A little tip, before you install your new oil filter pour a little new oil in there to soak the filter element. It won't run down your arm trust me! Helps the engine generate oil pressure a bit quicker when you start up.
I wouldnt recommend pre-filling an oil filter. Reason being is new oil isnt filtered or necessarily clean and could include contaminants larger than the allowable microns. Even particulate 10 microns over what a filter does can damage bearings and friction surfaces. There should be enough residual oil in an engine to protect it until the filtered oil reaches its destinations. Might not be a big deal but im not a risk taker... or good at responding to comments when i just discovered that there is a “held for review” section on youtube studio. Sorry it took a year.
Thank you very much. Perfect instruction! You work very carefulky, respect! I am from Austria and bought the same modell last year in may. Last year i drove 8000 kilometers and i love the AT. Next year i will do the oil change like you, thank you very much!
4 года прошло, а в России до сих пор никто не записал подобного. Спасибо за подробную инструкцию. Думал, будет разное масло для двигателя и DCT, но только дополнительный фильтр. Значит коробка передач работает на моторном масле. Как все просто и надежно. Игженеры Honda великие!!
Thanks! The goal is to evolve until i find my "style" and provide the best information i can in the shortest videos possible but still entertain the viewers. Lol there is a lot of work to do so there will be much more to come!
Good job bud, but next time put some of the new oil in the filter before you put it on the bike, this way when you start the bike the engine doesn't struggle waiting for the oil to get through the filter 😉👍
Glad you enjoyed the video and thats a good observation. The reason i didnt prime this oil filter is because it is horizontal and less than a 1/4qt capacity. My thoughts on this are: If it was populated with a bit of oil (50%), that oil would still sit stationary until the pumped oil started traveling through, it will save on fill time but its pretty small time savings imo. I do recommend priming larger oil filters because the fill rate takes more time before sending oil pressure downstream. (Like a 1qt. filter on a V8) i just didn't see it as necessary in this application and it wasn't mentioned in the 2019 service manual. So heres what i did, I just wrote a letter to the Honda Performance Division engineers with the question on whether it makes a difference and will post the response publicly when i recieve it, we should know the technical information behind this practice.
I typically give it a good detail before performing maintenance. It reduces debris getting into the bike internals. I have a few horse hair brushes in the wash bucket to get in the tight places. It currently has 11,000 miles on it and its still pretty new looking. Maybe ill do a cleaning video if anyone is interested in sitting through that haha.
Thank you for the video... I have a similar AT 2019 model too with dct... but in Spain, jajajaj. Let me give you and advice: Hifoflitro are good filters but the original filter cost the same and its better, sure!!! Filters, oils and original parts are the better way to keep our bike like new for a lot of years!!!!
Here, oem filters are about double the price, cant go wrong with oem parts though. I tried hiflow for oil and air, ill be trying others in the future like twin air and k&n air filters :) Thanks for the input and thanks for watching!
Im glad you enjoy the video! I look forward to making more for you guys. The two wrenches used are a bikemaster 1/4" drive and a Quinn 3/8" drive. Links below. 1/4" ft-lb torque wrench: www.partsgiant.com/p350832-bikemaster-digital-torque-wrench?m=348057&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItemKttuX6AIVEh6tBh1-SAD1EAQYAyABEgIotvD_BwE 3/8" ft-lb wrench: www.harborfreight.com/38-in-Drive-Digital-Torque-Wrench-64915.html
Great video, super clear. Are those the AltRider crash bars? How do you like them? Considering purchasing the same bike in manual and putting those on, as well.
Thank you, i look forward to making more videos! Yes, the bars are the alt rider uppers and lowers with the connecting bars. I havent tested them thankfully but so far i like them, very light and sturdy. The width is similar to the width of your legs while seated on the bike so no added girth.
Hey Atombawm, did you take your Bike ever on the Centerstand, in my manuell there is no Stand, wether a side or a centerstand in use. The bike had to stand on one level Ground in upside position, than you check the Oilstand. Isn't it right ?
When i am checking the oil level for accuracy i do not have the bike supported on a side stand or center stand. The steps i typically follow are: 1) unscrew and clean dipstick. 2) support the bike upright on level ground by holding the handlebar. (No side stand or center stand) 3) put dipstick in briefly (do not screw in) 4) pull out dipstick and check the level. Its worked pretty good for me so far without issue.
