In this video, you can see how I replaced the rear wheel bearings in my 2014 Chevy Caprice PPV. The same process should work for the Pontiac G8 and the Chevy SS Sedan which use the same parts. ⏲ Video Chapters ⏲ 00:00 - Intro 00:33 - Overview 01:59 - Demo Bad Wheel Bearing 03:22 - Install Bearings 05:45 - Removal Start - Left Rear 09:27 - Remove Wheel Speed Sensor 10:23 - Remove Stub Axle / Hub Spindle 14:37 - Remove Parking Brake Backing Plate / Knuckle 16:09 - Installation Start - On Car 22:59 - Install Left Rear Knuckle 25:17 - Tighten Axle Nut 28:20 - Install Wheel Speed Sensor 29:32 - Install Brake Caliper Bracket 32:17 - Final Thoughts
As a former professional G.M. dealer service technician, I would personally recommend your videos to anyone. This is very helpful in every way, and checks all the boxes. Thank You for publishing your work with us here.
Well done, very thorough! However, I couldn't help but laugh that you had multiple special service tools and you used a claw hammer with a punch. Not knocking ya, just made me chuckle. That and your audible click when applying the proper torque spec to the wheel speed sensor.
I have a subscription to a service manual for my 2014 Caprice through ALLDATADiy www.alldata.com/diy-us/en If you look on the www.newcaprice.com website you'll see discussions about how some public libraries have access to the Chilton online service manual.
Thanks for the info, good video. About to do this on my 2012 9C1. What about the most important step? Getting the old bearing out of the original knuckle?
You could use the bearing press kit that I used to press in the wheel hub into the bearing to extract the old bearing. You would need to use the appropriately sized plate on the back side of the bearing small enough to fit inside of the ring in the bearing hole. A cup from the kit that would rest on the outer lip of the knuckle so the when the bearing is pressed from the back side it will pull it into the cup on the front side of the knuckle. The other approach would be to use a bench press with the appropriately size plate from the bearing press kit to allow the bench press to press out the bearing. The bearing press kit that I used is an Orion Motor Tech kit and I purchased it from Amazon. amzn.to/4ciaHXl
@@RetroCarGuy530 I recommend to anyone attempting this to source as many new parts as possible as in the video. I just did the bearing on my 2012. Worst one I have ever done. I live in the desert and everything was stuck tight. I can't imagine doing this in the rust belt. Removing the axle from the hub required the puller shown in the video and a Dewalt impact gun on high. It just barely removed it. The slide hammer would not remove the hub, it was easier to leave it partially attached to the car and beat it out from the back. Use a sledge hammer, its stuck tight and will probably destroy the old bearing on the way out. You cant press it out with the brake backing plate still on, there is no way to hold it on the press. Once the hub was knocked out it still had the outer bearing race stuck on it. A bearing separator would not grab it. I heated it orange with a torch and got it halfway off with a chisel. After that I tried a bearing puller for differential bearings with an impact gun, still stuck tight. Eventually I cut it off. I then had to put the hub in the lathe to polish the shaft surface for install. Buy a new hub if you can find one, its worth it. With the hub out you can get the backing plate and e-brake off and press out the bearing. It took everything my 20 ton press had to remove it. Pressing in the new bearing also took full force from the press. Put the hub in the freezer overnight before you re-install, it will slip into the new bearing and not damage it from force. Use the impact to pull the axle back into the hub. The one time use axle nuts are unavailable from most parts sources, if you are careful they can be reused with some red Loctite and a punch. This video did give me all the steps for the project, but I wish I had more new parts. Unfortunately parts availability for these cars is difficult. I no longer have a vibration from the axle. Just need to align it now. Runs straight and fast. FYI: The local GM dealer to me quoted a very non committed $1100 per side for the bearing job and was having trouble finding the parts.
I did not buy the knuckles with the bearings already pressed into them. At 3:21 in the video, I show how I used a shop press to press in the bearings into the left and right knuckles.
At 11:43 in the video, I mention I had to get a Kent Moore J-42129 special service tool axle puller to fit the lug pattern correctly. The 7208 (no longer available) and the 7208A (mentioned in the service manual) don't actually fit the lug pattern spacing.
