Thanks for sharing. I got a 2013 Optima didn't think that the rear was that difficult for that one bolt. I worked on cars for 13 years and never seen anything that bad .
Did the rear brakes about a month ago. Drivers side everything went with no problems. The passenger side was a nightmare the shipping screws that hold the caliper took about 15 minutes to get out, heated them until thet were red, and used my impact driver. The bolts for the shock and lower control would not come out. Did get both bolts out, the worst part was trying to get the caliper piston back in. The hardware for the shock and control I put anti seize on for the next time. Just wanted to share my adventure with you. Thanks for sharing.
Im a mobile mechanic and just came across this on a 2012. I put up a video of how annoying this process was. A fellow mechanic who did a 2014 argued that I must be bad at my craft if I had such a difficult time because he did it in 5 minutes and didn’t have to pull the lower shock bolt 🙄. He’s been a tech for 7 years. I was happy to read you’ve been one for 13 and still had problems. Just reminds me some people are douchebags.
Great video! I just finished both sides in about 4 hours, and it went without a hitch. For those philips head screws, I sprayed them with Free All and they came right out with a hand driver. Just make sure you are using a #3 philips (that's the big one that most people have never used). A #2 will likely strip it.
Excellent video! I’m about to replace the brakes on my 2015 Optima. I had no idea the rear brakes were so involved. Thank you for preparing me in advance. You just saved me a lot of time (and aggravation)!
The instructions were perfect. The job was relatively easy once I got the right tools and the step by step instructions in this video. I would never have guessed that one of caliper bracket bolts was hidden.
Thanks for the video! I was literally attempting to replace the rear rotors on my 2006 Kia Optima last night and was perplexed that the caliper bracket bolt was squeezed behind suspension components (thanks Kia). Tried to get in there with a wrench and hammer the bolt loose but was unsuccessful. Ended up only changing the brake pads and hardware. Was a bit disappointed I couldn't get the full job done, but I feel better now after watching this and seeing how the job is unnecessarily difficult lol
Thank you for the video and the detailed steps. I was really intimated about taking this stuff a lose as I was anticipating having to take more of this stuff apart. I was so bothered by it that I had taken to the shop to ask them to look and they told me nothing was wrong. But something is and now I know I can just resolve the issue myself thanks to this video
Just a tip that I’ve learned: Take a longer bolt the same size thread as the small philips rotor screws and screw it into their holes and it will push the stuck rotor off in a snap. I learned this the hard way after pounding and a torch didn’t work....
Not sure how those longer screws would work in jacking the rotor off when the holes are threaded in the hub and not the rotor. You would need threaded holes in the rotor in order for those screws to act as jacks.
Great video thanks, I have 159,000 on my Optima. Brakes were replaced once and they said they turned the rotors. I was not there to verify they did take them off and turn them. I doubt it, so this time I want to take the rotors off and replace them when I replace the Pads. I was hoping it would be easier than what you showed needed to be done. I looked at them before and thought no manufacture would make it that difficult just to remove the rotor.. crazy..
Thank god I found this video. I've been wanting to do a full rear brake job on my 2012 and my rear shock are starting to creak so looks like I'll be doing both jobs at the same time.
I just did my 2012 EX rears and I was able to get away without dropping the shock. I just push it past it, scraped the shock a little. And for the arm I just put the bolt in backwards to put it back in and it worked great. Good tip is to also drop the arm down not up or you have to really pull on the rotor to get it back into place!
Well made video. Thank you for saving me from getting into looking at a handbrake issue for a neighbour on my driveway with minimal tools on a Saturday morning. I already know something's not right in the drums😅
@@TheOriginalBeeCee They changed me 600 to repair my rotor and new breaks last year. I need to replace my rotor and break fluid now it will cost me 500 for new rotors and tools
I used one of those z shaped is it goose? Spanner’s, it’s little by little but gets in there and takes bolt out. This is the only video I’ve seen where the emergency brake is not adjusted with a screw driver through the whole?
Such a genius idea here kia🙄 I'm a chrysler mechanic so we don't do too many of these but I love how engineers make it so difficult for the day to day person to work on their own vehicles.
**TIP** STOP REMOVING THE SHOCK ABSORBER! Just jack it up from the bottom. Camber tilts the shock and you have just enough room to remove the big bolt from the "alignment arm" (not sure the name of that arm that has the 19mm bolt that blocks the other caliper bracket bolt)
Remove the arm completely. It attaches with two bolts. Then attach the arm near the rotor first. It will slide right in. Then, use your 2nd jack to raise the assembly. This will allow the 2nd bolt of the arm to screw in easily. It is toward the center of the car. No headaches.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I saw it work in the video. But you kept making remarks several times on how you have to still work it and adjust with a screw driver...etc...to get it right. . I wanted to help so you don't have to do that at all.
