Thank you for this video tutorial! Just did this on the exact same side on my wife's 2010 Fusion SE. Her door would not close and latch so this was the problem. Your tutorial allowed me to save at least $500 versus taking it to a dealership. Got the part for $50 on eBay and my time. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I can confirm this works on a 2010 Ford Fusion SE. I had to replace the rear passenger on the driver side. For me never working on a car this was very informing and useful tutorial. I called 3 different shops and they all wanted $235,$255,$300. I bought a $20 mechanic tool set found at your local Wal-Mart and a $9 nylon pry tool set found at your local harbor freight and was able to knock it put all on my own.
This is one of the BEST repair videos I have ever seen. The camera work is crisp, focused and, most of all, STEADY. There's nothing worse than some of the sea-sick videos where the jittery motion actually makes you sick. The description of the process is excellent and I also appreciate the tools sizes used in each step of the repair. Very well done.
Can confirm this works on the driver door for a 2008 SEL. It took me about 1.5 hours because I kept dropping the screw that holds the door handle on. Great video made it super easy. Anyone wondering mine made a different noise when it broke. It sounded like the door tried to lock a couple of times but the lock indicator never would move. I was able to lock with the key still. When I took the old actuator out I could hear something broken inside.
Thank you for the video! I had to do this for the front passenger side so I had a few extra steps but it was easy to figure out what had to be done. The biggest difference was removing the speaker.
Thanks for the vid. It was a pain getting the door lock actuator past the window frame both ways. You can also just electrically roll the window down till you see the bolts in the regulator. Leave it there, loosen the bolts and then pull the window up and tape it. No need to pull the regulator motor.
Just followed these steps and I can confirm it’s essentially the same process on a 06 fusion se right front window. Thanks so much for this video, there’s a lot of misinformation out there on this repair
I just want to thank you for the video I just did the front passenger side of my Mercury Milan 2007. Front door is almost identical to the rear door that you were doing. Great video I always appreciate people taking the time to do this to make our job easier.
This was one of the best tutorials. I followed your steps exactly and successfully replaced my actuator. I saved hundreds of dollars doing it myself. Thanks so much for sharing 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💯
Great video. Never thought the lock actuator replacement would require the entire door to be taken apart. I'll do it when the weather is cooler. I can see this taking several hours.
Bro, you rock. Thank you! I just spent a few days working on this, but I spent hours continually referencing this video. Really well done, very detailed, great job. Thank you!
Thank you so much. Great explanations and details. I'm going to replace both driver's and passenger's they failed in couple months apart. It's a nice car and I like it, but they used cheap interior plastic materials. In just 4 months, 2 lock door actuators, ac vent mode door stuck and now I hear clicking noise coming from rpm meter🙄. And one year ago, I already replaced two back door's handles and two sun visor holders. All of them are plastic.
I'm by no means a good DIY, but I always give it a shot to see how far I get (usually not very far). My door actuator arrives on the 5th of October (I bought it for under 40 bucks on ebay ) and was gonna take it to my local mechanic for two-hour labor that amounts to $150 (so he says) . Anyways, your tutorial is so clearly explained that I patiently watch the entire thing without building up any anxiety like I usually do. We will see if I can get this one done in a few days. If I can get done or not is on me, but your tutorial was 100 percent regardless of whatever happens. I will definitely give it a careful and patient shot and will honestly let you know if I succeeded or not on the repair. Thanks!
@@dannydoitall3312 I was able to replace the door actuator but it did not work. My mechanic told me that i may have gotten a faulty actuator. I went to the junk yard and got another today. I'm about to give it another shot, but i was wondering if maybe computer reset is needed or not?
I knew you would be able to do it. Before you install the second actuator all the way plug the actuator Into the plug. Then use your remote or the door lock switch on the front doors to lock and unlock the door and make sure the cable that comes out of the actuator moves in and out. The computer shouldn’t need to be reset for the door actuator .
@@dannydoitall3312 I just pluged the used actuator from the junk yard i plugged it and used my to test but the spring is not moving at all like it did in your video. I think im gonna be forced to buy a brand new one from autozone.
