I like that you addressed the safety concerns of the radio head. I'm not sure many people think about that. Also, love the way you snaked the antenna through the back door supports. Thanks! I just got my FT400XDR this week. I intend to use it more as a portable, by using it in multiple cars, out of my garage and on the back patio. Need to really think how I'm gonna do this without just placing it in the seat next to me.
I've asked Santa for a new rig...She said yes...! Thanks for the Panavise suggestion. I'm going to really consider that for the control head. Merry Christmas.
Nice job! One recommendation... You might think about getting some black “Split Loom” to put your power and ground wire in under the hood. Makes the wiring look much more factory. Add a zip every 12-18”. You can buy it at almost any car audio shop. 👍
The timing of this video is very helpful though a hair late. I just purchased a Yaesu FTM-100DR and the reason was I needed to stop having my mobile rig sitting on the passenger seat all the time. Plus it's that time of year when I need to buy myself a Christmas present, and relieve my wife of that responsibility [wink]. The tip on how to do the antenna on the rear gate is a good one, which I'll do at a later date probably. Mounting that control head has been a key question - Lido has some interesting options, and I'll probably go with the gooseneck from the seat base. I think. Still working on it. My local mechanic did a good job putting the cable through to where I need it. But in all, it was a fairly challenging project with all those pieces, and your video is an excellent and helpful contribution to those of us who find such things daunting. Thanks, and 73s.
I spent about a month and a half researching the best solution for installing the radio, although part of that time was waiting for warm to work on the car (Wisconsin in November can get quite chilly). I considered the gooseneck mount, my only concern was interference with the gear shift lever as I have a manual transmission- but it may work great for you.
Add a couple pieces of hook velcro and that board will stay put. Nice transceiver and install. If the radio has an auxiliary audio input add a cable from the transceiver to it to get better sound through the cars audio system.
Nice install, Michael. As I mentioned earlier, I installed the same rig in my 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee. After 100k miles, I felt it was OK to drill some holes for the mic clip and a speaker. The Yaesu speaker is a good choice ... Clear and plenty loud. Main thing I did differently is opt for a mag mount on the roof. Easy enough to remove if I need to, but good performance and good garagability (I have an extra tall garage door).
When you realize that drilling holes is no longer going to affect the resale value, punch out as many as you want. I've certainly done that with of the other beaters that I've driven.
Searched several vids before finding yours. To the point and useful while still including product links, but without being a commercial for merch. Thanks.
Hey Mike. Found your channel a couple years back I was very intrigued by the information regarding amateur radio. It wasn’t until earlier this year I finally decided to strap down and go through the process of getting a license since I was very interested in understanding about radio science as well as having alternative means of communication and situation is a disaster and even just general community service purposes. I found this video very helpful for coming up with an installation idea for my 2015 Honda CRV. The mountain and 10 I have is quite similar to what you used in this video, but the antenna is a longer model from comet. I was able to pass the cable and guided using the adhesive guys which the mount shipped with, and then secured it between the passenger seats and floor cover. I use some Velcro tape on plate for the body of my FTM 300, and a lido mount cup holder mount for the mic and control head. in terms of power, I actually use our Anderson power pole DC plug near the front of my vehicle center consul. I have heard some cautionary tales regarding DC sockets not being strong enough for mobile radio, but I found out that Honda did have the auxiliary circuits a quote for a 20 amp fuses, give me a Sumption they were using at least gauge 12 wiring and that it would be safe to run my mobile radio.
Great tips here! I have a 2013 Legacy and a Yaesu FTM-300 (similar car and radio) and your demonstration helped me come up with a good plan for a neat install. I plan on putting a small Icom speaker in the center console for good audio.
Thanks Michael .. I've been searching for mobile installation tips and your video is very helpful. I have the Subaru Forester with similar hatch back .. I like how you mounted the antennae. I also like the idea of placing the radio on a board to slide under the seat .. simplifies things plus makes it easy to remove if I want it to double as a base station. Thanks again.
@@BroomfieldRR .. I have not. I'm looking at the anytone now that the bluetooth controller is available .. this way the radio can be mounted out of view.
Congrats, brother!! Another new rig-addition to the family!! Well done!! Nice vid, looking forward to more videos/demos on your new setup. Cool car, too!! Your loyal subscriber, Norman in Montreal.
