Great video. It helped me do my own brakes today instead of paying the dealer $250. First time I ever did my own brakes. Keep up the good work and thanks for taking the time to do this video! Now I just have to look at a video to do the front.
This video really helped me out, especially the rear brakes & taking off the electric motor. Nice to hear happy children in the background playing too.
Press the stop start button 2x Then press an hold the electric hand brake button down once it starts flashing put your foot on the accelerator do not let go of the electric handbrake button then press the stop start button 3x in quick succession the handbrake will release itself in to service mode Once you have done all the work on the brakes Repeat the process but hold the electric handbrake button up you will hear it unwind itself for about 5 seconds
Hey man, it's been like 5 years since I had to do Brakes and it was on a Chevy Malibu 2011. I hated that car a lot and dreaded doing work on it, but now I have a Mazda 6 2016 and am really excited to take care of this car. This video is so straight forward and easy to follow, the job was fun! Thank you man!
Thank you for the video. It made it easy, though my car has 100k miles and it was difficult to remove the rear rotors. Had to screw in the metric bolt to get the rotors to release, rather than just smacking it with a hammer.
Thanks bro. I've done brake pads but it's been many years. This video gave me the confidence to tackle it on my car. Great job and thanks for sharing it. Your daughter in the background reminded me of when mine were little - they love to hang around when Dad's working like that. Appreciate you bro.
Great tip for compressing the rear brake pistons!!! That one or two little extra steps saves time and aggravation!!! I knew that torx head set I bought on clearance at Sears all them years ago would one day come in handy!!!
Swapped out my rear discs and pads today on my 2016 Mazda 6.....following watching this video found it very straight forward and job was completed in about 50 minutes that included having a cuppa during lol......only thing missing from the video is placing the brake into maintenance mode however not detrimental to the task and plenty other videos showing you how to put the brake into maintenance. Great video made the job a lot easier 👍
A lot videos out there were misleading. Yours was spot on. Thank you for your help. I can't believe I had that #30 and #40 hex bit. You should let your little girl help out, builds character. haha.
@@OldSchoolHacker i thank you sir. I'm going to attempt to do the same thing myself using the same methods as well on a similar mazda, if not , the same. And hopefully all goes smooth. Wish me blessings lol!
zay turner I think you will find that it is not a difficult job if you have some basic mechanical skills. Take your time and it will go smoothly . Blessings be upon you.
EPB service mode is initiated by turning the car "on" without starting it, releasing the ebrake, pressing the accelerator down and holding it down while pressing and holding the ebrake button down. Now push the start button three times and the car should go into service mode. I've done it twice on my 2018 and it works great. I would also use a spreader tool and an old brake pad to compress the piston to ensure even pressure. I was also curious why there were no abutment clips on the caliper. I always replace those and put fresh boots on the slide pins when I regrease them. Nice job overall.
Fyi - if you need to replace the m12-1.25-40 rear caliper bolts because you mangled them like me getting these out, the 2016 Mazda parts catalog is partly wrong and you may get the wrong bolts from the dealer. Apparently there's two different flavors of the 2016 model, and each of them uses different bolts. I had to order the 2017 Mazda 6 bolts to get them to fit in my 2016. Even then, these bolts are too long so they stick out at the end too far and get corroded, making them extremely difficult to get out. I used map gas and it took all my strength and about an hour per bolt to remove.
Great video and technique, getting the piston retracted worked well doing your technique here. I have one question. I have a standard shift as well and did this on my 2016 Mazda 6 sport. I did NOT put the brakes into maintenance mode. I followed each step, but I have spongy brakes now after replacement with new brakes. I did not crack open any brake lines or bleeder screws, so there should not be any air in the lines. The reservoir is at max fluid level. Any suggestions ? Anything to do with readjusting the rear brakes ? Thanks for any guidance.
