2008 Toyota Sienna Blend Door Actuator Replacement 

This is helpful, but I agree with other commenters that it is not necessary to disassemble to this degree. The bottom screw is accessible, and the top screw can be removed (with some difficulty) with a stubby screwdriver or an offset screw driver. The third screw is inaccessible. To get to it, remove the kick plate by the gas pedal, the trim panel under the steering wheel (the various switches will need to be disconnected as well as the OBD port at the bottom). A metal plate under that trim panel needs to be removed as does a black plastic box that routes air for the lower vent. You can see the third screw pretty easily after removing the black plastic box. To align the pins, set the control switch to defrost with the part plugged in but not connected to the vents. Then, by hand, manipulate the three doors controlled by the unit until air only blows through the defroster. Line up the part, and while holding it in place have another person change the settings to floor, head, etc., to make sure the unit is aligned properly and air is flowing out the right vents. It took me a few tries - I started with the floor setting, but ultimately starting with defrost only worked for me.

This is hands down the best video for replacing the mode door actuator! It is, however, missing one critical step. How to align the pins from the doors to reinstall the actuator. (See 30:00 - 32:20) I found this simple procedure on the SiennnaChat forum that worked beautifully to get everything aligned. 1. Plug the power connector into the servo while it is NOT connected to the A/C box. 2. Turn ignition on and manually select "floor" with the mode button on the HVAC panel. The servo will then rotate to the appropriate floor position. Disconnect the power from the servo. 3. Now, turn on the A/C blower to MAX speed and (under the dash) manually move the control arms for the 3 flaps to direct all the airflow to the floor vents. With the blower on HIGH, the flaps will want to suck into position and stay there. 4. With the blower still blowing on MAX, lay in the floorboard with your head near the accelerator looking up at the A/C box... very carefully, set the servo assembly bracket alignment holes on the alignment pins in the AC box. The cam slots/tracks should match up with the control arm pins on the A/C box at this point and let the servo fully seat onto the alignment pins. Reinstall the 3 screws, connect wire harness, and test the various positions to ensure the servo assembly moves freely through all positions. For what it's worth, I had to make several attempts at step no. 4 before it fell into place.

For my 2008 Sienna LE with 231K mileage, I chose the windshield, defrost position on the instrument cluster which is all the way clockwise. I electrically connected the replacement mode actuator motor (Four Seasons brand from Rock-Auto) with grooved plate installed and rotated the mode selector all the way counterclockwise then all the way clockwise and noted which way the groove plate rotated. I positioned the knob at the defrost setting (fully clockwise). Next, I turned on the fan to the highest setting which holds the vents into position. Next, I laid a bath towel on the driver's side floor mat to protect my back. Next, I positioned myself under the dash facing upward with lots of light present. Next, I reached up to where the three levers where and pushed the top most lever to the right, the middle level lever to the left and finally the lowest lever (closest to my face) to my left which configures all vents to blow the maximum amount of air to the front windshield. Next, I position the grooved plate/motor combo onto the three projections knowing that the motor will rotate counterclockwise when the instrument cluster knob is rotated counterclockwise. If you see 2 tracks for which one projection will be placed into, you will choose the track that has the longest groove. With luck, when you get all 3 projections into their grooves, just hold by hand the plate/motor into position without installing the three screws. Have an assistant rotate the knob counterclockwise to the floor position. The motor and grooved plate should rotate counterclockwise completely without binding. If there is binding, remove the plate/motor and try again at the defrost position. When the plate/motor rotates completely without binding then install the 3 screws. Also, the blend actuator (Four Seasons from Rock Auto), near the glove box, should be replaced as well. You do not have to remove the radio, but everything else, like this video will show you, will facilitate removal of both actuators. I am almost 70 years old, and if I can do this so can you. Good Luck and Thank You for this video!