Thanks for the video. I bought a good 2011 Outback and was thinking about install this morning. FWIW, In my Legacy I used the single DIN "cup", which is above the radio, to mount the control head. You can do a no-holes mount by putting a small piece of wood attached to the top of the cup (out of view) and then attach the control head to it. Yes, you do lose the convenient cubby hole though.
I'm in the process of doing this. Thanks. Selected the Kenwood 710 in a Prius. Setting up a Ram Mount but was not aware of Pana Vise. At the moment wires are everywhere but I heard corrugated plastic from Hargor Freight works. Running my wires to the trunk since the battery is there on the Prius. Nice video with all the outages.
Hi Michael. One thing I must stress in regards to mic placement when not using, make sure you don't put it in a cubby hole in the console. I did that and found the mic was keyed up, fortunately I noticed quickly and removed it from the cubby hole. Speaking of cubby holes I have one in my Traverse that I simply cut a piece of wood that would fit snug and mounted it to the back of the control head bracket (I'm using an FT7900) so when I feel I need to remove the control head from view I just unplug the cable, pull the head out and put it in the glove box. My external speaker sits on the console under the arm rest to give me good audio. Oh and as far as the radio under the drivers seat, make sure there aren't any heat vents for the back seat passengers located under the drivers or front passengers seats. The radio will not like the heat! 73s Mark NØVUB
I have a 2011 Legacy in which I installed the same radio. The interior appears to be mostly the same on yours as mine. I put the control head on a mount that was in that cubby to the left of where you have the control head. I have short arms so that put it closer and made it more comfortable to operate. By this point you've probably already put an external speaker in but I put one in that little spot behind the shifter where you set your microphone in this video. For the power I found a hole in the firewall above the gas pedal. I have the radio body mounted in the trunk on the bottom side of the package shelf so I ran the power down the drivers side under the door trim and the mic, control, and speaker cables up the passenger side under the door trim.
Hi Michael. Nice rig. I would say that, by now, with everybody making those remote head radios, they could stick a decent sounding speaker in the head and agree that will be industry standard. There are one or two that did it years ago, I think.
I've got an Icom IC-208H dual band sitting on the bench in my shack. It has a speaker in its removable head. Sometimes I think the older radios were more ahead of their time than some of the modern rigs.
I installed an Icom 2730 in my 04 Tacoma, and recently started using a Nite Ize Steelie to hold my mike to the dash. While they are spendy, they work well, and I can just grab and pull, rather than have to lift off of a hook, yet the magnet still holds strong enough for washboarded mountain roads.
A cautionary note on the Outback's electrical system... monitor the battery voltage as the charging system logic as programmed from the factory habitually undercharges the battery under certain driving conditions such as many shorter trips. Subaru has released a TSB 11-176-17 to reprogram the ECM to correct the issue. My '15 outback had a dead battery at less than 2 years old and the replacement battery now won't hold a charge over 12.3V which is very low. I'm replacing the damaged (and small) battery and getting the ECM update. The factory size battery on my 2.5L model was a group 26 which is very small. The battery area on my car will accommodate a group 24 standard lead-acid battery which provides a RC of 120-130 - a better option since I have a FTM-400 and a TS-480 wired in.
Thanks for the tip, that's good to know. I believe the battery in the vehicle is the original, so it would be five years old this year- close to its end of life. I'll monitor it and replace it with a larger group-24 battery when the time comes.
drill a hole on top of the roof I did mine two antennas duel ldmos amp liquid cooled. self powered meaning nothing runs off the car. 73s and great video
That model probably has a large glass sunroof and you'd have to take that into account if drilling the roof for NMO mount. The antenna would be placed well toward the rear of the vehicle
Thanks for the great video Michael. I have the same radio in a ‘15 Outback with Nav. My control head is in the cubby so that I can close the cubby for security when the car is parked. That trim piece removal method, who knew!
This is where I put the control head on mine too. I mounted the radio vertically on the back of the left rear seat and ran the audio forward into the aux. audio input. Since I didn't want to drill a hole in the roof, I put a mag mount up there and the coax goes over to the luggage rack, under the rubber weather seal back to the hatch and down into the cargo area.
