Eric, I so enjoyed this video, your down to earth, straight talk, and coupled with your genuine desire to make our viewing valuable. I typically get so sick of videos with cooky mechanics, bad language is their only language, and not taking a serious approach to their work - this isn't entertainment, it is knowledge transfer with a backdrop of enjoyment. Again, you have the right framework, personality, and best of all we all walk away feeling you gave us something worthwhile. THANKS!!!
Thank you very much for the kind words! Jarred (the producer) and I work hard to put out quality videos without fluff or wasted breathe so many others have. Data is important to people and that is what we provide! Stay tuned for episode two! Coming soon...
I have a 2022 Camaro ZL1 1LE as well. I have been looking for an informative video that will explain why I need to go with my gut. Which is 1 7/8ths Long tube headers with high flow cats, X pipe and Corsa Extreme mufflers. It's gonna be expensive...especially with a tune, but the with the HP gains and the sheer sound this car will be a force on the streets and will be heard from far far away! Thanks for being awesome and informative!
Man this made my day- glad you enjoyed it. The upcoming episodes will be even better- a lot of mods coming…more in depth engine mods- even a motor swap!!
@@floridahighperformance glad to see you guys live like an hour 30 minutes from PSL, cause I plan to buy a ZL1, definitely I will call you guys when the times come to see what my build up can be, I just follow you guys on IG too
So few people understand what horsepower is. Horse power is how much work and engine can do. Torque is the rotational force it produces. You are correct in that torque is what's going to push the car down the road. But it's where the torque is that matters. It's not the crank torque, it's the wheel torque. At any given speed you want the highest torque at the wheel. This is achieved through gearing. An engine that produces half the torque but at twice the RPM produces equal torque at the wheel at the same speed through gearing. Horsepower is simply a mathematical calculation based on torque versus RPM. A higher horsepower motor will produce higher wheel torque through lower gears than a lower horsepower but higher torque motor. For instance, if you have an 1800 horsepower jet turbine engine that produces only 286 ft pounds of torque at 33,000 rpm, if you gear down the rotational speed to 5,000 RPM the torque will be 1,890-foot pounds.
@@SwingingVoter can’t tell if you are being sarcastic or not, I will though, as one can covert between them easily. In your analogy, voltage would be rpm.
I loved this! My recommendation is to always go with 1-7/8" headers. 2" headers often run into clearance issues. Even with the 1-7/8" headers you need to move the passenger side wire harness away (the one under the coolant reservoir) about 2-3 inches. If you don't your dash will go crazy when the wires start to melt and the car will start throwing random codes. 1-7/8" headers make great power and you don't sacrifice too much of your mid-range (for us track rats who need pop off the corners). I'll be adding American Racing headers to my car in the future.
So i finally got this done to my car. Stainless works all around. Rotofab and a tune. I got a great video of the tune. Im at 642hp and 694tq. On 9 lbs boost. I love it
Great video I just hit the subscribe button. I’m a little lost I live in California and own the first 2650 6 generation manual transmission camaro. The Edelbrock 2300 was installed way back in late 2016. 4 years ago it was swapped out for the Edelbrock 2650 and I’m loving it ever since. 609/587 and all smog legal. Motor is all stock and 40k miles later all is flawless. that tiny 1.74 Liter is putting in some work I can’t even imagine the charge temps when it on the pavement.
Very cool. Temps were actually Not bad at all as we did not change the boost output yet. Once we start spinning it harder, then we will probably see temps start to rise under heavy load. We plan on upgrading the HX cooling system and other items along the way as well- and eventually will go 2650. Next episode is coming soon where we test stock vs ported LT4 blower with upper pulley.
Just found your channel. Awesome video! I just did my headers/exhaust on my 18 zl1 and as much as I heard it was a huge pain in the ass, I found the install very easy. I didn't use ARH, I used Kooks, but as you stated, the ease of install was worth paying extra.
Heyyy you sure were! I think that deserves a t shirt. Shoot me your contact info and I’ll get a swag pack out to you. We can also chat on the job and get you a quote! Sales@flhighperformance.com
Just joined , great job on the install, I have a 23 zl1 vivid orange called Angry orange! How long would it take for the average wrench twister to swap out to headers?
