Amazing, helpful video brother! FYI - clutch actuator A controls only the odd forward gears (1, 3, 5). Actuator B controls even gears and reverse. Hope this helps if you experience skipping gears.
@@L8R-HP You did a great job! I removed my actuator B and tried to use a M6 spline tool to turn the forks, but the hole in the actuator well appeared to worn or stripped. I'll try to order the tool you recommend to turn them and see if it fits better. If not, I assume I will need to remove the transmission. Thanks again!
@@drewnelson5433 you kinda don't need to. It'll do the drum calibration if it feels that your gears are out of whack or a clutch is stuck. I did this procedure without the calibrations and it worked fine. As far as a transmission computer reset, you just have to turn on your vehicle, turn it off, exit the vehicle, close the door, lock it so it beeps, get back in and start it up. Or instead of getting out, just pretend like you did. Just make sure you unlock the door with your key and not your door if you don't want your alarm to go off.
Impact-Driver has small battery which prevents damage. Drill should have a smalll battery too or go slow. Be very carefull. Apply extra fluid to help clean. Have patience. Good Luck
Is it required to run it through the programing after taking out and cleaning the actuators only? Or can you just put them back in after cleaning and drive it?
Just did this on my 2014 Focus that appears to have a sticky clutch and has the same code as the video title. Key is use lots of brake parts cleaner while cranking the clutch actuator hole with the actuator tool, spray, crank, spray crank and only about 10-14 rotations MAX then turn it back down the whole ways. You will notice if you’ve never done this before, the clutch won’t go back down the whole way by itself. The goal is to get the clutch fork to completely release back down on its own after cranking up about 10 rotations. After brake parts cleaner, add a little WD40 to lube the actuator hole, crank up 10 rotations and back down. You may need to put it back together drive it for a little and do some more cleaning if you still have the same code and bad shifts. When this first started, I cleaned and lubed with WD40 as described, but the clutch fork wasn’t releasing back down on its own after being cranked and it was still shifting bad sometimes and showing the code. Drove it for about 2 weeks, then took it back apart and did some more extensive cleaning with the brake parts cleaner and then little WD40 lube at the end then after cranking 10 rotations, releasing the wrench made the clutch release it the whole way back down to the bottom. Now the code is gone and the car drives normal again. It’s just a sticky clutch and needs cleaned.
@@Bilal-g9y No slip, this has been corrected since i posted this basically. May have had to do 1 more cleaning session but it ultimately fixes the problem.
Thank you very much for that amazing video! I had this issue with my ford focus. $3,500.00 were asked to fix it. I have tried this and now my car is running fantastic. Special thanks to that unknown angel who suggested me that video!!
At the same time as doing actuator a you MUST clean all earth straps. They were painted over at the factory, so the full current could not be used by the trans eventually burning the ECU and actuators out. Just take them off remove the body paint wd40 the lugs and bolts and put them back. Your actuators or ECU will not burn out due to poor return paths. Cheap insurance.
Thanks for this video! My 10 year old and I just fought to get Actuator B Out. Took it for a test drive and it shifts better than I ever can remember. YOU ROCK!
Ford dealer quoted me 3672$ for clutch and fork replacement because it was shuttering while shifting from 1 to 2 gear. That's what you saved me, my 2014 focus has 59000kms on it. Just cleaned both actuators and it runs smooth again. Cheers and thank you from Cananda.🍺
This video was super helpful. Started having issues with my 2014 Focus and I thought it was the TCM again. Dealer said it was "bent clutch forks" and would be $3000-$4000 to fix. Just went through this process and so far so good.
Just did this on my Focus, didn't have the Actuator Reset Tool available so I just alternated spraying brake cleaner and placing the Actuator back on a few times. Now my Focus runs like it's brand new again. You are a LEGEND dude!!!!!!