I have a 2015 Outback and I'm using your tutorial down to the detail. I just made my order for all the parts for the install. I am using the Yaesu ftm 300 instead of the 400. Other than that, I'm following your video. I love how clean your install looks. You made mention of a video you watched about taking the wire through the hatchback for back up cameras and that it was very helpful. I would love to have that link to that video so I could see if it would help me with my install. I love your videos and have subscribed to your channel. Keep up the great work! 73s
Really enjoyed this video! I have a Subaru Outback 2016 that I've been holding off on putting a radio in, but after watching your video I think I'll give it a try!
Have almost completed the same install, though likely to add a West Mountain Radio epic pwrgate. Also the Nite Ize didn't work as well as I was hoping, but will fiddle with that some more. The Pana Vise did work very well for the display head. Again might fiddle with that to make it a magnetic mount/unmount like my Icom ID-880H. Still have to finish the antenna mount and wiring through the trim. Any good reference sites you used for that part?
Hey Michael! I have a question for you. Did your antenna mount damage your vehicle’s paint at all? I’m looking to get a similar setup going in my 2010 Forester, but I’m concerned about damaging the paint.
Thanks for the video. I looked up your mount from panavice and it was no longer available. I did some searching around and found one that might work. I have also looked at the Lido mounts for radios. I like the firm mount behind the trim you did, but the Lido has options for more radios. Of course I could be creative. This is going in my first ever brand new truck (GMC Sierrra SLT 1500 2021 model). I have always purchased used vehicles for me so this is like yours, new truck, with new gear. Thanks again for your video. All the best, 73, de KI5HXM
Another one who won't drill a hole in the roof of their car for an NMO mount. I took my 1-month old 2014 Subaru Outback to my local Motorola radio shop and had them install the NMO mount and a 30A power cable. Ten years in, no leaks, no rust, no problems, but great antenna performance.
I myself drilled holes for antennas in many of my past vehicles. Never felt that I needed to go to a radio shop to have it done. For this car, a mount on the liftgate suited my purposes just fine.
Excellent installation, but I would use another 12 v Batter with Charger to operate when engine is off. As far as mounting a speaker, I would mount the speaker near the rear off the floor.
Thanks for all the helpful info. I just purchased the panavise mount and have the Yaesu ftm400 on order. My question is Did that 5mm bolt that you used come with the Yaesu and if not where can I find one?
Excellent video, Michael. KO4YFL here. One thing I didn't catch was the length of coax needed. Was the 13.5'l long enough? or did you need to add some? I am thinking of a similar install on my Rav4 hybrid and it seems at first glance that would not be long enough.
I was about two feet short. The cable takes a circuitous route through the lift gate and I needed to add a short extension to get to the radio under the driver seat
Another airbag to be cautious of: Some newer cars have airbags at knee level in the footwell. I’ve seen some radios mounted on a arm coming up from the passenger or driver’s side footwell. If an airbag is equipped there then that isn’t a very good spot to mount.
Great to the point video Michael. I have this same radio coming.....when they catch up on backorders. I would love to see some more examples on how you have the rig set up with regards to programming settings and frequencies. Side note.....you are somewhat local to me in central Wisconsin.
Not typically for VHF/UHF communications. The lift gate is large enough to be a ground plane on its own and the FM is pretty immune to engine noise, so bonding isn't required.
I ordered a yaesu ftm 400 but still on back ordered since November going to install my 2019 outback can’t wait to get it KC1JQX very nice video really enjoyed it thank you
Greetings. I realize this video has been up a while, but I have a question and hope you see this and can answer. I'm planning to install a Yeasu FTM-300DR in my Jeep Wrangler and am using the exact antenna and mount you used in this video. My question is, did you ground the K400S to the lip of your lift gate, or did you just attach it without grounding? After I ordered this antenna, I noticed on Comit's Website that this antenna is ground independent. I just assumed, before I noticed it was ground independent, that the base should be grounded. Would it matter much either way? Grounded or not grounded? Thank you..
I have made that consideration, and may do a little research on my options of running the audio through the sound system before I add an external speaker. I do like to listen to the FM broadcast radio when i"m not talking on the mobile, so I'd have to figure out if the two can coexist.
