I prefer drain and fill, drive it for 1000 miles, drain and fill again, repeat until the fluid comes out like brand new fluid. The filter is metal mesh, doesn't need to be replaced. The magnet will still work. The new ATF will loosen some contaminants and varnish baked on the surface of the transmission. I am not an expert but that's what I was recommended and it fixed my transmission A750F which had 200k miles and a torque converter shudder. Now it's running perfect for 40k miles so far. You can do it at home easily.
I'm currently doing this on my 2004 Camry with 200k miles. Just after the first drain and fill (Toyota fluid), the shifting dramatically improved when things are cold. It jerked hard from 1st to 2nd, now it's 'buttery smooth'.
I developed a SEVERE torque converter shudder on my 07 4runner A750F at 180K. 1 Drain and fill at the dealership and my problem was completely gone within 50 miles. Hasn't come back for 10K so far. Now that I know the level is set correctly, I'll be doing drain and fills more frequently at home. Toyota WS only!
@@carter18622 Do more drain and fills, one drain and fill only replaces around 30% of the fluid. A lot of the old nasty ATF is still inside the torque converter. Do it until the fluid comes out clean. WS is very cheap.
@@LAactor Very tasty! I found an Armenian variety in the shop the other day.. a bit spicy for my taste but with a lot of oil and very delicious! Highly recommended for the summer BBQ!
Another way to do this is just do 3-4 drain and fills, don’t have to mess with cooler lines, or thermostats. Just measure what comes out, put that amount back in and repeat 2-3 more times. Of course run it through the gears after each drain/fill to circulate fluid. Done. I really like the Amsoil ATF as well. Nice product, for what’s its worth.
Did the same for my ‘15 TRD Pro. Flush and fill at 42K and I’ll drop the pan and filter at 100K. Bought 2 jugs of Castrol Dex6 and 2 jugs of Redline D6. Drained the pan of 4 quarts of what I assumed was factory filled World Standard and added the first jug of Castrol. Drove about 60 round trip miles half taking a business loop of a highway running the new fluid up and down the gears from 0-60 and stop and go traffic. Then taking the highway home hitting 70-80 to get a good rotation of the fluid. Then drained and filled with the second Castrol 4 quart jug and drove a normal work week. Then that weekend performed the same procedures with a superior fluid like RL/AMOL and add a couple bottles of Lucus ATF conditioners for the final fill.
I noticed my 2000 4runner got worse, I overfilled by probably half a quart and didn't drain any out for another thousand miles. Overfilling definitely made it worse. Bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix helped, but not completely back to normal.
Please do a proper fluid replacement video on your 2005 Sequoia Peter? The type with using the cooler return line to pump out old fluid? Many folks out there doing it, but I would trust the process if you had video for sure. :) Keep up the good work and thank you for taking the time to make the videos!
Did the same to my 17 Tacoma , drain and fill, drain and fill, drain and fill. Now drain and fill every 30,000. Currently 238,000 miles. Runs like a top. All fluids are Amsoil.
I've had 9 transmission flushes done on my 2003 Toyota Sequoia at 30k miles intervals. I'm approaching 290k miles and will get a 10th flush done at 300K miles. No issues whatsoever.
When you unscrew those transmission pan bolts, they may feel really tight. But it is best to use a torque wrench to put them back in, because if you think that they need to be, 'really tight, like they were when I took them out' you might over tighten them, and break one off in the transmission housing. You don't want them finger tight, so they eventually fall out, but you don't want to put them back in so tight that you bend the pan around the bolts, or crush the rubber gasket too much. Remember, there is no pressure on that liquid. It just sits in there, waiting to be picked up by the pump. If you don't have a torque wrench, it is a good idea to recheck the bolts after a week of use, to make sure that none are coming loose, and that there are no leaks. You can get some cheap 3/8 inch drive and/or 1/2 inch drive torque wrenches from Amazon. Get the 1/2 inch drive for lug and axle nuts. Unless you are working on your helicopter, they are accurate enough. Always release the spring tension after you finish using a torque wrench. You want a nice deep pan under that transmission pan when you remove it, because it holds a lot of oil. Be sure to put the same amount back in the transmission. You might need a cheap plastic pump, or a funnel and a long piece of clear plastic tubing to stick in the fill hole, and pour from above. If needed, you can seal the funnel to the tubing with tape, or maybe hot melt glue, which has a million uses. I used it to repair the tiny hub caps on my 2000 Ford Expedition. The glued ones are stronger than the expensive new ones.
