I have v6 honda accord 70.000 km only, but when the engine starts on the morning or when it's cold i hear noise like repeated knocking disappear after a while,, i saw many videos about that problem, most of them say tensioner and the belt and other related devices, my car is 2014 with low km as i mentioned above,,, the only tensioner should be replaced or another parts also included,,, with my best wishes from the middle east.
If you have a v6 then you have a belt. This job on my car is only for the 4 cylinder 2.4 liter k24, which is a timing chain. If you have hearing that noise then most likely you should do the complete kit with tensioner, belt, water pump and some seals. I hope this helps. Please like and subscribe and comment for any other questions. ✌️
Yes bro its v6 , but it's still young 70.000 km....to change the water pump I think this kit it costs too much.. but for sure the tensioner and belt will be changed....thank you for the advice, I'm waiting for more videos.
@tata7991 my car is 2008 v6 Accord. I replaced the tensioner,water pump and belt at 100k miles back in 2017. 7 years and 50k miles (70k km) later I noticed what seemed to be a little bit of oil coming from the tensioner (it must be leaking). Your might not have a lot of kms but it is 10 years old.
What happens if the timing chain tensioner key hole is way off the hole alignment even when I turn the crank shaft counterclockwise a little to try to decompress it to put a new tensioner in to replace
Did this a while back on my 2014, no more rattle at start up. Now, I recently bought a 2018 2.0 with 105k miles and its doing the same rattle at start up if I don't drive the car for a few days. The access port to the tensioner seems similar on both engines. Gonna do it on this engine soon. Come on Honda!, this is embarrassing 🤦🏻
Thanks for the comment. That's pretty sad to know that the newer generation accords are still dealing with the same issue. I am also very skeptical of the turbo side of it as well.
To answer your question, "yes" my cold start rattle is fully gone now for over 15,000kms and going strong. Please subscribe if this video was helpful. ✌️
@@vigourdiy5084 the tensioners are actually known to wear sooner then the rest of the timing components. Leaving one that's on its way out over an extended period will also cause everything else to wear and will be much bigger job. Worth changing if you hear that initial noise at a cold start.
@@fixithoneyThe owner said the rattle started a week ago, maybe two or three... the noise is constant even when the car is warm. Hope there's no additional damage. I'll try the tensioner first.,
Hi man, I got a k24z3 engine which will have some chain noise while accelerating between 2000 to 3000 rpm. Do you think this issues was causing by the chain tensioner? Thanks.
In your case i think your car will need the full works. Chain, tensioner, guides and all. My car only had noise at start up and queit the rest of the time. I hope this helps. Like and subscribe ✌️
Hey, sorry to hear that but did you follow the video exactly? Also did you buy a honda original tensioner. Sometimes aftermarket tensioners are faulty. Let me know if you have any other questions hopefully everything is okay.
Your new tensioner is defective maybe, or it wasn't the issue and the rattle comes from the VTC instead, or your chain has become loose with time and slaps. Check if the markings align at TDC.
I have a 2013 honda crv 2.4 with code p0341 replaced cam sensor and did not help, it doesn't rattle much when starting the engine, the engine light still on, what would you recommend. Thanks
Do not do this. I just did this to my 2015 Honda accord and I had to pay $4,055 to fix my car. The timing on the motor was off. And slack was in the chain. And no it was not like this before I tried replacing the tensioner. They had to replace my chain and guider pins. Leave this one to the professionals. Or you’ll make it into something bigger.
I totally agree with you about leaving it up to the professional. In my case i only had a slight noise at start up, no check engine light or any other symptoms. I knew my chain might have a little slack and my tensior was weak due to the mileage 350,000kms. It sounds like your timing moved when you were trying to do this repair. If you bought a car that has the rattle/noise at start up and its ignored for tens of thousands of kms then all other timing components due wear excessively where just doing a tensioner will not solve your problem. So its better to do sooner than later to avoid a much bigger repair. I have over 15,000kms since the repair and still going strong. Hopefully this helped ✌️
@@fixithoney yea I bought the car used. Financing it. And there was a slight rattle at start up for 1 second maybe then went away. I replaced the tensioner. Car started low idling and making noises. White smoke out of exhaust…. Leave it to the pros ! I’ll stick to brakes and rotors and the other basics from now on! Lol
@@craiganthony3824 Yeah, I have to admit that anything involving timing tends to intimidate me, I don't even like to adjust valves because I'm afraid of screwing something up. I have an 09 Accord that I just bought with that rattle, so now I have to be on the lookout for any kind of problem. Problem is the outrageous cost of repairs like this, if you take it to a garage, so I generally try to do things myself. It REALLY bugs me how much they rip us off, and it's most because of the labor charges.