I recently purchased an Outback and found that the K400 mount isn't compatible due to the extensive cladding on the vehicle. In your video, it appears that the cable is routed through a grommet. I'm curious, after all this time, have you experienced any water leakage through that grommet? Did you make a slit in the grommet for a better fit, or did you just place the grommet over the cable? I've just finished installing it on my car and passed the cable through the grommet. However, the grommet now sits over the cable, leaving the hole not entirely sealed by the grommet. I'm wondering if you've encountered any issues with this setup. thx
I made a slit into the grommet for the vehicle wiring harness and routed the power cable through that. I sealed the slit up with a bit of tape and have not noticed any leaks in the last five years.
I was looking at your trunk mount. I have a 2013 Subaru Forester, which has a similar rear hatch. I'm going to do an HF mobile installation on my car (last time was on a different vehicle, years ago, and the type of installation I used then isn't possible on my car). How have you grounded the antenna (I used to ground my previous mount directly to the chassis), and have you used this mount for HF as well as VHF/UHF?
The antenna mount is only for a VHF/UHF whip, so the grounding isn't too extensive, the screws on the antenna mount pierce the paint and offer an adequate connection. If I was going to do HF, I was certainly bond more of the vehicle. That it, creating a stronger connection from the antenna mount to the hatch back and running a ground strap at the hinges of the hatch to bond it to the body of the vehicle.
Thank you for the video and installation. I just got my licence a few weeks ago and wanted to mount a similar radio in my car. Have you explored adding a bluetooth connector to the main radio and projecting audio out to a bluetooth speaker? There are speakers on Amazon that retail for 15 bucks that are suction mounted so I was wondering whether that could be possible for a cleaner install of an external speaker.
Putting an antenna outback on an outback is more than a compromise. I would test it with an antenna analyzer. I've seen lots of antenna installs like this that have lots of reflections off the body.
Yep, that's always a concern, especially if you aren't mounting the antenna on the roof. I did check things out with the analyzer and the SWR is good for both the 2 meter and 70cm bands.
did you ground the antenna by using the K400 mount set screws into sheet metal? Of course that would not mean that the liftgate would be grounded via the hinge mechanism.... thoughts on grounding here?
Grounding is a good idea but usually not essential for VHF/UHF antennas. If I was using an HF antenna on the liftgate I'd ground the K400 and would also make sure there is a good ground connection to the frame of the vehicle. I did measure SWR and it comes in under 1.3:1 for the VHF and UHF amateur bands.
It is and it isn't; it really depends on the type of antenna. The purists will disagree‚ but with mobile antennas your vehicle can act as a ground plane even though there isn't a strong ground point. That's why mag-mount antennas work even though they aren't grounded.
@@KB9VBRAntennas I see.... sort of like the capacitve coupling that the magnetic mount provides, so does this sort of mount? Well you can't argue with your good SWR, the TX waveform energy is going out the antenna for sure, right?
How did you decide to mount your microphone? I ended up supergluing earth magnets to the back of the mic and one to the trim above the climate control and so far so good. 73
It's so difficult finding clear information on ham radio. Is the ideal goal to have a 1/1-wavelength radio? And the smaller you get, the worse it will work? I read a lot about 1/4, 1/2, and 5/8 wavelength antennas, but no explanation.
This is a really great question, and one that is not fully explained if you are studying the Technician license material. So hold on tight for a bit of antenna theory: TLDR: The 1/4 wave is the most efficient and effective radiator and most antennas are built on this foundation. Longer doesn't necessarily mean better. Think back to high school physics, waves have three components: the crest, the valley, and the midpoint. If electricity is applied to the wave (Radio Frequency of RF energy is composed of AC or Alternating Current electricity), voltage will be low and current high at the midpoint. At the crest voltage will be high and current low. The cycle continues towards the valley of the wave. If the radiator is 1/4 wave, the voltage will be highest at the end of the antenna, effectively converting the electrical energy into RF energy. But as we lengthen the antenna, it will still radiate energy. What changes is how it radiates. For example, a 1/4 wave may have a uniform radiation pattern and if you lengthen the antenna to 1/2 wave or 5/8 wave, the pattern will flatten or create lobes of radiation. Depending on the type of antenna and the application, this can be advantageous. But normally we fall back to 1/4 wave for its efficiency. The other big factor with changing the radiator length is that it also changes the impedance of the feed point. Our radio equipment is designed to handle a 50 ohm impedance at the feed point of the antenna. We like to use 1/4 wave style radiators (either individually or combined as a dipole) because the impedance is low at the feed point, making it easy to match the antenna to the transceiver. 1/2 wave and 5/8 wave end fed antennas will have a high impedance that requires some type of transformer. A full wave antenna can have a low impedance at the feed point if antenna is configured into a loop. This is a pretty simplistic explanation, antenna theory gets into the weeds really quick with lots of physics, math, and engineering. I hope this gives you a basis of understanding, though.