I found the best way is to drain the pan and fill with 4 fresh quarts of fluid. Pin open the thermostat on the transmission that feeds the transmission cooler. Disconnect the discharge line from the cooler and place the hose in a 5 gallon bucket. Start the truck, and cycle from P-R-N-D-2-1 and back up to park within 45 seconds. That is how long it takes to pump out 4 quarts. Repeat this process until you have pumped out roughly 12 quarts of fluid. Reconnect the hose from the transmission cooler and un-pin the thermostat. Ensure transmission temperature is at operating temperature and make sure fluid is at the correct level. Now you are good for another 100k miles of normal driving.
Don't forget to refill the 4 quarts you removed from the pan and then repeat until all 11-12 quarts are out and replaced. Also, don't unpin the thermostat until the level is checked and correct.
I've done flushes with transmissions over 100,000, but used full synthetic WS ATF from BG Industries. There are other channels where AMSoil full synthetic ATF is used. If you decide NOT to perform a flush, at least drop and fill the fluid twice after reinstalling the pan/gasket. Its a process on these sealed transmissions but it can be performed. These Aisin designed transmissions are bullet proof and give years of trouble free service, but the Lifelong Toyota ATF is NOT lifelong.
I’m coming up on 180k miles on my 2010 tundra. I was thinking of having Toyota do the flush, and I come behind them and change out the filter and clean the drain pan and magnets. There would be less contamination this way.
If you live in the rust belt, please don’t do the filter. You will probably snap some of the fasteners off and to drill and make new treads is not fun. A 10 minute job (outside the rust belt) could well be a 10 days ordeal.
are you gonna show us how to do this? our gx has the same tranny and would appreciate a walk through on how to do this, especially the part where we have to check the temperature and level. edit: anyone know where i can find one of these aftermarket strainers for $40?
I thought this job may be straight forward but then I see RU-vid mechanics fucking around heat guns, temp guns and paper clips bridging wiring harnesses. Not a drain and fill confidence inspiring jobs to do in your driveway at home
I dear Peter I have a corolla 2012 with near 180k miles I dont know if before the transmision fuid has been changed, you recomend made a full fluid replacement?
2012 RAV4 Automatic , The parts guy at Toyota said not to change the filter cause the trany might not work so all I do is a Spill and fill every year .Is there a trick in changing the filter ??
Can you be more specific on what you mean by flush? I’m aware of drain/fill procedure and the BG flush. When you say flush are you referring to the process of hooking up the transmission system to a machine to cycle out all old fluid?
You can also do a similar flush type of procedure like Eric Cox said although he has a lot of steps. It is everyone's different opinion. But many just disconnect the trans lines and one pump out one pump in. Do until color of fluid coming out is cherry. My opinion, but I don't like the machines that reverse push the line.
You speak like you wanted to flush it. Would you have recommended a flush? I have never seen your flush machine to the point I think you do not have one. Personally I would just do three drain and fill and last one change the filter. I wish you would have said about if the metal magnets having the fine shavings was normal for that vehicle or not. I think that is good, maybe the vehicle was serviced before around 100k, who knows!
Can you please help me to identify, what is the exact amount(from your real experience) of T-IV oil needed for service with new filter for Scion Xb 2004 AT?
@@mitchreive9173 I am coming up on 90.000 miles. I asked the dealer to do a transmission fluid change and they said only if I’m having trans problems other then that no need for a fluid change.
@@Bunkysworkshop I have a 2016 Tundra and had the dealership do a flush of the transmission system at 70,000 miles. They said the old fluid was pretty dirty. Glad I got it replaced. Will probably do it again at 120,000 miles.
Is seapage normal after replacing the gasket? I had my gasket replaced on a 16 4runner by the dealer and now there is seapage. And they said it is normal.
Definitely not Normal. It just means they didn’t take the necessary time to do it right. If they replaced the gasket, they may not have cleaned the mating surfaces well enough so the gasket isn’t sealed fully against the mating surfaces. You can try tightening each bolt around the pan by another 1/4 or half turn and see if that works (worked once for me on a seeping transmission on my 01 highlander). If that doesn’t work then the only way to get rid of it is to redo the job. You may want to drive it for awhile first though too and check the fluid level after a few months. Like I said, I had seepage from my 01 highlander which had a transmission dipstick, so I watched the level for about a year and even though it seeps, the fluid level never went down that I noticed. It may not cause you any problems in other words so drive it for another 50-60k miles and just redo the job yourself then.
Oh and it may be good just to double check the torque on each bolt around the drain pan with a torque wrench. They may not have all of the bolts evenly or adequately tight.
WS looks like trash after 20k miles in most of these Aisin transmissions, HOWEVER.... the used oil analysis shows it to be still doing its job in many cases. I’ve seen these things go north of 250,000 with ZERO service. Now would I recommend, condone or do such a thing? HELL NO!!!! The sad truth is 99% of morons on the road NEGLECT their transmissions. Yet scratch their heads and cuss the car/truck when it S***s the bed....
