I show you how to remove and install the front and rear wheels on a 2005 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail. This video is for entertainment purposes only. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video. I need to replace my rear tire and was dreading doing it but after seeing your video I think it won’t be so bad. Thanks a lot. I watched it again just as a refresher. Got mine rear one off and will change tire and put it back on, Lord willing, tomorrow. Big help, thanks again.
THats the most straight forward easy to follow video I've watched. Pulling my old 87 softail out and wanting to pull the tires to get new ones but was a bit concerned about the rear adjusting screws.
I just watched this vid right now!! you are marvelous in your presentation!!! I have a 2016 slim S, which has the exact same wheel size as the heritage, so this helps me tremendously!! I will subscribe!! thanks Cliff!!! KEEP IT UP BRO!!
Thank Brother, you make look so easy ! I'm like watching, I'm just afraid to do it cause I usually mess things up , I'm starting to get a lil confidence! 👍
The early 2000's Softail rear brake design is a real bitch to get on especially with new pads.. Some drunk HD engineer did that. Best to remove pads before wheel is taken off and put them back on once the wheel and caliper is in position on the early 2000's Softails. The caliper is much easier to mount inside the wheel rim and on the brake disc without the pads. Then slip the old or new pads in and install the brake pad pins. This is really important if you have custom chrome or powder coated rims that you don't want to get scratched and banged up by the caliper when you do your own rear wheel work. Remember, in these early years of 2000's Softails, the brake caliper is a unit mounted with the axle and supported by the frame as seen in this video above. This doesn't take a lot of time and makes wheel removal and installation much easier and gives you good visual to clean the caliper pistons, seals and inside the caliper. They went with a bolt on design later thank goodness. Also note as the video shows: A lot of folks reverse the axle (having it come in from the left and axle nut on the right). If you have a booger of a right side exhaust you need to remove just to remove the rear wheel axle - this is worth doing. Everything else remains the same (spacers etc..). There is supposedly a reason HD had the axle coming in from the right: (due to rotation of the axle nut if the axle some how seizes up with bad bearings etc...), but from what I have read - there has never been an issue with 1000's of owners and dealers doing this and makes the axle removal easy without removing the exhaust most of the time. Consult a dealer or HD mechanic if you like.
Excellent video and thanks for doing what you do. My 12 point bolts on the front caliper are frozen and now stripped. (thank you Austin HD dealer for over torquing when they replaced the tire...) Can I remove the wheel without removing the caliper? My plan is to remove the wheel, drill the end off the 12 point and remove the caliper off the fork and hopefully get the bolt out. I've tried Bp blaster overnight, and also heating with torch. Heated for anywhere from 15 seconds to 2 minutes. MF will not move. Any assistance would be appreciated. My next step was going to be welding a nut on the end of that bolt. Or using an easyout. Easy out scares me in case it breaks off.
You make it look so easy! Recently had my dads tyres replaced aswell as the bearings. We’ve tried putting the front wheel on and it’s locking up! Plus the calliper is about 5mm away from the mounting bracket on the fork. The right side bearing is set pretty far in yet the left side bearing is flush to the lip of the rim. Took the wheel to a hog mechanic and he thinks the bearings are the wrong size (width). What size bearings have you got? My dad has a 08 Softail but I’m stumped and cannot figure out why it’s doing it, the whole wheel is offset to the right side of the fender!
so you use just one motorcycle Jack under the Bike...and looks like when taking out and reinstalling the wheels...you lower it down closer to the ground to align up? Thanks..Great video
Great video... Thanks... I'm about to change out my rear rotor and pads. So you do not have to move/loosen the belt tensioners to remove the back tire and belt? Looks like you just left them where they originally were and punched out the rear axle. Is that correct? Thanks again.
I bought the identical bike back in 05. Glacier White paint because everyone else had a black one. Now it's FULLY customized and.......BLACK! LLL Go figure!
So on the back tire if the belt is aligned and the correct tension when start it will be right if you don't touch the adjusters will be correct when you put it back on ?
Just remove the snap ring inside the dog bowl on the back of the spacer then take dog bowl off spacer then reinstall....simple as pie....for my 03 heritage classic anyways
It’s a Harley you shouldn’t be using metrics sockets. Everything on those bikes are standard sizes. Yes it can be done but it’s easier round off some bolts using metric tools.
Not about to find the axle torque. But I believe 55-65 lb front and back. Then 20lb if you have the studs with nut washer or 10lb if you have the 5mm Allen head bolts. NO MORE THEN 10lb. Hope this helps.
Might want to rewatch that. I said 20 ft/lbs. Yes I’ve heard of of a torque wrench. I have a very nice Snap-On 3/8 drive digital one that was out for its yearly calibration.