Fantastic vid, but thankfully I was able to get it done much easier without having to go through all that disassembly. Here are the steps which took me only an hour and a half and $35 to do, in case they can help anybody else! 1. Remove the smaller square-ish panel to the right of the gas pedal covering the actuators (4:45 - 5:00 in the video) 2. Remove the kickboard (9:59 - 10:26) 3. Remove the panel by the parking brake (10:27 - 11:16) 4. Remove the plastic panel underneath the steering wheel (11:17 - 13:03) 5. Remove the metal panel underneath that plastic panel (13:03 - 13:55) 6. Remove the black heater duct (17:33 - 18:34) 7. Remove the 3 screws holding the actuator in: 2 of them can be removed with a stubby phillips head screwdriver, and the last one close to the metal pillar can be removed with a regular length phillips head screwdriver (it won’t be perfectly straight on, but it still screws and unscrews easily without having to remove the pillar). 8. Remove the actuator and transfer the metal plate and plastic piece from the old one to the new one (25:30 - 27:48). I used a ‘Four Seasons’ brand actuator (driver’s side) from RockAuto for $29, and it fit perfectly without having to drill anything on the metal plate. Add the silicone grease (31:30) if you’ve got it (I didn’t…) 9. BEFORE PUTTING THE ACTUATOR BACK IN, turn on the car and set the A/C to defrost with max fan, have someone hold their hand up to the windshield to feel for the flow of air, and adjust each of the three levers that the actuator controls all the way to the left or right depending on whether or not the person says the flow gets stronger or weaker (stronger is what you’re aiming for). You could do it yourself, but you’d have to stand up and feel for the air after each adjustment, which takes more time and effort. 10. Turn off the car, plug the new actuator in, and then turn it back on. You should see the plastic plate turn (30:35 - 30:46) 11. Carefully maneuver the new actuator back in place, making sure not to force anything. I gently wiggled it around until the three screw holes lined up with their proper locations (which also have little pegs to keep it in place, too). I had the 2 easy screws nearby to put in by hand to help keep it in place before tightening anything down. Make sure to put the third screw near the metal pillar back in, too. 12. Tighten the screws down before testing the different A/C settings (defrost, front, feet) to make sure that the moving levers don’t pop the actuator out of place. If it isn’t working properly, remove the actuator again (sorry) and repeat the defrost process, making sure you’re getting maximum airflow out of the dashboard vents right underneath the windshield before putting the actuator back in. Make sure when you’re putting it in, too, that you don’t accidentally move any of the levers out of place. 13. Put everything back together. Thanks again so much for the video, and for everybody in the comments who contributed useful tips and tricks!

I think this video is pretty instructive, still, I can't believe that you tore the vehicle down that far. I had to take the bolts off the driver's side bottom panel, and the the small side panel next to the gas petal and that is it. I had to reach my arms around the parts but I was still able to do it all in a couple of hours.

This is a total PITA job. I just did it on a 2004 Camry with the same groved actuator plate. Thank you for taking the time to post this. I did find you do not need to remove the plate, it only goes on one way so you just need to plug it in and select the proper vent position. which is not easy. The three actuator arms that go to the plate need to each be in a certain position. The motor will move to correct position when you press the climate control buttons. It took an hour of uncomfortable under dash reaching up to flip the three levers to various positions to find out what each one actually does. You need a second person to press buttons as you work underneath and let the motor spin. Head/Feet/dash/ defrost etc. then you need to manipulate those arms until the air only exits defrost position. Then have assistant press defrost position on the dash, let the motor spin the plate and once it has reached its end of spin, line it up. Press the motor into position and hold it there while they try the other positions. you will see it spin, if it hangs up, one of the arms is not in the right position. Keep trying. After 10-12 combinations, I eventually got it working all positions. thanks for the help.

