How to check and adjust the valve clearances on a 2009 BMW R1200RT Hexhead motorcycle. Get your spark plug boot puller here: www.wunderlicha... Spark plug thin wall socket (16 mm): www.wunderlicha...
Just done the clearances on my 2006 RT, this is after taking it a well known Bmw mechanic. My bike was unrideable afterward. It felt like the fuel was getting cut off at 3500 rpm. Now its back to being a blast! Going to do all my servicing myself now. Great video! Thanks.
Yep, back in the 70's and 60's nothing was covered up as far as engine parts were concerned, you could get to everything easily on any bike, only the racing bikes were covered like they are today for aero dynamics sake, I had a 76 r90, you could work on anything so easily, BMW's sure look so very different now days.
You dont have to do them all at the same time . I see a lot of people do do it that way but you really dont have to . You can do them one at a time if you only have one set of feelers just check and recheck . Also you dont need to take the lower spark plug out . Just the main one . Other than that , he did it perfectly .
Thanks for posting Chris you have saved me a lot of money. I own an 09 GS and had been considering checking the valve gaps but until I watched your video I didn't have the confidence to do it. The most difficult part of the job was finding TDC but as you suggest I placed a drinking straw down the spark plug hole.If I did it correctly my inlet valve gaps were too tight. Thanks again I have now subscribed.
Hi, just did both the valve clearances and the transmission oil change following your instructions. Very easy to follow and thorough, precise step by step videos that even someone with little diy skill can complete. Thumbs up and thank you for uploading these invaluable videos. My bike purrs like a kitten, love it. Oliver
I would think so, and here's how I base my answer.... On high performance, super high reving dirt bikes, those valves are going in and out a billion times a minute. (Not literally, but you get the idea.) The valve seats get the crap beat out of them, and they compact which allows the valve stem to stick further out and closer to the rocker arm. On dirt bikes, we put shims in between the rocker arm and valve stem....when the shims get smaller and smaller, I know the valves are "closing up." Eventually the valve "zeros out" and there is no adjustment left. The only thing to do is take the head apart and put new valve seats in. Might as well do the rest while in there, right? Same on the BMW, or any other bike. Hard revving is going to beat the valve seat up, make the valve stick out further and close the gap between the rocker arm and stem. Hence the need for an adjustment.
Good video...clear and concise. Well done! Will be using your videos as guides for maintaining my recently acquired 2006 R1200GS. Adjusted valves on my Bandit 1200, and this looks even easier than that (much fewer parts to remove to get that the adjusters and no spark plug well gaskets to misalign). Question: other than to replace it, why do you need to remove lower plug? Just a good idea to change plugs when you adjust valves? PS: love the big lab in the background!
I hope you're still checking comments. I noticed that you didn't see the need to use a torque wrench. How critical is it? I saw somewhere else that BMW wants you buy their bent rod tool that slips into a hole in the transmission (I think) to find TDC. I hope the pencil trick is good enough. Also, I didn't see the need to remove the bottom spark plugs. Funny, I rebuilt my ABS pump motor, but this makes me nervous. Thanks for the great video!
Chris Interesting! Thanks for your answer - I have adjusted the older 1150 and they have always been loose (and the rocker arm play which needed adjusting too). But that could be picking up the crappy dealer servicing where they get adjusted "warm"! I have yet to get my hands on the 1200.
These absolutely should NOT be adjusted warm, they will not be adjusted correctly, the bike HAS to be cold, it makes an enormous difference, I've helped build racing cars back in the 70's and found out just how much the metal can expand when cold to a little warm, the valves WILL NOT be adjusted correctly if a little warm. Learn how, do trial and error and do it your self as you can't really mess it up, the only thing you can do a bit wrong is adjust the valves a bit too tight or loose, the engine will still run but when I was learning I was told to re-check and re-check again, I was off a bit till I learned.
Hi. Good video. Very helpfull. There is a 2 deferent spark plugs for a cylinder. One is NGK DCPR8EKC and the other one is NGK DCPR8EIX. Do you know into which hole they fit?
I just came across this video, both sets use the same plugs, the difference in your codes for NGK is that one’s an iridium type, but you can use standard in all sockets.
Hi Chris! First of all, thanks for the videos! I had some question about your video: 1) Determining "top dead center" or "TDC" using the "line" (5:08), it should point directly "out" as in horizontal?, 2) having some "play" determines that the valves are TDC (Rt side 4:49 and Lt side 08:11)?, 3) does your bike have a total of four (4) spark plugs?, 4) to get both Rt and Lt side to be TDC, which method did you use while in top gear? 5) do you re-tight the rocker nut once done adjusting or do you leave it as is? (6:29) Thanks!
1 yes , as in horizontal 2 yup , once the piston is at tdc the valves will be fully closed and will move slightly . 3 yes , its called "twin spark" 4 just put it in 6th gear and then rotate the rear wheel to bring the piston up to TDC , 5 the lock nut should be TIGHT after adjustment . Its very important , you dont want it falling off !!
Hi Chris, do you have any videos and/or recommendations for 2007 R1200RT gear shift maintenance or potential full replacement. Mine fell apart on the Easter long weekend and has left me stuck in 1st gear. Looking to get back on the road ASAP. Cheers Glenn, P.S. love and very much appreciate all of your in depth tutorials.
Short answer, no...sorry. I've dabbled with changing gearing on my dirt bike(s), and that alone was a hassle. I can't imagine the RT being very easy. I'm sure the entire engine has to come out, and pesonally I'd only trust it to a professional. Sorry to hear that, and best of luck!
Chris Johnston ouch! hope it doesn't come to that but ok, I'll take your advice, check with the professionals and let you know how things go. Many thanks for the speedy reply, much appreciated.
Thanks for the video. 1. I don't currently have a thin wall sparkplug socket. Once the main plug is removed the compression pressure will be released thru the main plug hole. Other than inspecting the 2nd plug, is there a reason to remove it? (p.s. I'll remove and inspect the 2nd plug when I get the correct socket.) 2. Would using a marking tool to make the left side for TDC be a good idea to make it more simple in the future to find TDC?
I have 2007 R1200RT, do not have and engine or head guards/covers. Indeed the tupperware does needs to come off to remove the 2nd plug. Not sure if there will be enough flexibility in the tupperware if only the lower screws are removed. I'll post a comment back here after I find out...
Do you own a grinding wheel? I ground a sockets out side down so it would be a thin walled and fit inside as it needed to, worked very well, it did take some grinding and go slow with the grinding and check to see when it fits and go a bit more then your good.