Your quality video and R & R skill is top notch regarding the Ford Fusion door actuator replacement. What I was looking for was a video for replacement of the window regulator. I subscribed to you for possible future R & R's. If you or anyone knows of a good video for the window regulator please comment. Thanks much!
Excellent video. Just what I needed for my 2007 F/Fusion. So glad I subscribed to your channel b/c you are "The Man" when it comes to working anything. Appreciate your good work !
1st time takes long time. Next one will take less than an hour. Ended up ordering incorrect side. So added a lot of grease to all moving parts. So far it works.
You have to be able to “0pen” the door to do all that! My door is locked shut! What a process and you are very precise in all instructions for This job..no wonder it costs so much to fix😅
this tutorial is very helpful and is accurate but for me i started at 1pm the day before, finished that night at 12:30am, continued the next day and am still trying to get the door panel back on lol
Thanks man. I thought I had to remove those pesky rivets to get this panel off. Wow so it was the window and the motor that kept me from getting it off smh. That would have been a bad day for me if I decided to just yank the panel off.
Did you pre-drill out the rivets on the aluminum inner-panel before removing the 8 screws to access the actuator? I see two on my ‘08 Fusion inner panel and don’t want to pull the panel until I know it’s totally free. (Great vid, by the way! Everything I needed!)
Hi Matthew you don’t need to drill the rivets out. You just loosen the two screws that are attached to the window. That way you won’t have to drill out those rivets and put new ones on good luck!!!!
Do you know if all door actuators and assemblies are the same on 06 Fusions? I have this issue but on the driver's door. Wondering if I can still follow along with this video to tackle it myself.
I appreciate the video, but I do have one question. I’m replacing the actuator on my Son’s Driver’s door. There are rivets in the interior body panel, how did you remove the rivets on the rear door interior panel? Or are there any rivets at all on the rear door interior panel? Just curious about how to go about that on the driver’s door? Should I drill them out? Thanks Teresa
@teresahalvorson246 I didn’t have any rivets on mine , but depending on what year your fusion is there are rivets. I would drill them out and replace with new ones. Good Luck!
Danny, Thanks for posting about the actuator and not the inside door handle like everyone else. I have the same problem, except my drivers door broke in the closed and locked position. I''ve tried just about everything short of destructive measures to get the door open but I am at the end of the line. Rather than destroy the inner door panel which is a fairly rare trim option (hard to find) I think I will have to cut a hole through the perfectly good outer door panel to access the latch. My question for you - do you know if the 3 screws that hold the mechanism to the door can be accessed from the inside/back to allow me to drill them out once I cut the door open?? If not, I suppose I will likely have to take an angle grinder to the thing. Once I get the old door open I will have to remove it and replace with a new junk yard door and transfer my inner door panels to the new door. What a PIS. I really can't believe Ford designed this in such a way that the door can fail in a permanently closed fashion.
So I have a 2012 Ford Fusion and my lock on the driver side is out...but now I can't get into the car. Its used, so it didn't come with a key fob. The manual key doesn't turn and if I pull too much the alarm will go off...
Hi Danny. Nice job, you worked hard on this, well done. I have a Fusion Zetec and the door ajar switch is sticking. I can't see the door ajar switch or is it built into the lock itself. Also if it is built in do you know which two wire connections are the door ajar switch. Thanks in advance and keep safe you and yours.
The door ajar switch is built into the actuator. The signal wire color is different for each door. On the 2006-2009 Fusion the color coding for the signal wire is as follows - Drivers Door -Green/Violet. Passenger Door - White/Yellow. Right Rear - Yellow. Left Rear - Green. You may have to look up a wiring diagram for the Zetec since I’m not sure if it uses the same color coding on the wires. Thank you
@@dannydoitall3312 Thanks Danny. I have found a wiring diagram, it shows the door colours, but it shows drivers door left front, mine is right front. So I'm thinking left hand drive. Also when you say "Drivers Door -Green/Violet" that is one wire, right? But what is the other side of the switch. Mine says left front and rear the same and the right front and rear another colour but both the same, they all go to chassis. Where did you find your info please. Thanks a lot and keep safe you and yours.