Your video is vividly detailed as to what needs to be done to replace the blend door actuator. Thank you for taking the time to make this. I was told that the cost to have this job done would be between $800 & $1000. The Toyota part alone was $288. I found one for $25. Your comment about needing to be very careful when removing the back plate to attach the new motor was very helpful as was your comments about drilling out the hole on the plate to make it fit the aftermarket actuator. I must say that I felt intimidated when you said it took you a half an hour to remount the new actuator inside the car. I must have gotten lucky, because it took me less than five minutes to do. I found that lining up the bottom pin and the far upper right pin went easily but the upper left pin stayed outside of the assembly. I then mounted the assembly loosely, ( all 3 screws). Reaching up and guiding the upper left pin underneath the loosely mounted assembly it popped into place . Thank you again.

Well done sir! Thank very much for recording and posting this! Extremely helpful. Was able to replace all three actuators with your help. Lining up that top flap on the Mode actuator is the hardest part. Hang in there guys, just keep cycling between modes to get it seated properly

This is the video I needed! This exact motor went out on us (excessive clicking just like yours) so I just unplugged it over a year ago. I was able to snag a used motor from the junkyard and got it installed yesterday following your thorough disassembly instructions!

But why you did not remove engine? May be should be easier from engine compartment.

AT 82, FORMER MECHANI ETC, BEST VIDEO AND CLARITY OF INSTRUCTIONS AND LIGHTING ESPECIALLY LIGHTING, EVER!

Thank you for this comprehensive break down. Worked great. Definitely a lot of parts to take out. I suggest anyone doing this to go ahead and change out all 3 actuators. You saved me a lot od hassle and troubleshooting. That is priceless.

Thanks for this video. I liked how you included many details. I followed all the steps and when it came time to put the actuator in, it was very easy. I think this is one of those projects that you have to take a lot of parts off to get to the problem and I would recommend to anyone to follow these steps. Thanks again!

Getting the pins into the right grooves on the vents control plate proved to be very difficult. My final technique was slide myself close enough so i can look up at the pins and grooves while positioning the pins in grooves one at a time starting top left, then mid right, then bottom pin. Also take pictures as you open each area that seems complicated so you can trace back if at a loss.

The mechanic quoted us $1500 to fix two actuators. We used this video instead to do the work ourselves and saved $1200! It was a homeschool family project. Great hands-on learning for the kids! See the story at: learningtakesalifetime.home.blog

Great video. Thank you very much. You are correct getting the pins to align in the slots was the hardest part of the job. Thanks again

Absolutely fantastic video! I really appreciate your taking the time to show this job. You are a true gentleman. Thank you and your camera man so much. If you don't mind, what was the aftermarket par you used? Also, did it keep working?

The other two servo actuators are super easy (15 minute jobs) compared to this beast. Thank you for the video!

Best video with detail steps. I know for sure it saved me a lot of times and headache. Thank you.

I definitely appreciate you sharing your knowledge, very helpful video. I would not have oriented the new motor properly if I had not watched your video. Saved me big time!

This is one of the things that sold me on my 2012 Honda Fit. The blend door is mechanically actuated from the knob.

Man you saved me big time thanks for the perfect discription! This saved me!

Thank you,this video so helpful.İt took 3 hours to change the part.

Thank you for the video but I did not need to take anywhere near as much off. I was able to do it by removing the lower panel by the pedals and the under steering wheel and bracket panel along with that small vent tube only. If I had to do this again iam confident I could do it less than 30 munites

I just drilled a hole in the metal pillar hiding the 3rd screw enough to stick a phillips head screwdriver and take it off without dismantle the whole dash. It worked like butter for me

Mine would only blow a/c no heat. Guy replaced this part and gave me old part. Didn't know how much work is Involved in this job.$450 was worth every penny!!

Thanks for sharing your abilities in this video. It helps me a lot to understand my van's issue.

My hands just can't do this anymore. I was a mechanic but this is out of my comfort zone. BTW only negative negative terminal *ground needed removing.