I’m here again. I was looking up some NMO mounts and I like the Comet dual band. It has the fold over mount which is manual. Some have mentioned that the sheet metal on the roof gets fatigued from these mounts. What do you say, wise one? I have located the point on the roof I would drill a hole for the NMO mount, but when I saw the fatigue experience from another comet antenna I got nervous. Thanks for any clarification/experience you can share on this. All the best, 73 de KI5HXM
Years ago I had a Ford Crown Vic and ran the Comet SBB7 antenna with an NMO mount on the trunk of the car. I didn't have any issues with metal fatigue, and that's a pretty substantial antenna. I know a ham that uses a bug catcher on his trunk and he added a thin metal plate on the underside of the mount for more stability. These days law enforcement puts all kinds of antennas on the roof of their vehicles, including 5/8 wave VHF sticks, and fatigue doesn't seem to be a problem.
@@KB9VBRAntennas I am thinking of the SBB7. So the metal on the inside could be like a doubler (something we did in aircraft mods in my career - I was electrical not mechanical). That makes sense. Just would want to carry the load on ribbing and not just skin or I would just be moving the stresses to another part of the skin. As an engineer I might be over thinking this. But that is half the fun of solving these problems, right? Haha.
Michael, I really appreciate your content. How did you route the coax from the mount to the interior of the lift gate? Is it just sandwiched between the lift gate and the weather seal or is there another entry point on the gate itself that you were able to use?
On the liftgate I ended up popping up part of the plastic on the inside of the door. I then routed the cable up the channel. I think I might have had to use another piece of wire to grab and snake the coax through a channel, but I don't quite remember. At the top of the gate I popped off the rubber boot between the gate and the frame and ran the coax through that. I then peeled off a little bit of headliner to I could get the coax down to the driver side rear pillar where it ended up underneath the pull-up cover for the spare tire, etc. I then ran it along the edge of the back seat to the radio under the driver seat. This is a long run so I need to add about 6 more feet of coax to make it all the way to the radio.
@@KB9VBRAntennas Ahh. Thanks for the clarification. With that and some trial and error pausing the video at just the right moment, I see where you routed it from the mount under the trim on the lift gate. Thanks again!
If you have a 2010-2014 Outback, here's a video of a simple method of removing the trim: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jrvAIDyRt30.html.
I'm sooo glad you asked because I stumbled on this video and it is so easy to remove the trim on the 4th gen Outbacks: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jrvAIDyRt30.html. Basically you stick your hands into the cubby, make a fist and pull.
Great video! I also have a 2014 Outback, even the same color, although I have the CVT. I'd love a manual like yours but the wife couldn't drive it then. I like the idea of that antenna mount and location. How well do you think that location would work for VHF receive only?
This is our second Subaru and we wanted a little bigger car to pull our teardrop trailer: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kKY8ezGJDfg.html, and I'm not totally sold on the CVTs yet. I spent a couple month shopping before I found this vehicle, and I'm loving it so far. The manual transmission does keep my 20 year old son from driving it, which is nice. I think for receive only, locating the antenna on the liftgate should be fine. The location is more of an issue with transmitting as the car body can act as a shield and affect the antenna's radiation pattern.
@@KB9VBRAntennas Thanks for the info. I saw where one guy removed the sat radio antenna and installed an NMO mount there, nice because no drilling is involved, not in the center of the vehicle though. I like the idea of it being on the lift gate as I would not need to remove the antenna to pull into the garage.
I am going to be attempting this same installation on my ‘15 Outback. Same radio too! I’m curious about the wiring to the battery as far as fused cables and where to get that. Any suggestions?
Update... I have now completely finished my install. I used your video as a template for the whole install I did. I went with the Yaesu ftm 300dr instead of the 400. Love it!!! Install went picture perfect except the antenna cable was a few feet too short and had Diamond make another cable about 3 feet longer. Works great! Thanks for your video it was very helpful!
