Thanks for the video TheyMightBeRacing. The PS portion is helpful. However, as Fred Stuckey posted, the serpentine belt procedure is wrong. I'm commenting so that no one makes the mistake of taking off the two 14mm bolts (because I did and ended up stripping the bolt!). Those are idler pulley bracket bolts. Leave them alone! All that's required to take the serpentine belt off is to loosen the 14mm idler pulley center nut, then loosen the 8mm tensioner rod. Reverse to tighten. Easy. The reason why you had a hard time putting on the belt is because you didn't loosen the idler. You were lucky that you didn't strip the 14mm bolt that you took off. Also, without loosening the idler pulley center nut, turning the 8mm tensioner rod would do no good. If you did make the mistake of removing the bolt and couldn't put it back together without stripping it, take the wheel and wheel well cover off and tackle it from that angle. You also will have a clear view if you need to fix the threads that you may botch up. I appreciate you for taking the time to make the video. I know you meant well.
There are appx. three (3) videos on youtube for this car who all say to loosen one and completely remove the other 14mm bolt. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out why. I just finished this job, I could not break the two 14mm bolts. Instead I just completely removed the idler pulley which was practically hand tight. Set the belt on the 3 grooved components and snaked the belt to the idler pulley last. EZ clap, car has yet to explode.
Seems like a nice man, but this is the kind of video that can mess up a lot of DIYers. The factory service manual says, like Jason, to loosen the tensioner pulley bolt up front & the tensioner lock nut in back -OP did neither.
Hi I really enjoyed your matter of fact style of presentation, thank you for your video I had to do the same job on a QG16DE Engine, I followed your method doing the small one first and the the big one, your tip about the metal brading showing and the cracking spurred me to do this job which I put off for some time. The tip that really helped me was when you said there are two 14mm bolts you remove the first one and slack the second one. No where in the maintaince manual does it show that for the QG16 Engine, that was a real help. I approached the job by taking the bottom slash guard off and the came in from the side after removing the wheel etc this gave me more room to see what I needed to do and space to work. The engine bay is really tight. Thanks again for your video which I watched a few times and especially the effort you put into it, it was a great help to me. kind regards.
Wish this video would specify how tight the belts need to be in the end. I'm glad I read the comments to find out that I only need to loosen the 14 mm pulley bolts not remove the front one.
1)This process is more easily done if the car is jacked up and the passenger side tire and splash guard are removed. Tensioners and belts are more easy to access. 2) There is a pivot bolt on the bottom of the power steering pump that must be loosened so the pump will pivot freely. The pump can be damaged by forcing it without loosening this bolt 2) The bolt in the center of the front tensioner pulley must be loosened to allow belt tension to be adjusted using the 8mm adjustment screw.
I did both my belts today and appreciate your time. The biggest help was your "unimpressed" description because I assumed this was like my last car with a real serpentine going all through the accessories, and I was also concerned my timing had a belt and could be slipping - I was very glad to know that was chain-driven. I've worked on cars before and figured out after a few minutes how to loosen the bolt on the power steering pump to move it forward. All in all it's turned out great, thanks much for the video.
Thanks for the video. I was having trouble with the compressor belt, I couldn't get it loose..till i saw your video. Other videos left important steps out. Again great video. Thanks
okay, figured it out. the reason it was hard to pull the power steering pump up was because you didn't loosen the bolt to the side of the tensioner bolt. once you do that, it just moves easy
DUDE! ha ha you had me pulling that damn power steering for an hour and a half... you didnt mention the 12 mm nut you have to loosen.. not the tensioner bolt., the nut that allows the power steering to rock. I didnt see it under the water hose. But I got it. Your video helped alot man thank you
Yesterday just changed these belts on my Nissan Almera 2003. It's pretty much the same procedure on it, the QG15DE engine. As mentioned below, it helps to loosen the nut on the side of the ps pump tensioner bolt, as well as the 14 millimeter nut below the ps pump. Makes moving it so much easier to get the ps pump/waterpump belt on. Both the tensioner bolt and the nut on side of it, which kind of locks the tensioner bolt, are 12 millimeter in my Almera. Also, the tensioner on the belt for alternator and a/c compressor is easier to move if you losen up the tensioner pulleys nut, which in my case was 17 millimeter. I had to remove the tensioner pulley entirely to get the new belt in place, it was a pain to get back on but I did it. This took me a little over an hour to do, but it's worth saving the money if you know what you're doing.
