Have a look at this beauty! I go over my plans for this new RMK of mine, I'll be making some changes in true PowerModz style so you aren't going to want to miss this!
I really like the idea of a sled coming stock with a belt drive rather then a chain case because It saves so much weight... But I don't understand how having your breaks in such a place that if you where to blow a belt you wouldn't be able to stop makes sense. None the less the sled looks sick and I can't wait to see some footage in the snow!
+Matthew MacIntyre все очень просто! это просто бизнес ! ремень изнашивается и рвется чаще а стоимость дороже ! это расходный материал который вам неизбежно придется покупать ! а значит дополнительный прибыль для компании полярис я вас уверяю выигрыш в весе ничтожный! а вот надежность узел стало хуже увы мой друг
+Trubbiish That's what he means, the brake is located in the jackshaft and the drive axle is on the other end of the belt which is what engages the track. If the belt in theory were to break your brakes would be doing nothing to stop you. Those cogged belts are super fucking strong however, I'd guess they are stronger than the typical sized chain they put in them. They run top fuel dragster blowers with them, just some food for thought.
+Mcnutts3 Doesn't matter, they are not timed. Have jumped a chain many times when the chain was worn out or needed adjustment or the chain case bearings took a dump.
I would like the GPS to have a warning system for when you are close to cliffs, especially when it is foggy or bad visibility. Even just the elevation lines (contour lines) would help a ton. Could even make the lines red when they get too close to each other.
hi lui, remember I saw you at the snowmobile show I was the kid that my dad introduced me to you I love the stuff you do I saw your 2016 Polaris rmk 800 at the show
my advice is if you get stuck and you want to roll it, make sure the tunnel is not gonna pry on anything or it will bend, also watch for ice if you leave it outside the ice will dent the tunnel when going at decent speeds, its really thin, also a lot of ppl were bending the suspension with wheelies and jumping at weird angles, its thinner this year also, me personally I would get the assault and just get a belt drive kit if you plan on doing any kind of hard riding, also those forge aluminum a arm not sure how big of branches they can handle, unless you plan to ride bottomless snow only, tho the assault has the same tunnel except it has a reinforcement brace in the front, but suspension its beefier and a arm wise +I think it still has a few extra braces, only downside is you can't get belt drive or the light mono shock and I can tell you the walker evan with the bottle shock are a waste of money and weight, I rode a regular pro and my assault and there's no difference except on the dampning setting you can make it really stiff/slow with the bottle shock unless you plan on jumping 100 foot jumps on hardpack its a waste especially for the front
I'm in Northern Ontario and it got to -47 the other day. I'm just assuming that LCD display would eventually stop working up here, or is it durable? Aren't you in southern ON?
Brand New Polaris and takes 3 pulls to start? My Skidoo XM started first pull in -10 C after sitting all summer! looks good but I've never been a fan of the RMK.
+123AndrewT brand new polaris with oil injection, 40:1 mixed fuel in the tank and assembly lube in the engine/pistons and on the plugs, I'm surprised it started that easily with all that gooey oil everywhere.
You need to get a long track like 174 it's really good you barley ever get stuckThe Polaris is copping ski due ski due started the short noes stuff A ski due 2017 850 eteck 174 track is unstoppable you don't need any turbo
Andrew Oyler your. rear suspension should be set so when you get on your sled with full gear there should be 2-3in of drop at the rear bumper. ideally also there would be ever so slight sag or compression of the center shock too
heat cycles are the worst thing you can do to a new motor. it's not ring tention that seals the cylinder. it's the gas pressure that builds up behind the ring forcing it outward against the cylinder wall. The only way to force the ring against the cylinder wall is to open up that throttle with load on the motor. Heat cycles do not force the rings against the cylinder. I'm willing to bet within 2000 miles the cylinder crosshatch is gone..
+fullmelttokes I dont agree, a couple of heat cycles on the engine new wont hurt it, then yes you need to load it up to get everything seated...but everyone has their own methods.
kwmiked well I beg my pard. you see your motor like power mods new sled was already broke in at the factory. the final step at the factory they place the sled on the stand, warm up the engine, then pull the throttle wide open for about a second, and do that about 5-10 times. this properly seats the rings. I should have said heat cycles are bad for rebuilt engines, new ones all you are really doing is nothing since they come pre-broken in.
Snowdonkie u are wrong on that! if rings were seated they wouldn't have u mix oil in gas first tank, and 3hrs of extra oil programed into computer, and remaining 15hrs in computer for brake in. total of 18hrs
+PowerModz exactly why I gave my 97 XLT SP to my wife and got a REV lol. Sick of getting home after a ride and calling in sick to work for a week of recovery.
+PowerModz can you do some more honda threewheeler videos? i never had a sled b4 but id like to. but it'd be cool love your vids it teach's me alot! thanks!