@@cooperking7271 yeah after you spray the cleaner in quickly tighten the actuator back down with a couple of screws and hop in your car, and spend a minute or two just turning your key from off to the on position, the actuator will spin the fork over and over rapidly
hey btw actuator A controls gears 1, 3, 5 and B controls R,2,4,6 not just R. they work in parallel to come in when the other clutch disengages with minimal power loss, its how its so fuel efficient. :)
@@L8R-HP it's junk regardless I'm telling u as transmission mechanic these transmissions suck like why have a manual transmission but yet operate automatically it makes no sense. U might as well have an automatic but those are junk too. They just need to leave manual transmissions alone. Even os semi trucks the eaton transmissions work similarly to these being that it's electronic manual it honestly sucks. These ones have the problems with the release bearings they go bad frequently and the forks are always getting debris on the rollers causing a binding kinda like this guy just explained ND the clutches on these transmissions are a pain in the but to replace because u can't just change the clutch. Nope u need to change clutch clutch bearing both release forks both electric actuators ND then the procedure is an even more pain in the ass. The way he's turning it counter clockwise 14 times on both release forks then once u get it in the car before u bolt up the clutch to flywheel u gotta rotate engine 5 times to center the clutch to the flywheel then to tighten the 6 13mm clutch nuts to the flywheel u gotta install a nut on every other stud cus it can ruin alignment if u don't. It takes 9 hours roughly if u had the right tools when compared fully manual transmissions that Ford focus has in same year, only takes 6 hours to do a job no special tools required in and out. Just imagine the cost for all listed parts above then u see why fully manual is better simpler affordable more efficent far more reliable and far less headache
@@jackdaniels2657 agreed, manuals are the way to go. But these transmissions actually don’t fail. The TCM does, actuators do. And forks get stuck. It takes me 3 hours to remove trans and clean and reinstall. Easy process and fast. I do this all day everyday.
I agree with you, after experiencing driving a Ford Powershift dual clutch 6DCT250 for 8 years on Fiesta Ecoboost 1.0L at hot tropical country with total 90k km, I have concluded that this transmission is quite reliable and enjoyable which suits my driving style which has never been trouble since brand new. As far as I know, all Ford Powershift problems are not due to flaw design, but due to 2 material defects supplied by the vendor, namely the TCM and shaft seals on the early generation Powershift, If you get a late generation powershift like I have then it is completely problem free. And apart from that due to lack of maintenance which in my opinion should be cleaned every 50-75k km so that the clutch unit mechanism is smooth and does not jam due to very dirty clutch dust. But by the way thanks for your informative video 🙏
can you explain - how exactly do you need to operate with this Clutch Reset Actuator Tool right.... i mean, what's the rule of engagement? thank you... i don't wanna break it) 11:45 is it the rule? "turn it counter clockwise 14 times and then release"?
@@L8R-HP i attemtp to clean actuator port with wd40 and I failed - the bearing just fell apart when I was turning actuator tool. so I guess now I should looking for rebuild the gearbox completely 🤡 🤡 now the hole is not fixed - it moves, and balls fell out of the hole 🤡 🤡 The fork drive shaft sheared off internally from the roller/spring assembly and dumped tiny ball bearings all over the inside of it. Seattle WA
The timing of coming across this video was perfect. I had to look up others things that were going wrong with my daughter's 16 focus and watched this video "just because". I fixed the other problem that she had and magically enough a few days later she was having the hesitation, slipping problem. Ran the code and of course it show Actuator B was stuck. Did as you suggested and problem fixed. Great video and thanks for taking the time to put it together and sharing it with us.
@jay Perez is it normal when you start turning it counter clock wise and it's like it's got compression In it like it wants to kick back the other way like it's spring loaded
I did exactly what you showed in your video. Brake clean and Wd40. I didn't have that bit but used a screwdriver like you showed in another video. And it Worked! Thank you. I appreciate you posting these videos.
6:38 I would recommend using a normal drill and not an impact driver for this as you can set the clutch of the drill so you don't apply more force than desired.
Man idk what kinda magic this is but it works!! I had code P07A3 friction element A stuck on. Mines a 2012 so no warranty no way im going to the dealer. It would shudder, buck like a horse and skip gears. Tuned that spline thing and it wouldnt spring back. I did your little method turning with an impact, cleaning and spraying wd40 and lithium grease and then it finally turned smoothly by itself. Did it some more to make sure that thing wont get stuck. Cars running smoother than its ever ran before. I'd rather keep doing this every couple of months rather than paying to have the clutch changed. Its not worth it.
