Thank you for sharing your video. I'm a girl and with ur help was able to do this job. They wanted to charge $225. Also realized my intake hose had dry rotted. My car is running great now.Thanks again!
thank you for the video . upon my own research of trying to find out why the vehicle was hesitating upon acceleration , it was said that one of the problems could be the spark plugs or ignition coils. your video showed me how to replace them both rather than taking it to a shop which would have been hundreds of dollars just for labor . THE PROBLEM WAS FIXED!!!. It was worth it.
Thanks for the video, it help me out so much. I had problems, because 2 of the bolts on the intake manifold were on there really tight and I ended up rounding the heads, had to buy some grip-tite sockets, but other than that, this video was super helpful. I had to change all the ignition coils and spark plugs. The mechanic wanted way too much. Just wanted to say thanks, I really appreciate it, you saved me a bunch of money.
exactly the problem i’m having my socket just keeps sliding off the bolt i’ve been trying to change them for months i don’t k ow how to get it and don’t have $500 for someone else to do it
@@davisdondada I bought these Grip-Tite sockets at my local car parts, the helped me out, I bought both the metric and the SAE sets. Hopefully it helps you out. m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200810185_200810185
What a pain in the ass this was to do. I was able to get everything taken apart, but putting the intake manifold back on was a hassle. When I first took it off, I had kept the bracket in the back on because I couldn’t get the bolt to break free. So I loosened up the screw above it instead. Only when putting it back on did I realize it needed to come off. Ended up having my buddy come over to give some suggestions. He took a hammer, smacked the bracket, and in doing so, it broke loose. Thankfully the dealer had a couple in stock for $1.50 a piece. Aside from that, my intake hose had to be replaced because it was all dry rotted. So roughly $130 all together. $36 for the plugs, $15 for a new gasket to the intake manifold and throttle body, and $82 for the air intake hose. Now for tips when doing this: DO NOT mess with cleaning the throttle body on this because it’s an electronic throttle body. Should you do this, you might throw it off, and have to have the throttle body relearn the idle. Sure it’s a simple process (Search: Nissan throttle body idle on RU-vid), but unless you want to fight with it, I’d advise against it. I cleaned my mine, and got a SES light. The code I got was P0507, which is for high idle. This trips when idle is atleast 200 over the standard 700+50 r/min. Now I did not have to relearn mine as I simply removed the battery cables for 10 mins to clear, and my idle is to normal. Another tip is, if your air intake hose is cracked or dry rotted, make SURE you have the correct one. On some of them, they have a hole for a small hose to sit on. This hose is so the transmission can breathe. So don’t be fooled by price. Pay attention to details like that. My car is a 2012 Nissan Sentra SL 2.0 engine.
Brett Nesbitt after watching this video f#ck that the car is running fine so I’m not going to mess with it Nissan has a lot of balls designing the car like that I did my wife’s Rogue was so easy 15 minutes but a different engine 2.5 L no excuse for this one I never seen anything like that I could do it but give me a break you are basically taking off almost the top half of the engine just to change the plugs ! maybe later when I feel more motivated I’ll give it a shot but till then the car is fine so don’t fix what isn’t broken (79k miles)
John Yomtov Honestly just do it when you reach the 90k-100k range. I did mine at 95k. Yes it’s a pain in the ass, but I don’t plan on ever taking this apart to do again in the future. Just one time thing I hope.
Brett Nesbitt That’s what I think I m going to do plus I think I’ll change the coil packs while I have it apart I have a 2010 Sentra SR I think I’ll also use irdium plugs too my 11 Rogue SV AWD 2.5 L used them runs great the Sentra 2.0L uses Platinum plus plugs but they also say irdium are better and can be used any thoughts ? Thanks for your time Also Nissan has some balls designing this engine like that I sometimes think they do it deliberately so you have to get the dealer to do it ! Thanks again.
John Yomtov You will want to use Iridium spark plugs as that’s what’s in there now. I also suggest changing them on a cold engine because one downside to the 2.0 engine is that if you change them on a hot engine, you may crack the header and/or cylinder wall.
A couple tips to make things easier on those vacuum hoses. After you slide back the clip, use those pliers on that same area to grip the hose and turn it with the pliers clockwise and counter. That usually makes it come off smoothly when you pull, or use a flat tip screwdriver ( instead of said finger ) and push it as you pull with the other hand. I also use 1/4 drive socket sets in those tighter areas around the intake. It's lighter and easier. I use snap on 10mm 1/4 impact swivel socket and Milwaukee cordless impact.👍 If you invest in tools those will be your best friend.
