tested the fuel with the starting fluid so and you can hear the fuel pump, so im making my way down the list. Im going to have to pick up a tester then. I appreciate the response
@@K-RONA yea those ignition modules do fail often on these vehicles and its most likely the reason urs isnt starting but its always good to verify before spending..i got another video which should be linked at the end of the video, where u can test if its sending a fire signal to ur ignition coils with an voltmeter
So you go from changing the icm to changing the coil assembly and the icm. I guess that's fine if you have the money but you didnt diagnose properly. Was it the coil or was it the icm? Nobody will ever know.
It was the ignition control module, i had purchased both to do a longer video showing the tests with the ignition coils and the ignition module but realized on other videos that i have no one really looks at the testing part of it, majority just skip to the what fixed the problem. So decided to just shorten the video to the one i made.
@@backyardchevy328 I would wanna know if I didnt already know. But this is an instal video and you did do just that. Not knocking down you video. But Chevy guys dont wear sissy glove. Jk. Have a good one!
Lol yea, i normally wouldnt wear gloves all the time either but ive been having to help out one of my elderly parents and i gotta focus on being a lil cleaner hands wise since i cook for em too...but thank you and have a great evening:)
Hey-- My Cobalt just cranks but won't start anymore. At first, it would start, then immediately sputter down till it was dead. Now it just won't start. It sounds like the fuel pump is fine, and I can even smell fuel when I do crank it. Some people who have looked at it said it may just not be firing. Could my coil packs and module be the problem?
It could be the module, when that goes bad it could cut the spark to all cylinders or to one of the coils..but the odd thing is if it would start and sputter..its either running on 2 cylinders which could be caused by ignition module or bad coil...or its got a fuel or a bad sensor...if u could get a fuel pressure tester from say autozone they loan em out..put it on fuel pressure port make sure fuels not an issue..i also got a video that shows how to test the ignition module and the coils..if ud like i can send u the link
@@backyardchevy328 So I replaced my module, coil packs. Would not start. Then I tested the fuel pressure after your comment and it read 0. Turns out I wasn't hearing my fuel pump at all, so I decided to go ahead and replace it after I checked the wiring, which is still good. Replaced my fuel pump -- and guess what? Yeah, still wouldn't start, nor would the fuel pump turn on. Checked the fuses and everything, it all looks good. So, my guess is perhaps it's the ECM. Have yet to replace that, or haven't gotten a friend to come see if they could perhaps reprogram it. No new messages had come on from my Cobalt. What do you think about all of this?
@@KungFuOreo any chance the security light is on when ur trying to start it? On some vehicles it disables the fuel pump on others it doesnt let it crank im not sure which of the 2 it does on cobalts...i would check to make sure security light isnt on..if thats fine i would check the fuse/relay to make sure theyre getting voltage if u have a test light or multimeter
@@backyardchevy328 So back before it completely would not start, the last drive home, it began doing the sputtering thing and the RPMs were weird. The speedometer kept jumping about, and my RPMs were also fluctuating as well. At that moment, the Security Light did come on. I thought it was that at one point, but the Security Light is no longer on anymore. I've already checked the fuses with a Multimeter. Everything is good.
I have a 2004 Saturn ion with a 2.2l ecotec. had the same issues. A lot of codes, misfires, cat getting super heated, etc. Turns out the ICM was bad on the pin for #2 & 3. I changed the coul pack also. This is a simple fix that took care of all the codes but one, a P0341 camshaft position sensor code. But this particular 2.2l series does not have a camshaft position sensor. I have test the crankshaft position sensor, which I've heard can effect that code but I tested it and it is good. I have looked everywhere for advice and tips, with no luck. Does anyone have any ideas on what might be causing this P0341 code to pop up?
I had that same problem happen to me recently on a cobalt ...i bought an ac delco ignition module from ebay...and it fixed the misfire but was harder to start checked the code that popped up and it was that same camshaft code...so did a return on that module and bought one locally and fixed both issues.