Thank you Joe. More videos coming...testing ported vs stock blower, e85, and more. Some guy said I sounded like a "ricer"...LOL! Is that even a thing any more? Appreciate the kind words!
We are a small outfit- but produce high quality work and yes, we move a lot of cars. 15+ hour days- 7 days a week- and a relentless pursuit of perfection and customer satisfaction have led to this….it’s almost an obsession of mine…thanks for watching we appreciate it very much. Shoot me your address in an email I’ll send a shirt. Sales@flhighperformance.COM -Erik
Those are REALLY good baseline numbers, they're usually in the 525 range. I have a 1LE as well, it has a AWE exhaust and that's it, kinda starting to get the itch to do headers/intake/cam.
You think so? I baseline numerous LT4 cars, auto and manual and they're all around 550-570 rwhp/tq. Never had one as low as you say. Either way, gains are gains...whether you baseline at 300, 500, or 5000 RWHP...if you pick up power and tq over that baseline you are good to go! Let me know if I can help in any way! - Erik
The roto fab big gulp didn't gain for me.. Swaped it out on a 800hp car thinking it would gain over the 4'', gained 2 hp is all. Paid for a returned and got shit. Took it off and sent it back. Rotofab was shocked it didn't gain. Lol I'm sure they were. I was disappointed because not only pay for a re tune, but a re stock fee as well. All for nothing. Great video.
Good info. That’s really the purpose of this series- to test items like that. I don’t doubt that some items will shine and other won’t- I guess it all depends on the set up. I figure why not test these popular products and just put it out there you know? That way people can make informed decisions when purchasing these products….thanks for watching and thanks for your input.
Careful with these. I bought a 2022 ZL1 on Nov 5. It's currently sitting in a GM shop for the 4th week now getting a complete motor replacement, car has 4,956 miles on it.
Man sorry to hear. It is true- so folks every now and the get a dud engine. Im very very clear when people drop their cars off that these mass produced engines can fail- albeit rare. Wishing you the best of luck!
@@floridahighperformance Yeah, the LT-4 is hand crafted though, it isn't mass produced. Either way, GM is just going down hill, I bought a brand new equinox back in 2014 and the transmission in it died after 50k miles and needed to be replaced. I'll never buy a GM vehicle again in my life now.
@@Trignama1 well, mass produced in the sense that they’re not balanced and blueprinted like a custom engine would be from day Late Model Engines- with the most premium parts available. The LT main and rod bearings are junk- I don’t care who assembles it and how meticulous they are. Best of luck man! Still a great car….
Now do the pulls with the hood closed to see if that Rotofab is pulling in hot air and robbing you of hp. The stock enclosed box with a low restriction filter will do better.
Awesome. I have an 18 Zl1 1lE. With a stainless works cat back exhaust. I think I’m gonna go down this same route, but I can’t change out my cat back. I think I just need to lead pipes from the headers.
Cool- thanks for watching. Your best bet would either to be buy headers by themselves and have some connection pipes fabricated, OR buy the ARH intermediate system they offer and adapt that to your catback. Message me if you need assistance sales@flhighperformance.com
@@floridahighperformance awesome sir thank you so much for the advice. I will definitely be picking up some ARH Headers and the connection pipes and will message you when need be. Thanks and good luck with the car. 💪🏻
Great video, probably the longest I've watched on RU-vid lol. Is it possible to make around 850whp with a 2650 and supporting mods on just 93? I dont wanna go meth or E85 and trying to avoid the whole ice tank for cooling if possible.
Thank you- more vids coming on this build. Did you see episode 2? 850 rwhp on 93 alone is not advised- not enough octane. I made 770 yesterday on a zl1 with 93 only…no meth…no E…no cooling mods. Video drops soon…we test a kong X port to the factory blower
Thanks for checking us out. Headers may affect back pressure, which can affect boost, but it's minimal. Nothing a pulley can't fix! Increase as you saw in this video wasn't crazy, but gains are gains.
ARH catted systems work well, but do have their limitations. Above 800 RWHP, the cats can fail. They're not as high quality as the "green cats" from Kooks, from what I understand. They're plenty safe though for any engine, and I have NEVER in my years had a set of ARH cats fail, even above 800. I hope this helps...
