I was able to adjust preload by taking seat and side panel off. I used a flathead screw driver to loosen/tighten nut and my hand to adjust spring. Took me about 30 minutes to get the setting right with the help of someone measuring for me.
Im 6'1'' 250 just bought a new DRZsm and got the 6.3 rear spring and just tightened the compression settings on the front forks and its perfect for me. Thanks for the advice SportbikeWrench!
@bandguy360 It would be important to set the rear spring tension correctly first of all and get the rear sag correct. Once that was done, set compression and rebound damping. Then move to the front forks and see what you get for SAG numbers. Make changes to the fork rebound for chassis balance and compression for brake dive. If you find you are at the extreme ends of the settings, then consider investing in the suspension to create a range of adjustment that you can use. Dave Moss Host
@HS2707 no problem. If you turn the screw to the right till it stops and then count back the number of clicks that will help you get it right. Under the forks you will turn it counter clockwise until it stops and then count back the other way. The adjuster is upside down so the adjustment is backwards as you are looking down on the fork. If you were laid down under the fork the adjustment would be clockwise then counter clockwise. Dave Moss Host
@peaviner if you tighten up low and high speed compression and move the forks in the triple clamps by 10mm so there's more weight on the front wheel, yes. Dave Moss Host
@HS2707 if the bike has stock suspension you set high speed compression at 1/2 a turn out and low speed compression at 1 turn out for the shock. For the forks, compression should be 1-2 turns out depending on the type of track you are riding only. Rebound settings must be done hot and is based on mileage skill, ambient and track temps that day. Dave Moss Host
Springs for the forks will be around $125-150 for the pair and the shock spring will be the same. Yes, it is a simple operation for a dealer to do to install the springs.
@alybelle14 sag set up will depend on track design. Normally, 90-150mm in the rear and the same in the front. Remember to extend the suspension front and rear before measuring! You can set compression in the middle of the range and set rebound when the oil is smoking hot in the forks and shock. Dave Moss Host
I would replace the rear shock spring first, then set sag and check the forks for dive based on fork compression being closed ad then back 3 clicks. If you feel there's too much dive, replace the fork springs. Play with rebound to try to get the bike balanced. Dave Moss Host
Preload for the rear is easily adjusted by removing the mud guard in front of rear tire. So explain again how you have to disassemble everything on the back end to get to preload???? You must be working on Yamahammers too much.
The dealer certainly can do that task. It is easier to pull the shock and have them add 9 turns of preload to it. Ideally at Chris' weight you would respring the shock and forks. Dave Moss Host
Dear Dave, while measuring free sag, u keep the bike on side stand which leads a less free sag. May I ask why? And what does it mean (and what to change) for ex. if free sag is less and dynamic sag(rider mounted) is high ? Thanks
Try Langston Racing for the springs or Race tech, plus Progressive Springs as sources. I'd say 5.5 to 6.0 would be fine given your weight. Lowering? No, that wouldn't help unless you did that internally with the forks and shock professionally and that's expensive.
@zardjali I have not had the time or money to adjust thee rear end yet. After I replace my cam chain tensioner that will be the next thing on the list.
What's the difference between "damping" and "dampening"? Should sag be measured with the rider completely seated on the bike, as opposed to flatfooting it?
Hi Dave, I have a new 2012 DR-Z400S. I use my bike for street mostly but will go off road from time to time to have some real fun. No huge jumps or anything, but a little rippin' it up. I weigh 200lbs. What do you suggest I do to make this bike more user friendly? Thank you for the great video!
I have a 2009 400sm. I only ride it on the street for commuting and for fun. Nothing serious. I weigh 170lbs. Are the stock suspension settings correct for my weight, or should I have the setup evaluated and adjusted? Thanks for the video!
I'm about Chris's size and am considering buying a DRZ-400 SM. Could I just go to my dealer and have them adjust the suspension so it doesn't sag as much? Or what would be the best solution, because it doesn't seem safe to ride as is.
@HumanJoseph hi! did u adjust your rear end on your drz400sm yet? cos im around 220 pounds fully geared on my drz400sm. tell me please what have u done. thanks! chers!
Hi dave, got an 08 drz400sm. im weigh 60kg would like to know what is the best race sag setup for it. n when i adjust the sag the comp n rebound damping should full hard or soft? n how to get the correct rebound n compression settings? i dnt feel good riding the bike feels like the front is softer than the back.
i'm 5'9" about 170lbs i sat on a DRZ today and found i had to tippy toe on it. Would you suggest messing with the ride height or considering another model?
hi,I'm 172 pound and 5.8.I'm looking at new springs and getting a lot of mixed results which is probably due to most of them not knowing SM well enough and are better with dirt bikes or does track,which I'm not interested in.I'm an advanced road rider, but no track or dirt. how does a 5.8 for the shock and a 0.56 for the fork sound like? also having trouble locating fork springs that stiff as none of the ones I found were more than 0.47. would lowering the drz be recommended for handling? Thanks
good news everyone... he's ENTIRELY WRONG about having to take the bike half apart to make this adjustment... the only two things that HAVE TO come off, are the two side panels... maybe he's just trying to keep his mechanic friends in business? Anyway... just adjusted mine with nothing more than an 8mm socket (seat & side panels), a hammer, and a LONG, heavy duty standard screwdriver... you can LOOSEN the locking ring on the shifter side of the bike (sneek screwdriver in between carb and frame, while looking through between airbox and frame (or something like that), and you can tighten the adjustment ring from the opposite side of the bike (just to the left of shock)... now, i only had to tighten mine, so, i do not know how hard it is to DECREASE the preload... anyone know if the stock spring is good for 220 lbs rider? OR is there a point where a stronger spring should be swapped in?
+etyrnal p.s. i just used a piece of log about 18" across, and about mid-shin-high to gold up the bike. You don't HAVE to have a fancy bike stand -- although i intend to get one everntually
+CommieCat well I was referring to the rear shock, but I guess ultimately I would be asking about having the entire bike setup for my weight. Which is I don't know somewhere between 200 and 220. does the color of the spring make any difference? are different rated Springs different colors? Or is it purely an aesthetic then?
The difference is English vs American in terms of pronunciation although they both refer to motorcycle suspension hydraulics. In the showroom series, we flatfoot people to get a ballpark number to look at. If it was a full evaluation at the track, I would have the bike in a sport chock with the rider seated correctly with feet on the pegs in full gear. The difference is due to precision riding and chassis performance in a controlled environment not available on the street. Bike World gone!
Stick a longish flat bladed screwdriver past the shock reservoir, tap it with a hammer to loosen the rings and then turn the rings to your desired ride height in the same manner.
