Watching this was my AHA moment. I’ve been setting up semi-circle platforms for my notching. Take a piece from the center, flip it over, take a piece from the center. Way too many blown ears! Now I know to take a little off each corner then one from the center. Square it up, flip it over, and repeat. Made a huge difference in my notches and takes very little pressure. Just goes to show that practice doesn’t make perfect. Perfect practice makes perfect. I made my notchers from 3/16” and 1/4” square rod. Heated the ends up with my propane torch, and hammered the tips flat. The added bonus is that heating steel makes it weaker so they’re probably close to horseshoe nails. Wow. That’s a long comment just to say thanks. Thanks.!
You introduced the use of dark leather pads for light stone and light leather pads for dark stone to give contrast years ago . Now with failing vision it’s a must . Thank you 😊
I would NEVER compare my skill and knowledge to yours. I was experimenting with notching flakers and came up with one I really like. I used a 1/4” square steel bar. I know that when you heated steel, it gets weaker (softer); hence the need to quench. I used my propane torch to heat the end of the bar to a red glow and hammered it flat. You end up with an end that’s hard enough that you rarely dress it up but soft enough to grab. I file across the front edge to leave file marks on an opposite plane of the stone. I file the sides of laterally to leave long file marks. Makes it a damn good shearing tool. I appreciate your videos and have learned a great deal from them and thought I’d pass this along.
I have just started napping glass and want to thank you for the time you take to produce and share your amazing skill in these wonderful videos. Much appreciated!
People should appreciate your knowledge and the ability you have to create the fine work you do. Your patients are amazing. I have started using some of your techniques and find that they work very well if applied with your explanation. Thankyou ,I love your video's they are very educational and you make beautiful points.
@@KnapperJackCrafty I would like to ask if you would please share any info about barbed or other notched points if you have time. I wasn't aware there were regulations thankyou.
@@jeffdowns8431 check with your state fish & game department. Give them a call if you cant find the regulations on arrow hunting points on their website. Most states require two sharp edges, no barbs, no stone, and a minimum of 7/8" wide.
@@KnapperJackCrafty Thankyou for your reply my friend,and the info.Thats great information. Keep up the beautiful work. It will soon be a lost art if we don't keep it alive. Love watching you work sir ,so much talent! I can't help but Bragg on your work. Thanks again.
Wow, this video is so detailed that I feel like I could perform brain surgery now... okay, maybe not that extreme, but you get the point. Thank you for breaking it down step-by-step like a dance instructor teaching me the cha-cha slide.😆
Yes, squaring the edge makes it easier for the next flake removal. It also helps to prevent unwanted "stray" flakes that shoot out to the left or right and blow off an ear or barb. The depth is personal preference or, in the case of reproductions, the dimensions of the notches on the actual artifact. Notches weaken a point but also make it easier to haft. There's a trade off.
@@KnapperJackCrafty hey man just to let you know I'm living back in Wisconsin again this time on the peninsula a lot of rock face Cliffs and stuff around here anyways black locust grows here everywhere and I'm going to cut a log soon if you're interested in any black locust I'll send you some for free
@@jesserush412 Hey Jesse! Great to hear you're doing well. And I'll keep the black locust in mind for the future. It's a really good wood. Thanks buddy.
Couple of questions. First, does squaring the edges create easier flake removal for the next series of flakes when the point is turned over? I know that when I create a notch, the notch tends to run out and round off then its almost impossible to continue notching. Second, what determines the depth of a notch? There are both shallow and deep notches. Is it the kind of point, the look, or how your inspired at the moment? Thanks once again for the instruction! :)
EDBO23 (Eddie Main) and Paleoman Jim (Jim Winn) mainly. But I'm an experimenter, so I'm also self taught. The "behind the knee" indirect style is my invention.
@@KnapperJackCrafty Thanks for your work on the indirect! I had a hard time with keeping the tool behind my knee until I changed to a folding chair with a crossbar in front. Once I put my right heel on the bar it made the indirect sit in the crease just right. You need to have it tight enough to put pressure between tip and workpiece I finally figured out. EDBO23 seems like a wonderful guy.
Yep, I have a beginner series in one of my playlists. I'm going to update that playlist but if you watch the vids before I make the updates you should be fine. I've changed a few things about the way I knap and learned quite a bit since making those videos.
Ice pick from Walmart. I cut it down and ground the end into a chisel-type shape. But they don't sell them any more. You can use a flat head screw driver or modify an "o-ring pick" from Lowe's.
