@@alexstromberg7696 That's not safety. Safety is just keeping track of when it is so that it doesn't roll away on you and making sure you can't accientally put it in neutral without making it overly complicated, because the ability to roll a car on command is still necessary.
Anyone else look at the underside of that car and get a Car Mechanic Simulator vibe from the sharp contrast of pure rust brown and clean silver/grey parts?
Flipping hell I get so excited when I see a new video of yours! I don’t even care what it’s about. I’ve become so much more confident in taking on my own repairs just from learning here
Fun fact! Plastic oil pans exist because they direct NVH (Noise/Vibration/Harshness) downwards making a quieter running vehicle, as sound takes the path of least resistance. Hence plastic sump but metal skid plate!
this job pays 8hrs at my dodge dealership....i can have it done in under 1hr....hint...you just have to disconnect the lines and the two mounting bolts and the entire assembly can be snaked out the passanger side wheel well without removing anything....we call these racks in the durango and the grand cherokee "gravy" jobs
Can i give you a huge tip? Take off the inner tie rod. The book time for these is 8 hours. If you take off the inner tie rod on the driverside, the rack will come out in a matter of 45 mins. I do them all the time. My buddy showed me that trick. You dont have to take the axles, controls arms, or anything apart.
Plastic oil pan, is a thing in the 18 wheeler world because it lowers the engine running noise. A steal or aluminum oil pan and valve cover makes the noise echo or what its called. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I don't have a Durango, I don't have a Dodge, hell I don't even have an American car! But I still watch all the videos you make just because you are great at what you do!
Hey Mike! You dodged (lol pun not intended) a bullet with rebuilding the old rack. I attempted it with my 1987 Porsche 944. Wasted a lot of time and money and the damn thing leaked worse than before. I ended up buying a remanufactured unit in the end anyway lol. Great video as always and keep up the good work!
Had a 2011 Durango AWD. Replaced the front struts, front half shafts, upper and lower control arms on both sides, and had everything removed, replaced and off thejack stands in only 2.5 hours...
We never claimed to do anything quickly haha! Filming alone doubles or triples the amount of time anything takes. Then factor in the incompetence. It's amazing it didn't take me two months!
Fair point, that is certainly another option! It adds some weight and bulk to the hanging object but if you can't get the slide pins out or need it all off anyway that will usually work. Can be difficult to get brake pads back on that way sometimes though
That big block of iron is actually a tuned damper to reduce noise and vibration from the vehicle. It is tuned specifically to help eliminate high peak sounds that the vehicle produces, and gives the passengers a reduced level of interior noise/vibration.
At 9:30 the problem you have with the axle is the same as I have with my Eclipse, I have to unbolt the wire holder for the ABS sensor to let it tilt out a little bit more, it also helps to turn the steering full lock in one direction.
Thank you very much for sharing this information. A customer pulled in to my shop with the exact same vehicle/problem. I also checked the workshop manual first and thought about declining the job. Luckily I found your video and the swap was a breeze. Why the manufacturer tells you to tear the entire vehicle apart when it clearly can be done this way is beyond me.
I get you have never done this job before but simply shifting the hub towards the front of the vehicle will allow for enough space to remove the CV axle.
At 6:50 , I had this problem also. Almost 45 mins of hammering it still would not pop out. The holes on the back with the threads by the differential, I sprayed WD-40 in the holes and within two minutes of hammering it all came out. 2015 rt
Are you accusing them of over thinking this? Because I think they did - including a steel skid plate for a plastic oil pan. Genius! I'm glad you didn't have to do this in the winter. I'm looking forward to Part 2.
Every 30 seconds you gave me a reason not to like this car, plastic oil pan, stupid parts layout, horrible maintenance procedures, like removing an engine for a steering rack... nope.
thanks for the tip taking the inner left tie rod end worked for 2013 grand Cherokee lardeo i did not have to take diffental off save lot of time thanks again
I have a 1982 firebird and there is no power to anything not even the fuse box I have not been able to figure out why my best bet is that the wires are shot do you think I should change all of the wires for the car or just change the ones that need to be changed
2010 dodge charger... I had the "pleasure" of dropping the rear end (cradle) that contains the diff, cvs, hubs, shocks, springs...and more. But to do so, you have to move the fuel filler hose out of the way and drop the exhaust from the cats back, and a lot of patience. Once that was done I removed the one inner bolt holding the tension strut, replace strut... and put it all together. That said I love that car! it handles great, has enough power and is generally really fun to drive. Definitely worth doing again if it means keeping it for another 10 years. But yes... I feel your pain in this vid.
Did you have to replace the rear suspension cradle bushings? Apparently the bushing will separate from the cradle: testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/117365/000000003b9bc979
Just came across your video. About to do the same on a ‘14 Grand Cherokee. Fortunately for me, I’m also replacing both cv axles and tie rods. Would you think it necessary to still remove the front diff since both tie rods will be removed??
How did it turnout about to do this on a 5.7 hemi grand cherokee 2014? Did you end up removing the inner tie rod ends to make it easier to get the rack in and out?