@@craiganthony3824 I'm wondering why this happened to you, because there are many accounts of guys doing this replacement without any problem, I'm considering it myself. I can't imagine why your timing would be so out of whack simply by turning the crank case the little amount needed to line up the pin hole, and then turning it back after install. I have to admit that your unfortunate result is giving me pause at attempting this.
@@paulleblanc3301 Did you do the R&R? How did it go? I'm pondering this myself, but the guy who posted here who had catastrophic damage has me concerned.
@094340 yes I did it just like the TSB said except for blow air though the oil filter hole no problem made the noise the first time I started it and that was it thanks for asking
@@paulleblanc3301 Thanks for responding. So, was the old tensioner piston over extended? Was the timing chain not stretched? My thought is that if the tensioner needed replacement, then the chain can't be far behind. Sorry for the interrogation, I just want as much info as possible before I attempt this. Thanks.
I was extremely careful and did everything to the book. Torqued everything. Took me 3 hours. I now have a P0341 and my engine jumped time. Fuck. Be careful guys. Seriously.
I realized where I messed up. When I installed the new tensioner and pulled out the pin, it didn't move. It was kind of resting on the chain guide anyway so I figured it was fine. DO NOT CONTINUE IF THIS HAPPENS TO YOU. Poke/hit the tensioner until it extends TIGHT onto the guide, or have it towed to a honda mechanic. You will save a lot of money getting it fixed from this state compared to bent valves and damaged pistons. Also I used a brand new tensioner purchased and picked up from a Honda dealership, verified with my VIN, verified with the TSB. Good luck and be CAREFUL everyone.
@@fridder. thank you for the comment. I hope your car is running good now. I hope the video helped, please like and subscribe if you haven't already ✌️
After turning the crank counter clockwise 90 degrees to compress the tensioner and inserting the pin, the crank should have been turned clockwise 90 degrees in order for the chain slack to be on the compressed tensioner. As the video shows, when the new tensioner was installed and pin pulled, the piston didn’t quite go up because the tension was still on the chain. As the slack was on the opposite side, when the engine was cranked, it caused the timing to go off as the newly installed tensioner was building pressure. If you visualize what I’m saying, you’ll understand why your timing jumped.
Shops want 12-1500 to fix this. Other videos have multiple unnecessary steps. If you have this series of Accord, it's only a matter of time before the tensioner fails. Thanks for a clear and concise explanation. Best explanation on RU-vid!
I agree with you this part is very important and one mistake and and could destroy all engine, I use to do some maintenances in mine but this part I prefer guarantees
Just wondering, is that the original cvt??…original fuel pump, water pump,radiator,etc…I have the same car…I did the complete rechain,vtc ,guides,etc..at 130k now it has 167k and was wondering how much time I have on the other components I mentioned,..this vehicle is well maintained…all services done as recommended…any feedback would be appreciated thank you ,new subscriber ..👍
Thank you for the comment and for subscribing. This a 2013 so first year of the cvt. Everything is original except the starter and battery. 360,×××kms not miles. This was also a dealer maintained vehicle and i am the second owner. Any other questions just ask ✌️
Hey, thank you for the comment. Really appreciate that, i bought the tensioner direct from Honda so it is an original part. I really recommend going with the original honda part especially for engine timing components. Please like and subscribe if you haven't already ✌️
Followed this video to fix my 2015 CRV. Ran into a minor issue where the lever that the tensioner pushes was putting too much tension on the tensioner to get it out. I used a pry bar to hold that lever up and was able to get the old tensioner out and the new one in. All good now. Happy to have quiet starts now!
Did you manually reset the teeth on the tensioner? Seems like you just installed it without resetting it not sure if you have to.. There is another video that explains using a c-clamp to reset the tensioner so that it is able to fit into the piston without damage on start up.
i’m curious about the second part also? do you have to rotate the engine back clockwise after the tensioner is back on or let it do it on its own once the oils is back in it?