You have saved my life. I almost drove my car into a canal, it is giving me problems and I am very worried about this. My car is a 2013 Ford Focus SE, I bought it used since I couldn't afford a new one, it has one hundred and eighty thousand miles. I appreciate that your video is subtitled in Spanish, it helps the Spanish-speaking Latino community. To write these letters I used a translator, thank you friend, thank you very much. Greetings from Lehigh Acres in Florida.
Hey man! i’ve actually rebuilt the transmission in these cars. I’m not saying this to stress you out, but at 180k, it’s ready to go. Everything with this cars transmission is flawed. Fundamentally. You need to sell this car before you start having a fork get stuck, or a rear seal start leaking. Please buy a honda. These cars suck, and my fiesta (uses the same transmission) brought me to the lowest point of my life.
@@greatness7822 Depends on the state of everything else in the car. If the engines perfect, and the suspensions fine, it may be. But if you’re paying someone else to do it and it’s more than 2,000, probably not. This cars transmission sucks and is bound to fail again
2012 Ford focus s 2.0 , 64,000 miles Error Codes P0903 clutch A actuator circuit high U3003-17 high battery voltage U0100-00 ? U0101-00 ? Idles Rough , No Forward , has Reverse , sometimes Forward after 2 or 3 minutes . Disconnected the Battery for 30 minutes , Reconnected Battery . Now Idles Great , Easily Shifts into Forward and Reverse and Drives Great . Thank You Jesus !
FIXED!!!!! Bro, thank you so much!!!!!! Fixed my car last night. Didn't have the tool, so I used a skinny slot flat head bit from my gun kit. As suggested, I used brake cleaner & WD 40. Didn't want to break the flat head bit, so I hand rotated & released for bout 30 mins. Skipped the OBD b/c don't have a scanner. Anyway, my Focus starts right away, no delayed 1st gear engagement, and no shuddering. Thank you, thank you, and thank you.
Hi... Great for you with this Ford.. But what scanner did you use in this video? I need to do same procedure and I'm thinking to buy a scanner... Thank you for your help... Have good day...
Yes, I have driven close to 100 miles since fixing this two days ago, just perfect !! Driveability/Smoothness/MPG is best I had in months, probably do this at every other oil change, may take extra 15-20 minutes, saves/extends your clutch life. Besides this issue at 82,600 miles, car is perfect, 2018 Focus. 😎 Very appreciative of this video/info 🙏
@@murderblock8194 Yes, it was basically disabling clutch A and related speeds/gears, only clutch B gears, 2,4,6,reverse would work, of course all related jerking, etc. was present, I did install new A+B motors about 9 days ago, just in case, got Chinese ones on evilbay, repeated clean + lube before install, etc. At almost 1k miles, it's working very good and avg mpg is up.
What happens if you turn more than 14 turns? Heres the issue I am having. The one on the top didn't have any "spring back". I turned it i feel like less than 14 turns and the screw/bolt came seemed like it popped out. It screwed back in just fine but i can only turn it clockwise because if i turn it the other way it just seems like its backing itself out of the hole again. My theory is that it is very dirty and clutch needs to spring back for me to be able to turn it counter clockwise. (am I right?) I'm letting it sit with wd 40 over night to see if anything loosens up Also if I keep turning clockwise, will I hit an end point? I am afraid to keep turning too much. I don't know what to expect.
#L8R-HP Youpiiiiii .Eureka...its ok for me....i have try and its great.....thank you thk you mister.......🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤Great job....I am Gabonese and i have finish this operation with clutch A and my car drive Fast...i am really satisfy with WD40
I have the same Ford Focus 2014, watching your video makes me a little better about owning this car. You are my new Mechanic please don’t go off you tube you are helping people. Thank you 🙏
@L8R-HP i bought a whole transmission do i still to remove and reset the clutch pack before putting it on, just swap it out? Thanks, your response would greatly appreciated.