Great video. Glad I didn't tackle this job. Getting older and don't really want to be laying on the cold concrete anymore. Although I think I could have done this myself it would have taking me more than the 6-8 hours of labor they were charging me. Markup on the parts is just frustrating. More than 100% markup on parts is just ridiculous. Thanks for posting the video.
Nicely done videos. You just have to watch South Main Auto for a while to learn how poorly engineered most Dodge, Jeep and Chrysler vehicles are. A steering rack failure on a 2011 with only 25K miles is hard to excuse and FCA doesn’t seem to care about serviceability or even, as your demonstrated, how to properly write service procedures. I’d never own one of these unreliable money pits out of warranty but FCA even sends their dealers info on how to avoid warranty repairs.
The complexity of modern cars is staggering. And this car is still almost 10 years old... An 8-step procedure that involves removing trim to find hidden levels to put the car in neutral?!?
I don’t often suggest going to the stealership, but with the service bulletin in hand I suggest folks go to the dealership. Offer to pay for an oil change and sometimes they will do the work without a huge fight. If they won’t just walk away and go to a reputable shop.
Oh cool! I job i already know how to do! I'm actually a dodge tech as a day job, and I've been doing these routinely since I started. But your absolutely correct to do it this way, as we also do not remove the subframe on this job. It differs slightly based on the model, but it really is generally just taking the inner tie rods of both units, unbolting the gear, and repeat to install. Good job!
@@sp1068 that’s correct. On v6s you actually have more clearance on the oil pan. The easiest way is to just remove the inner tie rods. If you run into clearance issues you just undo the motor mounts to raise the engine. After removing the inner tie rods and unbolting the rack, it should slide right out
#NeverDodge ..my family has been buying Dodge for literally decades. Since the 1960’s. They are absolute garbage vehicles and getting worse with every generation. The trans on my old dodge neon went well below 100k, family members have replaced transmissions in multiple dodge vans. They are money pits, unreliable, and do not last. I don’t understand why people continue to buy them, including members of my family LOL. I will never buy anything other than Toyota/Lexus for the rest of my life (unless their quality changes). I regularly see 25 year old Camrys on the road all over my town, still running like champs. Name another car like that. Hardly exists. But when it comes comes to Dodge, take the advice that the name implies...DODGE.
i think dodge like ford used car transmissions pushed in to van service to save money. ford used the Taurus transmissions in their Aerostar. the trans was on the margin in the Taurus, the extra weight of the fan pushed it over the edge.
Chrysler is literally incapable of designing a vehicle in an intelligent fashion. Im so sorry for your having to work on this POS. Also, how was this not under warranty at not even 30k miles???
Hey, I have a 2012 citadel I will be doing the same repair too, any chance you have info on which steering rack is needed? Or how to depict which one is needed? Their is the “sport” rack or the normal rack. It’s the only thing hanging me up from Fixing mine and I cannot find any info on how to diag which one is needed
Probably a very silly question but why doesn’t this dodge have warranty? If it does then I’m assuming warranty doesn’t cover this. Fantastic video and I can’t wait for part two I also hope your doing well!!
When breaking loose a ball joint, dont just take the nut off half way, Remove the nut all the way and then thread it back on half way or til the nut is flush with the ball joint stud, then knock it loose. this way u won't have to fight the ball joint stud spinning cause the nuts threads r still rusted on👍
Also if u don't have the correct tool for the caliper bolts, but the caliper bracket bolts r regular hex bolts, just remove the bracket with the caliper still attached to it, actually, do that anytime u need to just get the caliper out of the way, makes the hole rotating assembly lighter in cases like ur lift kit on the silverado🤘
@@Richard.Sanchez you would be surprised how many vehicles have weights like that. Some of the cameros had weights on brake pads to dampen vibrations. Lol
Hey fuzzy dice, we got a 2015 grand cherokee let’s hope this don’t happen to us. Also I want to know what model impact you got that tackled all your repairs and mods, I currently have air tools and a compressor that’s nowhere near the recommended capacity for my impact. I’m going to be switching to battery tools. I own a dewalt 1/4” impact driver that I use for little jobs currently and it’s been abused for a year straight and it’s still going despite having a little play in the hex shank shaft. Im considering to buy a DCF899M1 and only use the compressor for filling tires. Dewalt love ❤️
The bigger impact is the DCF899, fantastic tool. As long as you put a 5/6Amp battery on it there isn't a lot it won't loosen on a normal light duty vehicle. It's also quite heavy though, and using it laying on the floor is a real workout. More recently I got the DCF894 and I use that for most jobs now. It's almost half the weight and will loosen most fasteners without complaint. Every once in a while it doesn't quite have enough oomph so the DCF899 is a better one to go with first, the size and weight are really the only problems I've had with it.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects I’m fine with size I’m going to save up and get one of those, my 11 gallon plus 7 gallon air tank set up really sucks at only 120ish psi. I tried to turn up the cut out on my compressor only to find that the safety bleeder goes to work at 125 psi and the motor on my 20 year old compressor is now wanting to seize up on me since it’s 25 Degrees here in Chicago. I love the videos you guys are putting out and I love the approach to making these videos and I would love to see more. My garage is slowly getting equipped with the tools I need.