Great job on a not so easy brake change. Anti seize on the blots thou vs lets say med thread locker? The other thing I will be doing on mine is take a wire brush / dremel with a wire brush attachment and clean the rust out on the hub and put anti seize on the hub.
Ive often wondered why rubber bushings aren't replaced while accessable. Any car over 5 years , rubber starts failing, cracking, etc. I have a 2013 KIA replaced the front struts , pads and rotors. This car is 8 years old and rubber is clearly starting to deteriorate. Is there a service that replaces just suspension bushings.?
Hey man great video. Quick question. If I just want to replace the pads, then once I remove the caliper, I can just remove them from the rotor and place the new ones and I’m done right? No need to remove the bracket? Unless they’re stuck on there of course
Thanks for this tutorial, I have a Kia Cerato Forte 2010 model, that carries a rear drum brake assembly. I want to change that system out and install a rotor disc brake assembly. What do I have to get to do the conversion. The reason I ask and want to do the conversion, where I'm from the drum is obsolete.
I’m not overly familiar with Kia’s options/setups, but you would need to pull the parts from the same model car if they came equipped with that option. You would need the knuckles/hubs, calipers/brackets, pads & rotors, e-brake setup/cable & hardware.
Great video bro!! If anyone has a 2016 Optima YOU WILL NOT have this issue. The bolts that are holding the brake assembly to the hub is actually 14mm on this particular year. The rod and strut being in the way was fixed on 2016 models.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Bro I watched your video first and was prepared to do it even though I was apprehensive lolol. I jacked the car up and took the tire off and my mouth dropped open 🤣 no lie.
on other cars ive worked on, you had to remove the cover for the master cylinder before compressing the piston. Do you not have to do that with a Optima?? Thanks for the great video
Before I jump into this. Is there a difference 2012 SX 2.0 Driver side is squealing bad the dealer said they replaced the brakes when I bought it. Its so bad and loud. But you should see how rusty the wheel looks after it rains. My question is about the ebrake too if its on the passenger or both sides as I am doing just driver rear? And is the removal of shock both sides for bracket removal? Thx in advance. I also asked because when I was about to order the brake kit it asked if I had electronic ebrake or manual.
The ebrake is on both sides. And the removal of everything is exactly the same on both sides. So from side to side, everything should fall in line exactly the same.
Great video and instructions my man. But I would have reversed the bolt for the upper arm anyway. By putting it back on the way it originally was, you just made it harder for the next person that wants to do this same job. Reversing it would have saved your fellow mechanic time & hassle, and saved the customer money because it would have taken a lot less time to remove the brake caliper bracket if the strut wouldn’t have to be moved out of the way. Not looking out for fellow mechanics and the customer. Thumbs down for that. And Kia sucks for doing things this way! But I gave your video a thumbs up because it was informative, will definitely save Kia optima owners money, and you included torque specs. I definitely reversed that bolt in my own car and I’m very glad I did. Just bought new rotors and pads because the ones I just slapped on 2 years ago are warped due to cheap brand. Now I got performance upgraded rotors and pads and will spend A LOT less time doing this job. 😊
You could. But the FSM and most manuals would suggest siphoning a bit of fluid from the reservoir to avoid spilling over when retracting the caliper piston. You could also get in the car and pump the brakes after each corner to get the fluid moving and back at the corner to avoid spilling over, which is typically all i do anymore.
Is there enough space to put a ratcheting wrench or open end on that lower bolt that way as you loosen it you can pull the rotor and bracket forward rather than backing the bolt out toward the lateral arm?
Naaaa man if it was that easy I would have just done it that way lol. But a couple others mentioned using a spanner wrench to do it..so whatever works. I did it by the book to include all the torque specs and everything. But a ratcheting wrench isnt fitting in there.
No problem I appreciate the comment. But it's been a while, I don't remember each specific one. I would just watch through it again and confirm each one, there was nothing crazy needed though.
@Danny Facio anytime a suspension component is removed, it is recommended and ideal to get an alignment. Honestly, the effects of this job if any are likely minimal because the two suspension bolts being removed aren’t adjustable or points used for an alignment adjustment, although the other end of the arm (bolt mounting arm to rear sub frame) is where alignment adjustments are made. So is it ideal? Yes. Can you get away without doing it? Yes lol.
