@@ogmatrix8268 i don't know if you are knowledgeable regarding clutch shifting problem? my kia soul does not go into gear in cold weather. i have to literally force it ..... but as soon as the engine is warmed up , shifting gear is fine. it only happens when the temp. drops.... about below 45F do i need to replace my clutch? i have 124,000 miles on it
Amazing video. The best and most thorough that I have seen. I will be saving quite a lot doing the tune-up myself on my 2016 Kia Soul. Cannot thank you enough.
Thanks for a great video! I just passed 100k and it feels much more sluggish than it used to. I’m going to go with the upgraded plugs also. Thanks for the tips!
This was very entertaining and a lot of knowledge tomorrow I will do the service on my car myself got to love RU-vid keep up the great work I'll let you know how it came out
12:50 Weird. 9/16 is basically 14mm & they've always been interchangeable on everything I've worked on from car repair to passenger and freight elevator construction. A 9/16 wrench is .56" and a 14 mm is .55". Thanks for the video.
You know what? I didn't even think of that. I know I didn't have a 14mm deep well at the time. I'm glad I had the 9/16 then! Good observation and thanks for the comment.
Thank you for the compliment. The simple, short answer is the maintenance schedule in the owners manual says every 45,000 miles and that's what I go by. My car in the video was right at 50,000 miles when I changed those spark plugs and you can see they aren't that bad. You will see many forums and manufactures state that iridium plugs are good for 100K to 120K miles, but leaving a spark plug in for that long can cause problems. Carbon buildup and corrosion can make the plugs hard to remove, or cause them to seize entirely. The head is aluminum and the threads are easily damaged.
Very helpful video. Would love to see more Kia Soul info. I've had a 2011 and currently a 2016 that have both developed a knock/rattle in the right rear.
I hope you had luck getting it fixed. I do all my own vehicle work, and always try looking for a video to get an idea of what I need to do. If I can't find one, I figure out what I need to do and make a video myself hoping to help others in the future.
Its a debate....some say the anti-seize prevents the plug from holding the correct torque in the threads.... Others strongly advise using it so the plugtgreads don't bond to the aluminum head.....
My understanding is Tune ups aren't tune ups anymore? They are now maintenance? What is it that should be done when taking car to the shop to have a tune up or maintenance.
Question please help by any chance do u know why my Freon leaks out but only after I use the heater I have a 14 Kia Soul. If I don’t use heater it’s fine it won’t leak out ..TIA
R134A gas is not Freon. But they serve the same purpose.... Did you resolve the refrigerant gas leak when using the heater ?? Very unusual circumstances to say the least.....
Huck Fin. Thank you OG. Super video, so precise. But you got me with the PCV you suddenly switched to. (Does it stand for Pressure Control Valve?) What does it do, why were you shaking it, and it is important to replace? Cheers mate.
PCV actually stands for Positive Crankcase Valve. It's a one way valve connected to the intake manifold that allows unburnt fuel gases to be returned to the cylinders and remix with the fuel being pumped in through the fuel system. When your cylinders fire, not all the fuel is burned off. That left over, unburnt, fuel used to either be spit out the exhaust to harm the environment, or mixed into the oil when it returned to the oil pan. That causes your oil to sludge up and caused corrosion from inside the engine. It is very important to change out as your car manufacturer recommends. It will help keep your oil "fresh" for a longer amount of time, and help prevent that corrosion I was speaking of. Shaking it is how to tell if it is bad or not. If you hear a nice metallic rattle when you shake it, it's still good. If there is no rattle, or it sounds muffled, then you need to change it. I would just stay with what our manufacturer recommends unless it's an older car (over 10 years or more). Cheers to you, and I hope that answered you clearly. If not, don't hesitate to ask for any clarification.
very good job...helpful. why no lubricant on the plug threads, PCV valve threads?...even the coil pack bolts?? don't mean oil, but specific lubes for each application...
You don't want to use any lubricant on conventional plugs because you will tighten past the proper depth before hitting the specified torque and can strip the threads. The old spark plugs that were made of steel would corrode against the aluminum head and needed the lubricant to keep it from seizing. This is an old practice that is obsolete with todays materials.
You're right. The manual does say to change them at 100,000. I believe I said 75,000 in the video. My mistake. However, I prefer to change them at 50,000 just to keep from running the parts to their complete end of life. There's nothing wrong with changing them sooner, but you definitely don't want to change them after that.
I do, and you're more than welcome to wait that long. I'm pretty hard on my vehicles driving and prefer to do maintenance early instead of waiting for the expected end of life for certain parts. If your spark plugs wear out sooner than expected and you don't change them, along with the PCV and so on, you could cause irreversible damage or wear to your engine.
I got a 2014 Kia soul the same engine you're working on and the video I just go down the street and celery and Asperger's what because Matt's spark plugs about to go
Matthew, the laser Iridium plugs that come stock on this engine are actually rated for 80-100 thousand miles. As you can see in the video, my spark plugs, at 50K miles, don't look too bad. IMO you should change them at 50-75K, but to each their own. I will say this... there was a noticeable difference in performance when I installed the Ruthenuim plugs versus the laser Iridium stock plugs that were in there. Not really a difference in fuel efficiency, neither positive or negative, but the little 1.6 engine definitely had noticeably more spunk to it.
I've def seen a more sluggish acceleration, I believe they last to 100k but I prefer to keep the engine at it's best. I will buy the ruthium and see if i feel a difference.