I have not yet messed with the 3.0. Every time I call Whipple, they cannot provide an ETA on those things. Meanwhile Magnuson is KILLING it with their 2650 - so that is what we go with. Thing works, plain and simple. That being said, larger blower and FBO on 93 octane, say 15 lbs of boost should add 200 RWHP or so to your set up.
Sweet clip bro, mine baselined before boltons at 530whp. Putting down 640whp conservative with 2.9whipple, tune, rotofab, no cats and headers on 93 octane.
@Florida High Performance Thanks for the reassurance of loving it. My first Chevy. Just couldn't pass up a 6.2 L Supercharged engine before they go away. Good to know about software, thanks.
Thanks for the subscription! Good question glad you asked. We will be testing this in a future episode. Our custom LT4 camshaft grind complements the supercharger and actually should do a good job of keeping boost pressure in the cylinder and retaining a lot of the low end torque she makes now. We also will change the pulleys configuration to adjust for the increase in airflow from the camshaft. So, any losses from the camshaft should be negated or limited by the increase in boost. I do expect a huge jump in horsepower- that’s for sure. Right now the HP and TQ are pretty lopsided because of poor efficiency.
@@oldschool6268 there’s actually quite a bit of room to grow- especially if you port it. Where I see it suffer is on larger displacement engines. It just doesn’t move the air.
Thanks for the kind words. So my Corsa mufflers have the NPP valve provisions- I simply swapped the valve motors from stock exhaust to the new mufflers- and they function the same. Closed when I want them to be and open when I want them to be. Some exhaust systems do not have the valve provisions, so you lose the adjustability. You basically plug the motors in and secure them up under the bumper
Wow! I am seriously considering the ZL1 after selling my S4. QQ, if you lean out the fuel like you said, does that improve fuel economy? That isn't my main concern just curious.
No, when we lean it out, we it's just to perfect the AFR at wide open throttle...so mileage really doesn't change much...cause you're still flooring it around town LOL...
Dyno is a tool we use to measure our progress through the tuning progress. I could give a shit about numbers. Track times, MPH and seat of the pants mean more to me than anything. I had a Mustang dyno for 10 years...read lower than my DJ...who cares, cars were still fast a shit and performed as expected. If you wanna stand at a car show and brag to your buddies about your dyno sheet, then you are in it for the wrong reasons.
That's incredible. 90ft lbs is cam or high octane gas levels torque. It also means this car was bottle necked from the factory, but why? If emissions are better leaned out then I don't get it. On a road course I would love to know engine temps after these mods? Because GM might have a long running optimal temperature goal? Remember, this motor is stock with no extra boost.
More boost without improving air flow through the engine will result in greater work on the part of the supercharger which yields massive amounts of torque. Efficiency suffers but the seat of the pants goes through the roof- so on a street car it meets most customers wants and needs out of their weekend street car. Temps are no greater than they were stock…at least on my build they’re not. I attribute this to properly bleeding the HX system.
@@Highlander1432 they reduce the back pressure on the exhaust stroke that the engine (and supercharger) have to work against. I’ve tested with and without headers- and at most have maybe seen .5-1 PSI lost- or less. It’s negligible. What we gain is scavenging - which means better flow when you are spinning the supercharger faster than it does with stock pulley configuration
@@Highlander1432 we are still incredibly inefficient with stock heads and cam- I meant to add that in my previous reply . I’ll prove this when we add a cam and heads in the next episode
What is the issue with different brands mid pipes and axle back not working together? Hard to see what was the issue in the video. I’m hoping to make stainless works muffler fit my borla mid pipe. Any advice or do you think that will work? Thanks
Usually diameter...and bends. OEM is smaller than most AM systems...so the whole slip together thing works well. When you try to add TWO AM systems like Corsa and ARH mid pipe, both of which are 3", they have to be welded together or expanded to slip over...I just butt welded it and its been fine since...works like a charm.
Hell yeah better believe it. Funny I have an LME 426 Gen 3 here with a 3.0 whipple sitting atop waiting to be stabbed into my dads 67 GTX. Good luck on the charger build- sounds wicked.