I have a Subaru Crosstrek..also with the good transmission ;) This is going to help a lot, thanks! Edit: On the K400S there looks to be a lip that hangs off the left side of the mount. Is it a tight fit between that lip and the bumper?
To a certain extent you are correct. Also locating the head midway down, you can give it a quick glance without taking your eyes off the road. Distracted driving is a serious concern and I'm not sure if there is any one location for a radio head that eliminates that risk. For your second point, I don't have any issues with the GPS in that space.
Alternator whine can be a tricky proposition. It may be a signal that one of the diodes in the alternator has gone bad and the power isn't as clean as it should be. With a 2001 vehicle that could very well be the case. A common solution is a brute-force filter near the alternator. This consists of large capacitor and chokes to filter the power. But simpler methods also exist. First: take your power directly from the battery, so you are subject to the vehicle's power system noise, and second: make sure you have a good ground, both for power and the antenna. Here's some additional resources: www.arrl.org/automotive
When a person indicates in a title the word "install" cable pulling, drilling, etc. would be indicative of the installing process which this was clearly not. However, had you indicated that you would give highlights about your install, that would have been more definitive about the video. Your video is still good, just not what I was expecting from the title description.
My 20yo son won't drive it, but my 22yo daughter wants to take it for a spin. Her first car was a 94 Civic 5-speed. He, on the other hand, never got the hang of a manual transmission.
We had a Forester for a long time and I was in the market for a little bigger vehicle to pull our tear-drop trailer. I'm not totally sold on the CVT transmissions so I searched for about 2 months until an Outback within 100 miles of me came around with a manual transmission, low miles, and a good price.
I'm about to do the same setup on my Subaru outback. My question is why did you go with the diamond mount versus the comet mount. What were you conclusions why it was a better application?
I've used the Diamond lip mounts previously and have been satisfied with their performance. The Comet mounts are very good too, so pick the one that you feel most comfortable with. The reason I went with the K400S-NMO is that it is a very robust mount and I know with its location that there will be quite a bit of vibration when I open and close the liftgate.
@@KB9VBRAntennas last question as I'm about to do the install on my Subaru. Did you have any grounding or swr issues with the diamond mount or comet antenna?
@@FreebirdHikes I didn't have any issues, the SBB5 needed little to no adjustment. But that antenna is a half wave, so grounding isn't super critical. I have a friend that needed better grounding for an antenna on his '16 Outback, so he took a piece of coax outer braid and ran it from the antenna mount to a bolt on the liftgate. That gave him a good enough ground for his purposes. If you are running into problems, that may be a solution for you.
Great video. Have a couple questions. Comet sbb5 vs. Diamond nr770hb, you opinion? What about the internal GPS device, I've heard others adding an external? _KD9MDX
I think the Comet SBB5 and Diamond NR770HB are practically identical antennas. They share the same specs and almost look alike. As for GPS units, the older Kenwood D-700 and first generation D-710 required an external GPS. But I think almost all GPS enabled radios have the GPS built in now. The FTM-400XDR has an integrated GPS in the control head. The problem is that if you mount the head in a location that obscures the GPS antenna, like deep in the dash away from a window, then you may need an external unit to receive a reliable GPS signal. So you can add an external GPS antenna if necessary.
@@KB9VBRAntennas well thank you very much for responding. I'm sure of what I need to do now to get this unit in my jeep. Appreciate all the help. 73 _ KD9MDX
There was no cable pulling in the video- but I did illustrate all the access points and cable routes I used- plus I gave instruction on mounting the control head and body of the radio. I'm not sure what else you need
Yes it is. My Outback has the 6-speed manual transmission. They are rare to find, but I lucked out when car shopping and found this one at a dealership about 90 miles away.
When the weather gets a bit warmer I'll seal the slit up with silicone. Otherwise I would think things would have to get awful wet in your engine compartment for an appreciable amount of water to leak into the footwell.
Thanks for this video. I put the install in my 2015 Subaru Outback on the backburner after thinking about the Eyesite system and airbags. Your video has inspired me to take another look. I will probably mount the antenna at the left hood/fender line. I also viewed this technique for console access ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jrvAIDyRt30.html
I used the same method to remove the console trim. It just popped right off. Hopefully the same method works for the 2015 as there was a design change that year, but the console looks pretty similar.