Hace cuatro años miré esta clase, hoy Viernes 16 de Junio del 2023 vuelvo a mirar este tutorial, es una excelente clase, presente cordial saludo desde Navojoa Sonora México 🎉
this only applies to the 2.0L engine... I have an SE-R (non v spec) 2.5L. I believe it's the same engine in the altima. had to follow that video. but your video helped me out a lot! best part about the 2.5L, intake manifold goes towards back of car, not front, thus exposing plugs n coils n I only had to remove 1 piece sweet geezus :)
I wish you hadn't fast forwarded through some of the reconnections at the end. When you said to reinstall the air intake duct, I did so, but I missed the first part where you reconnected the purge volume control valve solenoid electrical connector. Once I had everything reassembled, it started up but was running really rough and I couldn't figure out why. It might have helped to specifically call out every reconnection the same way you called out every disconnection so nothing gets missed (especially if you took a break for lunch between disassembly and reassembly like I did). It's a tight space, and it's sometimes hard to see all the hoses and connectors at a glance. Just as a warning to others who might attempt this - when reconnecting, go back and maybe watch the disassembly stage again to keep all the hoses and connections fresh in your mind, since it can be easy to overlook during the double-speed sections of the video.
Back in the old days, when spark plugs were good for 15k miles, it took fifteen minutes to change them. Now they're good for 70,000 miles and it takes two hours to change them.
Chapter listings in this video would be so helpful so I can visually read the steps on my phone as I go. All the things you have to do seem OVERWHELMING! I’ve never had a car that took so much undoing just to change the spark plugs
Great Video - Hate the music! You did a really nice job of explaining your steps, etc. and your timing was so good the music wasn't needed to fill any space and it is a stark contrast to the relaxed steady mood you are setting.
just a tip after I cleaned my throttle body, i moved the butterfly valve to fully open and close when i was cleaning it and when started it, the engine started surging. the TPS is very delicate so if you wanna clean it all you have to relearn it, or if u dont wanna, and its still looks kinda clean, u can just wipe the back and front so you wont be inconvenienced to relearn it.
I've got an '08 Sentra SE-R and it was slightly different than this. Thank goodness I didn't have to remove the intake manifold to get to the plugs, they were right on top under the plastic cover. 3 screws and then a few more for each of the spark plugs. Unfortunately new plugs didn't fix my misfiring engine (P0303 code). Next up, fuel injectors... They're behind the throttle body which should be fun.
when you have it all apart its a great idea to clean the throttle body too! i just did a nissan sentra and before you do this whole job make SURE THAT YOU DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL. i used throttle body cleaner. dont be afraid to move the throat plate while cleaning it. you cant mess it up. make sure you get all that black gunk out of there. you will notice a difference in power afterwards. it wont mess the throttle body up cleaning it. no codes came on for me because of disconnecting the battery prior to doing the tune up.
I tried to get the bolt off on the lower right corner of the throttle body (hardest one to get to). At this point the bolt stripped, and I’ve tried special sockets to help remove it that did not work. I’m at the point where I want to roll this car into a fucking lake. Any advice?
Great video, very useful. If I may, two questions: torque on spark plugs? And did you deem it necessary to replace the gasket on the intake manifold? Many thanks.
Do you think it's a good practice to cover each manifold with a cloth or shop towel..? Thanks for the step by step how to replace spark plugs as well as the ignition coil on this vehicke. It's a little different from the older model Sentra ( accessibility ).
Is it necessary to remove all those items in order to get to the spark plugs?? Also I have an 09 car and wanted to know if the coils was all that’s needed to change then out or does their have to be more to that??
I have a question that i hope the author or another commenter can answer. A short way into the video, he removes a bolt holding down a bracket which is attached to the manifold. This is when he dropped the phone or camera. He says it is 10mm but it definitely was larger than 10 on my 2008 sentra but that isn’t really important. I dropped mine and it didn’t fall through to the ground, and I can’t see where it went. I also found a black widow directly under the manifold so I won’t be sticking my arm down there and feeling for it. So, what are the specs of the bolt if I need to buy a replacement? Length and thread pitch. I tried looking at diagrams of the engine but the bolt didn’t appear on any of the images I browsed. Other than dropping the bolt the replacement went great, thanks to this guide. Thanks!