@Florida High Performance your doing a build.inwanted to do forever. GTX is one of my favorite Mopars. 68 through 71. I just want a roller body of one honestly cause I want to turn it into a big tire car and throw a procharged hemi under the hood. I figure I'll have to hit up Forza tuning and Performance for their 2500hp waterjacketed Hemi for that if I'm ever able to find a car like that. That gonna be a sick GTX though for real.
I have a 17 and thinking about going this route for first set of mods along with some e; how important do you think a good coating like jet hot is to manage heat with these cars that already struggle with heat dissipation
It’s a great place to start. Coating the headers will help to reduce radiant heat, for sure. It won’t make much of a difference with respect to MATs or IATs…to be honest. That’s more of a heat exchanger/cooling system deal. None the less- I highly recommend to clients that, at a minimum, they ceramic coat their headers. I prefer silver ceramic…like what JetHot offers. Not a fan of BLACK coatings or Cerkoat…never had good luck with either of those.
Nice video, and self explained. Congrats. I have a 2021 1SS 1LE, can I make same changes on it and at the end have approximately the same gains on HP & PFT? Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it Angel. That’s my goal- to provide accurate and unbiased info so that folks can make more informed decisions. Yes you can expect the same results- depending on tuning of course and weather conditions/altitude/etc. any questions feel free to reach out!
You will NOT have the same gains, a boosted engine will always gain way more power from headers than NA. More air pumped thru a boosted car so more going thru with opens headers. Either this shop misunderstand you or they are going after your money.
@@carguy... you are correct- I actually completely missed that it was NOT a ZL1…my bad on that. Boosted applications will make more than NA no doubt, again sorry I missed the fact that he had an NA car. Thanks for catching that!!
Yes he is. No- he’s very much alive. We’ve not had any issues working with Matt. This is a tough business to be in- you tune 1000 cars successfully no one gives a shit- one breaks and you are notorious for over tuning and blowing shit up. Too bad. Thanks for checking the video out.
Do you have a video or sound byte after the headers and tune? I am planning to add headers to my 22 ZL1 and am trying to decide if that is enough or if I also need a cam (for sound)
Let me know I’ll get ya a good price… Stock plugs would be just fine for your SS. Once you go boost you can change the plugs. I use stock plugs on any naturally aspirated stuff…
@@floridahighperformance looking forward to it! I’d be interested in a relatively conservative and reliable 93 pump tune with a Magnasun 2650 and supporting mods
@@ANMIV517 it’s simple, really. Install the 2650, determine appropriate pulley combo and tune on 93. With or without supporting mods, it will work well.
I have no plans to run this car in the 1/4. It’s not built for that. I may log from draggy times after the heads/cam are swapped, and eventually when the new 427 engine and 2650 are installed
Hello Jonas! 550? Are you referring to the baseline horsepower? The LT4 is rated at 650 crank (flywheel) Hp. They baseline at the wheels 550-570….on avg in the manual
Baseline was on a modded car- mild mods I know- but skewed none the less. I agree it’s nothing to write home About- but I’d say my baseline was 10-15 more than avg….either way it’s all for testing purposes
They’re not. They’re tighter than snot. They’re HD straps provided with the dyno from dynojet and have some flex to them…I actually prefer the vehicle to move slightly forward on the roller during a pull for better traction
I'm adding the ngk 6510 I'm pushing 13.5 lbs. What gap do you recommend? Looking forward to your videos. A friend who also has a zl1 told me about your channel. Gave you a like and a sub.
@@floridahighperformanceI'm familiar with the Ford stuff that is a really tight gap for 13 psi. On the older gt500s with bolt ons in the 550 rwhp are around 13 psi they're usually .030-.032 range and my 2650 setup now is at .026 at 19 psi and that seems to be the norm. Why do these cars like so much closer gap? That's odd but cool to see the differences between different models and platforms.
@@kanervatie To get the most flow, which will compliment an aftermarket camshaft, longtube headers and ported cylinder heads are always recommended. Technically, no, you can install a camshaft with stock exhaust manifolds and cylinder heads...you'll just be limiting max output...that's all.