I used lithium grease on mine. One other thing I did (saw it on another video) was to drill two 1/4 inch holes in the case. One adjacent to actuator B, and the other at the bottom of the case. Bent the straw on the brake cleaner can at a 45 degree angle and used the hole to wash down the mechanism inside the case with the hole in the bottom used for drainage. It's dry in there so it's not going to hurt anything. I then took the blower gun and blew an insane amount of clutch dust out of the case through the actuator hole.. Washed it down again with brake clean again and then lubed it all. It's crazy because it's a 2017 with only 66k on it. If you're missing the splash shield and/or are otherwise worried about stuff getting in through the holes, a rubber plug or a dab of silicone will easily seal it up.
@@kenbaker1353 This is where I found out how to do it. Figured it was worth a shot! Starts around the 1:30 mark. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CoU1QGn_9gc.html
Just Got the invoice for whole entire replacement, 3k for everything(All) in the Bell Housing, He told me its the Forks A&B inside of the Housing,(From Experience)He's a transmission specialist of 20+years, The #1 atleast in my County, Blessing 🙌
Thank you for the video! I am getting a P090C and have already replaced the two actuators but I did not clean out actuator B on the bottom. What scan tool can I use for this procedure?
I dont think you can defend this transmission. A regular manual doesn't have clutch dust and fork problems. This thing was engineered poorly and sent to market prematurely.
Nice info helped me out i turned the fork 14 times by hand. Got tired at 12 or 13 and it spun back lol. I heard a click noise at the end. What does the clicking noise mean?? Anyways I drove it 12 miles in town and on a mike stretch of highway where I can floor it up to 90. I think it’s retraining it but the shifting is a little better since I drive it vs the beginning. The transmission light came on 5 miles into it. Shut car off turned back on and tried reverse i was able to reverse around some cars, trailer back to where I parked it. Moved it back and forth took my foot off pedal and it was going.
If you have a blow gun you could always zip tie it to full blast and insert it into the top one while you're spraying. Be sure to wear safety glasses....lol
@james102377 I should use an air compressor and shoot air from actuator a (top) down with actuator b (bottom) both out? Will this not send all the clutch dust flying all through the gears etc?
Sorry for this stupid question . Not a pro mechanic . Just ordered new A & B clutch actuators fron Yinlowa . They are not marked A or B , and look very indentical . So how can tell the differencd from the two ? I got our 2014 Focus for $700 from a parish member at my church . It only has 100,000 miles on it . Thank you for your video . Again sorry for the dumb question .
Battery died got a jump and the car wouldn't drive at all reverse or drive, did the transmission valve resets with my launch scan tool and it worked perfectly these new cars are dumb. Thank you your video helped alot 😂😂
It works. Focus 2014 SE 110.000 KM. I just did the B actuator and it kicked in with no errors after driving kinda 30 km.The "reset tool" I used carefully was an Allen key with a rounded head 1/4.Hex the same size does the job too.But it needs to be hold firm while turning and all by hand .It took me half an hour.I didn't even spray that much like here but I'm going to do it again more consistent when I'll open the other actuator these days. Then I erased all codes with the ODBlink dongle. ''P07A4, Transmission Friction Element B Performance/Stuck Off''. ''P2701-00 Transmission Friction Element B Apply Time Range/Performance It runs reverse too with slightly occasional shuddering. At least I can have some more spare time to have a cheaper quote to replace the clutches and eventual forks and clean the build up black powder from the old clutches.
Thank you for making these videos. I have a 2105 focus and had no idea about any of these fixes. I cleaned both A and B as described, but when I started up the car, I no longer had reverse or drive. It shows its in Drive but doesn't move and RPMs don't go over 1200. Do I need to do the relearn before it will work?
I have a 2014 Focus. Car suddenly would not go over 30mph. Reverse and Drive works fine. Took to mechanic and they said transmission needed replaced. However when the codes were cleared, the car drove perfect all the way home. Has not happened again since bringing it home. What would have caused the issue? Mechanic did not tell me what codes pulled when it was scanned sadly but with it running fine now, I'm skeptical that it is actually the transmission. Thoughts?
