Problem turned out to be broken wires between door and pillar. Schematics show switches as normally open when they are normally closed. Fast forward to 6:25 for the cause of the problem.
Just fixed this issue. So satisfying to fix an annoying problem like this yourself. I saw a different video about this issue but thanks for posting nonetheless. Good on ya.
Great video. Been dealing with this for months. Tried everything else. Didnt have to time or money to take it to the dealer. Fortunately for me I was able to buy a 3 dollar butt connector pack and not have to get a new wire assembly yet. Thanks again for a great video.
Just a heads up, the new wiring harness will do the exact same thing. I’m about to install another new harness for the fourth time on my 2013. It’s only the rear, driver side door wiring harness that I’ve had an issue with.
I'm sure it will since the design is crap. I've had it on the front driver door as well. Depends how many times you open and close the doors and aggravated by cold weather.
@@commercialelectrician133 yes the harness is pretty reasonable and difficult to fix properly where it breaks. Save the old harness in case you need to fix a broken wire in one of the other doors in the future since you could depin the terminals and transfer to another harness in the future. Good luck.
Has anyone made repairs on the Fron doors wiring harness due to the door ajar / dome lights and door lock issues? If you do; Could you give me some advice, how to REMOVE the CLIP from the Driver's door? (I would not like to damage it) My truck is a 2012 F-150. Thank you.
thanks for the info real good info I also replaced the rear left latch and my harness was also torn i replaced it . but still shows i have a broken ground my harness in my front door was good none broke?? there is a broken ground in the left kick panel can u please give me a lil info on that last piece thanks
I'm thinking this might be my issue as well... I used to be able to wiggle the housing and the issue would go away and now it's back and nothing is working to fix it now. I'll be ordering a new wire harness now. Thanks for the video!
Is there any good videos on taking the door panel harness out and installing the new one step by step? I’m sure I can do it! But it would make it a lot easier
@@PhillipBailey Part number is correct.About $80.Give them your vin.If truck was built in Dearborn you can get back half.If it wasn't the whole harness to dash is only option $400! According to Ford 6/1/20
Yes the only problem was it indicating the door open when it was not but there are several wires in this harness and depending on which one or more fail it could cause the power window or door lock to stop working. Its easy enough to inspect the harness yourself.
@@PhillipBailey I replaced the whole harness.For months I have been having a drain of battery.It would start 5 days in a row and then not start on new battery.I could jump it and drive all over then it would start for two days.This was actually before the door ajar warning light ever came on.I am hoping this was the power drain and just was not setting of the light early on. .
I’m having this problem on my 2012 Ford F-150. except it’s for the 2 front doors and it keeps running my battery dead because the lights kick on and of constantly!
Does the dash indicate which front door is ajar? Check for broken wires in the same location but at the front door connections. If I remember it's a pain in the ass to unplug them. Good luck.
If you have a late model 2010 or later, the fault is not in the switch. Check the wire in the boot between the B-pillar and the door. Strip back the boot and the tape. Bet you have broken wires.
You are correct it was broken wires replaced the door harness. What threw me off was the schematic shows the switch normally closed and its not. Thanks for the comment..
was the harness wires broken at the connector? If not then this was not the same problem. You may have a problem with the switch internal in the latch. Need to do some testing on the circuit before just changing parts based on case histories.
@@eldingo21 so what is it doing? Indicating the door is open when it's not or not open when it is? Probably the switch in the latch has failed. Need to test it with an ohm meter.