You do not loosen the two 14 mm bolts..you loosen the idler pulley bolt which is on a slide. Just like the outer belt it secures the adjuster in place once adjusted.
No kidding, I wasted an entire hour trying to get the damn bolt hole to line up until I read you comment. All the swearing inthe world didn't get to line up.:)
Thank you for this video, it sure helped me with my mom's '04 Sentra! One thing to note is that the AC/Alternator belt tensioner may have a 10mm bolt instead of 8mm like many videos on here say. As you said, it's a pain to get to, and it's angled poorly (head of the bolt pointing down to the ground). Other commenters below say that loosening the idler pulley bolt helps; it sure did in my case. As did the suggestion to pry the power steering pump forward with a pry bar against the unibody. One thing that helped me get the PS pump loose was to slightly loosen the retaining nut on the back of the tensioner bolt where it connects to the pump and adjuster bracket. Once I did that, it was easy-peasy!
Watched your video without reading the comments. Thanks to the comments, figured out to loose the center bolt on the idler pulley, not remove the forward of the two 14mm under it. Coulda saved a lot of time if I’d read the comments first
Spent 4 hours doing it this way finally took the tensioner off completely to find out you just need to loosen the bolt on the pully and it slides back and forth.
Thanks Friend - Although I agree with the other comments (you only need to loosen the 14mm idler pully bolt then use the 8mm tensioner bolt to loosen up the pully without ever needing to address the other two bolts on that pully), this video showed me how the tensioner "bolts" work and I finally understand it 100%. Thanks!
Thanks a lot for the video. Just find out that after one looses the tensioner for the power steering belt. There is another bolt on the bracket that fixes the pulley. After loosing it, it is easy to push the pulley forward and hence to loose the power steering belt.
I had no idea that you can move the power steering pulley to get that belt off! I I’ve had to take it off twice because my regular belt broke twice, and I would loosen that 12 mm bolt But I would be underneath the car And it would still barely come off! Thank you for the good video so now I know what to do next time. I literally had to use a screwdriver To slip it off and on
CONTINUED FROM LAST POST: Doing this will eliminate the need to remove the front tensioner pulley bracket bolt. If you do no loosen the pulley bolt, you can not adjust belt tension (using the 8mm adjustment screw) as the pulley location will not change; the pulley is locked down. Removing and reinstalling the bracket bolts will put the tensioner pulley back in it's original position which may be too tight for a new belt.
Very Helpful Video! I wish there were well explained videos like this but with a split-screen of a 3d diagram next to it to also show a way i could see EVERYTHING that is mentioned. like the two 14mm bolts and how to hold to pull the power steering to shift forward. that would be a perfect how to video. but im sure i will find out how to do it on my sentra 2002 Thanks TheyMightBeRacing!
Good Deal, Thanks. this is the only decent vid on the 05 nissan, My only complaint is that there was way more than an hours worth of cussing. I replaced both belts even thought the little one looked new, there was 'Banding on the Serp. n this helped me prove to the wife that it had to be done, n i discovered that i'm missing the upper alt bolt. After seating the belt and making up new cuss words putting that lower pulley bolt back in was a 'Bear, I made two laps around the car with my arms held up in a Victory Dance. I WIN
dude u need to change or put a note down. i just had a shit load of a bad time replacing my belt because of your instructions.i wish i had read the comments before starting this task.
Thanks for the video, but you do not have to remove the mounting bolt from the drive belt tensioner. You only need to loosen the pully nut and it will move forward when you loosen the tensioner screw. If you take the mounting bolt off fiom below the tensinoner pully it's not going to work. It will only cause you swear a lot try to get the bolt to line up.
