Outstanding Brad. I really appreciate your detailed approach to the job, your safety guidance, your video is good, and your trying to keep us out of trouble. Likes the fact you showed us how to do the sensor and especially how to do this job without having the drum brakes go all to pieces, which would be a big bummer and time zapper! You are good!
This is a nightmare in the rust belt. I had to brace the back of the hub with a steel plate, use wood over the brake shoes and clamp them to the hub mount, crank them as hard as i could, then beat around the brake drum shield until it seperated. Rust turns a 45min job into a 5 hour project.
Good deal and thanks! Our 17 has a howling sound . Drives just fine and tires are all good. I jacked up each back tire separately . The passenger side makes no noise spinning but the drivers side definitely has a metallic sound so I'm going with that one first. At $40 at Oreillys it's an affordable gamble. It that's not it then I guess it's off to a mechanic
Good video, straight to the point...nice pistol too, I work in an open garage and carry, you never know nowadays? By the way, I think I have the same pair of boots, my insulated military, they are the best once broken in!
Hello Brad, Your video was very clear. I just faced a difficulty where the 10mm screw didn’t come out and just kept spinning (the one attached to the sensor) Any recommendation? I would like your advice
I would use vise grips and try to pull upwards on the bolt, it could simply be stuck in there. also make sure you throw some penetrant in there beforehand.
What’s up Brad, I have to replace rear subframe but part over the drivers backside wheel, I got hit New Year’s Eve, I’m trying to raise the money to fix it if possible, is the video possible has something to do with my issue? I climbed in and out the passenger side after it happened, do you know of that can possibly be under my car? The problem? Do yo have an email I can send pictures? Do you have a vid explaining subframe damage or replacement on 2018 Sentra ?👍🏼
Hey what type of drill did you use to take the wheel nuts off, I’ve been looking around but no luck, the drill I have do not have enough torque to get the nuts off.
I used a ridgid 18v impact. I now use a earthquake. If you can't get the lug nuts off, lower the vehicle till the tires touch the ground and use a breaker bar or 4 way to loosen the lugs enough to remove them easily when you lift the car up.
Do all models use the same.wheel bearings I just ordered my.rears and they never bothered to ask.what model or if I had disk or drum breaks now I think I got.the wrong ones
They might not differ, but most likely they will. I will recommend removing the whole knuckle to then press ( yes press ) out the hub from the knuckle if they don't come out with a hammer. I spent hours banging on it to get one side off while the other fell right off after unbolting.
a little off topic but related. how would you recommend seating wheel studs if your impact just isn't getting it done. it is getting the stud close, maybe 1 mm to go, but it won't seat all the way. I think my 20v DeWalt is dying 🤣
Sorry for the late response, and I'm sure you've figured out your stud situation, but there's a small tool you can get that's about 40 bucks and will make installing studs so much easier! www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-Wheel-Stud-Installer/dp/B000ETUD22/ref=asc_df_B000ETUD22/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312196001716&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15036015931065482369&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017312&hvtargid=pla-459085252314&psc=1
Check the dust shield and see if its rubbing the rotor. Happens to me all the time. If not that check the brake pad shims to see if they contact the rotor as well.