I have a question. Please help if you can! I had a code P287A for clutch B stuck engaged and No reverse. I did some cleaning like you and switched actuators between each other and deleted codes. Transmission started working. But I can't perform adaptive learning for some reason. At first I tried to do TR sensor test but it's failed, then clutch learning, same thing with it - failed. And I feel a bit of slipping on 1st gear, also sometimes rough shifting between 1st & 2nd gear. And when I'm driving downhill without touching acselerator pedal my RPM's about 2000 with seems to be high. Thank you!
Thanks for this informative video! My ford focus dont have reverse. And moving forward slowly. Will bring it to dealership tomorrow hope I make it. Let me also mention that Ford has 10 year extended warranty on ford focus in regards with transmission problem. Check it with them too..
Good to know mine is a 2017 with only 14,000 miles on it. Not sure what happened but car is in limp mode and reverse acts like neutral. I did pay for extended warranty so it should be covered. Can’t believe I’m having this kind of issue with hardly any miles.
Did you find out what’s wrong with yours yet? You can get by limp mode by manually shifting L gear to D at around 3500 rpm and still go 45mph on the side roads to dealer. You’re skipping 2nd gear that’s why the limp mode from take off. Mine had some physical damage internally waiting to find out exact issue. It is likely the casing has a sheared stop for the B fork side of TCM so fork isn’t being engaged at all. Explains the clunk I heard when driving forward after a battery change.
@@IamDaytrader its the transmission. I was told that i need to wait 6 to 8 months for the part…. I dont need to pay anything for the part because it is gonna be paid by ford but I decided to sell it to the dealership for 4500$…. It had 64k mikes on it. I regretted selling for that price but oh well, Ive done it already… :(
Hi hope you see this and get a chance to reply I didn’t even turn it more then 5 full turns and the screw that you spin popped out it doesn’t look broken or snapped I put it back in and now there’s no tension is the fork completely screwed now ?
My focus is slipping slightly in first, so I will test this fix out. I think I will get an extra actuator from the junkyard and cut off the splined part to make my own tool.
OK, I did in this video seven or eight times and it was like seven or 8000 miles now when I do it, I lose spring tension after about six rotations and it’s hard to turn and it doesn’t get any better. I put a whole can of WD-40 in there now, it’s worked so good before but this time and I do hear it just a tiny bit of clicking in one spot. Does this mean that I need to replace the forks? I posted a video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PJgnzv3IFFI.htmlsi=1dVO8jxBEBlEf6CH
Yo! Thank you for the video. I'm preparing to do this work on my 2014 Ford Focus se. Lately, after 20 min of driving or so, my check engine light will come on, I'll lose Reverse and switching gears from 1-2 and 2-3 are really rough. I've seen on other videos that you can and maybe should (?) clean the forks with Brake cleaner and lubricate with WD-40, I also purchased 2 new actuators just to cover all my bases. My question to you is, do I need some fancy diagnostic tool to do this job? Or can I get by just cleaning the forks, replacing the actuators, and restarting the car? If I need some sort of Diagnostic tool, what capabilities must it have? I just ordered a FORScan tool, will I be able to do what is necessary with FORScan? Any help would be so greatly appreciated man. Thanks!
@@mads416 Hey mads, no, fortunately for me I didn't have that issue, but I haven't fixed my issue yet either. It still jerks and shudders often but the worst of it has yet to come. It seems that the issue is especially apparent when it gets hot, like 80F+, and we haven't really had that where I'm at yet. The worst includes stalling completely (car does not get into gear) or losing reverse for 20 min at a time. Hope we figure it out. Ford should have a Class Action filed against them.
