How not to repair an idle problem -- no diagnostics, just throw parts at it! Follow this advice and I hope you have lots of money. And don't forget: Sometimes those new Chinese replacement parts are worse than the good one you're throwing away. Good luck! Learn how use good equipment to diagnose problems and you'll save lots of work, lots of time and lots of money.
Thank you for your honesty. In my situation, the parts total for everything I had done was less than $150 and I used OEM parts from Mopar (you know, the same things you get when the dealership repairs your vehicle). If you are on that tight of a budget you cannot afford to get new spark plugs (basically a routine service item) then you'd certainly not be able to pay a mechanic parts + labor to change your plugs anyway. So, with that said, what I did on my wife's Jeep worked great and solved the rough idle. If it would not have fixed it, there still would be nothing wrong with replacing the parts/sensors I did. 👍🏻
Hi I have a 2007 Liberty 3.7L V6, 117,000 miles. Owned it since 67,000 miles. It operated perfectly for the first 30,000 miles and then it started getting a #1 Cyl misfire code P0301. It also seldomly gets a #1 cyl fuel injector circuit open P0201. It must be a very mild fault as the misfire freeze frame data shows it always happens at less than 350 rpm and when cleared it comes back immediately at next startup, cold or hot. So it seems to only happen once on startup as its moving up to regular idle speed. The miss isnt noticeable when driving or idling. Its getting 15.5 mpg fuel mileage. Doesnt burn oil. Doesnt smoke. Has great power. I've changed plugs and coils but no difference. Cleaned air intake, air filter, and ran cleaner through system. I've cleaned and inspected the injector plug and all wires but no difference. Dry / wet compression test of #1, 3 and 5 cylinders all read good: 160 / 175 psi. I'm wondering if there's a mild wire defect for that injector, or just a flakey connection somewhere. Has anyone tried to use a new set of compatible gauge wires and run them to a place closer to the injector control? I can't see where the wires go though. I'm not sure if I should just live with this, or troubleshoot it more. I don’t care about the engine light as we don't have emission requirements. Now that I know the compression is good, I'm not so worried about it. Any suggestions of what to do next? Thanks!
I have a jeep same year same motor it had same codes but once i replaced the coil sensor and all spark plugs it still showed the code for the cylinder so what i did i switched the plug (plug with wires that conects to coil) i put the plug from the cylinder #4 on the #2 and the #2 on #4 and started the car then turned it off and put them back how they should go and code went off for cylinder misfire but now it turns on and it will stay on for a bit but then it turns off if you dont keep foot on the gas and if you press hard on gas it acts like it chokes so now i wanna know WTF its wrong with it?? it shows codes for like oxygen sensor monitor and oxygen sensor heater monitor but I didn’t have time to check them out till tomorrow.. IF SOME ONE KNOW WHAT COULD BE WITH THE PROBLEM I HAVE PLEASE LET ME KNOW…
@2rpromotions318 ohm test all the fuel injectors as they sit in the rail. Disconnect the wire plug and test each. Should read 12 to 15 ohms. If higher or lower by much, it is the fuel injector. Replace as needed. That was my issue. I has 2 that were going bad. I bought a set of 6 rebuilds on ebay for $80. Replaced the two that were reading 48 and 52 ohms.
@@thesetruths1404 I changed the MAP sensor and the higher exhaust temperature sensor, all spark plugs cleaned air flow senaor and throttle body and its running like new…
Had bad cats that made it not run cleaned all the screen out and put them back on . Has a rough idle now has new plugs and coils no codes any idea what the problem could be ?
I have a problem with the Liberty 2005 group. It malfunctions when the car heats up. It only takes one spare, number three. I wish I could be thankful.
Greetings, hopefully you could help me to find out the name of a part I need to replace. It's made of calamita and it's located between the ignition switch and the conmutador under the steering wheel. The tip broke and it doesn't late me turns the key to the starting position.
Hey Alfred! I think you may be talking about the ignition switch actuator pin. It's a piece of soft metal that often times becomes very brittle and eventually will get to the point where you can turn the key but absolutely nothing happens (engine will not crank at all, and the starter relay will not even click similar to what you would hear with a dead battery). If that is what you are talking about my suggestion is to replace the pin and the ignition switch at the same time. The reason is because you have to take the ignition switch out in order to replace the pin, so you may as well put all new parts in at that time. Hope that helps.
There are two lines by the EVAP canister on the drivers side in front of the gas tank. Follow the lines and you will see a couple small sections of rubber hose - they can crack and end up leaking. There are two lines under the hood on the drivers side behind the engine against the firewall. There are also two steel lines that come across the bottom of the body to the engine compartment. Then there are two pieces of rubber hose that join the lines that go to the EVAP purge solenoid... The EVAP purge solenoid is the round thing next to the battery with two rubber hoses and a electrical connector. Follow the lines from it and you should see one goes up to the top near the throttle body. There is a T fitting in the one line. Check the ends of all these hoses for cracking (dry rot, weather, basically old looking cracked rubber). I would assume if you know it's a leak in the EVAP system you are probably getting it from a code from the check engine light. Hopefully by checking and replacing some of the lines it should fix the issue (that's my assumption anyway - cracked rubber line leaking somewhere). Hope that helps!
You shouldn't have to. It is located on the intake manifold at the front of the engine. Granted it is not easy to get to; however with small hands and a little patience you should be able to do it without removing the serpentine belt and other components.
i have the exact yr make and model. And i have idle problems as well as you did i have replaced spark plugs also. thank you for that very helpful tip. My question is do these liberty’s always sound loud? I thought it was just mine. I looked for holes in the muffler & exhaust. Replaced my catalytic converter already. So if its suppose to be a little loud then ill feel a little more comfortable.
Hi Vanessa. I am so sorry for the delay in replying. I have always felt the Liberty's were loud. It's not an obnoxious kind of loud, just louder than what you would expect. I don't think you have anything to worry about unless it starts to sound like one of those little cars with the big noisy mufflers hanging out of the back - then it might be time for a new muffler lol. Again, sorry for the delay.
My dodge nitro has the same engine, it shakes when it’s idling we replaced intake manifold spark plugs, coils, injectors, throttle body, ignition cabals and it’s still shakes only on idle whatttt is the problem?????
Does the whole vehicle shake but it idles at a smooth consistent RPM? If the whole vehicle is shaking and you don't have any engine issues I'd look at your motor mounts.
Hey Tony! So, after doing all of that I think the culprit might have been the camshaft position sensor. While the spark plugs, cleaning the throttle body, PCV valve, etc were all good routine maintenance items, I think it was the CPS.
I have a cylinder 4 misfire and multiple cylinder misfire any suggestions? I just did a oil change cause it needed on but I noticed while I was under there right beside the oil filter there is a very small hose just hanging there like it should be plugged into something looks like a vacuum any idea as to what that could be I really need to get it on a rack but not able to at the moment plz help also if anyone has a problem with it throwing codes for all 4 o2 sensors look on the bottom of the engine front passenger side I had a ground work its way loose idk if this is common or somebody left it like that but it solved my problem with that
