J motors are such a Gem. The 6-6 are geared just right too, they put all 260hp down to the ground ez. These with FBO/Tune go kinda crazy for a family sedan/coupe
Unless he opts for a narrower diameter one that’s shorter, he’s not going to have an issue going to a BETTER one of the same length and diameter. Most people just slim it down, but the design has better perforation, so it still does a “decent” job of containing any rasp there is. But usually without deleting the pre-cats or installing an aftermarket catless j-pipe, there’s not much rasp with all of the stock cats still intact. With me, I personally had a fully catless setup, which to be fully tamed and actually decently quiet, needed at least two 18-20” resonators and/or glasspacks (one down the midpipe, and another one down the b-pipe end section of the midpipe). Without those, any cat delete (especially pre-cat deletes) is going to sound ultra raspy.
That's what you need to do for Toyota V6's also, delete the 3rd cat but leave the resonator and it sounds so good. I'm going to do a 3rd cat delete on my Sienna but leave the rest stock for now, get a little more power and sound out of it but keep it silent at highway speed for road trips.
@@FTS1776-2 13-17 accords came with 1 piece design j pipes, meaning the 3rd cat was part of it. older accords had bolted on 3rd cats.. I just chopped it off and added 2.25" pipe on my 2013
@@FTS1776-2I usually find a cheap generic factory style replacement (so you can keep the OEM stock j-pipe), and then gut the 3rd cat. Unless you don’t care about the factory 3rd cat, then it’s the same exact concept. This is probably one of the easiest, stealthiest mods to do, especially if your state isn’t super strict on emissions testing.
1:44 I wasn’t looking at my phone and i thought they started a damn v8 for a second 🤣 i didn’t know them 3.5 sounds that good with no muffler i might have to do it
Yeah, I really wanted to for the 9th gen Accord sedan and coupe, but just never could. I did try on an axleback with staggered quad tips, and that was actually okay, but the only other exhaust I was planning to run, was the ATLP 3” quad exit catback exhaust.
Just sold my 9th gen Honda Accord V6 manual sedan recently, after doing cams and a bunch of stuff every other serious (and semi-serious) J series enthusiast was after. I got kinda sick of FWD, and wanted to chase some good ole’ American NA V8 RWD sports/muscle car goodness. Ended up getting a 5th gen Chevy Camaro 2SS manual coupe. I still have a bunch of parts for sale, so if anyone’s interested, comment below, and I’ll link my Offerup. I’m updating parts at the moment, but a good chunk of my parts have sold, so let me know!
@@FTS1776-2 Hmm…. - OEM Acura J37A4 intake manifold and throttle body - OEM Acura 15-20 TLX 25.4mm rear sway bar (BRAND NEW) - 13-17 (9th gen) Honda Accord I4 - K&N typhoon air intake - 9th gen Accord V6 - aFe Takeda Dry Pro S air intake - 9th gen Accord - DC Sports front strut tower bar (BRAND NEW) - Truebendz 3” full customizable catback exhaust kit (BRAND NEW); can select from 2 diff types of 3” resonators, 2 diff types of 3” rear mufflers - 13-15 Accord coupe - Aero Works HFP rep side skirt (fiberglass) kit, matte black primer painted (BRAND NEW) - 16-17 Accord SPORT (2.4L I4) sedan - generic splash/mud guard kit (BRAND NEW) - 18x8.5 Avid1 AV28, +35 ET offset, SATIN WHITE (square) wheelset; will come with aluminum Accord hubcentric rings - 13-17 Accord V6 - ATLP V2-R (catless) 3” j-pipe, 2.5” collectors; can include weld-on 3” high flow cat for some small change (originally planned to buy a catted j-pipe, but got impatient due to 3-4+ month build time) - 13-17 Accord V6 - RV6 V2 HFPC’s, 2.25” collectors - 13-17 Accord sedan- Rev9 2.5” catback exhaust; will throw in extension pipe and adapter if for a COUPE model - 13-17 (9th gen) Honda Accord 2.4L I4 (K24W1) - RV6 PCD, black ceramic heat coated - 13-17 Accord I4 MANUAL - OEM starter motor (CORE ONLY) - 13-17 Accord I4 MANUAL - OEM alternator - 9th gen Accord V6 manual (J35Y2) - OEM Honda lower intake runners, P2R ported and polished (BRAND NEW) - Gen 2-3+ J-series J35 - P2R plenum spacer (BRAND NEW) - OEM 9th gen Honda Accord (LX, EX models) - chrome muffler/tailpipe “finisher” aka exhaust tips; comes with 2” piping from cut stock mufflers, but tip section and tip is made for 2.25” piping - OEM Honda, 08-17 Accord MANUAL (K/J series) - factory rubber shifter cable bushings - CNC’d aluminum shift boot retainer; comes with 2 shift knob height options - CNC’d aluminum, silver - Honda/Acura 6-speed manual engraved shift knob; red detailing - 13-17 Accord I4 sedan - single exit 2.25” custom catback; has two 20” Magnaflow resonators and a 3” Magnaflow rep, fiberglass straight-through muffler - 13-17 Honda Accord I4 sedan - custom single exit 2.25” catback exhaust; same setup as before, but with 2.5” Megan dual tip muffler (chrome) - ATLP for Acura/Honda Gen 2-3 V6, J35 - high flow 3rd cat, Magnaflow metallic core (will also fit 9th gen 13-17 Accord I4 MANUAL, as a 2nd cat); comes with OEM Honda cat heat shielding - 9th gen 13-15 Honda Accord sedan - HFP REP body kit; front bumper and read bumper pieces are paint matched Metallic Steel Gray; side skirts are still unpainted ABS plastic (BRAND NEW) - Revsol Honda - custom leather stitched, gloss finished carbon fiber w/red stripe, race steering wheel with squared bottom (NON E-gauge model) - AVS for 13-17 Accord coupes - in-window visors, smoked black (BRAND NEW) - OEM 13-17 Honda Accord I4 (K24W1, 2.4L) - front strut tower brace bar; can PAINT or PAINT MATCH whatever color at request; comes factory satin black powdercoated I have lots more….. I just need more photos and whatnot. Needs to go ASAP, I can price it at whatever is on my current apps, and I will take some reasonable offers. Trying to sell big parts and pieces and bundles LOCALLY, but will work with you to make out bundles or multiple parts sale(s).