@@L8R-HP hi , i just notice TRIPLE SQUARE 6mm only have 12 sides , so they have to be 14 sides as the actuator or the special tool , the good one has 14 sides same as the link from ebay u sent me
Ford TSB for shuddering should keep the severe shudder at bay for a while. We've had a 2012 focus dct in our family for years and from 70k miles til the 230k it's got now, doing the TSB has 'scrubbed' the clutches enough to deglaze them. However, if you're getting codes, always check them first, if no codes and just shuddering look up the TSB and run from a dead stop through the first four gears at an aggressive pace a few times (3-4) all at once. Our focus is bucking mad today, shifting causes rev jumps and feels like slipping in the first clutch and finally threw codes so now I get to diagnose from there. Most like the forks at this point (230k miles). Clutches lasted this long, which is impressive so if you have less miles and just the shudder in 1st-2nd, do the TSB and see if that helps. This video is another good idea to increase some life in your lemon car.
@@whill7828 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-msA0p87O2y4.html Here's a video that explains it all in great detail by an actual Ford Technician.
Do you think is a good idea to put a vacuum hose in the hole to remove some dust from transmission housing before spraying brake cleaner.. I don’t have any problem yet, just thinking to do it as a preventive maintenance
Have 14,000 miles on my 2017 and blown away I’m having this issue already. I hardly drive the car and never imagined something like this before it would be traded in.
I can’t believe the timing of this vid. I’ve had many many issues with my exact same 2014 Black Ford Focus SE and the reverse is now going out every day (really acts up as the weather gets warmer). I’m really hoping that I can see similar results after trying this out.
@@iiNinjaDefuseHD welcome to the club man been dealing with issues for years but it’s starting to get scary. Stalling in front of oncoming traffic when trying to cross highways, in rush hour and clutch won’t engage in any gear for 10 seconds, revers goes out completely and I have to have my passengers push. This car is a death trap. Hopefully this fixes it or at least remedies it enough to sell the damn thing.
adding my opinion to this. I have a 2013 that has had intermittent shudder ever since I bought it. I have followed the issue with these transmissions for years and watched many of the supposed solutions to help or "band aid" the issues with shuddering and check engine codes. Thus far, tuning has been the #1 fix to this tranny, however, continuous data logging must be done and the shudder can still return, especially in lots of stop and go traffic. The Ford recalls were just a temporary fix that accomplished nothing. Re-grounding the wires was not a solution either. And finally flooring the gas pedal from a dead stop to reset the ECM didn't work either. Recently , owners & me too, with some basic mechanicking skills have been replacing the shift actuators and or trying this method of cleaning & lubricating the actuator hole where it meets the forks.... And it WORKS pretty darn good and maybe the best temporary fix or band-aid that I have seen thus far. And it makes sense. However, because this transmission is flawed, I believe the cleaning and or replacement of the shift actuators ($80 a piece) is something that is going to have to be performed every 20,000 to 30,000 miles to help extend the life of this transmission. Of course, driving styles and habits dictate how frequent this has to be done. After all of these years of 12-18 Focus owners scratching our heads, this maybe the best and most cost effective solution to help this transmission extend its life and perform like it suppose to. Again this is just my opinion cause Im not a hard core mechanic
Hello. I'm Daniel. I Just bought a 2014 Ford Focus SE from a dealership on the 6/7/2022. I Drove it for 400 miles. 95% of those being highway miles. I got the Transmission Fault Light. When I ran the code reader it gave me P06B8 Internal Control Module Non-Volatile Random Access Memory(NVRAM) Error with 6 Secondary Diagnostic Trouble Codes P0606: ECM/PCM Processor, P0884: TCM Power Input Signal Intermittent, P0606-00 ECM/PCM Processor, P06B8-00: Internal Control Module Non-Volatile Random Access Memory (NVRAM) Error, P0702-00: Transmission Control System Electrical, P0884-00 (TCM) Power Input Signal Intermittent. The Next Primary Codes (3) are U0428-68 Invalid Data Received From (SASM)- Event Information. U3003-16: Battery Voltage - Circuit Voltage Below Threshold. Then U3003-17: Battery Voltage- Circuit Voltage Above Threshold. The shop said there putting a new transmission and TCM and clutch. Can I pleas have your 2 cents.
