Thank you Kevin! I watched this about 1000 times and I've just finished changing the clutch on my Yaris MK2 1.0 It took me a lot longer than I thought but I did it.
I'm doing exactly the same right now but I feel like its taking me longer - I keep referring to various videos. The biggest pain for me was getting all the ancilliary items off with bolts at the rear of the motor where I couldn't see them and reaching them was almost impossible and then the problem of how ro suppoer the motor and gbox whilst separating them@@yueru33
Hello Kevin. I would like to thank you for guiding me through all the process and i have successfully changed my 2002 Toyota Yaris clutch kit. Which is quite similar engine. Hats off 👍
Glad to see someone succeeded! Also want to have a try. Just a quick question: did you leave the outer drive shaft in the wheel, or did you just left it in there and bent the brake over? I saw a lot of other videos removing the drive shaft completely, yet the staked wheel nut makes it hard to remove, and needs to be replaced with a new one afterwards. Thanks!
Perfect job Kevin, welldone! What a legendary step-by-step video, Make sure to add "Yaris 1.3" to the title it was identical. I must have watched this video 3 times over months to get everything ready!! ¬.¬ Took me around 4 hours, my biggest takeaway from the video was hunting down your mid-torque impact I ended up buying the gen 2 MILWAUKEE M18FMTIW2F12 what a game changer thanks!!! I needed to use a splitter for ball joints, hammered the **** out of them would not let go! Sending £20 on its way to paypal Kevin, thanks again!!!!!! Here is a quick write up i made you can take to the car with you, from the vid and with extras and torque settings from Toyota service manual Mark a piece of card for bell housing bolts to place in when removed 9 in total + starter motor bolt Jack up car high to get 4 jacks under, (maybe lift one side to get jack deep under onto mount bolt) Remove front wheels, chuck under for safety Drain gearbox oil, do up drain plug! Passenger side: Remove tray side guard (2 bolts 10mm) You may need to remove plastic under tray from front i did, about 8x 10mm screws Undo bottom wheel ball joint (ball joint splitter or Hammer) (Castle nut + clip) 98Nm* (when putting back if you cant get whole to line up tighten a little more) Undo lower link arm nut, disconnect (grips or Allen key) 74Nm* Drift out the driveshaft from gearbox with hammer & chisel Pull out and stow out the way Remove 2 bolts from bell housing at the front and next to clutch slave cylinder (wrench) Drivers side: Undo bottom wheel ball joint, Hammer & leaver or splitter (Castle nut + clip) 98Nm* (when putting back if you cant get whole to line up tighten a little more) Drift out the driveshaft from gearbox with hammer & chisel leave to the side remove 2 bolts above driveshaft spanner or extension wrench! (for starter?) 17mm & 14mm remove 4 bolts at the bottom of bell housing Remove 2 bolts from engine mounted under the centre and pull out engine mount 120Nm* Using block of wood Jack up sump just to take weight (when removing upper engine mount later) Under bonnet: Remove Battery, 10mm. Remove Battery tray 3 bolts (wrench) + cable clips Remove upper engine mount 7 bolts + cable clips Disconnect earthing lead 14mm Disconnect the 2 gear linkages pins Disconnect electrical connector Disconnect Linkages bracket (the 2 lower bolts) and stow up out the way Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder 6 bolts and tie up out of the way Remove top front bell housing bolt wrench Remove LAST 2 top bell housing bolts (wrench) next to gear selector bracket (care: gearbox will drop) *Carefully* go under and lower gearbox to floor!!!! Twist forward to lower down and out remember its heavy 15kg or more (took some wiggling to get it free) Clutch & Gearbox: Remember how the clutch sits before removing (photo!) Using screwdriver to hold fly wheel in place Remove the 6 bolts half turn at a time evenly and remove the clutch (Important note which way round the clutch plate goes springs face gearbox) Clean the plate and wipe with clutch brake cleaner, Clean rag!!! Before removing bearing check its correct positioning!! Clean gearbox, remove bearing, lightly re-grease arm/shaft replace the bearing check movement, grease spines lightly!!! Check clutch is the same and fits on splines! Fit new clutch with alignment tool, small dab loctite (blue) and torque bolts (Important note which way round the clutch plate goes springs face gearbox) Check its centered even all around, do them up in criss-cross pattern half turn at a time to clamp down spring pressure evenly Refit gearbox by tipping it forward and rotating back in to place, twist wiggle shaft back into place using a couple of bolts to hold in place Refit torque everything back in reverse, and then REFILL GEARBOX OIL!!!!!! ################################### Tools Required ----------------------------- Chisel + Hammer Long pry bar Ball joint Splitter Oil pan + Oil + syringe + Rags + Card 1/4" Short Ratchet + 10mm Socket 1/2" Rachet 1/2" Torque Wrench Spanners (both fixed & rachet) 10, 12, 14, 17 (tube for leaverage) 24mm Oil Allen Key (for sway link) Impact wrench + Short extention + Long extension + Universal joint Impact Sockets 1/2 - 10, 12, 14, 17, 21 4 Axel stands Trolley Jacks Large + small (to get one side up to get large under) Piece of wood to protect sump Brake cleaner + clean rag Loctite (blue) Clutch Kit 3 piece (as your taking it all off worth replacing for new, Advice to buy a quality brand as your going to the trouble to do this, it wouldn't be the fist time ive heard a clutch redone 6 months later) Clutch Alignment tool String/wire/bungee Shadow board for bolts Phone to take pictures if need be Good luck!
