Several reasons why your video is the best (I think I watched most of them): 1) stabbing bag saves a lot of time, but mine were completely flat anyway. Saves a lot of time not removing a bunch of panels 2) The pry bar is way better than trying to use needle nose as some suggested. 3) You don't mess with the fuses or detaching battery which are not necessary, so long as you are careful to not open doors while on jack stands. 4) You show how to orient the bag to get it in 5) your recommendation about using the key slot to help align the upper slot was very helpful when trying to blindly put the top part of bag in. My issues following your procedure, but nothing to do with your directions. (btw I am a noob): 1) The after market bags I had seem to not have a push-in air tube, I did have to loosen it and tighten it, just pushing it in did not work. 2) The people who serviced the car last over tightened all the lug nuts on the wheels. I had to go to a shop to help me get them off, even with breaker bar I couldn't do it. They broke one of their sockets while doing it, and they had to destroy one lug nut to get it off. This cost me essentially a day of not being able to get the wheels off. This is bad, I can imagine being stuck on the side of the road trying to change the tire but not being able to get the wheel off. 3) I had to buy a different jack because mine did not lift it high enough to get it on the jack stands 4) The first bag took me almost all day with above mentioned problems (again I am a noob), the second one only took about 45 minutes. 5) Seems that the bags are working the ride was a little better, not slamming on every bump, the suspension level dash light stopped blinking, and the compressor does not run every time I turn on the car, but the ride is still rough. slamming hitting bigger bumps. No idea why. It still does not look like ride height is right. Still looks low. Any idea why? So great directions, I seem to have been able to follow them but the results are somewhat disappointing, not sure why ride is still bad.
Have you checked the actual air pump? Or the lines? Saw a couple videos where people put off their air spring replacement & ended up having to replace the pump/compressor.
@@llChrisTjllyes this was teh actual problem, it was full of water. Replacing that was actually easier than replacing the air springs. Only problem is I have a slight leak I need to fix in one of the air hoses.
Simplest and most useful video for this. Took me an hour start to finish. Hardest part is the rubber protector cap and inserting the part back up into the car. Just need this video and the usual patience. My air hose was able to pop out of the original part so I simply screwed it back into the new part. Literally saved $000s. Lower car slowly. at right height compressor will kick in while car is running. Thanks, Woody!
I just used your video as a model on how to do this. Followed the instructions and steps. Just test drove the car and had the "why did I do not this sooner" moment because it drove so much better. Thank you
So I’ve now done the job. Little did I know I started with the unit that would not come out… had to remove trim in the boot and bang the air unit out as previous owner had bodged it in. Second air unit came out as easy as you showed. All done both sides 2 hours. Worth nothing that when you only have the top of the air unit attached, it feels loose but it is in.
Great Vid Woody - Thanks a Mil. I have to do mine and I too like the idea of puncturing to lose the pressure (unless anyone has a very good reason not to) as do not want to get under the vehicle and pull off that entire panel that's held on with "those clips that break the second you even look at them". To disable the suspension compressor though you can just pull Fuse 32 (40A) (located in the main fuse box, under the dash / glovebox passenger side - Not the one in the boot) I'm taking that approach because every other time I have disconnected the power completely I've had a collection of nightmares / errors galore when powering back up.
Great video and tips to fix the rear air sagging suspension! Thank you very much. Please share the aftermarket Rear Air Suspension that you have bought for $150/EA. I need to change my right rear's on my X5 as well.
Hi. Great video and very good presentation. You mention that you recommend to use OEM parts but I see that the brand you use to replace is Arnottt Contitech. Is that an after market? Thank you.
I watched your video, it is helpful. After I replaced the airbags, I turned on the car while it is jacked and the air compressor is not running. The instruction is not to lower the car after installation while the airbag is no pressure. Do you know if I need to lower the car on the ground in order to activate the level sensors/air compressor to pump the airbags? Thanks
Great video, I have to replace leaking bags on my 2016 X6M. Most of the DIY videos show you have to remove a panel under passenger side to unplug compressor and release unscrew pressure values to deflate the bags. I actually like your idea of puncturing a hole in bag, quick and easy way to deflate the bag. Can I do same thing for my X6M? I will disconnect battery as a safety measure.
I fixed the rear airbag suspension and replaced them but it didn't inflate, I checked the feus number 40 which is for the air suspension, and checked the air suspension relay which could cause this issue by not switching on and off or the air compressor itself is wet, any ideas?
Buddy great video, I have a 2016 with 60,000 miles. It’s sagging from the rear at least once a week. If it’s really leaking air why doesn’t it do it every day?
I have changed the air bags on my 2009 X5 diesel about a month ago and today I have noticed is gone down half way and the suspension on the car is pretty rough. The compressor has worked because it has to reach a certain level to start ( I think). Any idea what the problem would be?