I've logged 188k miles on my 2016 SE. Technically an SEL but they didn't have the SEL badge that year. The transmission took a dump at 109k miles and was slipping a lot for 30k miles prior to that. They replaced the actuators and a number of other parts and it's been great ever since. No shudders or slipping since. Not sure if the newer parts were improved, if I got lucky or it's about to start acting up again.
Just tried it. Seems to be helping thank you will keep you posted. Ps. When I took the actuator off clutch dust fell....it is probably caked inside ugh....
The shudder of the focus transmission is why Im switching back to manual. Its a horrible issue and a lot of ford techs will tell you its suppose to shudder slightly. Gear changes are slow and all around its just a horrible transmission. Im dumping ford and never looking back especially since they are moving to engine configurations that make it almost impossible for home repair.
If you get shuttering with this transmission, you need to go and drive it kinda hard. If you drive easy, it shifts easy and shutters. You need to drive them harder when taking off. If the a/c or a lot of people in the car, drive it harder then normal. I take my 14 out and runn it hard a coue times and that helps shuttering alot. They are self adaptive transmissions. It'll shift harder if you drive it harder. I saw a nother ford mechanics video on that issue and it works great.
You may run into a problem with the seal swelling and locking things up. WD40 and CRC equivalent cause rubber components to swell a lot!! Should be mentioned on the cans. Please keep this in mind when using these two sprays. Thanks for the video. Much appreciated
Hey man, I have a 2012 Ford Focus with some transmission issues. After I drive it and it tries to change to a higher gear, the dash says "transmission hot, please stop." It then tells me to wait 5 minutes. It's not the transmission fluid because it's filled. I was wondering if you have any idea what it could be? I would really appreciate it!
@@L8R-HP Okay, thank you! I ordered the Capri Tools 6 mm M6 Stubby XZN Triple Square Bit Socket, 1/4-Inch Drive but it was too small. Is this because my focus is a 2012? I ordered the 9mm to try that but was wondering if you knew the exact one I needed. I appreciate your help so far.
That thing looks like it has a rear main seal or oil pan leak in the rear judging by all the grey RTV around the bellhousing. Being that it's a dry clutch, any oil on it will ruin it. Also the engine oil causes the rubber boots on the clutch release levers or "actuators" to swell, eventually tear, then allowing the dust in and causing premature failure. None of this applies to the automatic 1.0L Focus that comes with a 6F15 transmission.
I know, I bought one for myself I had to fix and it's great, 160k miles on it and I'm sure I'll put another 160k on it lol. You will be surprised as some can be dry underneath but as soon as you split the transmission from the block, a quart or two of black clutch debris filled oil pours out. Usually you can tell if that's the case if the starter gear is wet or the rubber seal below it is swollen. Funny thing is some of them will have mild or no symptoms at all while this starts happening.
I did this re learned procedure. Transmission still stuttering through some shifts. Rpm raises slightly and then it will shift. Service transmission light come on periodically 😮
@@anthonybha4510 oh hell no when your standing along the road holding jumper cables I’ll be the one Blowing Coal on you as I blaze by in my jacked up Diesel
Just sell it to carvana and be rid of the headache. While my focus gives me no other trouble than this tranny shudder from the forks i think its ridiculous, my first car was a 2000 Taurus and that car had over 200000 miles with no transmission work done and nothing wrong with the car except a couple o2 sensors. But cars that dont break down dont make ford any more money.
Good video, I used a used part and took it apart to make a tool. Long story short, the bottom fork wound up all the way and then unwound itself all the way. A actuator DID NOT spin back all the way, it would spin about 4 spins and stop. Does that mean the fork is bad? I'm not a very mechanical person but it definitely didn't spin back freely like B actuator did. I tried spraying it multiple times and using plenty of WD-40 and it still didn't spin free all the way back. It also looked off center and made a clicking sound at about the last 6 turns. Would I need to take this transmission apart?
@@L8R-HP do you have any recommendations for ordering a new clutch and fingers from? I looked at rock auto but didn't see anything. Who's got solid replacement parts? I'm probably going to completely rebuild the dry side. 100K miles on her.