Great video, incredible detail. Thanks! Just did this job. It's a bitch. I'm a bigger guy and getting to some of those screws is a real pain. I found that taking the console apart was unnecessary. I had to remove the kick plate next to the gas pedal, and the panel under the steering wheel along with the metal frame under the steering wheel. Those items may have not made a big difference, but any additional space you can gain to maneuver down there helps. Removing the black air duct was a must. Just go slow and careful and try not to drop any screws. The metal framework next to the unit partially obstructs access to the top right screw. But, I was able to access it with a regular-sized screwdiver at a slight angle. Slow and easy. The trick to reinstalling is to plug the unit back in and set the dash controls at defrost and the fan at full blast. I had to manually move one of the levers, so verify all the air is being directed to the windshield vents. That kept everything lined up for me and the unit worked. The top-left arm dropped out of position a couple of times as I was trying to reinstall. just kept moving it back into position with my hand and the air flow would hold it there.

Thank-You. I almost ordered this part for my 1998 Camry. My defrost "direction" not blowing air. My car is not making this noise. Hoping the flap is stuck. Still have to find a new mechanic before snow flies.

Thank you for the detailed video. The task is not complicated just tedious.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but you spent about 30 mins too long tearing down stuff that makes zero difference in this job. You can literally do the job without taking any of the dash apart at all using stubby and offset screwdrivers in less than half the time. I can’t believe you tore it down this far that’s insane. This is the type of job you see showing this crap in a service manual and realize there literally on drugs and don’t need to do any of that. Sure it makes it easy but that’s like saying to do the water pump you need to remove the engine (it actually says this btw lol) but you don’t. Crazy stuff man.

is there only 1 grove that the 3 follow or do they have to go in different groves?

Thanks a lot. This is exactly what I need to fix the same problem at the same car. Great job!

how do you diagnose which one you need to change seeing as the sienna has 3

Thank you so much for sharing this! Saved me $800!!!

This is a lot of work. how much do the mechanics charge for this job? I have same problem with my 2008 Sienna

Very helpful video. I did as you did on my 2004 Sienna. (very much the same) All good. Thanks.

By the way, I wouldn't have tackled this without the video. Thanks.

Driver's side timestamps 9:52 floor kick panel trim removed 10:19 vertical quarter panel on left 11:15 horizontal trim panel under steering wheel (bolts) 13:00 metal kick panel removal 24:30 removal of mode door actuator

Thank you for this video. I replaced the part and no more clicking However, i do believe I did not align the pins. Any tips on aligning the 3 pins?

After watching this video I realized that 1- I didn't have a motor 2- This was a much bigger job that I didn't have time to do and most importantly,my windshield had no air to defrost it in the coming winter SO Now knowing that the plate attached to the motor controlled air deflection ,I, in a last ditch move, grabbed the plastic wheel and forced it to turn and behold managed to turn it enough to get air on said windshield.The ironic thing is,NOW, the motor turns and I have both lower and upper air selection.Now how's that for having a horse shoe up my butt.I will set it on both and never touch it again. Thanks B.A.for giving me the location of all parts.

Do you remember before yours was fixed, where the air was stuck blowing? Was it stuck on blowing towards your face?

my blend door made the noise wen i tried to get defrost to work last winter so i reached underneath and helped it along and never moved it again now summer is here and a/c don't seem to be working right either, does this have anything do do with that? thanks for excellent video

Hello, my 2008 toyota sienna's heater core is hot but it blows cold air. Could you letme know what i need to replace inside the heater? Thank you! Tony

at 24:25 when you operate all the levers could you tell me which one does what? seems i have it all together and everything seemed to operate but now that it is cold it seems the heat does not come through rite and not very hot just like there is some outside air coming in. the motor and the arm/flapper on the right side seem to be operating correct and that is the one that determines hot/cold i think. any comments would be welcome

Thanks a Lot for the video, My Sienna 2008 LE is the same manual A/C , ut Im stucked in the Pin Aligment Step. I Mounted but dont self align. Any tips on aligning the 3 pins please?

can not quite see but are there 3 arms with pins to line up when going together????