The car it got to a stop light a few blocks away from the house then it started shaking really bad and shut off when pressed the gas...it turned on again and ran good but drove it back home..then it happened again..and when i noticed that both cylinder 2 and cylinder 3 were misfiring..i realized that would be the ignition coil..because this model has one coil that powers 2 cylinders inside the whole coil unit
Well itd have a few differences from the 07..the 07 probably has a cam sensor which the 05 has a ignition module that works as the cam sensor which the 07 doesnt have and yea the coils
@@79monteblack 🙂 no problem, i actually have a more detailed video on how to check the ignition module and ignition coils linked in description and at end of video if ur having a similar issue on a 2.2l ecotec
Quick question. I own a 2004 Saturn ion 2. It has the same 2.2 liter engine as yours and wont stop misfiring. I have replaced the fuel filter the spark plugs and the number 2 O2 sensor. Im betting it either the ignition control module or its the coil pack unit. I searched online for a coil pack unit to replace it and it also brought up new individual coils with it. Can you replace individual coils on these engines or is it all 4 coils wired together and when goes bad you have to replace them all?
yea the coils are all attached as a single unit...but it should be ur ignition module causing ur problem, its a common issue on these vehicles, but i would purchase the ac delco brand ignition module if possible, they are much more reliable.
Got it fixed lucked into a totalled 05 or 06 cobalt lt. They let me have the coil pack and icm for 20. My main question is theres a number 4 on the bottom of my coil pack from the ion and a number 3 from the cobalt. Any ideas as to why that is?
That's awesome, so glad to hear u were able to fix it and for quite cheap...not sure on why'd they have a different number on it, they use the same exact coil packs so maybe just has to do with a manufacturing stamp.
Does it matter what part of that small adapter goes up and which one down? The ends are a little bit different on that adapter (ACDelco 19300922 GM Original Equipment Ignition Control Module).
Yes it does..the pins are different sizes, youll want to match em to the pin size, you should be able to count the pins to be able to match em to the correct side
@@backyardchevy328 On that adapter it fits both ways. I removed and didn't look, which one goes which way. Now in doubts, though probably doesn't matter, bcs I ordered a new one and nothing said on it, no instructions. I assume if it would be important they would write smth. I'll try both ways if smth. Thank you for your concern.
@@backyardchevy328 On ACDelco they are different, additional metal plates are on one side, someone wrote me that it works both ways though. Do you happen know the purpose of that small hole at the center of the back plate? Do you need to cover it w/grease? Are you supposed to remove a piece of transparent paper fm that hole? No technical support for that product, ACdelco refuses any questions.
hi if you can get back to me i have a problem but car would be off making noise also saw liquid/moist .people told me its a bad spark plug and coil PLZ help i have a 2006 chevy cobalt
I kinda need to understand it a lil better, if the cars making noise while its off its most likely not gonna be a coil or spark plug unless its got a short...so if u can try and explain it a lil clearer ill be glad to help, and this liquid u see is it maybe oil when u remove the coil pack assembly and its covering the spark plug?
@UCDiWaOw59eLm0ijV_P7ApAw yes sounds crazy but heres the story. so im in my car half way on with the heat and phone plugged in i try to crank my car on and it would not start and died. i jumped it and it turned on with some ugly nosie like a misfire. i leave it run for 10 min turn it off back on and it was fine no noise i drive to my friends house .and im leaving now and my car would not start key is stuck so i push the botton that frees the key and try to turn it on half way the nosie starts and i quickly turn off the car now the nosie still going for 6 mins at this point it smelled burnt and the nosie stops battery dead i discounted the negative if i put it in makes a little low nosie and here I'm
sounds like u might have a sticking starter, like where car starts but a grinding noise continues cause starter is stuck to the tooth of the ring gear, a misfire kinda just makes car shake it doesnt really make a ugly noise its just like a put put sound with shaking and car will wanna shut off.
@@backyardchevy328 Que pasa hombre. Seguí el video y el auto arrancó. Las bujías originales no se pudieron quitar. Estaban allí muy apretados. ¿Debo usar algo de fuerza y de qué manera giro el zócalo? Hacia mí o hacia el parabrisas. Me ahorraste mucho dinero. Muchas gracias. El lado de mi madre de la familia es mexicano, pero el estúpido gringo nunca aprendí español. Necesito saber si voy a vivir en San Antonio.
@@robertramjam913 si estan bien apretadas les puedes poner wd40 para que las roscas lo absorbe..para ayudarte aflojarlos..y una llave mas larga te da poquita mas fuerza para aflojarlos...y miralos como si es un reloj...para aflojarse darle vuelta como si estas quitandole horas
