@@chickenshippfarmsandoutdoo4617 hey Im watching this video for the 5th time ,,,your video states ISX15 (like mine) but the link states ISX-12 ..Again thank you for your help..if i can get this done I'm cashaping you something
I had to remove an exhaust manifold bolt and spacer to be able to get to one of the top bolts on the egr cooler. Even with the swivel I couldn't get it without removing one exhaust manifold bolt. Those top bolts on the egr cooler were very tight. I had to us an impact wrench to get them off.
Future reference. When taking out two studs. Take two nuts and screw them on. Top nut is to use to take off binding against the second nut. It will start taking off stud. Keep going until it becomes stiff. Spray penetrating oil and tighten back on to get the oil in the threading. Start taking it off and should come off easy with breaking the stud
Almost 1 million I believe at the time it was around 942k. It's still on the road now with it's new owner. She's been running it over a year now and it's been good to her.
Changing the EGR fixed it, but our mechanics diagnosed the issue. I think it had something to do with how clean the antifreeze was inside the dpf filter housing and there were no compression issues or water inside the cylinders.
Great video, one note, be careful with these aftermarket EGR Coolers, as they are not using the same internal design that Cummins uses, and can lead to overheating of the motor, especially #5 and #6 cylinders. Always best to go with genuine OEM parts, including sensors, on these red motors. If myself, I would also install a Turbo boost gauge and a Pyrometer to monitor the exhaust temps.
