I absolutely HATE how American car makers purposely engineer stupid crap like this just to make something as simple as a bulb replacement a proprietary job for the Ford techs. Just asinine!
I used to have a 2015 Ford Escape SE. I did changed the low beams headlights twice on my own. It was very easy to do. I pulled the cap towards a headlight. Luckily my hands were small enough to get in.
I installed a Sylvania D3S HID into a 2013 Ford Escape Titanium, its a very tight working space. I removed the cowling to give me room to put my head down on the firewall near the negative battery cable connection and look straight into the headlight assembly. You'll need the hands of a surgeon and some chewing gum to remove the bracket retaining screws with a single piece T10 wrench, but it can be done. Use a magnet tool if you have one, right along side the torx wrench so the screw doesn't fall down into the headlight.
I'm facing this myself. My 2013 Escape Titanium HID light has been turning off after 5-10 minutes. Been doing that for over a year now, but with the pandemic I hardly drove it and worked from home. The work from home is coming to an end, so I need to replace both HID lights. Is the ballast attached to the bulb?
@@danr2513 , yep, it is, the ballast is part of the bulb on all brands. I noticed quite a price range in bulbs, and I suspect the lower priced ones found on eBay are cheap copies made in Asia, so I'd recommend buying them from a reputable auto parts store in your neighborhood. The Sylvania ones I used cost about $135 each at a local O'Riellys store. It's also a good idea to replace the pair at the same time, two weeks after I wrote the comment above, I had to replace the other side and remove that cowling again. You'll have to remove the wiper arms, 4 bolts, and then about 8 clips that are a pain, just need to wiggle & jiggle them off.
@@danr2513 well, the 2nd time def went faster than the 1st time. About 15 min to get the cowling off, 20 to get a bulb out and back in, then another 15 to get the cowling and wipers back on. If you budget an hour & half, you'll be close to what you need. One other point, the 1st time I tried to use a T10 bit inside a bit holder, but the screws are too close to the ballast and makes that challenging, also too dangerous to drop something down inside the headlight assembly. Better to get a single piece T10 screwdriver with a normal shaft width, then you'll have better visibility when your head is upside down looking in there...
I believe they will all be about the same because they will want to take the bumper off. This video shows an alternative way and in the comments, others have done similar fixes.
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