@@ThatYoungThug LOL no not an alignment after the brakes themselves, on the rear of this vehicle if your gonna change the rotors as well , on the mounting caliper bracket the top bolt is obstructed by a suspension upper arm , that needs to be removed, to be able to access the fastener , that's why i inquired about a potential alignment.
Why did you change the rotors in the back? My rotors in the front are warped so I need to change those but I wasn't thinking about the rotorsin the back, just wondering why the backs would need to be changed.
As for this car, they weren’t in the best shape. And personally, whether its my own vehicle or a job (what this was) I do my best to leave no fail points, and typically when I do brakes for customers they let them get to a point where I wouldn’t want to re-use the rotors anyway. But as for some reasons they would need to be changed, rear hub bearing failure probably would be the biggest culprit to cause rotor failure. Also, some people let the rear pads get to virtually metal on metal which of course by that time, it would be time for new rotors.
I just did the front brakes and calipers when i got to tgose screws i just drilled them out with a drill bit there not needed to put back in on kias there for the rotor to stay on at the factory but i also used an impact tool and broke it
That’s exactly what they’re for. And no, you don’t have to put them back on. But I like to put them back on any vehicle thats equipped with them to keep it OE as possible....and 99% of the time I don’t damage or strip them when taking them out, so I am able too...like I was able to on this car.
They do work a lot of the time. But they also don’t sometimes.....but probably moreso depends on where you’re located, like in a rust prone area like me in the Northeast. I’ve had to torch them out for people who’ve stripped the screw heads with them, cause they were rust-welded in. From my experiences its really prominent in Honda’s, they’re always rusted solid.
I addressed this in a couple other comments.....but anytime a suspension component is removed, its recommended and ideal to get an alignment, or at least checked. Honestly the effects of this job are likely minimal because the two bolts being removed aren’t adjustable or points used for alignment adjustment, although the other end of the arm (bolt mounting arm to rear sub frame) is where alignment adjustments are made.
I mean, you can i guess. Personally, i like reassembling things as they were intended, and putting it back together as it came apart. When I do a job my goal is to do my best to make it look like someone was never in there.
Yea you can get away with just tightening them by feel, but of course torque specs are ideal. But 9.9/10 if your vehicle was in a real automotive shop they aren’t torquing shit to spec anyway.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks man I appreciate the help. the only thing thats got me shook is messing with the suspension parts but other than that seems simple.
1 more question I recently went out to buy silicone grease for the guide pins and brake pads but I only could findsuper tech silicone lubricant thats in a can will that still do the job?
@@fightlikegentlemen naaa thats not at all what you want. Thats for like helping rubber hoses for example slide on/off easily. These will be greases. You can a Permatex caliper grease and brake pad grease at a local parts store.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee man ive been at it for houra and I cant seem to realign the holes for the arm. I can hit the arm any higher then I need to be on one of the holes.
SergeantTubesocks anytime a suspension component is removed, its recommended and ideal to get an alignment. Honestly the effects of this job are likely minimal because the two bolts being removed aren’t adjustable or points used for alignment adjustment, although the other end of the arm (bolt mounting arm to rear sub frame) is where alignment adjustments are made. So an alignment would definitely be ideal to ensure all specs are correct.
Zamokwakhe Nkomo hey whats up man. This a actually isn’t my car. Its a neighbor of mine and I do all the maintenance on it. So if I ever do the rear brakes again or he needs to parking brake addressed, I’ll definitely do a video. I’m actually going to be doing spark plugs on it asap.
Depends on where, definitely don't want to lube the rotor itself up lol. But something that would be a good practice is cleaning up the hub bearing underneath, and lubing that before sliding the rotor on so it doesn't create a rusty weld next time you go to remove the rotors.
No, you shouldn’t have this obstacle on 2016, according to someone else who commented on this video...hence the reason the video is only listed to 2015.
Was going to replace my moms rotors and pads and saw that stupid bolt by the bushing. I’m in the rain and after I saw that I said fuck that lol that’s why I’d never buy a Kia other reasons also. Good video bud !!
Holy freaking Kia sucks! Can't believe how difficult they make it to take off that rear caliper! Thank you for instructions. Going to give this a shot myself tomorrow for first time. Will be lucky to get all 4 done... think I'll start w/ the front... ;o) I got 2 motor head neighbors to jump in as soon as I raise the white flag. Got some nice R1 Concept drilled and slotted and will actually try to paint the calipers black before putting everything back together. Will need a lot of luck. I'll be praying and listening to some K-Love on the job for some added heavenly support! ;o)
@@TheOriginalBeeCee couldn't even get the 2 rotor screws or caliper bolts off... I used a hammer impact screw remove and still ended up stripping them. Even used tons of PB blaster... My buddy rescued me and did the whole job for $250... All 4 rotors and brakes. Best money spent ever. 😁✌️
@@ChefRov ahh that sucks to hear man. Honestly heat and an impact is the true recipe for success on rotor screws. I got like a 98% rate with that method lol.