witching On Maintenance Mode 1. Switch the ignition ON (engine off). (you have to press the start button TWICE) pressing once only gives you ACC power, (do not press on brake otherwise engine will start, engine must be off) 2. Release the electric parking brake. (to release the parking brake, you have to have your foot on the brake pedal, then press down on EPB switch to release it, you will hear the motor releasing and the light on the EPB switch light goes off) • (I'll simplify remaining steps here: after step 2, release foot from brake pedal, and move over and press accelerator pedal down fully and press down on the EPB switch at the same time and hold, then press the start button 3 times quickly, you will hear the motor moving and the yellow parking brake with exclamation point light up) you are now in maintenance mode. Now go do whatever you need to do on the brakes, for the rear brake pistons DO NOT TURN THE PISTONS, compress them straight back like you would do the fronts. After they are compressed back make sure the grooves are lined up in perfect North South orientation per Mazda instructions use Lisle #28600 for minor adjustments only. Ending Maintenance Mode 1. Switch the ignition ON (engine off). (you have to press the start button TWICE (do not press on brake otherwise engine will start, engine must be off) pressing once only gives you ACC power (I'll simplify the remaining steps here: press accelerator pedal down fully and pull up on the EPB switch at the same time and hold, then press the start button 3 times quickly, you will hear the motor moving back and the yellow parking brake with exclamation point goes out) you can then move your foot and press on the brake pedal and pull up the EPB, you will see the normal red brake light light up and you're done.
@Mike I was only referring to Spriteisgood's instructions to putting your brakes into the maintenance mode so your able to compress the piston. To compress the piston you will need to remove the electric brake motor. Jabo sez: IF you follow and IF it works. You don't want any IF'S.
Thanks! Wish I had watched BEFORE! When calipers weren't moving easily I looked you up. Having issue with parking brake warning light staying on. Everything seems to be functioning. May need dealer input. $$$$$!
If you are still having the light on. Maybe you need to restart the procedure just by taking of the caliper screw the ebc(electric brake caliper) all the way back. Than put back together than use the emergency brake to reset it position. If this doesn't help i can call you and further guide you to help you out if needed.
@@JaboTheMechanic Well my friend, the problem was ME! I obviously torqued down the EBC actuator too tight and cracked one mount on each side! Had to replace both @ $75 apiece (delivered price). STILL cheaper than dealer install, have new parts, and am much wiser. Thanks for your concern. Your offer to coach me by phone was incredibly generous!
Nice video man. Do you have issues with the brake pads/rotors "warping"? I find it crazy that the rears wear out on these faster than the front due to the electronic parking brake. On my 2017 Touring, my steering wheel shakes at highway speed braking. Typical vibrations when the rotors have hot spots or "warped" in a sense. Took it to a shop yesterday and they confirmed the rear outer pads have more wear than the inner pads. I'm roughly at 30K miles on them since the pads and rotors were last changed.
At 10:29, are the piston boot safe like that ? Aren’t they prone to getting the caliper boot pinched when it sticks out further than the actual piston head that pushes the caliper ?
Hey Quick question so I tried to do my rear calipers and I didn’t release the electronic brake and kept going turns out I messed up the caliper would I have to replace the motor also
The procedure to put the 2016 Mazda 6 rear breaks into maintenance mode is the following: First, release the parking break, then follow the steps below: 1) Turn ignition on (press ignition button twice !) 2) Depress the gas pedal fully down until you hear a click (keep pedal depressed through the rest of the following steps, DO NOT RELEASE!) 3) Press the parking break lever DOWN (HOLD IT DOWN through the next steps, keep holding the gas pedal down as well!!) 4) Turn ignition OFF (press ignition button once), keep holding the gas pedal and break lever down!! 5) Turn ignition ON (press push button twice!) while still keeping the gas pedal and break lever down. At this time you will see the yellow 'break released' sign somewhere in the upper left corner. You can now turn ignition OFF and release the gas pedal and break lever. After you do the maintenance, you can put the parking break back into active state using the same above procedure, BUT for Step 3 you have to PULL and hold the break level UP. I have tried this few times I had to replace rear break pads on my 2016 Mazda 6 and it always works OK for me. Now I see that Spriteisgood has actually described essentially the same procedure. Good luck!
I’ve got the 15 Mazda6 Grand Touring. To compress the front calipers, all I had to use was a c clamp and it worked fine. The rear, however, gave me some issues and after two hours spent on just one I gave up and took it to a shop. They had to use a tool to twist AND compress at the same time. Not sure if they were telling the truth but still, thought I’d let y’all know.
Is it necessary to put in service mode? I mean u take off the electric motor off nd back it off by hand. Wats the difference if u don’t put it in service mode
SO you cant just twist the cylinder to compress it back in anymore, instead of having to remove that module first? I've done a lot of rear brakes and I always just turned those back in with a pair of needle nose pliers or one of those tools. I have a 2014 Mazda 6 GT and I did the rear brakes a while back. It didn't even have that electronic module. The brakes were the same as my other older Mazda 6 cars. I have 3 of them. Also have a Mazda 3. These cars have been very inexpensive for me to keep running myself.