Agree. Also I pulled the passenger wheel and the wheel well coveroff. Made it really easy to work on. The tension screws were much easier to access. A 90 powered ratchet would make this really easy.
Thank You , helped a lot ; however on my 2006 1.8 I only removed the Alternator bracket and Unbolted ground to block used a Pry bar after I loosened tensioner be very careful when praying and was able to take off belt and replacing was a bit tighter but I spun it grabbing the belt at sides just a bit to pop on
The tensioner you are talking about 0:58 seconds into the video, in my car, will not loosen, I tried pulling as hard as I could even with a small wrench and it would not budge. How can I get that loose?
Video is NOT WRONG. I would have saved a lot of time if I followed the video EXACTLY. Loosening the idler pulley bolt gave me enough slack to remove the old belt, but I fought for an hour trying to stretch the new belt onto the pulleys before I watched the video again and loosened the two 14mm bolts and removed the forward one. The belt went right on because the idler pulley was able to move even more. Thanks “TheyMightBeRacing.” kyle vorst & jamhoskins not wrong, but your way didn't help me.
There's a 14mm bolt on the bottom of the power steering, reached from under the car, which will give it slack to move so you don't have to push it like that.
Instead of pulling hard on the pump, look at the power steering tensioner bolt. Where it threads in there is a 10mm nut. Before pulling the tensioner bolt out break that nut loose and the pump will pivot perfectly easy. Thank me later
I just noticed this too before I lost daylight! I looked along the adjustment slot, and sure enough, it's clamped tight with that tensioning bracket bolt. I wonder how he re-tensioned with it frozen in place like that? I'll get back to it in the morning.
Didn't mention the bolt on the back of the pully. Removing the bracket is a BAD idea on the serpentine belt. I can't get the bracket back on and it seems to have damaged threads, thanks to bad information I have a very large dust collector stuck outside of my house and need to rethread the bracket bolt you said to remove.
This information is not correct. On the large tensioner you are supposed to loosen the 14mm nut in the middle and then release tension with the 8mm adjuster. The pair of 14mm head bolts below the tensioner are what secures it to the block.
I should have read these comments first. I did loosen the 2 bolts that held the mounting bracket and then removed one only to find the tension pulley wouldn't move to add tension. I then realised I needed to loosen the nut holding the tension pulley to the bracket. Once loose it was easy and i could kicked myself for making harder than it should be. Although the size of the nut holding my tension pulley on is 17mm.
this guy gives good info but he got it wrong on loosening 14mm bolts... all you have to do is losen the nut on the idler pulley and then you can adjust with the 8mm bolt under the alternator by the belt... I used a ratcheting end wrench on the tension bolt... don't even mess with the 14mm bolts...!
Thank You! Until I read this, mine was not moving at all...I was about to start on it with a cold chisel. The failure to mention this bolt is a major flaw in the video.
@@juancarlosgzrz Yep.."failure to mention this bolt"..then Jaguara fails to mention "this bolt" he is talking about...useless and no replies....even 8 years ago (understand that one, but Jaguara could have clarified. I am in the process now and struggling with the Power Steering belt..can't get it tensioned right and don't understand at all how that "ternsioner" bolt does anything at all. I push my PS pump over,. tighten the through bolt on the bracket and I am done...I THINK? Anyone have any comments on exactly how to use the tensioner on the PS side to do..anything at all...please Comment???
@@jeap6912 Yes. If you look at the side of the tensioner bolt bracket. There's a nut that holds the bracket on, on the back, and also clamps the pivot point in place. You can see there's a slot to allow the movement back and forth. Loosen, and it will allowing the tensioning bolt to tension or loosen. I have to wonder how the guy in the video retensioned, or even moved it at all with it clamped. I loosened mine all the way out, and it did nothing.. Because it was still clamped. Unclamp, and it'll work. Don't forget to retighten it when you're at the right tension again.
@@breaddrinker yep, i got it done a while ago. But thanks for the reply. There isnt really a tensioner on it, basically bolts that hold the part in place.