@Ilovetosingem The Green/Violet is a single wire that is the signal wire going to the instrument panel. I have a printed Haynes manual that I looked at for the wiring diagram. When the switch is closed it is grounded. Thanks
@@dannydoitall3312 OK, thanks again. I use the word chassis, others may use the ground or earth or neutral or zero volts. There really isn't an earth on a car, unless it has a lead trailing. The car doesn't touch the ground it has rubber tyres. What do you think!
@@dannydoitall3312 Hi Danny, hope you are all well. I finally got into the door lock plug, into the lock body. The wires are all black!!! You say you have a manual, do you have the pin connection numbers and what they are. E.g. 8 ground, 6 door ajar. Hope you can help. Bear in in mind, mine is a Fusion Zetec 2009. Hope you can help or point me in the right direction. Thanks again and keep well you and yours.
Can someone please please tell me if I need to do this, my driver side interior door latch does NOT lock but will unlock with the driver side switch and also with remote. But it does UNLOCK with remote and driver side switch. Old timer told me maybe I need to replace my driver side switch which I hope fixes it cuz this is a lot of work lol. But if my case sounds like I need to replace this oh well.
No, not if it's all of your doors. If it was just 1 door lock not working while the rest working then most likely otherwise it sounds like you have a fuse/ electrical issue.
Hi Danny, I have 08 Ford Fusion. I am replacing the inside door handle which is easy. But when I went to put the door latch cable on the door latch cable seems to be about a half inch short. Did the cable on the actuator twist or move in a way that the cable is just a little short?Sorry Danny it the front passenger door
Hello Gene hopefully you have solved this. The cable could be getting caught on something on the door panel. Also try to Push the lock and unlock button on the car or remote to make sure that the actuator is working properly and not jammed. If it does work then try to pull on the cable carefully and then attach the cable to the handle and try to line up the handle with he bolt hole. Good Luck!
i have a quesiton . about 5 or 6 weeks ago my 2009 ford fusion got backinto in aq paking lot and my latch immidately stopped working from the inside, but i could open the door from the outside. and then when i drove to the police station i noticed my door didn't lock when i either clicked the little black locker in the door, or the FOB itssef. but luckily i discovered that the actaul silver lock on the inside of the door just below the latch, if i pushed in it would lock th esoor. it unlocked and locked, just had to do it manually. but it worked just fine. i took it to a body shop and the main thing was the door, but they said it wasn't part of the accinet and wouldn't allow my insurance company to cover that part. even though my door operated perfectly fine and the exact moment i got hit is when the latch broke, how do i know i was in the car parked eating a slice of pizza while it happened and immidately tried to get out of teh car. but i coulnd't. anyway. i finally brought it in the collission shop is a Ford operated delaerships, bodyshop. so they are ford certified etc.. they told me it was probably going to cost aroun 90 dollars turned out to be 93. i got a loaner car as i don't have any other cars. but anyway i went to pick it up and wasn't thinking about testing the lock, i just went in and tried to see how the door latch on the insde felt, it was perfectly good so i took off. only to find out when i got all the way to my job. my car door would not lock at all. leavin my car vulnerable to people stealing anything in my car including the trunk as all they have to do is open the door (i mean probalby not highly likely) but it concerns me however, i was able to lock the door from the inisde by doing what i said up to the point where i took it in. and after i got it back it stopped working. so i took it in thinking it would be an easy fix. the guy now says "oh it is your actuator" another 240 dollars or wthaever it was but he has to call ford to get the part ic could be a copule dasy or it could be a month if they are backlogged like many things are these days. but anyway when i locked the door prior to taking it in manually, from the inside, the inside lock would click the same way as the other locks accept again it was manual only working. but when i went in i showed the guy and i know he didn't take the door panel off or antyhing h ewas in the car an djust messing around with the contorl for a copul e or so mniutes than wen to his computer and said oht eh actauator on these have a lot of problems. however, given the fact i was able to at least manually lock the door prior and could clearl tell the door latch assembly the old one was in a box it had both the latch and the manual silver lock that goes inward and outward . also the key fob has been weird. a lot of times if i just open the door the alarm goes off. albiet i did disover if i stick the key in manuall in the lock with the actaul physical key and trun it left i can turn it so the door stays locked, but it doesn't seem like it is a full turn. but at least it keeps the door locked for the time being. do you think they may have gotten a lemon of a part , or maybe installed it wrong? or if it is the actuator, given the fact that the door lock attached the the latch would at least move /click the same distance in and out as the rest of the doors proir and not now, would that mean they coul dhave actaully broken the actuator? just curious. it just doesn't feel right.