Make Sure to check the Warranty spec's, per how many miles you can drive between each change of your engine plugs! (If your car is still under Warranty, that is...) Also, don't drive Excessive miles without changing them, or they may Cease Up' & Break the Aluminium threads in the Engine Block Head as you remove them! PS. In Canada, the 2017/1.6/(97.6 cu. in,) liter/Kia Soul warranty, specifies to re & re the plugs at (72.000 klic's) or 44.740 miles...Or else, "They," can SCREW YOU OVER, (Not fix for FREE!) if some thing goes afoul with an engine that's still covered by it's warranty!
As far as the spark plugs, plug gap, and air filter, yes, they are the same. However, the PCV is different for the 2 engines. Here is a link to the PCV for the 2.0L on Rock Auto: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/kia,2018,soul,2.0l+l4,3440072,exhaust+&+emission,pcv+(positive+crankcase+ventilation)+valve,5052
Got a question for you. I have a 2016 Kia Soul (base model) that I bought new that read 400 miles range reading on a full tank of gas. Now when I fill it up it gives a range reading of around 340 miles. Why is this?
My apologies for taking so long to get to this. I agree with Ricky. I drive mine pretty hard and I've never gotten 400 out of a tank of gas. I've gotten up to 380 max on a road trip doing the speed limit just to see if I could actually get it. Close, but not quite.
It's always recommended to disconnect the negative battery cable when working on anything electrical on the car. It absolutely prevents anybody from starting the car, or turning on the power if you're working on it or not paying attention if your kid or A hole neighbor were to get in and blow the horn in your face. LOL To be honest though, I rarely do.
Do you know if there is blow by when you take the oil cap off? I've heard that if a car has air coming out of the oil cap when its on, it means the engine is bad/losing compression? The 2015 Kia Soul Manual I have has tons of blow by, but I was told they run like that normally?
To be honest, every car I've ever owned has had some amount of blowback. However, I'm not a true mechanic. I'm at best a really good backyard mechanic lol. In MY experience, if you're using an excessive amount of oil (more than a quart between oil changes) your rings are getting worn and you will have an excessive amount of blowback. That's been the rule of thumb I go by. I hope that helps.
@@travisl5125 I have 145k mile 2015 Kia Soul and it doesn't spit oil, just alot of air. I think yours may have a small issue. That's also quite dangerous to have hot oil spilling out.
@@Alex_Justified wonder if I'm over exaggerating how it sounds, , it's like, little Tiny spatters like sprinkles. Not normal? Other 4 cylinders done it that iv had if I opened the cap, while it's running like on my cavalier. I read the oil pump sprays oil on the camshaft which is right there, which is why
I went out to o' reilly's to buy these exact spark plugs for my 2019 kia soul, they had to special order them from ngk. Total was 67$ for 4. Where did you get yours?
My apologies I'm just now seeing this. I hope it worked out for you. I'm about to do my 100,000 mile update and I'll try to get a better point of view on that. Hope you were able to get it done.
Please, DO NOT use anti seize on your spark plugs anymore. This may still apply for industrial/commercial use, but is unnecessary for consumer/daily driver vehicles, this is a thing of the past that people dangerously use today. Virtually all spark plugs now feature a special anti-seizure nickel or zinc-chromate shell plating. If you us anti seize and torque your plugs to specified torques, you will be stretching the threads to a dangerous threshold, possibly stripping the aluminum threads in the head, or causing breakage of the plug itself. Here are links to some of the top manufacturers (NGK, Bosch, and Autolite) on the use of anti seize. NGK - ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs#:~:text=Metal%20shell%20stretch%20changes%20the,unnecessary%20and%20can%20be%20detrimental Autolite - www.autolite.com/resources/tech-tips Bosch - www.boschautoparts.com/documents/101512/0/0/7cacfcc7-745a-4249-9916-bf8079c7a542 (look at the bottom spark plug cut-away)
@Marylandcowboy it’s not necessary to change the coils unless their bad. That’s kinda like getting new tires every time you change the brakes. Not being mean. Just making a comparison.
@Marylandcowboy I think Ron summed it up... It's not necessary to change out the coils when changing the plugs. As long as your careful taking them off the plugs, they should last a very long time. Considering they're about $50 per coil that could get pretty expensive. Thanks for the comment though.
Sorry, mfsuperspeed I just saw this comment. Please, DO NOT use anti seize on your spark plugs anymore. This may still apply for industrial/commercial use, but is unnecessary for consumer/daily driver vehicles, this is a thing of the past that people dangerously use today. Virtually all spark plugs now feature a special anti-seizure nickel or zinc-chromate shell plating. If you us anti seize and torque your plugs to specified torques, you will be stretching the threads to a dangerous threshold, possibly stripping the aluminum threads in the head, or causing breakage of the plug itself. Here are links to some of the top manufacturers (NGK, Bosch, and Autolite) on the use of anti seize. NGK - ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs#:~:text=Metal%20shell%20stretch%20changes%20the,unnecessary%20and%20can%20be%20detrimental Autolite - www.autolite.com/resources/tech-tips Bosch - www.boschautoparts.com/documents/101512/0/0/7cacfcc7-745a-4249-9916-bf8079c7a542 (look at the bottom spark plug cut-away)
My apologies I just saw this question. I hope you've already found your answer, but if not... The cylinders are 1234 from left to right looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle. The firing order is 1342.
It’s not necessary to change the coils unless their bad. That’s kinda like getting new tires every time you change the brakes. Not being mean. Just making a comparison.