Cheers mate. I've done my 2015 Mazda which didn't have the electronic brake and now I gotta do the rear brakes for my dad's car. The fact that I don't need to rotate the rear piston in makes me happy.
Just wanted to say thank you so much for making this. This video helped me (someone with no mechanical experience) change my brake pads and rotors for the first time on my Mazda3. I am SO excited that I did it myself!
I just want to say from the bottom of my heart, thank you! First time doing this and it felt like i had my dad there helping me. The way you took the time to show all the steps such as the putting the car into service mode and pulling the pistons against the caliper to retract them, all amazingly valuable tips. I was a little nervous because my 2018 doesn't do the pedal "click," but i followed along and alas it worked!
Thank you very much for the kind words. My goal was always to be able to help others in doing home repairs. Now that I have purchased this car from my son, I will be posting more repairs/upgrades this year.
Came back to this video again after a year (watched it before and did my rear rotors and brakes) and did the same job but for my front brakes and rotors. Everything was basically the same minus some differences in wrench sizes to get the bolts out. Thanks again for making such a great guide/video that's so easy to follow!
Thanks guys! I completely forgot about setting it in maintenance mode. No wonder the brake caliper wasn't going anywhere!! Gonna try again this weekend
You can still compress the rear pistons into the housing but, because of the electronic parking brake mechanism, you have to push it in and not rotate it. So, next time you don't have to force the caliper back onto the pads. Just push the piston back as normal.
If you look at the bottom of the piston portion of the caliper, there's a square clamp point cast into the body; I used it to clamp the piston back in with a pair of channel locks.
10:17 To remove the brake disc it is not necessary to hit it with a large hammer. Between the holes for the studs for fastening the wheel, there is a hole with an M8 thread (previously, a screw for fastening a car jack even fit). By simply screwing an M8 bolt into that hole, you can easily press the brake disc away from the wheel hub, protecting your hearing and hands
This is a good tip, and I would add that the two bolts holding the caliper are the same thread as the ones on the disk (M8) so they can be used to do that. Just make sure to clean and grease the bolt before putting it back as the female threads can be dirty.
Tried out your maintenance mode before ordering pads and it worked. This would be the first pads I've tried with electric handbrake. Looks like there's about 4mm pad left on 30k miles. More pad left on the fronts which I find strange. Mexico caliper too. Thanks for the heads up men.
Question for you guys. What part/brand did you use for the rear pad/rotor? I have a Mexico assembled 2017 Mazda 3 touring 2.0 and most of the parts sites give limited information. Some even group all the mazda 3s into one category stating that they use the same parts regardless if there is an electronic rear brake or not (not good). Anyway thanks for any information.
Here is the link to the rear brake pad W/Electric parking brake. www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10934300&cc=3436920&pt=1684&jsn=920www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10934300&cc=3436920&pt=1684&jsn=920 Rockauto.com breaks it down to W/Electric Parking Brake or "Not including" electric parking brake. But the link above description is "AKEBONO ACT2042 ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic "Info" Rear; 3 Base Model; Japan Production; w/Electronic Parking Brake"
Replying for any that find this going forward; in my experience so far with a 17 GT Mexico build with EPB - the parts all seem to be interchangeable between the various builds and models. "Base model" rear rotors match my factory original rears; rear pads that are listed as fitting both Japan and Mexico build EPB match factory original, and front base model rotors and pads match my fronts.
I guess my first question is how did you get air in the system? If you need to bleed it, it takes 2 to perform. One adding fluid into the brake reservoir and another operating the bleed nipple(?) on the caliper. The person adding the brake fluid also has to press on the brake very very slowly to not run the reservoir empty.
Mazda's equipped the E- Brake system the caliper plunger automatically retracts once you do the set up . This allows you to install the pads. Lots of bad information out there .
Its suppose to be 85 Ft lbs but I never use a torque wrench. I tend to make it tight enough where I can feel if I am going to strip it or not. Those who do a lot of wrenching develop a feel how tight something can go before it's too much or too tight. Where I tend to over torque are lug nut on tires.
I do not know what size, I just have a tray with a variety is mm bolts so I tried each one till one fit correctly. MM bolts have a tight thread vs American bolts that have a much wider thread.
Awesome video mate, very helpful. My current struggle is getting the right parts. Here in Aus we can search by Rego number or VIN, but all the websites lie. Seems that the pads suggested are for the non electric brakes.. very frustrating, but you vid gives me confidence when going to the parts places . . . Thanks again