Altrider skidplate and full crash protection set. Only thing i dont have mounted is the rear skidplate part because of the center stand being in the way.
Yes engine and transmission use the same oil. Don't use any old synthetic! They can be too slippery and cause problems with your DCT! It needs to be classified "MA" and not say "energy conserving" or "resource conserving" on the back.
I dont know what the technical differences would be between the two on the maintenance side. Consult your owners manual for torque measurements, filter types, fluid capacities/ requirements and procedure. I know they changed the displacement but ive never done maintenance on one.
Only thing i can recommend is using the oil suggested in your user manual. The other oil ive tried is motul semi synthetic (in the video) and motorex full synthetic, the dct trans and the engine share the oil. Ive noticed the valvetrain is quieter using the motul in the video, none seemed harmful or changed the operating characteristics. I havent sent used samples to the lab or anything but perhaps i will in the future.
3000 miles or after a long rough weekend, the manual suggests it can go longer but im a spirited rider and change it often. Currently at 10,000 miles now and it still rides like new. I will be posting more maintenance videos soon.
No, it is an add-on. I purchased mine from the dealer then installed it myself. Most dealers will install it for you at time of purchase, can possibly make it a part of the deal.
Sooo much easier...Setting chain tension, cleaning/ lubrication, rear wheel removal..even putting gas in the tank and washing the bike. I definitely recommend a center stand.
At minute 0:35 - So riding in the rain is a _no - no??_ Note: I have been told after washing to ride or *start the bikes engine* especially to dry it out and evaporate any water that went to sensitive areas. What the...?!
The bike is designed to ride in the rain, and perform water crossings as deep as the bottom edge of the seat. Natural exposure to water. Washing a bike (depending on who is doing it) can put water where it normally wouldn't go. Like high pressure water jet straight down the intake snorkel/ directly on electrical plugs. I recommended to let it dry out because you never know how a person washes their bike.
@@atombawm No problem, I am the only one washing my motorcycle. I never, ever use high pressure sprayers on my motorcycles as... I too was told high pressure sprayers get water in places it doesn't belong on motorcycles. But if this does happen (water in the wrong place or places) the damage is done - prepare for trouble. Yes, motorcycle dealers use high pressure sprayers to save time. Every time I see that I cringe 😬.
10W30 is the factory recommended. I use 10w40 because the bike experiences a lot of heat occasionally and the 10w30 doesnt provide the viscosity to keep things lubricated enough causing the dct to shift inconsistently and the valve train gets real noisy. 10w40 offers enough in my situation and i can flog the throttle without wincing on behalf of my engine when its hot. If you’re in a mild or cold area 10w30 works like a charm.
Atombawm thank you , it is just bizarre that the manuel only recommande 10w30 and dose not state to use 10w40 , I tried Ipon Katsna 10w30 but here in Quebec the temperature rarely get past 32deg Celsius.
@@atombawm How has the shifting been since you moved to 10W40? I just changed over to 10W40 last night and am curious about what to expect once it gets warmed up.
@@davidenete since using the 10w40, in sport 2 mode the shifting is direct, smooth and happens when anticipated. After 9000 miles using this oil, I haven’t noticed anything out of the ordinary.
@@atombawm Thanks for the reply. I will soon change the air filter and oil filters with the Hiflofiltro parts. Mine is also the DCT model. Just subscribed to your channel. I would appreciate if you joined mine.
Last change i used honda hp line of oils i think. I tried several oils now and like tire pressures it can be debated to no end but my butt dyno couldnt tell the difference between motul, LM, HP and motorex.
Too bad you forget to tell your viewers that the bike needs to be on the side stand while draining the oil, this according the "user manual". This method assures maximum draining of the engine oil. 2nd The bike is water"proof", you can and must be able to start the bike even when it's soaking wet.
I agree. As far as not starting it until it dries out a bit after washing, my rationale is that some users might spray water up into places that normally shouldnt get water exposure or use a pressure washer (which i also dont recommend on any bike unless you know where to not spray) whereas riding in the rain or river crossing wouldn't normally get water to reach. it was a trend that followed me out of the motocross field and its worked for me so far, no electrical issues, no imposter hydration in crankcase, fuel or air system. But everyone has a style and method to their madness that works for them and i appreciate your input! This particular video was one of my first and i hope it helps and stays relevant.