Thats wild, someone commented on this video like a week ago and said the same thing. I would make sure the hardware is perfect and not hanging you up. Maybe try getting the rear one in first as well, then install the front one.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I’m thinking I need new brackets. Only was able to finish one side before it starting snowing on Easter. Everywhere was closed and I had to drive 3 hours home to make it to work on Monday 😅😅😅
I also put the bolt through the control arm with the nut on the outside. This, as you say, was the way it came from the factory. The only reason they did it this way is that it enables you to use a punch to knock it out. Of course, the head hits the shock so the shock has to be moved out of the way. I'm not sure what is worse, trying this way or reversing the bolt and then having to pull it out somehow. Anyway, I used a c-clamp on the bolt head and nut area on the arm to push the bolt through everything. There is no room to use a punch on the bolt head when putting the bolt back to factory. Car is a pain in the ass. Of course, I had to deal with the electronic brack system. Jesus.
I see you just pressed in the rear pistons. So the rear calipers do not need that special e brake tool that winds down the piston. My last car needed a tool that screwed the rear piston back in the caliper. Ahh, i see now the e brake on this car is like a drum brake..
54 ft lbs is a miss print. There's no way that size bolt will stand that much torque. 35 - 40 lbs is plenty . The bolt that secures the arm to the spindle I can see 54 lbs . Pays to research the proper torque , service manuals are misleading at times .
...Exactly why I personally didn’t torque it to 54lbs in the video, & why I recommend & mention not too. 54lbs was a feasible value when I saw it...considering many car rear caliper bracket torque values are in a 50-70 range, and that torque insert is right from Kia’s factory service manual. But as I outlined in the video, 54lbs is indeed too high. As I said that torque value insert was right from the Kia FSM..I must say personally, I find it rare that service manuals are “‘misleading”, however I have come across what I’ve believed to be misprints in FSM’s a couple times, and this very well could be as well, as you mentioned. But if you have another source for torque specs other than service manual(s) or numerous opinions from others from Google, do share.
Well, that’s what you would do if you were just replacing the pads themselves, thats it. But bracket has to come off to remove/replace the rotors….which is what the purpose of this video and was outlined.
Why install a lug nut on the new rotor to hold it place? This is what the 2 small screws are for. Also there is a special tool available to remove those screws without heating them.
The "special tool" has never been that special, in my opinion. I've seen more people strip heads out of the screw than actually get them off when using the tool. Funny you mentioned this as well, because I just removed some rotor screws for someone with a torch/impact that couldn't get it out with the "special tool". Heat and impact is 100% guarantee on getting it out successfully. Depending on where you're located, the rotor retainer screws can be extremely rusty & stubborn. I've removed my fair share of these, and the only one I ever stripped, I didn't torch it first. Not worth risking it. And yes, the 2 small screws can hold the rotor in place just fine. Doing the lug nut method is more habit for me, not every vehicle is equipped with rotor retainer screws. Also, putting a lug nut to hold the rotor makes it easier to evenly screw those little rotor screws back in. Not to mention not everyone re-uses them, or get's them off un-damaged. And I mean it literally takes 3 seconds to thread/unthread a lug nut on there, really not that big of a deal either way lol. And like I mentioned in response to your other comment, just a potential recommendation, doesn't haven't to apply to every job/situation.
Whoever engineered this this way need to have there knees broken and thrown in a river. Also installing the bolt the other way would have avoided this crap process. Great video though!!
This is fucked up! There’s no way I can do this where I’m at!!! Or have all tools. Put everything back on until I can do it right thanks for detailed info
Appreciate it! And ehh I typically do lol. You can even look at some of my other videos, I have how-to’s on utilizing jack stands. I was just feeling frisky with this one lol.
bidderman1969 I understand completely, and truly sorry to hear that. Unfortunately, it isn’t unheard of. I rarely do it, and if I do like in this case, I never get under the car. But at the end of the day you’re right! Should always use them as a precaution!
Most of the time no, you don't need to bleed on a brake replacement. But if the fluid is dark, higher mileage, or loosing pressure, than yes, bleeding is definitely in order. Just a potential recommendation, doesn't haven't to apply to every job/situation.