Hey benny, glad to hear you were able to get this project knocked out. Sorry to hear that one of the bolts fell through, I absolutely hate it when that happens. 😅 In terms of the bolt specs, I don't think anyone is going to be able to tell off the top of there head. Your best bet is probably going to be to continue trying to find the replacement. If you go to a nissan dealership, the parts department may be able to help source one. Or, you could try fitting some of the other bolts you had to remove until you find one with a similar thread pattern. Nissan often reuses the same bolt in multiple locations.
what kind of gasket glue for the throttle body and intake? Also,i returned a set of plugs because they were incorrectly gapped so check the gap!(the kid at the store then took a disc gapper and started prying it to widen the gap.He probably damaged the plug.I got my money back and bought elsewhere. Lotsa clueless kids working at these auto parts stores...beware of their advice).
Do you remember all the parts you needed? Like gaskets and stuff? I can't find very much info online in fourms, and I want to make sure I cross my Ts and dot my Is.
Wow unbelievable I don't have to go through all that with my 11 Spec V just the engine cover and the other side and that's it right on to the ignition coils and spark plugs just a minute
You forgot anti seize for the plugs you should have disconnected the battery and if you blow off the block with air from a compressor for all the dirt than you don’t have to worry about getting dirt inside the intake valves also you should have changed the PVC value also and touching the end of the plugs with your fingers won’t hurt them you just don’t want to drop them or tap the bottoms of the plugs because that can change the gap opening and the 11SeR has a 2.5 liter engine and yours has a 2.0 liter engine big difference come man WTF try extension on some of those hard to reach bolts again never do anything like changing plugs or electrical work without DISCONNECTING the battery !!!! I hope you put in Irdium plugs and not Platinum back in and there’s nothing special about that engine it’s typical Nissan doing another stupid fucking design
what is the gapping supposed to be for 2012 Sentra SR? i heard some new spark plugs are not always gapped correctly. What torque specs did you use for spark plugs?
Any tips,?the intake cover bolts, I got the one furthest to the right in front and then the back under throttle body left. I don't wanna spray anything but this one at the bottom I CANNOT budge it at all and only have so much room for leverage and using a small socket wrench cuz I'm poor, Im afraid the tip of bold is a little messed up from slipping, not stripped yet but getting there
Firstly, thank you for making this video. It's well explained and is going to make changing the spark plugs alot easier for me. Also, What kind of spark plugs did you buy? I bought Bosch Double Platinum 8121 but havent installed them yet. Are those any good?
I can't actually remember which sparkplugs I bought but platinum are the ones you want to get. Make sure to avoid touching the tips, if you get them dirty or you gap them it could ruin the plug
No, I wouldn't try cleaning them or you could make it worse.. It's just a precaution you want to take, if you accidentally touch it, it probably won't be the end of the world.
@@zohebsaz you also wanna make sure that gap is the correct size before you buy. they always have the spark plug guage up on the check out counter I believe its .035 for this vehicle
07-12 Nissan Sentra OEM spark plugs are actually the Denso iridium ones, just picked them up at my Nissan Dealership and they come pre-gapped already, you can also find them cheaper at Autozone or O'reileys
Given that you didn’t disconnect the battery, did your check engine light come on and stay on when you switched the car on afterwards. It should’ve come on.
I have a legitimate question it's not about the spark plugs which this video is very helpful by the way but I installed that same cold air intake and I have a check engine light that wont go away is there a performance chip I have to buy the tune it or something?
Have you run the code? You can buy a bluetooth obdii reader for like 5 bucks and I believe there are free apps in the apps store to scan for faults. Most likely it's a P0101 code, in which case you would want to check all of your fittings to make sure there isn't a leak.
@@thecarizon504 its says maf sensor and transmission speed sensor but I just replaced them.so that means I did something wrong I guess does your rubber tube sit on your headlamp wiring?
Do you still have this car? The electric connection at 5:36 has completely disappeared on me after changing plugs and putting everything back together. I need help knowing where it starts or something
I do, but finding where that harness starts would be difficult as it probably traces deep / behind the engine. It shouldn't have wandered off far, I would keep checking in the area below the throttle body.
