2017 Mazda 3 Sport Subwoofer install with Factory Radio! No Factory wires cut! 

PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Interface from Amazon is the exact one I used. It still works but I just saw one on Sonic electronics that might be of better quality.

@@ktruse5833 okay thank you very much!

Definitely agree.

They make a specific one for the Mazda 3 w the factory Bose system. It is also made by PAC.

No problem, hope it helped the process!

@@ktruse5833 Definitely helped! I've wired amps before but this is how I wish they all could be done! I'd had it butchered lol

I will do my best to write a step by step here. Remove glove box, unplug wire harness from gray metal box on the right side, plug the cars unplugged wire harness into the female harness connecter on the converter, plug in the male side of the wire harness coming from the converter into the gray metal box on the car. Then it's just standard car audio install from there. Hope this helps.

I've got 2 10s I'd like to switch cars

Hope this video helped, it's pretty easy on these Mazda 3s. Good luck!

I would take it out and put it back in to see if that helps. If that doesn't help I would then put a small strip of electrical tape on the clips on the plastic panel then put back in.

I don't recommend it, I recommend selling the speaker and buying real car audio gear. It's just not made for the inside of a car.

Appreciate the support! Now for what you'll need to remove the battery terminals is a 10mm socket, the brackets the hold the battery are also 10mm, I'm also pretty sure the bolt behind the rear seat for the ground wire is also 10mm. I can't really recommend a specific video but you'll need an amplifier wiring kit(from Walmart, AutoZone, etc) but depending on what you're putting in will determine what size power wire and ground wire you'll need. You will also need the converter box from the link to get the RCA connections. You will also want whatever wire connecters you need for connecting all the wires to the amp terminals properly, wether that be wire lugs, wire ferrules,etc. Solid, flat connections are key, and messy wires will cause a nightmare. I recommend researching comments on general install videos and reading forums. Also just take each thing step by step and focus on each thing individually. The install for this car is ridiculously easy, you got this! And for the aftermarket software on the stock radio, I actually bought the car like that so I have no clue. I've read some things on it and while it's cool and all, seems a little out of my expertise lol. While I like the look better than the stock Mazda look, it's really clunky sometimes and my Android auto doesn't work at all. So there is a give and take. Good luck on the install.

@@ktruse5833 appreciated it BRO! Been workign on it for the last few hours. have everything finished, damn crutchfield said i had everything I needed, but im stuck on connecting the amp and sub to the factory head unit. Thats probably why im stuck, need that converter box im assuming, or I might have to physically tap in to the speaker wires. Ill updated you

@@ktruse5833 yo ktruse. I just picked up that plug and play, I noticed it has 4 rca outputs, I only need to use two to get to my amp right?

@@OneWaySurf yeah I just use the one labeled for the rear

@@ktruse5833 thanks brother 🙏🏼. Ran out of speaker wire and waiting for my plug and play adapter!!! So fukin close

Yeah, the box is plug and play. No need to cut the stock wires.

The box came with the two 12inch JL subs in a preloaded enclosure. If you Google that then you will find the box. I believe the box only comes preloaded.

I used a circular wire lug on the power wire, take off the bolt that tightens the battery terminal all the way but don't remove the connecter from the battery then attach your power lug and put the bolt back on and tighten. You have to have the perfect size wire lug, or use a washer for a flat solid connections

@@ktruse5833 I managed to fit it in there ghetto af with a nail for now lol, everything’s hooked up and my amp has power but my subs still aren’t working, I have no idea what I did wrong and can’t find much help online

I can't really say your problem without seeing it, the one thing I can say is that your power and ground connections might be solid enough ( flat bare metal on power contacts) to turn on the amp, but not solid enough to keep both the amp and subs powered. Or your amp may be faulty or it could be your subs not wired correctly in the box.

It’s ez, just look up “wall paper for Mazda 3 or Mazda MZD

Swag Surf by Lil Wayne :) it's a banger

What year is it?

There's a link in the description. RCA converter box

I'm going to be honest, the first Mazda I've owned is my 2017, I have no knowledge of anything older. I recommend posting to the subreddit for the Mazda 3 or some other Mazda 3 forum for your exact model. Sorry I cannot be more help but I also don't wanna steer you wrong :(

Not sure, but if it has a similar box behind the glovebox then I would assume so. I don't know that the same converter would work but there may be a specific one for that year that will.

And also where did u put the bass knob?

I am no expert but in my personal experience, back firing is best for most vehicles, but the absolute best way to determine is trying different positions of the subwoofer as each vehicle is built different. Don't be afraid to experiment to find what you like best :) and I put the bass knob under the traction control button(I don't have the knob any longer)

@@ktruse5833okay thanks man i really appreciate it ill try putting the knob there too and ill just mess around with what sounds best, thank you.

All subwoofer installs consists of generally the same method. You need a power wire running to the amplifier(either from battery or alternator), a ground wire properly grounded to the chassis (NOT the negative terminal on the battery), a remote wire(the wire that tells the amplifier to turn on), and signal from the radio(via RCAs or high level input) Depending on what make and model car you have will determine what you have to do, to get these steps done.

@@ktruse5833 thanks

An amplifier wiring kit, you should choose the gague appropriate for the install. Plus the low output converter linked in the description

The blue box is a low level input converter box, it is needed because the stock radio does not have low level input.

It does have android auto but the radio has some type of aftermarket homebrew software, it was on there when I bought it so unfortunately I don't have much more info than that.

@@ktruse5833 no worries, thanks for the reply!

Completely agree :)

Yooo I’m having the same problem right now 😭 did you figure it out?

@@capnspauldin1224same bro I’m finna burn this car

@@That77mav I got it lol I have big a** hands And couldn’t get a good grip. Just unbolt the three nuts holding it in and take the box out. one is up top and the other two are under and it should slide out to give you a better grip and makes it pull out evenly and easier. Stupid easy in fact. I was pissed lol. Spent two days trying to get it out before saying f it and taking it out.

@@capnspauldin1224 thank you bro

Yo it’s super easy. I had the same problem because I thought the tab was on the outside of the white part. It’s actually more towards the middle where the wires are. Push it in and wiggle it out a little.

Nice set up, it's good to see that bass will never die lol but one thing I can truly suggest is turning your radio eq to completely level then maybe +2 on treble. You're sending distorted signal to the amp which may cause some issues and will make the overall system sound worse. Rely on the amplifier eq for the bass adjustments. Hope this helps and hope you're bumping loud enough to keep pissing off all the step moms in your neighborhood.

@@ktruse5833 okay that makes a lot of sense. I’m getting rear door speakers too so that’ll help to balance everything out

@@OneWaySurf the stock speakers are just really disappointing to me so anything will be an upgrade lol. If your looking for some better highs definitely look into tweeter replacement. Even some boss speakers would be an upgrade at this point.

@@ktruse5833 Yea lmao such a sad stock speaker setup, I'm thinking about getting some rear door speakers with good tweeters and then replacing the front door speakers later, or should I do front first then rear? I think your setup has been established longer than mine.

@@OneWaySurf I would upgrade the front first because that's what's going to make more of a difference to you in the front seat, and do the rear later.