@@musicflows21I would. The video doesn’t show the crank being turned clockwise after the pin was inserted. It’s important to do this because the chain slack is essentially on the opposite side of the tensioner.
@@m.francis1132 the title to the video says what year and the first min of the video states it's the 2.4 liter 4 cylinder. Idk what else info your looking for
Good video overall. Way, way too much gasket maker though. There wasn't much to remove from the start and too much can potentially cause bigger headaches. See TSB TSB 19-019.
@@markythemark4598 I wouldn't personally and old tensioner that is weak. To put more stress on it by adjusting the teeth. The part and repair is worth it in my opinion
Did exactly what was shown here. Now my engine is making some kinda supercharger type of sound. Was super careful. No codes no nothing just making that sound so shut it down.
Hey, i am really sorry to hear that. Might be something else like chain stretched or the guides or even a bad tensioner. Please let me know how it is✌️
I have a odd question. On timing belts you have to switch out the tensioner while TDC to catch slack side. Does that not apply when doing tensioner with timing chain?
There will be slack with a chain and gets taken up once the engine is running and oil is pressurizing the tensioner properly. This is manily because the honda tensioner are known to loose there tension at cold start and goes away once running and filled with oil. I hope this helped please subscribe if you haven't already ✌️
No consigo la pieza A02 en Ebay, solo la A01 según dicen que le queda, tengo un Accord 2014 sport 2.4, pero por algo serán piezas diferentes, dónde compraste la pieza con número A02? Gracias.
Hi there I have some noise , when cold start my 17 accord.will do video tomorrow and send to you , so you tell me opinion. Did engine light come on youre car, before you change timing chain tensioner. Just wandering.
Nope not really. If you would like to change it and have fresh oil going through the new tensioner would be a good idea but not needed. I hope this helps, please subscribe and like 👍
Thanks for the comment. I dont think they are known to leak but due to age and rust here in canada it might cause a leak eventually. Like and subscribe ✌️
I would take the inspection cover off again and just look inside for anything obvious. Your chain might be stretched or the guides worn out. I hope you used an OEM HONDA tensioner. Please like and subscribe if you haven't already ✌️. I hope this helps.
@@davidjordan5592these tensioner fail due to low oil pressure, and bad oil change maintenance, nit to mention they burn oil especially in higher mileage
I believe it was a 10mm for the cover plate and the tensioner. More importantly i had a little hard time finding something thin enough to hold the tensioner together. Hope that helps, subscribe if you haven't already. ✌️
Hey so I ordered an aftermarket tensioner and it didn’t come with the pin inside. It was hard to lower the top metal piece but I finally got it lowered and then it flew out. It falls in to place normally now but I’m wondering if that may have messed it up? I’m confused and would really like some help if you can please reach out to me
Hey, i would suggest for you to not use that part. The pin is there to hold very high amount of tension. DON'T PUT THIS IN YOU CAR. Get a refund and try to get OEM honda or cloyes is a good brand that made aftermarket parts. I hope this helps, let me know how it goes or if you have any other questions. 🫡
www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~tensioner~cam~chain~14510-5a2-a02.html?vin=&make=Honda&model=Accord&year=2013&submodel=&extra1=4%20Door%20EX&extra2=KA%20CVT&filter=()&location=pd:4230937,6 this is what i found online to fit my personal 2013 accord 2.4 with cvt. I myself went to the dealership and ordered it using my vin number.
I have the 2013 model Accord. It recently started giving a little trouble. The car shuts down at low rpm sometimes when waiting in red signal. And the Check Engine and steering light comes on but disappears the next day without doing anything. Got the battery and alternator checked, no issues with those. Any idea what it can be? Thanks
Thank you for the comment. I would first try and retrieve what codes the car is setting. It might be something simple or maybe something serious. I would tell you buy a cheap code reader that just reads codes and go from there.
Hi, so it depend on what type os nosie you have, when you hear the noise and how long is the noise around for. Can you describe the noise your car is making.
In my experience, the timing chain tensioner failure has a noticeable rattle on a cold start. The serpentine tensioner issue causes a whining or squeaking sound while it's running (high pitch) The serpentine tensioner is a quick fix also.
Good video but terrible advice. You never change just the tensioner. The whole kit needs to serviced. Tensioner, guides and yes the chain... despite the myth that chains dont go bad, they do in fact stetch and cause chain slap until it eventually skips timing.