@@FTS1776-2 I have beyond WAYYYYY too much stuff from over 8+ year ago…. I really need to move and sell shit, so pls let me know or your friends know. I have some stuff on Facebook Marketplace and Offerup and eBay, but maybe about only half the stuff I wrote out. Once I post more listings/ads, feel free to share around. I’ll update this, or my most active selling platforms as things sell. Some things, like catback exhaust systems, I will either have to CUT to fit, or YOU will have to help me pay for shipping… Everything else, I can manage to fit, and will be reasonable with what I can and cannot ship.
@@FTS1776-2 sorry for the late reply Parts left for sale, for 9th gen Honda Accord (as of 06/28/24) I sold most but I still have: - J37A4 intake manifold and throttle body - P2R J35 lower intake runners (brand new); comes with a P2R thermal intake manifold gasket - P2R J35 plenum spacer (brand new) - FAPO 9th gen Accord coilovers (brand new) - K&N Typhoon air intake system, 9th gen Accord I4 (2.4L), CARB legal - P2R Big Bore TB adapter kit (brand new) - K&N oiled, drop-in air filter, for 9th gen Accord I4 and for V6 (3.5L) - Tru Bendz 3” single exit exhaust for J35 setup; can choose from 2 different resonators and 2 different mufflers (all brand new)! - Gutted stock pre-cats and gutted stock j-pipe, for 9th gen Accord V6 (brand new) - ATLP V2-R catless j-pipe; will include SEPARATE weld-on 3rd cat for j-pipe if desired
I have a 2013 accord exl v6 sedan. I want a freer flowing exhaust, but between inspections and the new SLEEP act (read up on it... It's absolutely migraine-inducing), not sure what to do. Maybe borla s-type, or am i pushing my luck even with that? I'm in NY.😢 Thanks!
I have the same car and want better muffler - not straight pipe and not too loud, especially on highway. I can not afford borla system. What muffler is best for mild sound just 20-30% louder than factory?
The stock axleback is from a single 2.25” midpipe, with a common 3-bolt, triangle flange that turns it into a 2.25-1.83” tapered y-pipe muffler exit. However, the tailpipes are flared back into 2.25” at the very end, to give the “illusion” of having a full 2.25” exhaust. It’s much easier to just cut it right after the flange and build a custom y-pipe muffler setup (or muffler delete); whatever your preference is.
@@ktb660Not if you drive it hard and track it. It’s great for mild daily driving and occasional spirited driving. The manual has it’s downfalls, but they’ve been limited to known occurring issues over the years, that can easily be fixed or adjusted with just driving techniques. There’s a reason people who want to make a lot more power than a simple FBO and tune setup, and for occasional tracking and racing, often opt for the manual trans option, aside from just an “engaging” driving experience. Some people with the automatic think they’re bulletproof and they’re absolutely not. I’ve had people who track their cars without changing the trans fluid, and then continuing driving it even AFTER tracking and racing on it. They ended up with worn out ATF and months to a year later, the damage was done. Even flushing it after, the damage didn’t fully fix itself.
That, and a better resonator. The stock resonator does a shit job at doing anything more than the drone and resonance of the stock exhaust manifolds and catback piping. Once you start deleting any of the pre-cats or running high flow cats or a catless j-pipe, you’re most likely going to need a much better quality resonator; often opting for a longer one if the replacement resonator or glasspack is slimmer in diameter.
18’s are a personal good middle-ground for these chassis’ I feel, as is many other Japanese and a few other import cars around the same era. These eventually came in a 19” option with the facelift (16-17), but the tires were too “low profile” for my taste, while having pretty heavy stock wheels. And 20” and bigger is pretty much only for strictly looks; there’s no way any serious person with this chassis of an Accord (or prior) is going to be rocking 20”+ on a track, let alone doing any serious driving/racing.
Well, it doesn’t sound like a trumpet like Nissan/Infiniti and every other V6 with UEL headers. A muffler delete on a completely stock exhaust setup for these V6 Accords, is actually probably one of the cheapest options for weight reduction, a bit extra power up top, and some extra sound, without sacrificing a shitload of money for a fully custom axleback. Deleting the resonator (or running a non-resonated midpipe) is usually a bad idea, especially with cats. Now THAT, is usually when you’d regret messingnwith the exhaust on these Honda/Acura J-series exhaust systems. They become raspy like tin cans and a hoard of bees, depending on the rest of the exhaust setup; usually with the pre-cats (headers/downpipes) or all of the cats removed altogether….
Que hermoso suena ese Accord V6..poderoso elegante. Aca en argentina tengo gracias a Dios un Accord V6 2010 impecable del mismo color ...me encantaría. Ponerlo así deportivo ..❤.abrazo para todos ....
