70-80 vibration is control arm bushings. Every 60k of miles. My old e34 525 had the same issues. Take it in and have new bushings pressed in. And brake rotors are $45 a piece.
I guess wen you're used to perfection you notice any little vibration. I'm used to vibrations clinks and clanks so I'm sure I'd be amazed how little your car vibrates compared to what I'm used to. One day......
I know you get a million of these questions, but I test drove a 2011 535i Xdrive today and am thinking hard about it. It only had 81,000 miles, and for a 12+ year old car that is pretty good. I'm just scared of the maintenance costs of these things. Coming from a 2007 Honda Civic Si that's basically cost me nothing to maintain, a Bimmer is gonna kill the pocketbook huh?
Hey man honestly if the car is mint and well maintained you’ll be fine. Just find a reputable European car shop near you and have them do a pre purchase inspection on it deff worth the few hundred bucks
Im worried about the HPFP. Do they fail as often as the did on the N54? Im not to worried about the other issues since they are common on all BMW's. Also I know rod bearing faluire is super rare on the N55.
Nice vid!!!! I have a 2015 N55, 77,000 miles. will it have rod bearing problems? did they revise the rod bearings in 2014? can it still happen? or less likely?
Gotta ask haha I found a very very clean condition manual transmission car 535i 2011 for 12k. Has 147k miles though ): having have owned E36 E46 and my newest e60 all in manual transmission I know that high miles bring regular maintenance items but I've noticed that manual transmissions tend to be at least a little more reliable. I've never owned a turbo BMW before what's your take? Awesome video I've had that exact control arm issue before! Here's a tip for folks who drive spiritedly and track the cars. Use red high strength thread locker to torque bolts. Even at factory torque they kept backing out under hard driving mainly the e60 due to higher weight I'm guessing!
yes, i can confirm that replacing the control arm will got rid of the vibration after all. since i have a CPO Certified the dealer paid for it at 60K miles. at 75K they replaced the entire transmission, imported from Germany, and the valve cover gasket. at 100k replace both driver and passenger sides axles. at 136K i have to paid for the thermostat and the water pump. tire, brake and rotors were replaced at the regular interval so ... oh, last year the lock module on my passenger went out so they have to replace that. the car paid for and seem like all the parts are technically new so ... should i keep it? i think i should ... keep my finger cross for another 100K? wishful thinking?
Please please post a video if you happen to replace those control arm bushings. I have the same annoying vibration (both while braking from 60-80 mph and even when waiting at a traffic light). The vibration is not just the wheel but also the seats
My friend, if you have vibration at the traffic light then it sounds like your motor mounts or something not running correctly. Suspension bushings won’t cause it to vibrate at complete stop ..
I don’t follow the market that closely anymore but as long as you get a pre purchase inspection done and the car is MINT then sounds like not a bad deal
Hey man, what's your thoughts on a 2013 535i with 108k miles for $16k? Absolutely perfectly clean carfax and I'd be getting a bumper to bumper warranty
I mean you have to think of re-sale value - if you go to sell later you prolly won’t get much due to high mileage but If you’re planning on keeping the car till the wheels fall off then why not !? I’d also get a pre-purchase inspection and have them look for leaks, metal shavings in engine oil, hidden accidents etc
@@BIMMERLEAGUE Thank you so much for the insight! Going to check it out/test drive tomorrow, I'd be trading in my 2016 WRX with 87k miles - to some that may sound silly but I randomly test drove a different 535i because my girlfriend just bought a 328i and I fell in love... it's so perfectly spacious, decently quick and felt like so much car. I would definitely be keeping it forever since it would be silly to expect it to retain decent value if the miles go up so I think if it makes sense I'm going to say fuck it.
No code that’s the weird thing, I did however stumble across a thread that it could be solenoid valve causing a misfire, if the spark plugs and coils are good and I just did my oil change too, going to clean them and see if that helps
Hey bro, ive got a problem with my f10 n55. One day the car started to act strange like i had no power under 2000rpm, an extra sound from the exhaust, the engine running a bit rough, laggy acceleration. I thought its time for the spark plugs to be changed and so i did (ngk 97506). The car was perfect for like 2-3 days after the plugs change, then again the problem reapeared. At that moment i thought the plugs are not ok for my car and i changed them with oem ones. After 3-4 days of running great, the car did the same problem again. Ive changed all the coils (oem) and plugs (oem) and the car ran perfect again. After 2-3 days again bad…i decided to check everything like turbo/intake/chargepipe/ did a smoke test, everything perfect. I put back the ngk’s that i used in the first time and the car run perfect again but again for only 2-3 days. Do you think it could be the injectors? Car has 119k kms, the plugs had no signs of fuel on them, but my oil is smelling like gas
No check engine light? Normally when your car is running at reduced power it will go into the limp mode and throw a code.. even if no check engine I recommend getting it scanned by a bmw professional because they can read codes that normal readers won’t show at all. At least they will pin point the problem for you that you can DIY fix 👍. It does sound like injectors might be the problem here but I would make sure 100% this is it before replacing those as it’s not that cheap ( they need to be coded too).
@@BIMMERLEAGUE no codes whatsoever, i use mhd regularely also. No missfires registered, no other codes. I know that the injectors need to be coded. Should i go with oem injectors or bosch ones are the same? In my country oem ones are 250$ and the bosch ones are 100$
@@catalin.c I had that same choice when the trouble body went bad on my x5. I used Bosch and never had a problem with it ever since. I would go with Bosch to save $$$. They make quality stuff 👍👌
I'll give you a dated reference. I bought my 2015 535 coming off lease in 2018 for $31k. Mint condition with 32k miles. Given how the market has been going crazy lately, it's a high price for a car that age, but not necessarily insane as the miles are relatively low. Key will be how the car was maintained and if it comes with a warranty. An ideal price would be between $22 and $25.
I recommend a none dealership bmw shop. I’d ask them to pull the oil filter and look for metal shavings etc I don’t think dealerships go that intrusive
My 2013 f10 starts tweaking when I get close to it with the keys in my pocket, it starts unlocking the car by itself, I’m not sure what’s wrong I think it’s one of the door handles comfort access sensor, it keeps going off
Well, as I always say - get a pre purchase inspection done at an independent shop and if car looks good, no oil/coolant leaks then go for it. These are much more reliable than they used to be
Hey dude I have the same 535 but 2015 with 51k miles Mine has comfort steering wheel tilt, like every time I stop the engine it will move the steering column up for easy exit entry. I looked everywhere In the bimmercode app and couldn’t find how to turn that thing off. Maybe you can help?
Thanks to all for replying I actually did search a lot and did not find the way to resolve that. I keep mine all the way down when driving and it’s annoying the hell out of me moving up every time I stop the engine
This is the cheat sheet that I use for my Bimmer code but I don’t see anything about steering wheel on here :/ f10.m5post.com/forums/attachment.php?s=63dd17fa6b95cd7eafba11bbae5b9c22&attachmentid=934574&d=1383186642