Thanks so much for a detailed write up. I genuinely appreciate the time and effort you have put into detailing the tools and materials needed. It will help a lot of other users of this channel. Kind regards. K-A. Williams.
I came here to look for the 'how to' on the Yaris as I am abiut to do one. I was wondering about torque settings amongst other things and this write up has it all. I am confident I can do this now.
Just finished the clutch on my 08 Yaris 1.5L gas. Almost exactly the same as this video. Original clutch at 210,000 miles, the rivets were starting to groove the pressure plate, but the flywheel was still good. (I dive like an old grandma). Shined up the flywheel with an orbital sander. The hardest part was getting the bell housing to let go of the dowel pins. I had to hammer and pry for an hour to get that off. Just as hard getting it to mate back on. Great video, thanks!!!
Not necessary to remove driveshafts from hubs, there's plenty of swing on that left strut to just put the shaft form the gearbox and just tie it up to the brake lines. You don't even need to touch the RH driveshaft, apart from levering it out of the gearbox. you can then just lift the gearbox away from the shaft when you remove it. Also it is quicker to take the single bolt from top engine mount rather than remove all the bolts on the inner wing bracket. One more tip, leave gearbox in gear when you are refitting as it helps the spline to go into the clutch plate.
I notice so many similarities with the Toyota IQ 09. Except there were 2 things which makes the IQ clutch one hell of a job. 1. A giant sub frame is in the way. The sub-frame stretches from the radiator to firewall. So you have 2 options: Drop the sub-frame OR lose the engine's sides engine mount, force the engine to one side to make room. (I took the second option, which I regretted). 2. The Driveshaft on the right is so much different. That particular Driveshaft is a steel rod comes out of the gearbox which is then secured to the oil pan by a bearing holder, follow by an inner CV joint, a rod then outer CV joint. What you'll find is the rod (which has is own bearing) is seized into the bearing holder by rust, makes removing this Driveshaft virtually impossible.
Vincent Ng absolutely correct. It’s the same with the Toyota Auris. I always leave that one drive shaft in. I’ve never managed to get one out. As for the subframe. I find the gearbox can just fit inside if it’s dropped down on one side a few inches. Burning question. Did you manage to get it done alright
Excellent video. I am going to replace the clutch on T Yarris1.0L 2006 too, so this video will be a guide for me.. The comment as e.g. subtitles would be great (what to be aware or where to take extra attention, or what to replace, what to clean,...etc...).
romiadam it’s a fairly straight forward repair. If you follow the video it should be pretty much self explanatory. If you are not sure about anything you can always send us a message.
Hello, Recently, I bought Toyota Yaris 2007, 1.3 VVT-i, MT, Engine: 2SZFE, French build, LHD, 114 000 km. I've a problem with the clutch pedal biting point, which is fully down to the floor for all of the gears. Sometimes when I try to shift into Reverse (even if the clutch pedal is fully depressed) a grinding noise is heard when I move the gear shift. If I push the pedal fully down on the floor, shift into 1st gear and release the pedal even 1-2 mm higher than the floor, I can feel that the car starts moving. Sometimes when I drive and switch from 1-st to 2-nd gear, the shifting of the gear is a bit difficult (the pedal must be strongly pressed fully to the floor). My leg gets tired after a long drive and sometimes I cannot make such a presure, so the difficult shifting problem appears. The pedal free play is around 17-18 mm. The push road play is 7-8 mm. The pedal height from the floor seems to be OK (It's a bit higher than the brake pedal). I can depresss the pedal fully to the bottom on the floor. When relased, the pedall gets back to its highest position normally. The pedal is not soft. The clutch has never been replaced. Service technicians said that I need a new clutch. I asked them if bleeding is needed, but they said that the clutch fork mooving is quite well far, so the hydraulic system is OK, and bleeding can even worse the problem. Here is how the clutch fork looks like when the pedall is fully released and fully depresed: drive.google.com/file/d/1Bd1y0MzWDXWIQeLhFrjiWu2JNkG9-veH/view I was wondering if the pedall free play rod can be adjusted, but I can't seen any adjustments on my master cylinder. Please see the left part of the figure bellow: drive.google.com/file/d/1wzsue-fkHt-FGJeaFHPUFynZFSDBeAdH/view Can you give me an advice?