If the chain hasn't been stretched, there is no need to replace it, unless you really want to do a preventative maintenance on the car. If the old tensioner hasn't extended beyond Honda's specs for replacing the chain, then there is no need to replace the chain. Obviously, if the tensioner has extended too far, then the chain has probably been stretched, so yes, at that point you would need the kit.
Eventually down the line i will be replacing everything all at once but as of right now i only needed to do the tensioner. I have already put over 20,000kms and still working great. IMO i am just trying to save the timing components from unnecessary damage if i had let it go for longer. This just is cheap and simple job to do and i only posted it to make it simple and clear for anyone else trying to do this job. Thank you for the comment and please subscribe if you haven't already. ✌️
Honda has TSB 19-019 for this where they just do the tensioner. If the chain were to be inspected and had too much stretch then it's a bigger job to do it all.
It would be a good idea but most of them dry within 10 to 15 minutes. I hope the video helped and if you have any questions just comment. Subscribe if you havent already ✌️
Apparently the 2013 model and some 2014 models did not have a screen installed at the factory. There is a Honda TSB 14-030 titled "Slapping or Clicking From Engine Area at Idle", and they state that the tensioner can be affected by debris at idle. The TSB calls for a new tensioner and installation of the screen.
Hey, thanks for the comment. Since the repair the car been 100% quiet and am very happy with the repair. If your car has this noise but has been prolonged over an extended period then maybe your chain might have also stretched along with the wear to the timing chain guides. You might need to do the full repair. Which is a much bigger job. I hope this answer helps. Please like and subscribe if you haven't already. ✌️
@fixithoney yes it helped and I haven't do the tensioner yet doing soon as I get the part but I hope it's not I brought the car about 3 weeks ago all was good the first morning that I head it I just drove it that day and parked it it part should be here tomorrow and yes the vtc or chain is a much harder job TIA
bro please help im doing it right now and the pin that i put in old tensinoer to lock flew out when i was unbolting the bolts that hold it in. not sure what to do or how serious this is
Thanks for the comment. Almost all honda after a while get rear tires wearing unevenly on the inside due to rear springs sagging over time. You can buy adjustable arms to bring it back to spec. Let me know if this helped at all. ✌️
I personally did not turn it at all after i pulled the pin out. I did have the rattle on first start after the repair but has been good so far 👌 . Nice and quiet
@@fixithoney Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to line up the holes on the lock and the cam chain auto-tensioner, then insert a 1.2 mm (3/64 in)-diameter pin into the holes. Turn the crankshaft clockwise about 90 degrees to secure the pin. not after new tensioner goes in my bad
says after u turn it counter clockwise and install the pin, turn the crank clock wise again for about 90 degrees. i dont see people do this in videos tho not sure what to do
@@8000b if this is honda recommended i would say do it for sure. I personally didnt know till now. Thank you for the comment and like/subscribe if this helped at all. ✌️
This is a timing (chain) not a timing (belt). Doing the chain and all the needed components while you are in their would require all more time and thousands of dollars. my car has always been maintained and for under 200 bucks i can stop any unwanted wear on all other timing components. Quick and easy fix. Thanks for the comment and subscribe if you haven't already ✌️
@@fixithoney my bad. I was neck deep in replacing my daughters worn out hydraulic tensioner, idler pulley, timing belt, and water pump on her accord sport when I came across this video and had belts on the brain. To each his own.
Finally! I’ve been looking for a solutions for my 2013 accord. I couldn’t find what was the cause of the noise on cold start. Saved me a trip to the dealer. 🙏🏽
Brooooo!! You the man!! I have 2015 accord coupe with 104457 miles and it did that same thing and I couldn’t figure it out until man. Gonna replace it tomorrow! Hope it fixes it cuz it sounds like shid on a cold start
Annoying noise aside, is there any long term damage if it is only on cold startups? I am in and out of my Cr-v all day working for Hospice and only get noise in mornings but not throughout rest of day starting and stopping. Is that short noise more of a nuisance or is it really an accident waiting to happen?
Thank you for the comment. Your engine will work fine but it is more of a preventative maintenance. If your planning on keeping the car for years and years like me. I would take care of it soon but it's a honda and it will just keep running as long as you stay on top of your oil change intervals. I hope this helped , please subscribe if you haven't already ✌️