So what you did with the T40 screw and bottomed it out, grabbed your pliers and squeezed. Do you HAVE to do that? Or is that only for your manual, or at other reason? Also should I apply grease anywhere else besides the brake pad contact points?
Hey bro, where did you find that procedure for the rears? I have a 2016 Mazda 6 and I’m going to have to do front and rear pads and rotors soon! Thanks a lot! Oh mine is an auto
For the front you dont have to do anything special. But there is a procedure for the rear. if you look through the comments. You can find on Mitchell on demand or all data
Thanks for the quick response bro. I was confused because I did see another video of a guy doign rear brakes as well and for reason he was twisting in the piston. But this was on the rear passenger side. Is the piston with the electronic brake control on it the only side that you squeeze in rather than twist in?
I had to replace my rotors and pads for all 4 wheels for my 2017 mazda 6 and i didnt know about the epb service mode and i compressed it all in without taking the epb motor out. And after i installed everything, it brakes well, but when i checked my brake fluid, i notice some brake fluid had spilled some how out of the brake master cylinder. It doesnt leak anymore but my pedal doesnt feel the same. Should i replace my brake master cylinder?
No you dont. What you need to do is take it off and spin it backwards(epb) and put everything back together. Than press the parking brake button to set the emergency brake. Once you do that it will adjust. Don't forget to subscribe😊
Love your tutorial for Team Mazda. Can you give me advice on what could have made the calipers burn out in which I now have to get calipers and rotors for front; almost caught fire...was scary with my son being in the car? Is it best for the dealership to do brake job? or order parts myself and get someone TRUSTWORTHY to do it for me?
Thanks porchia smith! Most likely the caliper is the cause of the issue. The caliper probably locked up and caused the pads rotors and caliper to overheat. Or maybe you accidentally had the emergency brake on while driving I've seen that happen. I would take it to someone you would trust. Job is easy! Hope this helps
Wow. Thats over priced. With just pads rotors and labor it came out to $320 you should shop around for prices to get the most affordable price. Also check yelp for recommended mechanic
@@porchiasmith1924 Funny I have had the same exact experience. They see a female coming. Motivated me to do my own. Pretty easy and definitely not worth that kind of money! These videos are a life saver! Thanks Jabo!
Yes it should be the same as just going to look slightly different but same procedure if you need more info on doing this job please let me know so I can guide you through the job
@@JaboTheMechanic Thank you very much for your swift answer. I shall try again next week when garage is free and I'll keep you posted with latest updates regarding this issue/EPB Motor, which is a useless headache. Best Regards
This worked for me on my right rear, but my piston won't budge on the left rear. I have a piston tool (won't fit in to caliper gap because piston is out too far) and no amount of turning or pushing in with a clamp will budge the piston. WTH am I doing wrong this time? I turn the brake bolt on back of caliper clock wise but it never "stops". Just keeps turning. (2016 mazda cx-9 awd)
I have a question, I changed the rear breaks and rotors last weekend, it has new calipers. After I was hearing a grinding noise so I checked and removed pads and the rotor is rubbing against the caliper. Can you give me tip to fix it.I have 2016 mazda 6 sport automatic.
Hey got another question. So I did my brakes and rotors over The Weekend and did a 20,40,60 break in. And haven’t drove it since. I drove it today and I had to come to a complete stop from high speed and felt a skip when I stopped. Is this because I haven’t broke them in all the way? I probably put in maybe 15 miles so far on the pads and rotors and the rotors do have that shiny material still on them. Just wondering if this is normal and just needs to broken in
Well coming from a high speed and trying to stop. Will cause the abs unit to kick in. You need at least 500 miles on the rotors and pads before being aggressive on them.
Okay so nothing to worry about for now then right ? Doesn’t vibrate when I drive or pull to the right or left when I brake. Do you think also because it still has that coating on it that it’s not going to fully grab right away if I braked aggressively ?
It’s like a shiny zinc coating I believe. Normal driving feels completely fine. It just worried me when I had to come to complete stop and I felt it skipping . So I thought I did something wrong but I’m sure I didn’t. It could of just been too aggressive of a stop
Why the hell are people so hastily replacing rotors! It drives me insane. Rotors are good for a minimum of 80,000 miles so long as no damage has been done by brake pads (that’s only if the pads have completely rubbed away and it was metal on metal grinding). It makes the job 3 times more expensive for the exact same stopping performance. Not to mention a huge waste of material.
so I have a 2016 Mazda 6 SGT and I have had rotor warping issues since about 20k in. I do not drive the car like Nascar trying to conserve fuel. That is why I am replacing my rotors