Would it also be a good idea to replace the air intake gasket and throttle bottle gasket at the same time since you already have it apart? Planning on doing it this weekend and was wondering the gasket location for both
Help! I replaced the spark plugs with iridiums, now it’s misfiring. What are your thoughts? I’m thinking air got in vacuum lines or replacing plugs with non iridium, or coils.
Found at an autozone, they are specific for spark plug changes and have a magnet on the end. I believe I mentioned the size but if not, I can look it up.
Thank you. I was trying to look it up. I know you said 14mm but there was a variety and with everything going on, I don’t want to buy something I can’t return. I can double check with my autozone. Thank you
It is recommended that you do so. I hadn't bought one but the gasket looked to be in good shape so I didn't change it. It's only like $8 online so I would get one.
It should be easy to take out and install, looked like just a thin rubber piece that snaps into place. Would just need a bit of grease on the outside to seal.
Was too, hadn't gone as far as to remove the intake manifold before. If you have a decent set of tools and have worked on your car before should be easy. Only thing you'll want to be extra careful of is make sure to not drop anything into the intake ports or through the cylinder head where the spark plug goes. Also don't touch the tip of the spark plug or you could ruin it. Be careful not to just drop it into place either. Lower it down carefully so you don't gap it.
You kinda glossed right over torquing down the spark plugs... just saying. I mean with the packs it won't let them come right back up into the hood but not something I'd just hand tighten normally. Otherwise great video.
@the carizone So I'm about to change my spark plugs and I've got NGK iridium plugs. If I accidentally touch that part of the plug you said not to is the part ruined?
Proba ly not, the biggest thing is if you change the gap of the plug by bending the tip even a bit. You don't want to get oils from your hand on it either but it's not the end of the world if you do.
General rule of thumb is you should disconnect the battery any time you are unplugging anything. In this case you are unplugging the coil packs so you should go ahead and disconnect the negative terminal.
So am I missing something here I can get my old lugs out but the replacement plugs are a different size socket and the socket that fits the new ones is too big for the hole
I replaced my sparkplugs and coils and my car still misfired. I'm going to remove it all again today and put a new gasket on to see if that fixes the problem
Thanks. I bought one. You do a great job dude! I am in my 60's and was a true motor head up till my mid thirties. We pulled engines, trannies (not the new kind, lol). But the new engines intimidated me. Until I found your video and channel! The dealer wanted 2000 and another shop wanted 1500. Once I got this thing open, the valve cover was cracked. The entire job cost me about 400 plus a metric socket set. 2.0 only has 114, 000 and looking at the head ( I use high mileage oil and keep it changed) it looks new. Does not use any oil to speak of and I have had this thing across the country. Thanks for what you do sir. Subscribed and triple thumbs up. Love how you present it too.
The Final Frontier That job is no way $2000 dollars as I am a gear head myself old and new cars they cannot justify charging that changing the plugs on a FWD 3.5 V6 was harder than that and it wasn’t no where near $ 2000 it was in the hundreds and that job was a bigger pain in the ass
I think you should have cleaned the intake plenum thoroughly. I assure you it had it's share of oil. All that oil on your valves got sucked through the pcv. It to relieve the crankcase of positive pressure, but that intake hose is sucking too. If you put a quality oil catch can in between the PVC flow, you'll get a cleaner burn, your pistons, chambers, & sparkplugs won't carbon up so easily and your cats will last 10x longer. The pcv system on cars of all makes, sends oil from the pcv back through the combustion chamber then out the exhaust to just fry on your precious cats. Those cats are 200° to 900° sometimes. Just one on my car is $1200.00 If you get a catch can. make sure it has a drain and no filter to atmosphere. You be disgusted what the can catches. I seen a man on here with a V8 and he has 2 cans, back to back. Drains them at oil changes. It was gross.
You're really only worried about overtightening when it comes to spark plugs. You just need to tighten it so it seals correctly. Probably did somewhere in the range of 30-40 foot pounds if I had to guess.
The correct spec is 14 ft/lbs or 19nm. When I did mine on my wife’s T31 X-Trail which uses the same motor I was going to torque them up with my 450mm torque wrench but it wasn’t clicking as I kept tightening so I didn’t trust it. It’s really bad news if you over tighten and crack the case. I just tightened mine with a 300mm socket wrench about 3 more half turns from when they were hand tightened to the max. Better to under tighten then over tighten in this case. 19nm isn’t a lot. That’s about the same to tighten water pump bolts. I think I tightened mine to about 15nm from feel.