this is a brilliant video for any diy guy wanting to have a go. what i like about this video the guy shows you what it is like in the real world lifting the box out on to your chest and the hardest bit getting the box to line up and back in. its a young man's game lifting gearboxes back in on your own.i did the Micra 2 years ago and i found it hard work as I'm 60 now. if you are a young chap give it a go you will save yourself at least £ 450 garage fees great video my friend. Tony Leics
talatos03 un bon Peut de voiture... normalement je travaile tous les voitures.... Joyeux noel pour vous a la famille..et bonne heureuse anne 2020....🌟✨
@@WMCS Thank you! I watched another video and he is taking a lot more parts off than you do. So I just wonder if your method only fits 1.0L model. I don't think they have that model in the US.
Hi - how similar is this engine/gearbox and procedure to the 1.33 L Yaris ? I have a 2011 Yaris with the 1.33L 6 speed engine and need to replace the clutch...
I got 2006 Toyota Yaris 1.0, mine reverse gear wasn't able go in popley and need to change the gearbox, done mine at home , plus it not easy when working on the floor . at the end I done my job and vehicle back on the road again 😏😏
So... I have the same car and it makes a slight rubbing sound when ever I disengage the clutch (depress the pedal). It seems like its louder in the morning but its there through out the day. Not sure what's the cause. Job seems like something I can do at home with the help of a friend. My question is, would I need any special tools when replacing the clutch (I read somewhere that I need a clutch alignment tool, don't know if that is really necessary) or if I need special tools to replace any of the bearings?
Tamrat Assefa if you look in my channel. I’ve recently started showing how to align a clutch. It’s a simple £5 clutch alignment tool .. you’ll definitely require it. The noise sounds to me like the thrust bearing. It’s easily replace as shown in the video. On the flip side of this. Is your vehicle a petrol or diesel. ..? Thanks
I saw another video where they remove the steering knuckle from the strut instead of the ball joint like you did. You’re way seems a lot easier, you don’t have to remove the entire shaft.
@@01123581321341 its not too bad I Fort at the time it was high as I wasn't used to the car But a year later it's going well. I have a Citroen C1 and I know I could adjust the clutch at the time and was thinking if I could on this vehicle . I'm a toyota yaris 2013 1.3lr
@@stephendixon3696 i would love if i could just adjust my clutch - a 2011 Yaris 1.33 6 speed. It needs replacing and i was worried it would be a pig of a job but after this video it doesn’t seem so bad
Hi, My 03 Yaris won't select gear intermittently. I notice the slave is not leaking and seems to operate the fork. Last time it happened I noticed I could select 1st after turning engine off but I feel a slight pull when I dip the clutch. Can you advise me as to what could be the problem? Thanks
Do i need to bleed the clutch if I replace the slave cylinder which comes part of the kit on a semi auto. Also how do i go about bleeding the clutch as there is no clutch pedal with the semi automatic. Any help would be appreciated.
Jack Jonson no. You can drop the whole thing down if you have a ramp. Or twist it round and pull it out sideways if you’re doing it in the floor using a crane.
Jack Jonson you could probably do it. But keep in mind you have about 10 inches to pull out the spline from the clutch and flywheel which may make it tricky due to how compact the engine is in the bay.
Hi, I have a 2011 Yaris 6 speed manual it wouldn't go into 4th gear when driving I can't figure out if it's the clutch or gearbox if anyone knows much appreciated. Thanks ☺️👍
It is necessary as you can see putting in the transaxle back in the engine drive shaft is tricky as it is already without also needed to align the other drive shaft at the same time.
Gordon I had a customer emailed me with a similar car. Apparently the clutch spline is different. But the pressure plate and the rest is the same. So I won’t work.
@Kevin-Albert Williams Does 1.33 petrol 2009 is harder? I have start stop and is slightly slipping on cold mornings. I noticed that release bearings is slightly different with triangle shaped patern to secure in to gearbox. I will choose valeo or blue print clutch. Can I buy valeo clutch with luk release bearing or its dosent matter which brand is release bearing? Prices is not that cheap considering the car. I done 4 clutches already and I need to prepare for any surprises will do this car to me. Thanks
how is there so little in this car yet it's so hard to maintain! i needed to change a light bulb the other day and needed to take apart it's entire front plastics... wtf toyota?
Jack Jonson it’s to guide you to the treasure and out again. I suppose I did this to help mechanic who already knows how to bolt and unbolt a clutch ...
Nope, this video is exactly what I needed! Plenty of other vlogs on clutch plate fitting out there so many thanks. Perfect. (Just wish you would stop all the chat and get on with the job! 😁) BTW, How do I find one of those balaclava mask thingies??