It seems like the actuator was broken from the beginning. Did the car back into your door? If it did then it would be covered by insurance. The actuators do break often. There are plastic gears inside of the actuators that break. Maybe the original handle was ok. It’s hard to tell if they broke it or not but it seems like it was already broken because it was only manually locking before.
@@dannydoitall3312 well no, as i was sitting in the car eating. it is kind of a smaller parking lot where this pizza plac eis. only hs like 5-6 cars on 2 sides and maybe a 12 feet between them or less. the car behind me slowly back up and hit my right rear bumper, but the idiot took off. if he hadn't i would have been able to get a rental car from his insurance. mine doesn't cover that, but if not my fault (which clearly it isn't since I was just sitting in pakred car. i think he may have only gone less than 5 mph. maybe 2-3? hard to know. but it still bumped the car. this was the driver's door (left) although the police officer i spoke with did say it is fairly common if for the opposite side door to be the one to get damaged in that fasion, plus i looked online before takin git wirtten by a collision shp expert and they said even the smallest accident can misalligh things. although the guy at the collision shop mentioned the damage was so minor it was almost like it didn't even do hardly nthing but scarpe my bumer it was sort of a greyinsh small spot , like maybe primer paint scrape, that was mosly on the side of the cornder and just a touch on the actaul back in the same corner. i do actaully kind of remember though that there was one other time i recall i had to roll my window down to open the door from the outside a few years back. i hadn't thought of it of course, but i kind of remember having had to do that once a long time ago. not as old as the car itself. so maybe 3-5 years? although i suppose it is possible that rod or whatever in the latch at least was ready to go soon. and maybe that bump was enough force to rattle it enough to finish it off. so had this happened 2 days later or a day before. i would never have even asked, however, given the the guy bumping into me clearly finished it off , i still think insurance should have covered it. although, the only other thing i don't undersatnd is, given you have to take the door pane off in order to fix the lock and latch/handle, and them knowing what i told them about me having had troulge initially with the locking etc.. i would have though that they would have looked at the other part or seen it was not working. or at least tested it before telling me the car was done. and you know, calling me to ask, hey we need this other part to finish the job that costs 240 more dollars, do you want us to finish it or do you want to have a mechanic do it? i mean. i would think they would have chekced or asked. that is the only reason i thought maybe they inadvertantly broke it if that is the case. i hope that helps answer your question
@@dannydoitall3312 hey, update. i haven't had a chance to take it back in just yet but my next door neighbor who knos cars very well came to physcially see my car, he didn't actaully take the panel off as he didn't have time, however, he did notice something. the panel on the door, he noticed in the upper left of the panel he was abe to pull it away from the window, and said you are not supposed to be able to do that. and therefor they didn't allign it or snap it in properly..could that be the reason?
@@Johnadams20760 could mean they broke one or more of the clips that hold that panel to the door or missing the little screw on the side of the panel that holds it to the door. If the handle inside opens and closes freely then the door panel shouldn’t be affecting it.
@@dannydoitall3312 oh ok. my neigbhor did say the other thing could be maybe if they didn't properly connect something inside the door. i should have written down everything he told me right after. i can't remember how he said it. although i suppose the only way to tell is by taking the whole panel off and seeing the parts underneith
