good job. brand new truck and i dont see the use of a torque wrench on re assembly. Is it necessary to torque the upper ball joints and shocks at the proper torque or just crank them tight?
Eric Mahoney It becomes a personal preference at that point. You are reusing the factory hardware, and most of them have nylock nuts, and things of that nature. You will want to ensure that you tighten it as much as possible to keep any bolts from coming loose, but tight is tight. Most balljoints require cotter pins as well.
You will not need one because it doesn't shift that axle that far. However if you are like me where you want everything even and perfect then you may want to look into a drop bracket or adj bar
Just installed this kit that comes with the bilstein 5100's as well. Having an issue to where the difference between the after install measurement has the passenger side off by about a 1/2 inch lower, than the drivers side...thoughts?
MOMS I never did get a response but I think the difference was so small it wouldn't make a difference not to mention time was needed for everything in the suspension to settle. I haven't measured since...if I had to do it over, I would go with a full Carli level with Fox struts and the longer springs, instead of a spacer. Carli sells packages that include everything: (struts, springs, adjustable track bar, sway end links, etc.) They're not cheap but definitely high end stuff that will last forever. Consider longer coils over a spacer honestly...
Height difference is due to caster adjustment.. get an alignment as it will be off after a leveling kit install. That should correct the height difference and make for better driveability
No Sir . The spacer sits in the isolator on one side and the truck spring pocket on the other. The spacer will never come out because of the weight of the truck pressing down and the shock limiting the travel.