@@jeap6912 The long bolt on the front of the bracket is the tensioner. Once you tighten it enough to hit the frame of the bracket, it starts to pull back on the pulley pivot, tightening the belt. Bolt on the bracket locks it. If you were able to get the belt off, you loosened it. Don't leave that loose. you'll throw a belt. Also a middle bolt holding the pump on itself can cause it to not swing, but is a pain to get to. It's right next to the oil filter.
Hi,I just wonder where did u get these dayco belt for the sentra? I had nissan sentra 2004 and my power steering belt is making squealing noise. I used the water bottle test and thought it should be a pulley problem. Might be misaligned. Any hint how to fix this DIY? Thanks a lot
can someone help me?..i need the thred count for the tension rod on my 2006 nissan sentra 1.8L- trying to tighten the power steering belt- ive lost the bold, lock nut and rod
I took an emissions and inspections test and the inspection failed. I went to AutoZone to buy the drive belts and they gave me a serpetine belt. I specifically asked for drive belts and I guess they didnt know or something. Do they have those at places like AutoZone or do I have to order them offline? I have a Nissan Altima 2007 by the way. Thanks for responding too.
@@ScoobyBaseball damn I’m stuck on getting power steering belt as of now because my pump won’t push forward it’s difficult situation.I’ve tried loosening every bolt by the pump and it won’t even move.
I'm not sure why your belts need to be changed because of emissions. But, the Nissan Sentra doesn't have an actual Serpentine Belt, it has two drive belts. Generally I would recommend replacing both at the same time.
@ayubisobhan if you talking loosing the belt, then you will need a certain tool. I forgot what's it called but if you go to autozone or any auto part store and asked them u need a tool loosen the belt and then they will know what you talking about and show you the tool....
Do NOT remove the bolts going into the engine block. In short, watch this video, and ignore everything other than the locations of the two tensioners. Then look here to see where the other bolts missed in this video are, that allow the tensioners to pivot. cdn.instructables.com/FF1/85Y0/FMEGF1VF/FF185Y0FMEGF1VF.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&&frame=1 It's 4 bolts in total. All reachable without removing anything else. Zero bolts are removed. Read comments for more info on what will happen if you follow the video to the letter.
whats the correct tension for the power steering pump screw because i tried to take it off and then put it back on and now when i turn the wheel to hard it squeals and squeaks
his technique is not that good. there's 5 bolts to undo only. 2 for alternator belt, the tensioner pulley main bolt, then unscrew size 8mm tensioner bolt that sits right above the AC, pointing towards the front of the car, as needed. for the P.S. unscrew 12mm bolt behind tensioner bolt, unscrew size 14mm nut bottom rear of P.S. pump, then open 12mm tensioner bolt as needed.
u did this soooo wrong . the power steering there is a jam nut on the back of thw tensioner bracket loosen that amd u wont have to pull hard at all and also u just loosen the 14 mil on the tensioner pulley itself the nut that holds the pulley on . i came to this for info cuz im doing 1 of these right now and i ended up figuring it out myself .
unless a 2006 is different your missing a few things,like the NUT that holds the idler which is what you loosen to crank on the 8mm piece of crap,havnt got time to talk about the PS boltS
This dude cost me hours of trying to get the bolt back on! Your supposed to loosen the actual pulley bolt and then release the tension not take off the 14 mm
This video is wrong!!! The front pulley mounting bolts DO NOT have to be loosened and the front bolt doesn't have to come out. The nut in the center of the pulley needs to be
Very bad information! Wasted time and bruised my arms trying to follow this guide. You failed to mention the 14mm to loosen the pump adjuster. You don't need to remove the whole tensioner assembly, all you need is to loosen the bolt on the tensioner wheel.
Correct. The nut is pointing at the Oil Filter. You have to get under the car. I had to call my brother, mechanic, to figure it out. Then I understood what you meant. Almost did it alone. 😰
What is this bolt? Im having trouble removing the first belt right now. He said pull the power steering pump foward but thats hard to do and im not weak lol.
Nissan Sentra el Sistema para cambiar la Correa del Power Steering es complicado y retrógrado idea de Los Picapiedras Asiaticos reusen tenerlo a Futuro..