Great vid. Question. The three dampers…. Are the motors all the same? My part store only has one motor part number. I am summing the motor attaches to three different plates to move the dampers. Great vid and planning to tackle this soon. Got that bad clicking from the dash!!!

That was a very painful DIY for you, did you ever felt that you were removing parts you were not suppose to remove ? Extra parts after reassembly?

The problem I have with mine is no heat in the back of the van you think is the same problem

Thanks for the video. Very helpful!

what is a good replacement brand to use, i do not want to go through this again

Thanks for the great video! It’ll save me $462.57! That is what Toyota Service wants....

Thank you for this video help a lot

My car blows hot air on driver side vent when AC is on but cold air on passenger side......will replacing blend door actuator fix the problem?

Thanks u save me a lot of money thanks again

It might be easier to just run that Toyota over a cliff.

my van don't make that noise but the noise it make is like paper moving on driver side warm air the other cold air but when driving all get cold if we stop it gets hot i was told it need freon when they put some seem like they took some out now it's blowing heat and he said the air condition line is not cold

Could this be the cause of the heat not working on the drivers side of my 2007 sienna?

Tore that interior up!! Wow.

I put air to my face it goes down someone help me please Toyota Sienna xle 2008

You mentioned to be careful not to break the clip that holds the black plate on the motor shaft. The clip is broken on mine. I considered siliconing it to the shaft. What do you think?

Can u show to how to line it up correctly for the reinstall?

I was wondering if I just unplug the servo and leave it unplugged, that will stop the noise for ever without taking anything apart ( of course the air duct won't work anymore). Would that trigger a CEL?

Thank you for this video.

Half an hour of work, and you disassemble half the car. You're probably getting paid by the hour.

Great detailed video.

did anyone include part numbers to order the parts for replacement?

Do you have a part number for the the replacement part.

If I buy a Toyota OEM part with the servo motor, metal bracket and big plastic pan (the part with the grooves), do I still need to disassemble the entire dash?

My 2008 Sienna does not blow air out of the foot vent nor the defrost vent, only out of the mid vents. I do not hear that clicking though. Could it be the same problem?

Great video! Thank you. Anyone have a part number for the actuator?

So my 2008 sienna blows cold ac on passenger side and warmer air on driver side. Would that part be the root cause and needs to be replaced? Great video btw

Thanks for sharing it.

Any way to open defrost like force open from outside

What is that part called sorry couldn't hear what he said

So will this be the same on the passenger side, my issue is hot on driver and rear, but passenger front is cold. That would be to the floor,dash and defrost on passenger side......is the heater box built for a dual climate control? as mine is single....thought they might have rigged up the heater box to be used in both instances.

It is possible to replace this without removing the center console. It was a royal beast, but I did it. The pins are a pain no matter how you do it!

At $110/hr....and i was told 7hrs. labour..... i’ll buy the parts and give it a shot

Next we are going to remove the engine and transmission...😂😆🤣

I'm familiar with replacing these motors on GM vehicles. The service manual says not to connect the motor without installing it first because it will go out of range and become inoperable. Is the same true with Toyota?

Thank you. How do I tell if it’s the blend door or mode door actuator that’s bad?

Seems like it binds u did not put it right.it took me 2 hours to play with it to get it right.it binded like in ur videos for first 100 times .the flappers hanging loose its not only motor in the right position but also i play with flappers.(32.22 binding one of pins did not fit in groove)

Thank you.

Thanks a lot

How many are there in a sienna? I saw two on the driver side, one next to other.

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With that much work I rather buy a pair of ear plugs when using the lower air duct.

Seriously, what is the guy doing, removing all that stuff just to replace one piece which is easily accessible without removing all that extra panels. If this guy was a mechanic, I would never take my car to him because he would charge well over book time. Ya this video is great if you want to learn how to remove all the panels in your car but WTF is the guy doing.

Thanks for posting. Unfortunately I've had to watch it on multiple occasions as these darn things keep going bad. Poor design

I will never buy this kind of stupid Japani technology. Even parts cast more then gold .