I see you're using STD 5 smoothing. SAE 5 is more acurate to real power numbers. Since you profess to be no BS what your using is inflated numbers. Don't take my word for it. There are plenty of reliable sources to support my claim.
Just how we have it set up I can show uncorrected- corrected- sae- std- whatever. So long as the baseline and final are the same settings my gains are relative.
Thank you for your input. It's hard - I have so much knowledge to share and really wanna help people. I could slap these videos together...or better yet, keep it to myself, hoard the knowledge and not GAS about anyone else. Not my style. I am here to leave a mark on this business...and I will do that by putting out content for the masses for decades to come. I do appreciate your comment though and will try to streamline things where it can be done! Erik
Hey David- thanks for checking out the video. You know, can’t say I disagree with you. Entry level mods on these cars aren’t cheap if you go with quality parts. The cost of tuning is also up there. I guess the torque is really what adds the seat of the pants feel to this car with bolt ons…not the HP. I never really cared about HP on a street car- torque was always what I was after as it’s technically what moves the vehicle from point a to b. Fortunately, as you will see in episode 2, the gains vs cost actually are way in our favor- so it makes up for the initial gain vs cost ratio on episode 1. Thanks for your input!
There is alot more to this than peak power. You didn't notice the torque gain? What about the gains across the entire curve? Not to mention how much better it will sound. Don't underestimate the different headers make. They're needed to get the most out of any combo stock or otherwise.
Not to mention it makes that power at a lower boost level. It's a far more efficient setup. Just looking at peak to peak hp gain only tells a fraction of the story.
You lost me when you said those shit graphite gaskets are high quality, lol. Those are the absolute worst, they blow out and leak either immediately or very soon after. Then your contradict yourself and say that you need to spend the money and buy the expensive headers because of the fitment and then 2 seconds later you explain that you had to modify a bunch of shit on the passenger side, unbolting motor mounts and removing crap to get them to fit,.
Never had an issue with ARH gaskets specifically. I agree, in general the graphite stuff is junk- I typically use MLS like the stock gaskets. The OEM Gen V LT exhaust manifold gaskets aren’t like the LS gaskets- they’re thin and can cause issues sealing. I’ve not had a single ARH header gasket blow out- ever- in 20 years. Ever. Have I had others give me issues? Yes absolutely. As stated previously, when I can I use GM style MLS- no doubt. But- this application works best with what’s included in the kit. With regard to “contradiction” in the video…you missed the point. I never said you don’t have to move things around to install these (or other) headers. 2” primary longtubes are tight on the passenger side of these 6th gens. What I’m referring to is once they’re installed having issues with clearance…like the steering shaft on the DS. A lot of headers hit that shaft once they’re bolted in. These don’t, nor do they contact anything on the PS (once they’re installed). Having to move parts around to install another part has no bearing on their quality. Thank you for checking out the video and your comment.
If you watch the video you would see he replaced the headers and car already had corsa x pipe and cat back exhaust. Hard to see when your head in your *&% though. Derrrr
I have a 22 ZL1 and I bought a rotofab for it. Throttle response seems worse. I went back to stock intake with k&n drop in. Am I imagining things. Car isn't tuned and don't plan on tuning it for warranty purposes. Thoughts why it feels owner with the rotofab?
The honest answer is you’d have to do back to back dyno testing to see actual differences in fueling and airflow with regard to the MAF hertz. You’d also see if you lose or gain power. I posted a video a while back of a blue ZL1 1LE that had this same issue. We tuned it and it was 100% better- dyno results proved that. The Rotofab altered the air flow so significantly that the wot fueling was way off- tuning fixed all that. If the way air enters or exits the engine, it has to be calibrated- period. You can check that video out on my IG page under Florida High Performance. It’s a new blue ZL1 1LE. That might shed some light on your issue.
@@floridahighperformance Appreciate the quick reply. I didn't want to void the warranty with a tune right away. Maybe better off selling it or waiting to after warranty and getting a tune
@@illdaddyrod I understand that. A lot of money these cars are- warranty is important. I always tell people to check with their local service advisors on whether or not a mod or tuning will void warranty. There are ways around it- but if it makes you feel more comfortable leaving it well enough alone that’s perfectly understandable. Happy to help if you ever have any other questions
